More wraps = better vape?

[damthisisfun]

My limited knowledge of Kanthal is:

Smaller the gauge, the lower the resistance and the thicker the wire.

I have been using 33 gauge and about 4 wraps gives me about 2 ohms. I have ordered some 28, 30 and 32 gauge wires.

My question is - since a lower gauge wire will need more wraps to give the equivalent ohms compared to a higher gauge (assuming there is enough space in the atty to make the extra wraps) will this result in a better vape?

Low Gauge = low resistance = more wraps = better vape?

I am mostly using Kanger Protank..........thanks.

 

[dr g]

It's about total surface area.

 

[damthisisfun]

It's about total surface area.

Dr G - thanks for replying - looks like other folks either didnt know or didnt care.....so am i correct in thinking more wraps = better vape?

 

[Hitmetwice]

It may work that way for others but it didn't play out that way for me.
More wraps choke wicking and take longer to heat up.
Just my limited exp.

 

[2coils]

I am surprised some of the of veterans haven't chimed in here. I have been using disposable dripping attys from avid vapor and empire mods. I can tell you that their coils consist of maybe 8 to 10 wraps and we are talking for all resistances. From my experience (which is limited) it seems like the more wraps the better the vape (at least with disposable attys). I am not sure if its the same in RDA's, being they wick a little different? I would assume it would be the same. I have some RDA's on the way, I have to start to experiment myself. I will keep you posted. Maybe you can do the same?

 

[dr g]

Dr G - thanks for replying - looks like other folks either didnt know or didnt care.....so am i correct in thinking more wraps = better vape?

Well, as with anything vaping, it's not quite so simple, and the answer is maybe. Ha! It also depends what you consider "better" ...
Generally speaking more surface area has the potential to produce a larger volume and density of vapor in a draw. However you do need to build accordingly, stretching out a very long wire won't work since by the time the ends heat up, the middle will be burnt. Stacking coils ("micro" coils) mitigates this effect by increasing responsiveness, and of course you need a power source that can produce the wattage you need from the coil's resistance.

And then of course your atomizer needs to be built accordingly, airholes, wicks, etc.

 

[LucentShadow]

I'll second the 'maybe'.

With the devices that I use, and the type of coils that I build, yes, but only to a certain extent.

I've settled on 32ga nichrome80 (similar resistance to 31ga kanthal A-1) for protank heads. I started with 34ga, which works fine with a normal, spread coil. I now use a bifurcated micro coil, and 32ga seems to be the best balance of surface area and responsiveness for me.

I sometimes use the 30ga that I have in an A7 RBA, with a sort of elliptical-shaped coil, with close wraps.

I'd advise just experimenting with them to see what you like best.

 

[gdeal]

I'll third the "maybe."

Better is subjective. But more wire surface area appropriately powered with adequate juice and air flow will produce more vapor. But everything else has to be equal.

However:
if power density of coils are the same, different wick materials will produce different quality of vapor.
different types of coil/wick builds based upon the same wick material with the same wire and power, produce different vapor.
you also need to also account for air flow dynamics.
if you use different types of juice, the same build may not vape the same on the same build/atty.
and even with the same juice, wire, wick material, coil/wick build, atty, etc. one build may still be different than the other.
...and probably a couple others as well

I second Lucid Ace's advise. Experimentation is the only way to find what is better (for you).

 

[damthisisfun]

Thanks all - will experiment - got my 28, 30 and 32 GA Kanthal today - waiting on wick to come in...........

 

[Krizzell]

This is why I bought flat wire covers more area with less wraps I like it.Give it a try.

 

[SRPJ]

Okay heres how it works. and by better vape you probably mean more clouds.

Lower resistance= a faster firing
More Wraps= more surface area heated
more surface= more clouds

eg; My atty is currently 4x3 (4 coils 3 wraps ea) using flat wire, the resistance is low(.22 ohms (not recommended btw)) for a faster firing, essentially because i only have 3 wraps my surface area isnt that much BUT because im using flat wire it is greatly increased giving me more vape for less.

Keep in mind that the lower your ohms are the hotter the intake of vapor is which means youll get a harsher hit so i would suggest working your way down to sub ohms (if using a mechanical mod) to get use to it unless you wanna man up to the hot vapor.

 

[ricks]

So what really give more flavor??? I have a mechanical coming to try sub ohms. In my RBA's I'm currently using 30g wrapped tight at 2.2ohms with 100% PG.

 

[SRPJ]

The more air flow the less youll flavor youll taste.

Im assuming youre a first timer for sub ohms so id suggest doing something abit on the sub ohm high side like .7- .8

 

[ricks]

I will try this. What size wire will give the best flavor? I have 28, 30 and 32g to play with and all kinds of wicks in my stock.

The more air flow the less youll flavor youll taste.

Im assuming youre a first timer for sub ohms so id suggest doing something abit on the sub ohm high side like .7- .8

 

[SRPJ]

I will try this. What size wire will give the best flavor? I have 28, 30 and 32g to play with and all kinds of wicks in my stock.

30 is perfect for the job

 

[dr g]

Okay heres how it works. and by better vape you probably mean more clouds.

Lower resistance= a faster firing
More Wraps= more surface area heated
more surface= more clouds

eg; My atty is currently 4x3 (4 coils 3 wraps ea) using flat wire, the resistance is low(.22 ohms (not recommended btw)) for a faster firing, essentially because i only have 3 wraps my surface area isnt that much BUT because im using flat wire it is greatly increased giving me more vape for less.

Keep in mind that the lower your ohms are the hotter the intake of vapor is which means youll get a harsher hit so i would suggest working your way down to sub ohms (if using a mechanical mod) to get use to it unless you wanna man up to the hot vapor.

too oversimplified, only applies to mechs and only generally. regarding the hot vapor, it should not necessarily be hotter, though if you do things wrong it will be hotter. volume alone causes the massive increase in throat and nic hit.

The more air flow the less youll flavor youll taste.

Im assuming youre a first timer for sub ohms so id suggest doing something abit on the sub ohm high side like .7- .8

This is also overgeneralized. You can create a lot of volume without diminishing flavor, and for that you do need high flow.

 

[JacobO]

I think its really about what your looking for. In my experience like most people have said is the more surface area your wire covers produces more vapor (assuming you can heat it up properly) and for me brings out those subtle little hints in the juice that you may never pick up on out of something such as a carto tank.

 

[dice57]

I started out like the OP, and got a small supply of 30, 32 & some 28 that came with the Russian rba. did some different type of builds, then started doing micro and dragon builds. Now I'm really sold on the micro style of build. with 28awg, I can get about 10 wraps around a juice bottle blunt needle, tis smaller than a 1/16" drill, and get a 1.3 ohm coil, that vapes great at ~15 watts. As long as the wick build can keep up, having just the right amount and density of cotton, this builds blows my mind away. I shoot at 1-1.5ohm builds, mainly because my Provari only goes up to 6 volts, and with the lower ohm builds I can get more life out of my coil. The P maximum output is ~15.5 watts, and if I have over a 2ohm coil, I quickly run out of wattage at my preferred level of vaping, once the ohms creep up past 2.4ohms.

So as others have said, yes an no, depends on type of build, capabilities of your device, and how you like to vape. Generally speaking, more surface contact the more vape that can be produced. But this is dependent on your gear, I'm limited on the low end at .8ohms, P won't go no lower, and the high end of 15.5 watt output or 6volts max, which ever comes first with my current build.

The trick is finding what works best for you application and preferences, and finding a way to do it. I now order wire 25' at a time and have a bag of cotton, with a handful pre-boiled for immediate use, now that I know what and how I am building.

 

[MikeWhy]

The amazing part is we're all still struggling with this Stone Age stuff, the simplest of all possible DC resistive circuits in many cases,and still making a muck up of it. I mean, is a steel mesh gennie really the current state of the art? Of course they get hot spots. The vertical wicking, and putting the winding on the dry, unfed, wiggly end makes certain that you'll fiddle with it at least twice every half hour of vaping. I doubt seriously that so much as a single sober moment of engineering contemplation went into it.

What would a real engineer do about 316 stainless that needs to be made warm? I dunno. Maybe inductive heating is too obviously unworkable for a reason I don't immediately see. But it does seem to me the coil can just as easily be on the inside, and copper rather rather than Kanthal. (Now that would be a reason to envy the Provari's multi-kilohertz DC chopper.) I'll have to run some numbers, see what it would take (wire gauge vs volts; air or ferrite) at that frequency to get the AC impedance needed to vape juice.

And, oh yeah... I don't think the wind pitch or length is all that critical. What matters is getting enough juice through the wick fast enough to keep it fed. Figure each independent wick is good for at most 15 watts of coil heat each. My mesh wick gennies are right about on the hairy side of that if I'm careful to keep the stick tilted so it doesn't have to draw uphill too far. Anything more and I would need a second wick and coil.