MOSFET Wiring diagram for 2-button, dual voltage?

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petercro

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Dec 18, 2009
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I think this may work.
If I understand correctly.
One bat source is a 3.7v batt
one bat source is a 5v usb.
if so when usb is connected, pushing both buttons could course problems.
 

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candre23

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Mar 12, 2010
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Thanks for the schematic, charged! I'll order up the FETs when I get home tonight and hopefully those and the rest of the parts I ordered will be in by the end of the week.

I appreciate everybody's help with this. This will be (I think) a pretty unique build. I'll take pics along the way and post the results when I'm done.
 

CritterBuddy

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Dec 26, 2009
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Quick question.

If you use the 3.7v side too long and then use the 5v side later won't you have an unbalanced battery situation for possible failure of the batteries due to their power and maybe go kaboom?

I ask this as I designed and built a box mod capable of dual operation at 3.7v and 5v. Both worked as designed but then I thought about the potential unbalanced batteries and stopped using the 3.7v side just to be on the safe side.
 

noo

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Mar 24, 2010
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You don't need to use the battery. Putting the switches in the correct places in a resistor network on the gate will allow you to control the gate current, and therefore the drain current. Limiting the current across the atomizer controls the voltage drop. I do this on my pass through, but I use a 100ohm pot and a few 2n4403's as a current sink instead of the FETs, which are too fragile IMO.
 

Scottbee

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You don't need to use the battery. Putting the switches in the correct places in a resistor network on the gate will allow you to control the gate current, and therefore the drain current. Limiting the current across the atomizer controls the voltage drop. I do this on my pass through, but I use a 100ohm pot and a few 2n4403's as a current sink instead of the FETs, which are too fragile IMO.

Woah.... not with the FETs that he is using. There is no way that I would try to operate those FETs in the linear range at all (they're not really designed for that). You try to dissipate anything more than a watt or so across them, and they'll smoke. They're just too small without enough surface area to dissipate the heat. Use them as "switches" with just their small parasitic internal effective resistance and you'll be fine.

If you want to generate multiple voltage outputs from a single source.. there are better ways.
 

Scottbee

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You could sink the excess current elsewhere, but yes, device selection is important. That is why I like the 2n4403 for my switches, I can drive a few of them in parallel and get 2v ~ 4.2v across the atomizer from the USB. Just sayin that it could be done without the battery if desired.

I absolutely agree. But... if he wants to get the full 5V output (or close to it), he'll need to select a transistor that has good linear performance and a very low parasitic voltage drop as well. Right?
 

Scottbee

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I realized that my terminology is incorrect. by "atty" I mean atomizer, not battery, which seems to be the common reference. And by atomizer I actually mean a 2.7ohm cartomizer, which is all I own. My noob is showing....

No.. your terminology is correct. Atty = atomizer.

And for the sake of this conversation... a 2.7Ω cartomizer is close enough to most of the atomizers that we are running.

Carry on!

(P.S. But a transistor with an RDSon of .5Ω is going to have way too high of a V-drop for our use. At 2A you'd be dropping a full volt at the transistor.)
 

Scottbee

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The FETs and resistors from digikey have arrived, but the battery connector from madvapes has not. In any case, most of my tools are in storage at my mother's house and I won't have a chance to retrieve them until the weekend. Hopefully I can get this all made up and working by monday. Should be interesting. :D

Just remember: most electronic devices run on "smoke". And if you let the smoke out, they will quit working. :cool:
 
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