Moving up to mechanicals and RBAs

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popcornsauce

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So I'm planning on ordering an IGO-W3 and a Smoktech Magneto. I've been using a vamo v2 for a long time and just use the VW setting to find the right temperature based on my clearomizer or tank and resistance.

I know the basics of mechanicals but I'm wondering, for different resistances on rebuildables, do I need different batteries that push out different voltages? What's the deal with low resistance and sub ohm rebuildables with a mechanical? How do I choose the right voltage for my build?

Any help would be appreciated, as well as advice on rebuildables or links to guides.

Thanks in advance.
 

alkaiser

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you cannot choose the voltage as it's reliant on the battery. the whole point of going mechanical is to remove extra electronics from the equation. the reason people go low resistance/subohms is to get a higher powered vape (since we cannot change voltage). by removing additional electronics, there are no safety limitations, therefore get a higher powered vape than any variable voltage/wattage device out right now.

you can build to whatever power you want, and that's the beauty of mechanicals. if you like it hot and crazy, go subohm (get a good battery: sony vtc4). if you like it cooler, go higher resistance. i wouldn't go above 1.5 ohms single coil on a mech though...it's kind of weak.
 

patrao_n

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The fact that you are asking about voltage means you need to read the blogs by baditude. Voltage cannot be chosen. Your battery starts at 4.2 and decreases. You do change ohms. And different ohms require an amp rating that would accommodate it. You need a multi meter first off. And please do not cheap out on batteries. Get them from a reputable source. No trustful or sure fire or anything with fire in the name. I recommend the aw imr 18650 1600 mah batteries from rtd vapor.

Sent from my SM-N900T
 

eMats

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You can't push different voltages on a mech without a kick. I'd stick with the stock setup and get good batteries such as the Sony TC3 or TC4. A safe starting point for stock setup would be about 1.3-1.5 ohm IMO. It's very important to learn about the basics before exploring sub ohm setups so you don't blow yourself up.
 

jersey_emt

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I know the basics of mechanicals but I'm wondering, for different resistances on rebuildables, do I need different batteries that push out different voltages? What's the deal with low resistance and sub ohm rebuildables with a mechanical? How do I choose the right voltage for my build?

One of the advantages of mechanical mods is that you don't have to worry about voltage other than being sure to recharge the battery once you notice the vapor production dropping down so you don't go below ~3.3 volts which could damage the battery.

The high-drain batteries suitable for vaping all have a nominal voltage of 3.7 volts and a maximum charge voltage of 4.2 volts. What this means is that the battery will be at 4.2 volts right off the charger, drop down fairly quickly to 3.7 volts, then "plateau" at 3.7 volts and slowly discharge below that.

You adjust the wattage (power) by altering the resistance of the atomizer.

Power is calculated by:

Watts = (Voltage x Voltage) / Resistance in ohms

So a 1.0 ohm coil will produce 17.64 watts with a fresh battery.

(4.2V x 4.2V) / 1.0 ohms = 17.64 watts

You also need to be aware of how much current (amps) your coil is pulling from the battery, and make sure that the battery can safely handle it. For safety reasons, I like to never go above one-half of a battery's maximum current rating.

Amps are calculated by:

Amps = Voltage / Resistance in ohms

That same 1.0 ohm coil will pull 4.2 amps from a freshly charged battery.

4.2V / 1.0 ohms = 4.2 amps

This would be safe for a 10 amp battery, since it is less than 50% of its rating (5 amps).

I use Sony batteries which are rated for 30 amps, so I always stay below 15 amps for my coils. This means that the lowest resistance I will use is 0.3 ohms.

4.2V / 0.3 ohms = 14 amps

In reality, however, I have found my "sweet spot" to be around 0.8 ohms, and I rarely stray from this unless I want to try something new.

Some people like to push their batteries harder, but I would not recommend this. When a battery with a huge amount of stored energy is used merely a couple of inches from your face, it is smart to stay well within the safety margin.

As per advice and guides on building coils, there are plenty of information in the Rebuildable Atomizer Systems forum. There are also numerous videos on Youtube that show you step-by-step how to build every type of coil out there.

If you are going with an RDA (dripper) on your mechanical mod, and are using a battery rated for at least 10 amps, I would recommend starting out with a single 1/16" microcoil with 28 gauge Kanthal wire and a cotton wick at around 1.0 ohms. You will probably need around 7 or 8 wraps for this, but I am not certain because I have switched to a 3/64" drill bit to build my coils and have not built a 1/16" coil in a while. Also, depending on how tightly you wrap the wire, and how long the coil "legs" (the little bit of straight wire between the atomizer's posts and the coil itself), you may need 1 or 2 more (or less) wraps than what someone else does to reach the same target resistance. The 7 or 8 wraps is just a starting point -- build one, mount it, and check the resistance, then build another coil with more or fewer wraps based on what the first coil meters at.

Microcoils are probably the easiest type of coil to make, and wicking them with cotton is also extremely easy (and absurdly cheap -- a single bag of cotton balls will give you enough wicks literally for the rest of your life). An Igo-W is a great RDA because it is inexpensive, well-built, is easy to mount coils on (holes in the posts mean you just stick the coil leads through the holes then tighten the screws....no wrapping the leads underneath the screw head needed), and allows both single-coil and dual-coil builds.

Any specific questions on building your first coil should be asked in the Rebuildable Atomizer Systems forum.
 

WarHawk-AVG

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A. Get a multimeter
B. Know the MAX safe current your batteries can push
C. When in doubt try to build your coils to "normal" resistance levels (mine target resistance is 2.0Ω)
D. Double check your resistance before you push the fire button
E. Get familiar with this graph (just a visual guide) http://www.ecigadvanced.com/community/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/power.jpg


Other than this guys voice...he made a really good video
 
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Tintreach

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I can't stress the importance enough to know what the discharge rate if your batts are.

1: know what the amp rating of the battery is

2: Seriously learn ohms law and use a calculator.

3: with cheap mechs, be very careful with sub ohm builds. Just because the battery can handle the drain of the atty... DOES NOT mean the mod can handle the current. If anything seems to get warm or hot stop. That means that area of the mech is dirty or can not handle that much current where it is getting hot.

4: always double check your builds with an ohm meter before vaping.

Take your time and be careful. If you have any questions just ask someone.
 
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shiddyshad

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What model of Panasonic do you have? I have 2 NCR18650B's which are 10 amp 3400 mah batteries. These work fine for me. You need to make sure the batteries you are using have a high discharge rate. Don't use anything less than 10 amps. If your're not sure, a quick google of the specs for the model number of your battery will provide you with that information.
 
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