Thank you Suprtrkr, excelent hint...getting closer to the proper kit. Say I ll do 70w with the mod, what ohms should the coil be aprox? And if you can provide me the info, what wattage should not be exceeded if using a a 1.0 or 2.0 coils? I know there are some ohms calculators for that matter but your opinion would be maybe more practical based on your experience...Yeah, a 1 battery device should be optimal, but there are not so many models out there, as 2 or even 3 battery devices offered today compared to fixed one bat. The Smok G150 (
G150 - SMOK® Innovation keeps changing the vaping experience! ) seems perfect, nice looking dude who fires up to 150w, but with that limitation, in fact there are two 18650/4000 mAh batts fixed inside, if I recall correctly. If that one would be external bat system, I ll order it right now. But when batteries die, goodbye mod...but not for a technician, who could probably replace them, involving soldering and all that stuff. Thanks pal, cheers.
Assuming you are not (yet) a coil builder, I suggest you take a glance at the manufacturer's rating for the coil and not exceed it. I further suggest you recall manufacturers are in the business of selling coils as well as tanks and discount that "maximum" rating a bit, since they won't have any problems selling you a new one when you burn out the old one. Bear in mind also you can't get in trouble running a coil below its regulated wattage, although it might not get hot enough to make decent vapor depending on what you have.
I am a coil builder-- exclusively, I don't use pre-fabs any more-- so my advice regarding coils for watts may not work well for you regarding factory coils. For 70 watts, I wouldn't be above .5Ω, and even then I'd be using 12 or 15 wraps of some pretty hefty wire. Given you will be using a regulated mod, it will be pretty hard to get into trouble though. The worst that will happen is you will fry the coil; you are unlikely to blow yourself up as you might with a mehcanical. For a regulated mod, you also can't go too low so long as the mod will fire it, so you can go down to .15Ω or so, whatever is the minimum the mod you choose will work with. Try not to get the absolute bare minimum coil value. The Ohmmeters built into mods are notoriously inaccurate and you might get a perfectly good coil your mod "thinks" is too low to fire. Give yourself some breathing room.
For your 1.0 and 2.0Ω examples. I'd probably be in the 10-12 watt range on the former and not above 10-- maybe 8-- on the latter. With a tall coil like that, we know they're using tiny thin wire as it's the only way to pack that much resistance into something the size of a coil.
The problem with overpowering coils is the wire used, and we don't know what the manufacturers are using. They will say what kind of wire-- Kanthal, Stainless, NiCr, whatever-- because they have to with all the TC mods out there, and they will give an Ohm value, but they never say "22ga SS316, 8 full wraps on a 2mm mandrel" or anything like, so we really can't figure out the heat capacity of their wire bundle save by trial and error. Because of this, I can't really give you a "do not exceed" value for any specific coil. Neither have I any built up store of empirical evidence to offer, as a person who regularly uses such coils might; one of whom, hopefully, will stumble across this and offer their opinion. Remember also coils are made thousands per hour on automated machinery, and Chinese QC has a ways to go to equal US QC. You can expect some variance in factory coils, and further expect the occasional complete dud. (Which is also why I build mine. Building has its own problems, but it doesn't have
those problems.)
The purpose of that coil wire is to "waste" electrical power into resistance, thereby generating heat. Heat is good, that's what vaporizes e-juice. Too much heat is bad, though. Coils generally fail in two ways. One, the wire might break, meaning it no longer makes a circuit and it stops working. Two, the wick might burn (before or after plugging up from too much sweetness in the juice) and thereafter taste too foul to vape even if it still works. Too much power for the coil can occasion a type 1 failure: the wire heats up so much it exceeds its melting point, or softens and breaks from the tension it was wound under. That much heat also probably burnt the wick too, but you won't know because the coil doesn't work with a broken wire and you can't taste what it vapes like.
A type 2 failure is usually juice related. The sweetness in the juice caramelizes in the wick from the heat in the coil. This eventually plugs the wick so it won't wick any more. Once it won't wick, as soon as you fire it dry, there it goes. How long this takes can't be accurately predicted either, but more sweet and dark color in the juice, plus more watts on the coil, all shorten coil life.
I know, from reading, many people like the Smok Baby Beast tank, and it has coils that can be vaped from 30ish out to 300+ watts, according to the literature. You might want to take a look at that one.
And when you're ready to learn coil building I, or any number of others, will be happy to teach you.
