Multi volt design?

[frequentflyer]

I am a new vaper but tried a 5v the other day and LOVED it. I wanted to get one but I am having problems coming up with the options that I want. I was looking for something with replaceable batteries (I go camping for a week or so at a time in the back country) and that I could select 3.7, 5 & 6V options depending on the hit I was looking for. Has anyone designed something like this or has an idea where to start? Thanks for the help.

 

[Scottbee]

Rumor has it that a unit with CVV (Completely Variable Voltage) is coming from "NotCigs.com".

That would allow you to "dial in" any voltage (between 3.6 and 6V) that you wanted.

 

[MastiffMike]

Rumor has it that a unit with CVV (Completely Variable Voltage) is coming from "NotCigs.com".

That would allow you to "dial in" any voltage (between 3.6 and 6V) that you wanted.

If I'm not mistaken, it's supposed to be 12 steps which is TOTALLY NOT "completely variable"!

I still wish he'd use my suggestion of a multi-position slide switch instead of a screw pot. Who wants to carry a tiny screwdriver (and use it!) just to change voltage? Heck, use a slide switch that does MasterOff/3.7/4.5/5.3/6.0 (or some other voltage levels) and is easily user switched! IMHO, I seriously doubt the average vaper needs/wants infinitly adjustable! Ease of use with a thoughtful choice of voltage levels would be better. Heck, with attys in 3 or 4 different resitance levels (say 1.5, 3.?, 4.5, 5.2) you really don't need more than a couple voltages to be able to reach pretty much any wattage. I'd think most people would prefer the mass marketed (and therefore low cost) "stock" attys and you'd still have a wide variety of obtainable wattages!

Then again, maybe I'm totally wrong!

 

[frequentflyer]

Anybody ever tried to build one? I really don't care too much what it looks like, just that I can vape well with it.

 

[frequentflyer]

Please keep in mind I am a noob to building.

 

[MastiffMike]

Another thought about varying voltage...

What about just using two 3-position slide switches?

Switch #1 (voltage steps) = 3.7(parallel) - 5.0(regulator) - 7.4(series)
Switch #2 (adjustment/fine tuning) = +/-0 - -.25 - -.5

The adjustments "steps" could be different than what I listed, those are just examples.
This would give you the ability to run at 3.2, 3.45, 3.7, 4.5, 4.75, 5.0, 6.9, 7.15, and 7.4
I'd think that's enough steps, especially when you factor in the batteries voltage drop while in use. To be real user friendly "on the fly" when your batteries voltage starts to drop it needs to factor in the incoming voltage and therefore your adjustment steps need to be either set to known voltages or very easily adjusted.

Once again, just thinking out loud...

 

[Scottbee]

If I'm not mistaken, it's supposed to be 12 steps which is TOTALLY NOT "completely variable"!


Then again, maybe I'm totally wrong!

"Maybe"...

I believe (pretty dayum sure actually) that it is a "twelve TURN potentiometer".... turns, not steps.

 

[MastiffMike]

"Maybe"...

I believe (pretty dayum sure actually) that it is a "twelve TURN potentiometer".... turns, not steps.

OK, I've been corrected! See what happens when an idiot tries to correct a genuis!

12 TURNS??? Like in 360degrees x 12?!?!? Holy carpal tunnel batman!
So without a voltage display how the heck you supposed to know where you're at? I had mentioned having "steps" or at least markings on it as a visual indicator of where you're at but with 12 turns they'd pretty much be useless!

ARGGGG.... my head is hurting.... my doctor warned me about trying to think.... to quote him "Don't try it! There's people better equipped to handle it!"

 

[candre23]

It's pretty easy to DIY that kind of setup. Just use the parts I suggested in this thread. If you prefer infinite variability, just replace R2 with a 50k pot.

 

[5cardstud]

Yhe only problem I see with a slide is you would have to check it each time. Especially if you put it in your pocket. Just build a computorized model that keeps the desired voltage settins and get it over with. Thats where it will end up anyway.

 

[Wall]

I did a drawing somewhere of one, still waiting on some parts to get here for it.


http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/72731-double-button-3-7v-5v-6v-copper-mod.html


Uses two buttons to choose regulated or unregulated, but the voltage options are, 1 battery (4.2-3.1v depending on how dead it is) 2 batteries (5v regulated) or 2 batteries (whatever the combined voltage is, 8.4v at fresh charge, closer to 6v when almost dead)

 

[Scottbee]

OK, I've been corrected! See what happens when an idiot tries to correct a genuis!

12 TURNS??? Like in 360degrees x 12?!?!? Holy carpal tunnel batman!
So without a voltage display how the heck you supposed to know where you're at? I had mentioned having "steps" or at least markings on it as a visual indicator of where you're at but with 12 turns they'd pretty much be useless!

ARGGGG.... my head is hurting.... my doctor warned me about trying to think.... to quote him "Don't try it! There's people better equipped to handle it!"

Well.. er... um...... here's another way to look at it:

With the exception of putting it here on the forum, and impressing your friends and neighbors with your command of electronics and significant units of measure... What do you really care what the "exact" voltage is? Just turn the pot fully CCW (Counter Clockwise) and start to vape. Add some CW turns until you get it where you like.... your own personal "sweet spot", and leave it there. Overshoot a bit if you want.. and then "back into it" if it makes you feel better. There... that's YOUR setting.

Do you really care... or is it really important if you happen to be sitting at 4.378 volts.. or 216.513 grumplesnards?

 

[Global_Apathy]

I concur it's kind of like a dimmer switch ... gotta set the mood right.

 

[AJMoore]

My current love (yes, I'm fickle) is the Nhaler Xhaler. It hits every time, you can go 3.7 or 5. You can drip or cartomize, do it anyway you want (oh my) I'm in love. Oh dear....better go now.

 

[Global_Apathy]

It may only be me but everyone always talks about adjusting voltage.... What we really want to do is adjust watts...Like a light bulb.. you want to be able to turn it up and down to your preference. which means you have to adjust voltage but you also have to be able to supply current at that voltage. So why haven't I stumbled across any variable current source threads. This is really what the battery mods are all about. You want more current across your coil so you increase the voltage. Why not build a variable current source?

Variable (Adjustable) Current Limiter Circuit | Free Circuit Diagram

 

[sjohnson]

Either variable voltage or variable current will get it done.

In DC circuits, which is what a personal vaporizer uses, what we need are watts. In an electrical system power (P, watts) is equal to the voltage (V) multiplied by the current (I, or amperage).

P = VI

Vary the volts, you vary the power (watts)

Vary the current, you vary the power (watts)

Either gets the job done. With volt sources close to the needed volt X amp ratio required to generate the needed watts power, variable voltage works out simpler to implement. With higher volt sources, it becomes simpler to limit current.

If some low resistance atomizers become available, where the voltage from lithium batteries becomes "high" compared to need, current-limiting circuits will become popular. With the atomizer resistances we can currently obtain, voltage-regulating circuits are easiest to make use of.

 

[Global_Apathy]

I know... I guess what I was trying to get across is that having a current controlled output would be better than a fixed voltage. It would be more... consistent... but I don't know if you could tell the difference.

The resistance of a heater coil increases with temperature.. and so does the nature of a voltage supply. The more current you push through it the temperatures go up and the volts out generally go down. I'm sure most of the box mods don't have proper heat sinks or air flow.. they're small and home made. If the voltage stays constant the resistance increases and the current goes down. Though I do suppose it is only on for 2-5 seconds and the user won't notice much of a difference. Sometimes I get too technical. I still want to build a pwm and see how well it operates.

 

[frequentflyer]

The question I still have is how would a complete noob build it - I have NO electrical experience but am willing to learn. I have a 510 & ordered a Silver Bullet yesterday, but would like to have one simple to use adjustable unit (yes, the bug has got me).

 

[candre23]

Here is how you'd wire it up on a 5x5 piece of breadboard. This requires two batteries in series (7.4V) to power it. Atty - should be connected directly to the battery negative, in case that's not obvious. As the enable pin draws only a few micro amps of current, a tactile switch will work just fine for a button. The spec sheet recommends tantalum for the 10uF cap. Ceramic is fine for the 100pF caps. A 100k pot would give you a range of about 2.5V to 6.5V. A 50K pot would give you a range of ~3.8V to 6.5V. You're on your own for finding an appropriate enclosure.

 

[invisiblewardog]

If I'm not mistaken, it's supposed to be 12 steps which is TOTALLY NOT "completely variable"!

I still wish he'd use my suggestion of a multi-position slide switch instead of a screw pot. Who wants to carry a tiny screwdriver (and use it!) just to change voltage? Heck, use a slide switch that does MasterOff/3.7/4.5/5.3/6.0 (or some other voltage levels) and is easily user switched! IMHO, I seriously doubt the average vaper needs/wants infinitly adjustable! Ease of use with a thoughtful choice of voltage levels would be better. Heck, with attys in 3 or 4 different resitance levels (say 1.5, 3.?, 4.5, 5.2) you really don't need more than a couple voltages to be able to reach pretty much any wattage. I'd think most people would prefer the mass marketed (and therefore low cost) "stock" attys and you'd still have a wide variety of obtainable wattages!

Then again, maybe I'm totally wrong!

I was actually contemplating this idea last night. With a multi-position slide switch, it could rout the battery power through a different resistor to simulate a change in applied voltage. Really it would directly affect the current ( V=IR, V being constant, if R increases I must decrease ).

So say you had 2x3.7V batteries in a mod (fat nicostick?) and a standard atty of, to make it simple, 3ohms. To make it easier and, let's knock the numbers down to 2x3.5V for a total of 7V (relative comparisons are easy )

I would propose a switch with the following positions of simulated voltage:

Master Off
4V - 2.25ohm resistor (1.33amp * 5.25ohm = 7V)
5V - 1.2ohm resistor (1.67amp x 4.2ohm = 7V)
6V - 0.5ohm resistor (2.0amp x 3.5ohm = 7v)
7V - power routed directly to atty (2.33amp x 3ohm = 7v) to fry your atty instantly ;-)

I guess my question would be if the small resistors would pop if put in the circuit like that? I call it simulated voltage, but really it is just producing a different current. Example:

For a standard 3ohm atty:
V=IR
5V = 1.67amp * 3ohms
7V = 1.67amp * ?
?ohms = 7V/1.67amp
? = 4.2ohms
4.2 - 3 = 1.2, so you need to add a 1.2ohm resistor to the 3ohm atty to get the same current with a 7V supply as if you had a 5V.

People generally talk about power and wattage, but I look at the current. Easier in my mind, at least.

Even better, can we just find some small step-down transformers? Hehe. //edit: yeah, it only works for AC, not DC...would be nice though