multimeter

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Liscab

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I just bought myself a multimeter to test my batteries but for the life of me I can't figure out how to use it. I probably sound dumb but I get no reading from this thing. Can someone explain to me how to use it so I can check the mah that this thing should be showing me.
we need to see some info about your mt, and that is all
 

Barefoot Joe

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While this thread is fresh, and this is somewhat on topic, I have a question. I know that testing atty's resistance can tell you if they are good (an 801 should read about 3.3 ohms). How about testing the continuity on an atty? If there is no continuity, is it dead? If that is true, seems like a quick way to check for a dead atty.
 

Lightgeoduck

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While this thread is fresh, and this is somewhat on topic, I have a question. I know that testing atty's resistance can tell you if they are good (an 801 should read about 3.3 ohms). How about testing the continuity on an atty? If there is no continuity, is it dead? If that is true, seems like a quick way to check for a dead atty.

Yes it is true there if there is no continuity it is dead, but not necessarily quick. I mean puffing away using a good battery and full cart, but no vapor is a quick way.

I don't use a multimeter to test atties, but I think the purpose would be to monitor when it is GOING bad not when it is totally dead..
 

gjrhine

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I think you would have to take the additional steps of verifying current from the battery and connectivity through the adapter. Chris answered in the affirmative to this -

6. With atty screwed into adapter I can touch the bottom of the adapter outer circle and inner post and show connectivity.
 

Barefoot Joe

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OK...let me be a little more specific. With the atty not attached to the device, if there is no continuity from the center to the threads, the atty is dead, right? From my limited understanding, it is just a simple circuit/heating element.

Or Gary, were you answering someone else's question? BTW, I think it was you who convinced me to get a multimeter. Now you are paying the price!
 

gjrhine

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Ok I'm going to tell you I really don't know for sure. I always test attomizers for resistance. Even if a test would show connectivity I don't know that that means it's good. Testing for ohms can show not only it's good but "how" good. From the multimeter link -

"What is continuity?
You might be asking, "What is continuity?" But don't worry, it's quite simple! Continuity means, are two things electrically connected. So if two electronic parts are connected with a wire, they are continuous. If they are connected with cotton string, they are not: while they are connected, the cotton string is not conductive.

You can always use a resistance-tester (ohmmeter) to figure out if something is connected because the resistance of wires is very small, less than 100 ohms, usually. However, continuity testers usually have a piezo buzzer which beeps. This makes them very useful when you want to poke at a circuit and need to focus on where the probes are instead of staring at the meter display.

For some basic circuits you can just look to see where the wires go to determine continuity but it's always wise to use a multimeter. Sometimes wires break or you're tired and can't easily follow all the PCB traces. I use continuity check all the time!

What is it good for?
Continuity is one of the most important tests. Here are some things it is good for

Determine if your soldering is good. If your solder joint it is a cold solder connection it will appear connected but in actually it is not! This can be really frustrating if you are not experienced in visually detecting cold solder joints
Determine if a wire is broken in the middle. Power cords and headphone cables are notorious for breaking inside the shielding, it appears as if the cable is fine but inside the wires have been bent so much they eventually broke.
Making sure something isn't connected. Sometimes a solder joint will short two connections. Or maybe your PCB has mistakes on it and some traces were shorted by accident.
Reverse-engineering or verifying a design back to a schematic"
 

Papa Lazarou

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OK...let me be a little more specific. With the atty not attached to the device, if there is no continuity from the center to the threads, the atty is dead, right? From my limited understanding, it is just a simple circuit/heating element.

Thats right. No continuity means it is dead, like if the coil has broken. Continuity is just a simple test of whether the circuit is complete. Its possible to have a dodgy atomiser with continuity (but for example with a higher resistance than is acceptable) but if the electrical circuit is not complete then it will be stone cold dead.
 

Lightgeoduck

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Yes it is true there if there is no continuity it is dead, but not necessarily quick. I mean puffing away using a good battery and full cart, but no vapor is a quick way.

I don't use a multimeter to test atties, but I think the purpose would be to monitor when it is GOING bad not when it is totally dead..

I thought that answered your question Bearfoot. the first statement said that it is true no continuity it is dead. I just added that it isn't necessarily quicker.

To add if you are testing an atty at that stage it wouldn't matter if you check continuity or resistance.... zero continuity means infinite resistance...
 

Barefoot Joe

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Yep...I see that you answered that now. Thanks!

Just to add, I find it useful to know if an addy is dead for sure. On my digital multimeter, a dead atty's resistance seems to jump around erratically, whereas continuity is either there or not. Easy for me to understand.

And, I'm not implying to use either continuity OR resistance. Resistance tells you the state of the atty's health, continuity can't do that (unless you consider "dead" a state of health).

I wish you guys wouldn't put up so much resistance, it causes the thread to lose continuity. Sorry, I just couldn't resist...ha, did it again!
 

Richie G

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On my digital multimeter, a dead atty's resistance seems to jump around erratically, whereas continuity is either there or not. Easy for me to understand.

>

Hmmm. Your readings shouldn't jump around erratically whether the atty is live or dead. It should be a steady display. Methinks you're not applying constant pressure on the metal surfaces, or they are dirty, or your fingers are sliding down on the metallic part of the probe, thus giving you more of a "Barefoot Joe" reading instead of the atty you're testing. =)
 

Barefoot Joe

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I think you will find after the probes have been held steady for 3-4 seconds it will settle on a number.

Yep, it does eventually stabilize. It's nice to know it is supposed to do that. I didn't know whether to trust the very high number, in the case of a dead atty, or not. Thanks.

>

Hmmm. Your readings shouldn't jump around erratically whether the atty is live or dead. It should be a steady display. Methinks you're not applying constant pressure on the metal surfaces, or they are dirty, or your fingers are sliding down on the metallic part of the probe, thus giving you more of a "Barefoot Joe" reading instead of the atty you're testing. =)

I don't think any of those pitfalls apply to me, I try to be careful. But, excellent tips anyway!

Just as an experiment, I did test the "Barefoot Joe" resistance by sticking the red probe in my right ear, and the black in my left. I got a reading of Zero! What does that mean? 8-o I'll reverse the probes and report back. Or, maybe I should try one in my mouth, and the other up... um, never mind. :shock:
 
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