MVP 2.0 reading weird resistances

[Lowpro]

Hey guys, new here so posting in the newbie forum. I have an Innoken MVP 2.0 and have had it for about 2 months. I've been using my Russian 91% rebuildable and what I like is that the MVP reads the resistances on the device. I usually build a coil with 28 gauge and get about 8-10 wraps and with the cotton in the Russian's base I get resistances of about 1.3 which I am fine with (don't give a crap about hitting 1.0 or whatever, as long as I'm diggin' my vape I'm happy). However lately my MVP starts saying the resistances are insanely high like 3.2. If I take out the Russian and put it back in it'll read something like 2.6. I'd basically kinda pat the MVP against my hand and check and it'll show 1.3 again. So basically either something's loose on the MVP or something I can't think of is wrong.

Anyone know what I'm talking about and know the fix?

 

[Fisheeboy]

It may be the atty not the MVP.
One of the posts may have loosed and the wire is not making a strong connection and therefore giving different readings.

 

[Vermonster13]

What watts are you set at?

 

[Jeffk123]

I actually no longer use my russian because of this problem. I narrowed my problem down to the 510 adjustable connection shorting out on itself. My russian is sitting in my tank graveyard now. Kind of sad I liked it too

 

[hudson_macbeth]

wait what? I've been thinking about getting a Russian

 

[Vermonster13]

The Russian can be shorted by adjusting the screw without keeping the positive base in place. It will move and touch or barely touch the negative post and cause shorts and crazy readings. They really need to have the delrin insulator run up between the two.

 

[Jeffk123]

The Russian can be shorted by adjusting the screw without keeping the positive base in place. It will move and touch or barely touch the negative post and cause shorts and crazy readings. They really need to have the delrin insulator run up between the two.

I agree I got so irritated with it I just retired it. I hear the v2 is even worse about it

 

[hudson_macbeth]

The Russian can be shorted by adjusting the screw without keeping the positive base in place. It will move and touch or barely touch the negative post and cause shorts and crazy readings. They really need to have the delrin insulator run up between the two.

I wonder if there's a easy way to fix this in the field. I may have to try to get my hands on one to check this out.

 

[Lowpro]

Hmm I'm in the Mibbit chat thing right now. Weird thing is that my Russian fires just fine on my KTS mod and I have never tinkered with the screw in the base (the one that I believe should make contact with the MVP). I can't really tell whether the two small screws that each lead are wrapped around are making any contact they shouldn't be making but they are tightly screwed down such that they're holding the leads in place.

On a side note I have a Kayfun atomizer as well but that never works on my MVP because from what I can tell the atomizer doesn't make contact with the bottom of my MVP such that the resistance checker always reads NON and there's no vapor. But the Kayfun works fine on my KTS.

 

[hudson_macbeth]

Hmm I'm in the Mibbit chat thing right now. Weird thing is that my Russian fires just fine on my KTS mod and I have never tinkered with the screw in the base (the one that I believe should make contact with the MVP). I can't really tell whether the two small screws that each lead are wrapped around are making any contact they shouldn't be making but they are tightly screwed down such that they're holding the leads in place.

On a side note I have a Kayfun atomizer as well but that never works on my MVP because from what I can tell the atomizer doesn't make contact with the bottom of my MVP such that the resistance checker always reads NON and there's no vapor. But the Kayfun works fine on my KTS.

raising the pin on your mvp doesn't help the Kayfun to fire?

 

[Vermonster13]

My Hcigar 3.1 works great on everything and gives me no grief. My Ehpro Russian I have to pay careful attention to with every build or I get the short issue. Eventually I'll put a delrin shim between the bases.

 

[Lowpro]

No idea how to raise the pin

 

[Jeffk123]

I wonder if there's a easy way to fix this in the field. I may have to try to get my hands on one to check this out.

I might be able to get ahold of some delrin spacers at my job I wonder if sanding to the exact dimensions of the inner tube would fix this I am gonna have to try it out. I love the flavor from kayfun type attys

 

[hudson_macbeth]

No idea how to raise the pin

Take a needle or paperclip, carefully lift the center pin, working your way around. Shouldn't have to come up much?

 

[Vermonster13]

The place it happens usually is the actual base that the positive contact screws in. It moves when you adjust the contact and even when you tighten the positive screw to attach your coil if you tighten to much.

 

[Lowpro]

Hmm I can tinker with that I guess. I bet that pin is always pushed down though because I clean the inside of that part (what is that part called where you screw in the MVP?) with a Q-tip so I bet there's a lot of downward force on that pin

 

[hudson_macbeth]

Try not to really tighten tanks down really tight if you do adjust the pin, otherwise you will have to do it all over again

 

[Lowpro]

Heh well if that's true then I may just keep the Kayfun on the KTS . Reason I got the MVP was because it can check the resistances and USB powered rather than having to dink with batteries. Only thing that I don't like about the Russian is that when I got it it didn't have an adapter to swap out the tips so it looks like I'm sucking on an inch long nipple >.>

 

[hudson_macbeth]

There is a fix that is more permanent, but it involves getting the right sized o ring or a shim under the pin once lifted

 

[Lowpro]

hmm is the pin that i'm supposed to lift just a flat top with a smaller pin under the top? I have dental spacers I can use. They're pretty much really small rubber 0-rings. If the pin is a flat top and I can fit the rubber spacer over it and under the top maybe that'll work >.>.

I wanted to take the MVP apart but the screws are really small torx screws that I don't have anything to take them off.