My cheap-cheap non batteries powered mod

[LibertariaNate]

I believe it is a 378R05. Most of what you said went above my head. Like I said, I'm no electrical engineer.

I have a Maxi Roughstack that can do 3.7, 5, 6, or 7.4 depending on the battery configuration, so I don't plan on changing my 5v box mod any time soon. I'm not particularly comfortable with a soldering iron anyway.

That's some kind of battery life. I've never run any of mine dead, but that's because I have 3 PVs I use on a regular basis. It just depends on the voltage/flavor I'm vaping at any given moment. Right now it's some DIY Blackberry Cheesecake @ 5v...

 

[Jbchow]

I believe it is a 378R05. Most of what you said went above my head. Like I said, I'm no electrical engineer.

I have a Maxi Roughstack that can do 3.7, 5, 6, or 7.4 depending on the battery configuration, so I don't plan on changing my 5v box mod any time soon. I'm not particularly comfortable with a soldering iron anyway.

That's some kind of battery life. I've never run any of mine dead, but that's because I have 3 PVs I use on a regular basis. It just depends on the voltage/flavor I'm vaping at any given moment. Right now it's some DIY Blackberry Cheesecake @ 5v...

Ya I with that other device who cares I like a one PV does all (Less stuff to carry on trips ;-) )

I Love the blueberry cheesecake i make. (I love DIYFlavorshack I just cant afford to buy premade mixes so i bought the supplys and make them myself) If you have the stuff to make your own try the Brused Heart i posted here. (Below images) Its my all the time vape. I love it

 

[Jbchow]

LibertariaNate
I was just thinking about this and I was curious Have you ever tried a 901? I get a super throat hit and super vapor production with my 901 (Primary reason I switched from a 510 => 306 => 901)

 

[brunomdoss]

Very good M&M Mod. Ahahah! Congratulations

 

[sammorris]

Just a little background. I am an Electromechanical Engineer. The key for these fluids as I have found over much testing is broken down to wattage. In case anyone doesn't know in the DC world wattage = Volts * Amps. So the 3 ohm atomizer was designed to run at 3.7 volts and with ohms law V=IR with a little manipulation I=V/R => 3.7 Volts/3 Ohms = 1.23 Amps => 3.7 Volts * 1.23 Amps= 4.55 Watts. So if you intend to run the atomizer with a 5V power supply the atomizer will be producing 5 Volts/3 Ohms=1.66 Amps => 5 Volts * 1.66 Amps = 8.3 Watts. Which just burns the fluid. There are a few solutions.
1) Buy a 4.5 Ohm atomizer which is design to run at 5 Volts.
2) Put a 1 Ohm Load resistor in series with the atomizer. This will drop the effective voltage across the atomizer to 3.7 V (just make sure the resistor can handle the 1.23 Amps) (this is what I did on my Tekkeon mod (MP1860A) To get the 5 Volt 2 Amp supply down. (I did this with a switch So I could easily remove or add the resistor at will)
3) Have a supply which has a limited current out. In this case a 1 Amp supply would do the trick. Also to note most USB ports can only put out 0.5 to 1 Amps.
4) Use a voltage regulator to drop the voltage down to 3.7 V
In your case with your 2 Amp supply I would recommend option 2 or 4 with your current system.

Hopefully this shines some light on this and helps to clear up any problems

Chow:

Can u explain why my single port usb passthrough only measure 3.7-3.8v with a 3ohm cartomizer? My guess is the port reached its maximum current rating. Anyway, my second usb passthrough (the highlighter with 2 usb ports cable) will put out 4.33v under the same 3ohm load. That should equal to 1.44 amp and each port will draw 0.7amp. Therefore, i am not overloading the port. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modders-forum/192436-essential-people-work-office.html
I agree the with high voltage like the power supply does burn the juice. When i vape it, the juice just lost most of its flavor. you do get a ton of smoke with shorter drags. That is why i gave to my co-worker who have been vaping for over a year already. And he loves it. I am still new to this and just not ready for it.

I started with a joye 510. Made a flashlight mod with 3x 1.2v NiMh batteries. I think the joye 510 works much better than the flashlight. Then i start using a 14500 with a sleeve in the flashlight. With a single 14500, I think the joye 510 still works better.
Now, I just made a "PUCK" over the memorial day using 4x 1.2 NiMh. That works for me the best.
Here is the power comparsion of all the ones I tried. (in my opinion)

flashlight w/ 3x 1.2v < flashligh w/ 1x 14500 < joye 510 (not sure what the actual voltage is) < single port usb pass through < dual port usb pass through < "The Puck" with 4x 1.2v < The 5.2v power supply with 2 amp.

I personally like the Puck best. I haven't make a 5v (2x14500) box yet, but tried one. i can't comment on that since i only did a couple puff. But i don't think with the 5v box, you are getting 5V with load. the reason i said that is because the power supply does put out a lot more power.

 

[Jbchow]

Chow:

Can u explain why my single port usb passthrough only measure 3.7-3.8v with a 3ohm cartomizer? My guess is the port reached its maximum current rating. Anyway, my second usb passthrough (the highlighter with 2 usb ports cable) will put out 4.33v under the same 3ohm load. That should equal to 1.44 amp and each port will draw 0.7amp. Therefore, i am not overloading the port. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modders-forum/192436-essential-people-work-office.html
I agree the with high voltage like the power supply does burn the juice. When i vape it, the juice just lost most of its flavor. you do get a ton of smoke with shorter drags. That is why i gave to my co-worker who have been vaping for over a year already. And he loves it. I am still new to this and just not ready for it.

I started with a joye 510. Made a flashlight mod with 3x 1.2v NiMh batteries. I think the joye 510 works much better than the flashlight. Then i start using a 14500 with a sleeve in the flashlight. With a single 14500, I think the joye 510 still works better.
Now, I just made a "PUCK" over the memorial day using 4x 1.2 NiMh. That works for me the best.
Here is the power comparsion of all the ones I tried. (in my opinion)

flashlight w/ 3x 1.2v < flashligh w/ 1x 14500 < joye 510 (not sure what the actual voltage is) < single port usb pass through < dual port usb pass through < "The Puck" with 4x 1.2v < The 5.2v power supply with 2 amp.

I personally like the Puck best. I haven't make a 5v (2x14500) box yet, but tried one. i can't comment on that since i only did a couple puff. But i don't think with the 5v box, you are getting 5V with load. the reason i said that is because the power supply does put out a lot more power.

Logically I would say A) When you try and pull more current than the port can put out the port starts to drop the voltage until the current draw is met. B) If it is one you bought The passthrough has a voltage regulator in it.
I feel its important to note the voltage should be read both before the load is applied and after. This will tell you two different things. A) Unloaded This is the voltage the regulator would like to put out and B) This is the voltage it puts out under the 3 ohm load. A is important when someone asks you "What is the voltage on that port". B is useful for troubleshooting.

To your second point you actually are overloading the port. I would say 95% of the ports on your laptop/Desktop should put out 0.5 amps. The rest might be able to put out more it depends on whats driving them. If you over draw the port it can do two things cut back on your power until your pulling the correct amount of current or overheat till it either goes into thermal shutdown or fries. Hopefully it will be the former and not the later This would also explain why the power dropped below 5 volts. I find most usb ports will put out 5.1 volts that way when a load is applied they will drop down to 5 volts for the sake of simplicity we will just call it 5 volts.
A thing to note when using batteries. The rated voltage is the nominal voltage when charged they will be higher for example a 3.7v li ion battery will be charged to 4.2 volts. (I deal with Li Ion batteries more often so I know this is true) NiMH are rated for 1.2V per cell and tend to charge to 1.6-1.8 volts (this is from memory please correct me if I am wrong but it should be close) When dealing with batteries it is important to be aware of the batteries internal resistance (Shown on the datasheet) This will show you the limit of how much current maximum the battery can be drawn. It is also important to follow the C rating for the cell. This rating tells you how much current should be drawn this is usually defined by the number of amp hours (also noted as Ah or mAh for milliamp hours) Ideally a 1 Ah battery will allow you to pull 1 amp for 1 hour or 0.25 amps for 4 hours, ect... So depending on how much current you are drawing with your atty it will determine just how the battery preforms and how much power is sunk. Honestly I would go li Ion you will get better performance and longer run times just be cautious of Overcurrent,Overcharge, Short circuit and Overdischarge Ignoring the first three can result in a huge self oxidizing fire (think flare only worse) Over discharging will just result in a destroyed battery. The easiest way to avoid all of those is to go with a prebuilt power pack which you throw on a adapter to vape from. If you want you could buy the tekkeon charger and just plug in your pass through If you use a high resistance atty (5v atty) or use a 1 ohm load resistor in series with the atomizer you should be fine (no more burnt taste but all the joy of usb) Check out my tekkeon mod it might be your best bet for a long vaping high quality build (If you don't break the snaps you wont need hot glue either ;-) )

Let me know if that answered your question or if it just went way over your head. :-(

(1 ohm resistors are in many electronic gadgets your looking for a fat ceramic one with the striping Brown Black Gold (Gold/Silver/None ideally it will be gold but buggers cant be choosers) You want something that can handle the 4.56 watts (those ones you buy in a bag of 500 at radio shack are 1/4 watt)

 

[sammorris]

Chow:

If you add a 1ohm resistor in series with the atty, then you lose the point of have a high voltage PV. The vapor will not be as warm and the the vapor production will be less and less TH.

 

[Jbchow]

Chow:

If you add a 1ohm resistor in series with the atty, then you lose the point of have a high voltage PV. The vapor will not be as warm and the the vapor production will be less and less TH.

I currently have this setup and I get a wicked TH and nice warm vapor as well as huge vapor production (Fricken clouds).

Now I figure you feel you need a higher voltage because your most likely are not mixing your own juice so you cannot accomplish this with your atty running at normal voltage.
I also feel i should note here I get far more vapor production/TH on my 901s than I ever did on any of my 306 or 510. The only I could ever came close on a 510 or 306 was to crank up the voltage.
Now with a 5V 1A Supply (5 Watts due to the fact that the supply is a current limiting device) it worked amazing I could run it nonstop and never burned
but with a 5V 2A Supply (8.33 Watts due to ohms law because in these case the supply can provide up to 10 watts) it would work for half a hit and then super burn.
vs for comparison 3.7V 2A supply (4.56 Watts due to ohms law because in these case the supply can provide up to 7.4 watts) I wouldn’t be surprised if your batteries are also limiting your current on a standard PV.

The key to these devices is Wattage not voltage. The reason the wattage goes up when you increase the wattage is because they are linked but just driving up the voltage without paying attention to the wattage is self-defeating.

The whole point of the resistor is to drop down the voltage and there for drop down the wattage. If you want the 5 Watts effect off a 5v 2A supply you need a 0.88 ohm resistor in series which will drop down the voltage across the atty to 3.87V (higher voltage) at 1.29 Amps.
Since they do not make them standard you could get two 1.8 ohm resistors and put them in parallel which would give you the equitant to a 0.9 ohm resistor or you could just use a 1 ohm with a 5% tolerance which would range between 1.05 and 0.95

Long story short Either get a variable resistor and manually tweak it (hopefully with a large pot on a voltage regulator) or try the 1 ohm resistor and let me know what you think

Trust me I get what your trying to do but understand that you are overdoing it ;-)

 

[Jbchow]

Here I made a video to show you
This is my Brused Heart mix with my 901 at 3.7 volts

 

[DarthVper]

I was just thinking of doing my own mod for my Ruyan cigar, you have inspired me! I was thinking i need to find something that screws on the end to replace the led/battery cap, something to replace/replicate the battery that'd be about the same size (a fuse perhaps?) and an old usb cord that i can splice into the pos/neg leads of the aformentioned cap replacement. The opening is just larger than a coax cable female, so that's out.
Here's the cigar end. I don't know about the opening size but the battery is 10mm wide and there's maybe 1mm wiggle room inside.
For the cap replacement screw-on, I was thinking something like this, but this particular one is too small
Hmmm...

 

[Jbchow]

I was just thinking of doing my own mod for my Ruyan cigar, you have inspired me! I was thinking i need to find something that screws on the end to replace the led/battery cap, something to replace/replicate the battery that'd be about the same size (a fuse perhaps?) and an old usb cord that i can splice into the pos/neg leads of the aformentioned cap replacement. The opening is just larger than a coax cable female, so that's out.
Here's the cigar end. I don't know about the opening size but the battery is 10mm wide and there's maybe 1mm wiggle room inside.
For the cap replacement screw-on, I was thinking something like this, but this particular one is too small
Hmmm...

How about taking a 1/8 inch drill bit (or whatever size drill bit is around the diameter of your cord and drilling through one of the quarters on the old cap? I'm not sure whats behind it but you may be able to rip out the old led/circuitry and just run the cord through there.

 

[love68579229]

M&M tube is my favorite~ cool

 

[DarthVper]

How about taking a 1/8 inch drill bit (or whatever size drill bit is around the diameter of your cord and drilling through one of the quarters on the old cap? I'm not sure whats behind it but you may be able to rip out the old led/circuitry and just run the cord through there.

Ah, yes! I can order another cap and modify that one!

 

[Jbchow]

Ah, yes! I can order another cap and modify that one!

Your response made me think Use a wooden dowel as a fake usb battery(two screws and attach the wires. That way you could use it as a pass through or with the org cap as battery powered

 

[ale3hs]

haha that's just awesome

 

[DarthVper]

Your response made me think Use a wooden dowel as a fake usb battery(two screws and attach the wires. That way you could use it as a pass through or with the org cap as battery powered

Yes, that's the right track for sure. I was actually thinking a cylinder style fuse would be perfect as a battery replacement (plus it'd be.. well.. fused!). Or would that not work for some reason? I ordered the cap and should receive it in about a week, I'll post results then!

 

[Jbchow]

Yes, that's the right track for sure. I was actually thinking a cylinder style fuse would be perfect as a battery replacement (plus it'd be.. well.. fused!). Or would that not work for some reason? I ordered the cap and should receive it in about a week, I'll post results then!

It may act like a resistor... Just make sure you know your ohms law and pick a fuse large enough to not blow during use (shoot for 2 amps or more you should be fine ;-) )

 

[ConsoleRepairGuy]

I installed a female USB connector on a 1amp cell phone charger, but my diy passthrough vapes much better when plugged directly into USB. I bet you get much better vapes with this 2amp adapter.

 

[DarthVper]

I thought USB was max 500mA? or is that just coming from a computer?

 

[Jbchow]

I thought USB was max 500mA? or is that just coming from a computer?

It depends on which version usb port you have.

Quote from wikipedia: "A unit load is defined as 100 mA in USB 2.0, and was raised to 150 mA in USB 3.0. A maximum of 5 unit loads (500 mA) can be drawn from a port in USB 2.0, which was raised to 6 (900 mA) in USB 3.0 ... In Battery Charging Specification,[40] new powering modes are added to the USB specification. A host or hub Charging Downstream Port can supply a maximum of 1.5 A when communicating at low-bandwidth or full-bandwidth, a maximum of 900 mA when communicating at high-bandwidth, ... USB 2.0 standard-A connectors are rated at 1.5 A by default. A Dedicated Charging Port can supply a maximum of 1.8 A of current at 5.25 V. A portable device can draw up to 1.8 A from a Dedicated Charging Port." (I could quote the spec but this is faster and usually easier to read. If you really want to read the spec go for it)

So it depends on if A) The computer manufacturer met the minimum of the standard or went above and beyond to allow for powering larger devices like portable drives or B) If they made a "charging port" which should mean that they do not limit the current to 500mA.

You can also stack ports to if each port can provide a maximum of 500mA then two ports in parallel could provide 1 A