Ah I see now. Will have to give that a go. Could do with the extra liquid. Does anyone know if mad vapes ships to the UK? Also where do i get me one of those giantomiser sleeves from?
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My cheap version of the ''Line"
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Ah I see now. Will have to give that a go. Could do with the extra liquid. Does anyone know if mad vapes ships to the UK? Also where do i get me one of those giantomiser sleeves from?
Cartomizers : Healthcabin Electronic Cigarettes - Wholesale and Retail--
#3 and #6 for a long line
Stainless CE3 giantomizer with pen cap for F1(ego-W) [F1(Ego-W)] - $9.00 : www.health007.net
This for the smaller line and you also need one of these for the threaded insert for the longer sleeve that doesn't come with threads for a cap.
http://www.health007.net/stainless-ce3-giantomizer-with-no-pen-cap-for-f1egow-p-464.html
I usually buy without the pen cap, since I use an ego cone for my top.
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I have vaped two tanks of juice (5ml) with my new Sugru line and am really liking the Sugru. I chain vape 4.6/5.2v and all my pv's suffer from the heat even in one day of hard use. The Sugru shows no deterioration, not even staining. It tends to stay hot and keeps the juice warm and flowing good, 70VG/30PG. So far so good..
Here is one I slapped together the other night. Cut too large of a hole so the Vape is pretty anemic.
Thanks for the great thread!
Obstinatus
Sent from my android using Tapatalk
Thanks for the great thread!
Obstinatus
Sent from my android using Tapatalk
Here is one I slapped together the other night. Cut too large of a hole so the Vape is pretty anemic.
Thanks for the great thread!
Obstinatus
Sent from my android using Tapatalk
Looks great enjoy, here is a quick fix I did on a too large air hole.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...494-my-cheap-version-line-23.html#post5291454
I used two from the link below.
eGo CE2 Giantomizer F1 with Pen Cap
I don't recommend them unless you are willing to fabricate a silicone plug that goes far enough down to cover the joint between the the plastic tube and the press fitted screw cap. Without one they leak like crazy out of the window. Because I haven't had a chance to do so I pulled the whole thing apart while I get my thoughts together on how to first fabricate the cap then create a mold for it.
eGo CE2 Giantomizer F1 with Pen Cap
I don't recommend them unless you are willing to fabricate a silicone plug that goes far enough down to cover the joint between the the plastic tube and the press fitted screw cap. Without one they leak like crazy out of the window. Because I haven't had a chance to do so I pulled the whole thing apart while I get my thoughts together on how to first fabricate the cap then create a mold for it.
See the shoulder were it gets narrow on the syringe case? LeCig Electronic Cigarette Store - 3ml Monoject Syringe
This fits up into the area you are referring to. Then I just use a mouthpiece from a regular CE2 or cartomizer and it plugs it. I drill 2 1mm holes in that silicon plug for my silver electrodes, and a 2mm hole in the center (basically make it bigger) for the wick. For the base I am using a nylon standoff, that fits inside of the syringe case, and use a round file to make it big enough to accept a 510 connection (again from my CE2).
I will post up some pics sometime this weekend on how I do my build.
eGo-W Clearomizers
One of the few places that sell the ego-w cartridge without the sleeve if you like me have already bought a lot with sleeves.
I am trying to convert these into a self contained Cheap Line that will just slip in and out of the sleeve.
eGo-W Clearomizers
One of the few places that sell the ego-w cartridge without the sleeve if you like me have already bought a lot with sleeves.
I am trying to convert these into a self contained Cheap Line that will just slip in and out of the sleeve.
Yeah, been trying this myself. Struggling to find something to seal the top half of the tube that still protrudes through the top hole. Would love to see what you come up with.
So far I have used a carved teflon rod set in with silicone, a silicon cap set with silicone, all silicone, all pot epoxy, and now have been using Sugru. The Sugru seems to be the best so far. Others have used plumbers epoxy putty. All the above work. With the Sugru I plan to mold the top so it slips into the sleeve and not permanent.
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This is how I build my DIY genisis atomizers. It makes for easy disassembly for cleaning, inspection, and repairs...
1. Tools: Dremel, small pipe cutter, soldering iron, round file, cutters, pliers, 1mm and 2.5mm drill bits
2. Supplies:
a. Shell GotVapes 2-Piece eGo Cone w/ Screw-on Cap - PEN-CLIP STYLE BLACK [gv-egoVERTICALCONE-penclipBLACK] - $7.50 : GotVapes.com, E-cigarette Supplies - Atomizers Cartomizers Mods Juice and more
b. Spacer for 510 connection (Ace hardware is where I get mine) Amazon.com: 100 Nylon Spacer Bushings .257 I.D. 1/2 O.D. Length 5/8: Automotive
c. Tank (I buy these local for 59cents and use the case, not the syringe) LeCig Electronic Cigarette Store - 3ml Monoject Syringe
d. CE2 or clearomizer of some sort - for the mouthpiece and the 510 connection
e. 18 gauge Silver Wire for the electrodes (I buy local - it is expensive) - .999 Fine Silver 18 Gauge Round Dead Soft Wire has it in 1 foot sections, you need 6".
f. Clear tube for + electrode insulation in tank. 2mm Clear Jewelry Tube and Connectors
e. Lead free silver solder
5. Threading from eGo/Riva cones (this is used in the top piece)
6. Tip from a DSE701 cartridge. or an eGo Type B drip tip.
Assembly:
1. Remove all the threading pieces from the shell. I use an old eGo batt connection to do this and the eGo cone. Pull threads from eGo cone also, I use this for the TOP. (2 of them if using the 701 tip).
2. Use pipe cutter to cut shell to desired length. Use a socket inside of the shell to prevent crushing.
3. Cut top/airchamber to desired length. Use scrawl to start and drill 1mm air hole (about 2/3 way up).
4. File nylon standoff with a round file to accept 510 connection.
5. Pull center piece out off 510 connection, solder 3" 18gauge silver wire into center on tank side, fill hole with solder.
6. Solder another 3" piece silver to outer of connection on tank side.
7. Slip center conductor into the 510 and seat it. (pay attention to the silicon insulator!!!)
8. Slide and press (a touch of epoxy to hold it) the 510 connection into standoff. (The CE2 connector has an o-ring NO LEaks!)
9. Syringe shell. Cut to length to match length of tank shell.
10. CE2 mouthpiece. Drill 2 1mm holes for electrodes. Enlarge center hole (2mm).
11. place insulator around + (center) wire. Bend wires near connection to allow space for the wick.
12. Slide standoff/510 connection into base (large hole) of syringe case / tank.
13. Slide Ce2 mouthpiece down over electrodes. Seat into tank.
14. Slide (the clear stuff shell steel shell - I remove it to make room for my new tank) your made tank down into the shell. The crimp from cutting it will seat/stop it.
15. Use your top piece to seat the threading into the tank seating the tank. Align the air hole perpendicular to electrodes.
16. Trim electrodes and bend to allow them to hold kanthal properly.
Next post... Set it up and Vape it...
ETA: DO NOT USE COPPER electrodes... You will regret it later for more then one reason!
I really am sorry about pic size. I don't use an outside photo storage, and I can't upload decent photo's here...
1. Tools: Dremel, small pipe cutter, soldering iron, round file, cutters, pliers, 1mm and 2.5mm drill bits
2. Supplies:
a. Shell GotVapes 2-Piece eGo Cone w/ Screw-on Cap - PEN-CLIP STYLE BLACK [gv-egoVERTICALCONE-penclipBLACK] - $7.50 : GotVapes.com, E-cigarette Supplies - Atomizers Cartomizers Mods Juice and more
b. Spacer for 510 connection (Ace hardware is where I get mine) Amazon.com: 100 Nylon Spacer Bushings .257 I.D. 1/2 O.D. Length 5/8: Automotive
c. Tank (I buy these local for 59cents and use the case, not the syringe) LeCig Electronic Cigarette Store - 3ml Monoject Syringe
d. CE2 or clearomizer of some sort - for the mouthpiece and the 510 connection
e. 18 gauge Silver Wire for the electrodes (I buy local - it is expensive) - .999 Fine Silver 18 Gauge Round Dead Soft Wire has it in 1 foot sections, you need 6".
f. Clear tube for + electrode insulation in tank. 2mm Clear Jewelry Tube and Connectors
e. Lead free silver solder
5. Threading from eGo/Riva cones (this is used in the top piece)
6. Tip from a DSE701 cartridge. or an eGo Type B drip tip.
Assembly:
1. Remove all the threading pieces from the shell. I use an old eGo batt connection to do this and the eGo cone. Pull threads from eGo cone also, I use this for the TOP. (2 of them if using the 701 tip).
2. Use pipe cutter to cut shell to desired length. Use a socket inside of the shell to prevent crushing.
3. Cut top/airchamber to desired length. Use scrawl to start and drill 1mm air hole (about 2/3 way up).
4. File nylon standoff with a round file to accept 510 connection.
5. Pull center piece out off 510 connection, solder 3" 18gauge silver wire into center on tank side, fill hole with solder.
6. Solder another 3" piece silver to outer of connection on tank side.
7. Slip center conductor into the 510 and seat it. (pay attention to the silicon insulator!!!)
8. Slide and press (a touch of epoxy to hold it) the 510 connection into standoff. (The CE2 connector has an o-ring NO LEaks!)
9. Syringe shell. Cut to length to match length of tank shell.
10. CE2 mouthpiece. Drill 2 1mm holes for electrodes. Enlarge center hole (2mm).
11. place insulator around + (center) wire. Bend wires near connection to allow space for the wick.
12. Slide standoff/510 connection into base (large hole) of syringe case / tank.
13. Slide Ce2 mouthpiece down over electrodes. Seat into tank.
14. Slide (the clear stuff shell steel shell - I remove it to make room for my new tank) your made tank down into the shell. The crimp from cutting it will seat/stop it.
15. Use your top piece to seat the threading into the tank seating the tank. Align the air hole perpendicular to electrodes.
16. Trim electrodes and bend to allow them to hold kanthal properly.
Next post... Set it up and Vape it...
ETA: DO NOT USE COPPER electrodes... You will regret it later for more then one reason!
I really am sorry about pic size. I don't use an outside photo storage, and I can't upload decent photo's here...
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To setup, I use this as a basis: Genisis Line - Setup - YouTube
1. Note I am using a 3/4 (thats 3 raps on one side/4 wraps visible on the other) and I am getting a 1.9Ω coil with 32g kanthal consistently. If you are getting something much lower, then suspect a short between the kanthal and your wick. Fix it by nudging your coil with a toothpick, or re-oxidizing and building a new coil. IF you are getting higher resistance, suspect your wraps around your electrodes are to loose. Regardless, PLAY with it till you get it right for YOU.
Filling is with a syringe and blunt needle.
Verify you are getting good wicking. Look if it don't wick, tilt it and see as you fire it (You should get smoke rings out of the wick end, just like a CHOO CHOO!). If it tastes like burnt ash, well that is what cigarettes taste like. Love it!!! JKing
OK no, that sucks, try tilting it while you vape it... IT is either not wicking, or there is a short. Stop PMing me on what is wrong. It only comes down to that. This thing rocks when you get it setup right for you and YOUR liquid... Then you really don't have to mess with it much.
A little ATTY PrOn
To disassemble, use mouthpiece/air chamber to pull threading out of tank shell. Push tank shell out from the 510 connection. Pull white silicon plug. Pull 510 & standoff out using a 510 battery (I use an old eGo). Clean, inspect, repair, reverse to get it back together.
1. Note I am using a 3/4 (thats 3 raps on one side/4 wraps visible on the other) and I am getting a 1.9Ω coil with 32g kanthal consistently. If you are getting something much lower, then suspect a short between the kanthal and your wick. Fix it by nudging your coil with a toothpick, or re-oxidizing and building a new coil. IF you are getting higher resistance, suspect your wraps around your electrodes are to loose. Regardless, PLAY with it till you get it right for YOU.
Filling is with a syringe and blunt needle.
Verify you are getting good wicking. Look if it don't wick, tilt it and see as you fire it (You should get smoke rings out of the wick end, just like a CHOO CHOO!). If it tastes like burnt ash, well that is what cigarettes taste like. Love it!!! JKing
OK no, that sucks, try tilting it while you vape it... IT is either not wicking, or there is a short. Stop PMing me on what is wrong. It only comes down to that. This thing rocks when you get it setup right for you and YOUR liquid... Then you really don't have to mess with it much.
A little ATTY PrOn
To disassemble, use mouthpiece/air chamber to pull threading out of tank shell. Push tank shell out from the 510 connection. Pull white silicon plug. Pull 510 & standoff out using a 510 battery (I use an old eGo). Clean, inspect, repair, reverse to get it back together.
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The 2ml fits the sleeve almost perfect and I have had no problem using the original tube.
Using this eliminates most of the work on the 510 connector. I fill the connector on the inside with epoxy to hold and cover the cutoff center post and the wires and solder connections. Since I prefer screw connecters for the coil my build on the top is different.
I really like your build and for those who want the silver wire connecters it is great. I have two original "Lines" and that is what they use.
Thanks BJ. I only used this build for a few reasons, easy disassembly (top and bottoms just slide out, but not easily), takes up the space in the top around the threading, and mostly because it was what I found that works and had on hand (old CE2s). I don't have any of the screws on hand and the silver wire works well for me.
I want to use sugru, the 510 connection and tank you are using, but it seams a little more "permanent". Though I see advantages in the way you are doing it also...
I want to use sugru, the 510 connection and tank you are using, but it seams a little more "permanent". Though I see advantages in the way you are doing it also...
BJ, I've been meaning to ask as you seem to have a decent assortment, which of these cartos has a bottom connector where the press in part (ridges but not the lip on the bottom) would press into a 13mm hole? It would simplify my builds to not have to use extra spacers on standard cartos to get them to fit. TIA
I am building one with no solder, the pos wire is pressed in between the center post and the silicone insulator in the 510 and the neg is pressed in between the outer rim of the 510 and the tube. The screw connecters I use have threads and a nut on the bottom that will secure the wires. For those who fear soldering.
Each mini pack of Sugru has enough to do at least 4 tops so I am trying to get parts for that many ready before opening a new pack. Thinking of spraying the inside of the sleeve with vegetable oil as a release agent so the sleeve will slide off when the Sugru sets.
Each mini pack of Sugru has enough to do at least 4 tops so I am trying to get parts for that many ready before opening a new pack. Thinking of spraying the inside of the sleeve with vegetable oil as a release agent so the sleeve will slide off when the Sugru sets.
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