Muldrick--Very nice looking PV--good luck with it. I am sure many will enjoy---Sun
My copper e-cig
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I read the beginning of your post, but for this new model, I quoted you below. Are you talking about the "stock" switch the flashlight comes with?
OK, I'm now considering selling this unit if people are interested and I'm currently checking with a local machine shop to manufacture specific parts.
If you are interested in purchasing one (around $50 to $60) would you be interested in the original copper unit or the updated black one.
If there is interest, I can offer the full 6 Volts and a 4 Volt unit.
I appreciate any and all feedback, ideas, suggestions and... criticism.
Thank you,
Rick
If you are interested in purchasing one (around $50 to $60) would you be interested in the original copper unit or the updated black one.
If there is interest, I can offer the full 6 Volts and a 4 Volt unit.
I appreciate any and all feedback, ideas, suggestions and... criticism.
Thank you,
Rick
Boooo! The modder forum lately has become nothing more than a place to show prototypes that end up trying to be sold.
1 critcism...Thanks
(that IS what I asked for)
Times are tough (I'm a tech at a Toyota dealer), I'd like to find ways to make some extra income.
But hey, if people aren't interested, that's fine too.
I'll put up a parts list and instructions when I get a chance, folks can also build their own.
(that IS what I asked for)Times are tough (I'm a tech at a Toyota dealer), I'd like to find ways to make some extra income.
But hey, if people aren't interested, that's fine too.
I'll put up a parts list and instructions when I get a chance, folks can also build their own.
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Wasn't directed at you personally..just a comment on the trend within the modder forums. Just doesn't seem right to build on what other people freely shared and then not contribute back when and if someone can. If everyone did it, there would be no modder forums.
The trend sucks.
Does the new black one have the protected longer batteries in it? I like the black one, I would probably try to make one and buy one also =)
Is the black one Copper also powder coated or is it a different casing (flashlight?)? Thank you, Lori B
Is the black one Copper also powder coated or is it a different casing (flashlight?)? Thank you, Lori B
Muldrick, this isn't a criticism of you, please don't take it that way.
I agree with Nuck 110%, that the trend sucks. Maybe this is just an inevitable evolution and we'll just have to accept it. Things aren't great economically and people are looking to supplement their income. It doesn't take too many posts of a new mod before someone posts "How much?" So, it seems ineviitable.
The reason some of us feel that the trend sucks is that the modder's forum was the equivalent of open source software. People collaborated and shared their ideas, everyone benefited.
MadDog created the "magnum" and never thought about selling it, he just showed everyone how he did it and created and posted a video.
NicoWolf showed everyone how to make a AA battery box mod and took tons of time to post pictures and a step by step "how to"
Our friend Nuck has posted tons of info that has benefited me and others. All of these folks and so many more openly shared their knowledge and ideas for the benefit of all members on the forum.
IMHO, there's nothing wrong with selling a product that you've made better based on your ingenuity. Where people get bent out of shape is that these mods all stem from initial ideas that were freely given to the community by many (including Nuck, who has contributed much.)
We can't MAKE everyone freely share their ideas and we can't hide our ideas if we share them. Unfortunately, this will lead to less and less folks sharing their ideas in the modder's forum because they don't want to feel exploited.
It is what it is.
John
Its a flashlight, the same or similar as the one that MadDog used for the magnum. I got them at Harbor Freight (2 for $3.99), you can get them at dealextreme as well.
John,
I also agree with Nuck (and you) 110%. But,
before this gets out of hand, I never meant anything negative by my response to Nuck. I take all responses as positive "criticism".
As I said I don't even know IF I'll sell them, just looking at responses.
Can we leave this alone please, I really hoped this thread would not go like this.
Parts only consist of the flashlight (or copper pipe and caps), 2 washers , springs, and the valve stem stuff for the atty adaptor. When I get a chance I wil post a "how to".
I also agree with Nuck (and you) 110%. But,
before this gets out of hand, I never meant anything negative by my response to Nuck. I take all responses as positive "criticism".
As I said I don't even know IF I'll sell them, just looking at responses.
Can we leave this alone please, I really hoped this thread would not go like this.
Parts only consist of the flashlight (or copper pipe and caps), 2 washers , springs, and the valve stem stuff for the atty adaptor. When I get a chance I wil post a "how to".
There is the modders forum arguably because of Trog. Trog sells the SD....so what...look at how many people have made clones of his unit and they share how they did it. If muldrick wants to sell his unit...so be it. If people really like it....I am sure many forum members will come on board and tell us exactly how they made a clone of muldricks unit.
Muldrick just make sure to sell your mod at a very reasonable price that way people won't even bother doing it themselves
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I would really like to see some details of exactly how the spring activation is made. And possibly what parts were used .
Parts from Lowes:
(1) Brass pipe nipple # A-838
(2) Pipe caps # A-819
From DealExtreme:
(2) CR2 batteries
From Autozone:
(1) Valve stem extension (I actually used 2 valve stem caps with the ends (caps) shaved off and 1 used valve stem with the rubber part shaved off.
I'm using an RN4081 atty.
(2) springs: not sure exactly what they are from...old flashlight parts I think.
(1) 3/4" (OD) washer with a smallest possible inside hole.
(1) brass coathanger (only need a 1" piece)
Tools:
Dremmel tool
Drill.
Butane flame "thrower".
1- Solder 1 spring to the inside of the bottom cap. I used the butane flame thrower here because a soldering gun won't get the brass hot enough.
2 - Drill a hole in the other cap barely big enough for the valve stem extension. Make sure it is real tight, then "shave" it by hand so the valve stem extension will slide in and out of the hole but will not be loose. (Quite time consuming)
3 - Adjust (shave) 3/4" washer to fit tightly (pressed in) into 1 end of the pipe. Push (press) it in about 1/4".
4 - Solder (flame thrower) other spring onto the top of the washer that you pushed in (in step 3)
5 - Slide a piece of coathanger into the atty connector (valve stem extension)
Screw on the top (atty) assembly with the batteries installed. Do NOT have the end (bottom) cap screwed on. This way there will be no power through the system. However, you do want to keep the batts pushed upwards to. Alternatively you can put a piece of plastic at the bottom of the battery and screw the end cap on. (again, to avoid have power or juice through the system)
Now adjust (cut/shave) the coathanger to the correct length:
Tough to explain...
I push down on the atty/coathanger adaptor until it is all the way down and the coathanger piece touches the positive post of the battery. I then release it. The top of the coathanger must be adjusted (cut/shaved) so it barely (1/2 mm) protrudes outside the atty adaptor (valve stem extension).
Once you have this setup, put a "protector" on the coathanger piece (on the inside) so it can't touch the internal spring or washer. ONLY the end of the coathanger can touch the positive post of the battery (when it is pushed down).
I just used an old piece of 8 guage wire. Cut it to desired/correct length, remove the wiring, and slide in on the coathanger.
That should be all, now test it. Unscew the end cap (batt side), remove the plastic, re-install the end cap.
Now, without an atty installed test it with a voltmeter. The body of "The Copper" is ground, the coathanger piece is positive. You should get 6 volts at the coathanger piece ONLY when you push down on it.
Much of this was trial and error. The toughest part was to get the atty adaptor (valve stem) to slide properly through the top cap. I also had to find a weaker spring. Initially I had to use The Copper with 2 hands. Now, with the weaker spring, I use my mouth to push down on the "switch".
Hope this helps.
(1) Brass pipe nipple # A-838
(2) Pipe caps # A-819
From DealExtreme:
(2) CR2 batteries
From Autozone:
(1) Valve stem extension (I actually used 2 valve stem caps with the ends (caps) shaved off and 1 used valve stem with the rubber part shaved off.
I'm using an RN4081 atty.
(2) springs: not sure exactly what they are from...old flashlight parts I think.
(1) 3/4" (OD) washer with a smallest possible inside hole.
(1) brass coathanger (only need a 1" piece)
Tools:
Dremmel tool
Drill.
Butane flame "thrower".
1- Solder 1 spring to the inside of the bottom cap. I used the butane flame thrower here because a soldering gun won't get the brass hot enough.
2 - Drill a hole in the other cap barely big enough for the valve stem extension. Make sure it is real tight, then "shave" it by hand so the valve stem extension will slide in and out of the hole but will not be loose. (Quite time consuming)
3 - Adjust (shave) 3/4" washer to fit tightly (pressed in) into 1 end of the pipe. Push (press) it in about 1/4".
4 - Solder (flame thrower) other spring onto the top of the washer that you pushed in (in step 3)
5 - Slide a piece of coathanger into the atty connector (valve stem extension)
Screw on the top (atty) assembly with the batteries installed. Do NOT have the end (bottom) cap screwed on. This way there will be no power through the system. However, you do want to keep the batts pushed upwards to. Alternatively you can put a piece of plastic at the bottom of the battery and screw the end cap on. (again, to avoid have power or juice through the system)
Now adjust (cut/shave) the coathanger to the correct length:
Tough to explain...
I push down on the atty/coathanger adaptor until it is all the way down and the coathanger piece touches the positive post of the battery. I then release it. The top of the coathanger must be adjusted (cut/shaved) so it barely (1/2 mm) protrudes outside the atty adaptor (valve stem extension).
Once you have this setup, put a "protector" on the coathanger piece (on the inside) so it can't touch the internal spring or washer. ONLY the end of the coathanger can touch the positive post of the battery (when it is pushed down).
I just used an old piece of 8 guage wire. Cut it to desired/correct length, remove the wiring, and slide in on the coathanger.
That should be all, now test it. Unscew the end cap (batt side), remove the plastic, re-install the end cap.
Now, without an atty installed test it with a voltmeter. The body of "The Copper" is ground, the coathanger piece is positive. You should get 6 volts at the coathanger piece ONLY when you push down on it.
Much of this was trial and error. The toughest part was to get the atty adaptor (valve stem) to slide properly through the top cap. I also had to find a weaker spring. Initially I had to use The Copper with 2 hands. Now, with the weaker spring, I use my mouth to push down on the "switch".
Hope this helps.
And Thank you for posting how to make your mod!
Er.. I think I am one of the people who would like to purchase one!
Er.. I think I am one of the people who would like to purchase one!
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