My DIY - DSE901 - MAGNUM POWER

[nicowolf]

If there is a short in the atomizer, it will fry the battery. You can use 3x AAA batteries in the original battery holder that came with the flashlight. It is not 5.8 volts, but it is enough to run an 801 atomizer. Regular alkaline batteries will give you more volts, but won't last very long. NiMH will give you 3.6 volts and will last about a day before needing recharged. I am quite happy with the 3.6 volts. If nothing else, it will keep you vaping until you can get the problem figured out. You should go back over every single connection with a multimeter to make sure your Magnum isn't shorting out anywhere.

When I tried 7.2 volts with my 901, I fried the atomizer - no sizzle, no vapor, nothing, just nothing and it would not work with any battery. If your 801 atomizer was weak when you hooked it up, the 6 volts may have vaporized the atty. I don't know about the battery problem. I am thinking it may have shut itself down (that lovely microchip) after meeting the bad atty.

 

[Vegatron75]

Thanks for the reply^^^. I'm surprised to hear that the bad atomizer will fry a battery. So everytime time a atomizer fails so does the battery it's connected to?
I probably won't use the magnum again until I get another atomizer. I have one good one left but would have to pull the sleeve off the bottom and grind the threads a little. My 810 battery connection is the greatest. I actually had it apart and had to use heat shrink and an oring to isolate it from the outer. I checked it w/ the meter and it's isolated.
Thanks again.

 

[breakfastchef]

Is there any way to check the 801 battery for failure? When a battery die does the led normally not work? Also when I plug the battery into the charger the green led lights up not the red{needs charge}light.

Time to get your multimeter out.

To test a battery with a pressure switch is awkward, but doable. Hold the negative meter probe agains the outside threads of the battery, touch the positive probe to the center conductor of the battery without blocking the hole, and do a quick draw on the battery. Just a little negative air pressure should fire it off. If you get a voltage reading, the battery is still providing power to the atomizer connector.

A simple way to test an atomizer is to set your meter to the continutity setting. This setting generally produces a beep sound if there is continuity freeing you from having to stare at the meter. Touch the negative probe to the threads of the connector (or to the inside of the barrel) and the positive probe to the center conductor. If you hear beep, the atty still good. If you do the same test on the ohms setting of the meter, a good atty will read something like 0.0. If you have a failing coil, the ohms will provide a value like 70.0+. I have one like this now that produces virtually no vaper, shows continuity, but has a huge load resistance.

 

[Vegatron75]

Ok, I'll give it a try. Thanks^^^

 

[Vegatron75]

Got nothing at the 801 battery w/ the multimeter. Pulled the end of the batt and the positive wire had come loose. Fixed it and put the batt back together. Problem solved for now.
I'm going to do the rs jack at radio shack for my connection on my magnum. I had to remove material from the bottom of my 801 atomizer to get connection w/ the magnum. I'm thinking the shallow depth of my modded 801 atomizer might have twisted the + batt lead on my stock battery and busted the connection in the battery. Only thing I can think of. ALthough my other stock batt did something similiar.
Thanks again for the help

 

[mottlycrw]

Hey Madog:

I tried doing a PM but it doesn't seem to be going through so I am posting this here and hope you read and reply, or if anyone else has any ideas???

I made a version of the magnum mod using a slightly different style of flashlight. There is no name on it really other than the word "LAZER", but it has 8 LED's in a circle, and the center hole has a laser light in it. (I got it at a convenience store) Anyway, some differences in the design are that 1. the on off switch is located on the side. 2. I bypassed the steps in making a momentary switch and LED for a power light (I may do that later if I get it working). 3. I used a radio shack 1/4" phone jack for the 801 connector (has a plastic sleeve and brass screw down the center. 4. I am using the 3 AAA battery pack (just using the alkaline batteries to see if i can get it working, I may go to the AAA rechargables to run at 3.6V... not sure. Anyway, got it all together, tested it with my meter (shows 4.7 volts), so I screwed on an atomizer and the vapor production was VERY bad, like half of what I get off my 801 battery. Any Ideas of what to look for or what I should do different?

 

[Vegatron75]

Hey Madog:

I tried doing a PM but it doesn't seem to be going through so I am posting this here and hope you read and reply, or if anyone else has any ideas???

I made a version of the magnum mod using a slightly different style of flashlight. There is no name on it really other than the word "LAZER", but it has 8 LED's in a circle, and the center hole has a laser light in it. (I got it at a convenience store) Anyway, some differences in the design are that 1. the on off switch is located on the side. 2. I bypassed the steps in making a momentary switch and LED for a power light (I may do that later if I get it working). 3. I used a radio shack 1/4" phone jack for the 801 connector (has a plastic sleeve and brass screw down the center. 4. I am using the 3 AAA battery pack (just using the alkaline batteries to see if i can get it working, I may go to the AAA rechargables to run at 3.6V... not sure. Anyway, got it all together, tested it with my meter (shows 4.7 volts), so I screwed on an atomizer and the vapor production was VERY bad, like half of what I get off my 801 battery. Any Ideas of what to look for or what I should do different?

I've made 2 magnums following Madog's video. I think your problem is that batteries your using. You need more power. Mine won't work well with the 3 small batteries. I was using the batts that came w/ the flashlight at first. It worked but not very well. Then I got the cr2's and it worked like it should. Shortly haha after that my atomizer fried probably because I ran it dry.
My advice would be get the real batteries and try that.

 

[mottlycrw]

Looks like I may have to try the CR-2's then. Out of curiosity though, why wouldn't the 3 AAA alkaline's power the atomizer sufficiently? I know they wouldn't last long, but after all 4.5 volts should do it shouldn't it? Or is there something about the amps, mah, watts or something else that makes the alkaline's not work well?

 

[breakfastchef]

Looks like I may have to try the CR-2's then. Out of curiosity though, why wouldn't the 3 AAA alkaline's power the atomizer sufficiently? I know they wouldn't last long, but after all 4.5 volts should do it shouldn't it? Or is there something about the amps, mah, watts or something else that makes the alkaline's not work well?

I am guessing the current from the AAA's is too low. They peak out their power very quickly and current seems to dies out quickly so they cannot heat the atomizer properly.

 

[KoS]

I am guessing the current from the AAA's is too low. They peak out their power very quickly and current seems to dies out quickly so they cannot heat the atomizer properly.

Exactly. The atty needs a stedy high current draw and alkaline batts just don't provide that. Nicads would probaly be disapointing as well. NMha are a little better. Lithum is what you want. Just try to use protected rechargables and a decent charger made for litheims. Would really suck to quit smoking analogs and reduse the fire hazard in your house just to have a battery burn it down.

 

[mottlycrw]

Thanks for the info folks!! I'll be getting those CR-2's and hopefully all will be well.

 

[Rubberjohnny]

Must admit to being puzzled by your experience with 3 AAA alkalines. Certainly a 3 pack of Duracell Ultra's will run a 901 atty a good day of heavy vaping and produce plenty of vapour. Three times 1,000mAh NiMh batteries (3.6v) will perform at least as well if not better/longer than 3.7 volt smaller capacity L-ion.I have both triple 1,000mAh AAA NiMh magnum clones and 1200mAh L-ion juice boxes. Both produce excellent quantities of vapour but the magnum clones last much longer between charges. I have tried higher voltage mods but "fried" far to many atomisers and experienced repeated bad/off taste, allmost certainly due to my inability to keep the atty wet enough at all times!!

 

[nicowolf]

Must admit to being puzzled by your experience with 3 AAA alkalines. Certainly a 3 pack of Duracell Ultra's will run a 901 atty a good day of heavy vaping and produce plenty of vapour. Three times 1,000mAh NiMh batteries (3.6v) will perform at least as well if not better/longer than 3.7 volt smaller capacity L-ion.I have both triple 1,000mAh AAA NiMh magnum clones and 1200mAh L-ion juice boxes. Both produce excellent quantities of vapour but the magnum clones last much longer between charges. I have tried higher voltage mods but "fried" far to many atomisers and experienced repeated bad/off taste, allmost certainly due to my inability to keep the atty wet enough at all times!!

Alkaline batteries have a whole different set of traits than NiMH or Li-ion. Their strengths and weaknesses are entirely different. My NiMH and Li-ion batteries have their mAh clearly printed on them. My alkalines do not. I have no way of knowing how long I can expect them to run (and to run at peak output to boot). When I originally made my Magnum, I tested with AAA alkaline batteries because they were handy at the time. They only lasted about an hour before they dropped off sharply. NiMH lasted about a day and dropped off slightly less sharply.

 

[RayJ1]

In the world of batteries, there can be a lot difference in mah capacity and internal resistance of the 1.2v rechargeable AAA & AA batteries we use. In the nimh AAA's that I use, I run the Sanyo rechargeables. There just a few dollars more that the average rechargeables but there really good. I found that out after having to build receiver packs for radio controlled models. Not only is there 1000mah capacity accurate, they deliver the current and voltage consistently throughout the discharge cycle. They seem to have a lower internal resistance. Far better than some no names out there! I rarely use AAA alkalines. The only times I have used them is in a pinch.....away from home....and needed to vape!

 

[mottlycrw]

OK, So in my ability to find CR-2 Li-Ion batteries anywhere except DX, and my anxiousness to get my Mag-mod working, I bought 3 AAA Nimh 1000 mah bats and it vaped extremely well. I vape heavy and often (that's the reason I made this thing) and found my batteries only lasted a couple of hours. I figured maybe I would recharge and try again, but same thing. I am using powerex batteries which have very good reviews. So I am thinking now that maybe I have a short somewhere in my connections, upon visual inspection, everything seems to be ok. BUT, is there any way, using a multi-meter to test for shorts? I know how to test for current obviously, but how can I find out if there is a drain somewhere in the circuit?

 

[breakfastchef]

...my anxiousness to get my Mag-mod working, I bought 3 AAA Nimh 1000 mah bats and it vaped extremely well. I vape heavy and often (that's the reason I made this thing) and found my batteries only lasted a couple of hours...

I use my 801 Magnum throughout the day and find that I sometimes will replace the CR2's at least three times. I am glad I decided to purchase four pairs of CR2 rechargeables from DX.

 

[nicowolf]

OK, So in my ability to find CR-2 Li-Ion batteries anywhere except DX, and my anxiousness to get my Mag-mod working, I bought 3 AAA Nimh 1000 mah bats and it vaped extremely well. I vape heavy and often (that's the reason I made this thing) and found my batteries only lasted a couple of hours. I figured maybe I would recharge and try again, but same thing. I am using powerex batteries which have very good reviews. So I am thinking now that maybe I have a short somewhere in my connections, upon visual inspection, everything seems to be ok. BUT, is there any way, using a multi-meter to test for shorts? I know how to test for current obviously, but how can I find out if there is a drain somewhere in the circuit?

Test your current before and after each connection and then compare the reading with the previous reading. Wherever you see a sharp decline, that is the section your short is in. For example, if the reading at the switch was much higher than the reading at the atomizer, you are losing power somewhere between the switch and the atomizer. If it drops between the two switch entrance and the switch exit, then it is your switch taking the power.

Also, when I tried 3xAAA NiMH batteries with a 801 atomizer, I did not like the resutls that well. It seemed to take forever to heat up. I am thinking the resistance in the 801 atty is higher than the 901 because I have had no such problem with the 901.

 

[EDO]

Is it possible to fit a 3.7battery in the magnum as well?.... Maybe a 14500? Would this require another adapter?

 

[breakfastchef]

Is it possible to fit a 3.7battery in the magnum as well?.... Maybe a 14500? Would this require another adapter?

Sure. You would just need to make up the space from the removed cell with a conductive material.

 

[nicowolf]

Is it possible to fit a 3.7battery in the magnum as well?.... Maybe a 14500? Would this require another adapter?

In terms of size, the 14500 will fit, but may need some adjustment. The original battery holder that came with the flashlight is the same length as the 14500. If you made your Magnum to fit that length, then you are golden, just get a PVC pipe the right size to insulate the battery from the flashlight housing. If you made your Magnum to fit the 2xCR2 batteries, you may need to shorten the length of your battery space by about 4mm, then get the right PVC pipe. You can do all of this while you are waiting for the batteries to arrive from China because the 14500 is the same physical size as a regular size AA battery. Just take a AA battery to the hardware store with you and compare it to the PVC pipe to make sure the diameter fits ok. The battery is 50mm long, so you need your pipe piece to be about 45mm long (allowing a little space at either end of battery, so it does not interfere with battery making contact with the correct contact points. The PVC pipe is just supposed to take up space so your battery does not move around so much that it loses contact and it keeps the battery from touching the flashlight housing.