well! im using it to heat up the liquid to vapor than inhale and exhale... see:
HV 4.5 ohm @ 6V = power 8 current - 1.333
LR 1.5 ohm @ 3.7V=power 9 current - 2.4
what does it mean?
It's best to express power as WATTS which you can think of as heat. Kinda like an electric space heater, the higher the watts it produces the more heat it pumps out.
Let's add one more atty.
An SLB 510 (3.2Ω) @ 5V produces
7.8 watts of power. So in
general all 3 of these examples will produce about the same amount of heat and a very similar vape.
For many about 9 watts is the sweet spot which is about double what a stock Joye e-cig produces.
Remember though these are theoretical numbers and would be more meaningful using a regulated power supply. Not all batteries are able to 'give up' the current needed in the same manner (discharge rate).
As an example using a Joye 2.1 atty on 3.7V batteries of different sizes/capacities also alters the vape. Even though Ohm's Law theoretically will give us the same WATTS you should notice a difference as you use the same atty on a 10440-> 14500-> 18650. The 10440 struggles trying to provide the 1.8A needed, the 14500 less so but the 18650 can easily provide it.
In other words we need to know the
loaded voltages to get accurate WATTS. If your 6V device is using a pair of these Tenergy's.
New Chemistry LiFePO4 Li-Ion batteries:
- Rechargeable LiFePO4 RCR123A 3.0V 750mAhBattery
- Life cycle: 2000 times (Traditional Li-ion: 500 times)
- Never explode or catch fire
- Working Voltage:3.2V and Peak Voltage: 3.6V
What are the WATTS? 2 X 3.2V = 6.4V = 19.5W (@2.1Ω)? 6V for 17W? It would appear when actual loaded (vaping) volts are determined 12.8W is correct.
Here's a test rig with 2 LiPO's firing a Joye 2.1Ω atty (sorry for not crediting the original poster).
That's a pretty severe drop from the nominal 3.2V (6.4V) rating. It may have something to do with the LiPO's discharge rating.
- Capacity: 750 mAh
- Maximum discharging rate:< 550 mA
These batts are really struggling trying to feed a Joye atty which for 6.4V wants about 3000mA (3A).
And FWIW my Joye atties always come in at 2.1-2.2Ω, that's using 2 different meters.
@ chev327
Willy are you sure it runs at 2amps from one usb? I know it says if you are only using one you get 2amps but how do they know it's not split up?
It seems to. That has been the most recommended (with the most satisfied customers) adapter out there. The unit itself, on the back, only says 1.5A, but the original distributor IQ claims it is 2A from one port.
Here's another.
USB POWER PACK
And another.
2 amp AC to USB Adapter, ideal for Passthroughs
Remember though what you see is not always what you get. This was the first one I bought... useless.
DealExtreme: $6.67 2A USB 5V AC Charger (2000mA US Plug)
But why even bother with USB connectors and flimsy high resistance cables.
Just get one of these, you can get the appropriate DC jack or just strip off the ends and hardwire it right to your switch.
5VDC Power Supply 2.4A AC Adapter for D-Link LinkSys 5V - eBay (item 390192775160 end time May-14-10 06:36:06 PDT)
Or step up a notch and get one of these. You don't really need the extra amps but it should run cooler.
Genuine ITE SWITCHING AC ADAPTOR ADS6818-1505-WDB 5V 3A - eBay (item 290372974670 end time May-21-10 05:34:24 PDT)
Here's my first MOD, using a 5.1V@2A PS I had laying around from an old SBC/2WIRE modem. Get's me to that 9W sweet spot, not quite 5V.
