My FrankenGenesis

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Quigsworth

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Thought I'd try to make a Genesis style atty, it works great (to my amazement)...it's more of a proof of concept to myself than anything, there's some mats used that aren't the best choice for vaping on long term, I just thought before I spend a bunch of time building a proper unit, can I at least get the basics right such as draw, wicking, connections, etc...

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Quigsworth

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Whatever you do find (I used the clear Smok Mega dual coil cartomizer which just perfectly fit on the 10ml bottles I had)...make sure you can get an "O" ring in there...vaping draws the juice up the wick and what doesn't get cooked off pools in the bottom of the coil chamber...not sure it's a problem with mine or if it's just a Genesis thing...do what I do, got to a dollar store and buy one of every big novelty pen they have...even if none of them work for that particular design it may make you think of something else...worst case, you have a box of big novelty pens :laugh:...lots of good modding parts for projects down the road...
 

Quigsworth

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I use it all the time, it's a little fragile so it's on my PT at my computer desk but it's been a great learning experience...

I do have an air hole Willy, my second attempt, if you see the hot glue blob on one side, that's to seal the first hole I drilled, a 1/32" if I remember but the draw was way to airy, so I heated a sewing needle and melted it through...now it's a little tight which is maybe why I'm drawing juice up...I need to find that sweet spot I guess...I also rolled the wick around a piece of stripped, solid #22 wire so it's a tube...it wicks like crazy but maybe the "drinking straw" I've essentially made could also be part of my problem, but the wick on my V3 is a tube (which is maybe why it's so intense) I roll solid wicks for my GTUS but it's a top tank...one thing I will be doing will be what I did with my V3 (which I sealed up the center CE2 air intake and drilled the vape chamber for air) and that is to put in a piece of 14 gauge (or whatever gauge will work for this set up) syringe needle aimed right at the coil so that if you lay the unit on it's side, condensate and un-spent juice doesn't leak out.

I'm getting there in this world of Genesis's...couple more years, I should at least sound like I know what I'm talking about:confused:
 
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asdaq

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It's sort of the nature of the beast. You can minimize it by running it hotter, but it will still 'erupt' after you hit it as it cools down. You have a convex shape to the bottom of the chamber which acts as juice trap too as the juice has 3 surfaces to cling to. Concave would help with draining back to the wick, but so far I haven't seen this implemented with less than a 90 degree angle between the floor and the wall giving 2 surfaces to cling to. the Line V2 has a concave bottom (albeit a mm or two of flat lip) and even a small hole to allow air back into the tank, but also might drain. I can't really cut a concave floor for beans but I've tried several things with varied success.

Pinch the top of the wick closed. If it is wicking fine it doesn't need to be open. Slimest even folds the top over, doubling the reserve above the coil.

Cut a small groove from the wick hole to the outer edge and leave it rough to encourage surface tension. Quite disappointing, as if the wick is wet there is no reason to attract liquid to it. Only starts to work as the wick starts to dry.

Insert a small length of oxidized mesh (the tip from an old wick) tucked under the negative kanthal lead along the bottom touching the actual wick and the chamber wall. This seems to work best as it does a better job of mopping up and provides an extra reservoir in the chamber. It is unsightly, but also keeps the flying end of kanthal wet.

Don't use a clear chamber. Out of sight, out of mind. I swear, I have less mess inside with an anodized alu top than plexi and there might be a heat dissipation issue, but not looking at it constantly helps a lot too. :)
 

Quigsworth

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Don't use a clear chamber. Out of sight, out of mind. I swear, I have less mess inside with an anodized alu top than plexi and there might be a heat dissipation issue, but not looking at it constantly helps a lot too. :)

Brilliant asdaq, a truly elegant solution...how did the Lockheed engineers solve the leaking fuel tanks caused by thermal expansion on the SR-71 Blackbird?...while on the ground, make sure it's in a dark hanger, sitting in a giant dripcup...as the fuel leaks out, just keep pumping back in...sometimes we just over think things...here's a couple pics of the slow improvement process...top down piece of 14 gauge syringe (a la Nicotime), slightly bent to get it away from the wall (I can now lay it down without it leaking (yay!), I also shortened the vape chamber and got rid of the Mega baby bottle tip...as you can see by the pics, the swimming pool fills even faster now...it makes a ton of flavour, decent TH but little vapor?, I also have to do my usual take a wrap off the coil, R climb as the coil/wick carbons up...it's getting better though:D

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BJ43

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Brilliant asdaq, a truly elegant solution...how did the Lockheed engineers solve the leaking fuel tanks caused by thermal expansion on the SR-71 Blackbird?...while on the ground, make sure it's in a dark hanger, sitting in a giant dripcup...as the fuel leaks out, just keep pumping back in...sometimes we just over think things...here's a couple pics of the slow improvement process...top down piece of 14 gauge syringe (a la Nicotime), slightly bent to get it away from the wall (I can now lay it down without it leaking (yay!), I also shortened the vape chamber and got rid of the Mega baby bottle tip...as you can see by the pics, the swimming pool fills even faster now...it makes a ton of flavour, decent TH but little vapor?, I also have to do my usual take a wrap off the coil, R climb as the coil/wick carbons up...it's getting better though:D

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Maybe if you keep it real hot like the SR-71's wing in supersonic flight it won't leak..
 
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