My husband's eGo exploded!

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mikeyk101

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Dec 9, 2011
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I use 3 1100mah Rivas and 3 Kgos and I also have 3 Ego 900mah VV batteries. Prior to getting my Kgos, I was charging the Rivas and 2 original Ego VV on a charger that was sold as a Riva fast USB charger. It has no identifiers on it but lists the output of DC 4.2V 420mah. It charged both the Rivas and Egos fine. Since I got my Kgo kit, I have used that to charge all 3 brands and it has worked flawlessly. It is labled a Desan charger and has an output also at DC 4.2V but at 0.2A. When I bought my Ego VV, I bought 2 and started using them right before Christmas. One of them died within a couple weeks but was replaced along with a purchase of the third. I got those about the same time as my Kgo kit.

Sorry for being so long winded but what I was getting at is that the Kgo charger does a great job charging the Egos and can be bought from one of the big Kgo vendors in Indiana for $3.99. Might be worth looking into.

edit.... 1 thing I always do is unplug the charger before screwing the battery into the charger and then plug it in. I read somewhere that you should always unplug the charger first and that is better for the batteries.
 
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FsckCigs

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Kinda echoing what others have said, it sounds to me as if either the battery was just defective from the factory, or was used with an incompatible charger [and just because the OP's batts didn't last long does not mean the charger is defective..many things can cause that...batteries which are habitually "deep-cycled" (meaning used until fully dead, and then recharged to full charge) will not last nearly as long as batts which are typically charged before they are "dead", for one example].

As has been mentioned, the term "eGo" is used generically to describe a form factor only and does NOT mean a product is compatible with any "Joye eGo" product, or with any other product labeled "eGo" for that matter. This fact can't be stressed enough.

As ecigs gain in popularity there are going to be, naturally, more and more "knockoff" manufacturers trying to get in on the market. While it's in a knockoff-maker's interests to make products which are at least "kinda" compatible with Joye's, some of them also are primarily out to make max profit which means, among other things, lower manufacturing tolerances and cheaper components. Which can (will?) lead to higher failure rates. Unfortunately, we're talking about a type of battery which DEMANDS a great amount of attention to certain safety details, and DEMANDS very low failure rates in certain components...in particular, those which prevent things like overcharging, which makes them burn and explode violently.

As more and more of these "knockoffs" become available, i think it will be imperative that vendors exercise caution in what they source and sell, and that consumers pay much closer attention to what they are buying and using. Otherwise these types of incidents will become much more frequent, and the demise of vaping as we now know it will be hastened considerably. I'm not implicating any vendor in selling defective merchandise or selling irresponsibly and i don't know any particulars of this incident, i am talking in general terms here. I'd also like to mention (before i start sounding like a Joye rep :D) that by knockoff manufacturers i'm not referring to the other "branded" eGo-type products like Tornado/Riva/Kgo etc. As far as i know these brands also employ QC and have a decent track record. I'm more referring to the save-a-few-bucks/no-idea-who-made-'em stuff which maybe has an "eGo" label on it but not an actual brand (there's also plenty of counterfeit items out there but a cautious vendor can easily avoid those). I think as e-cig manufacturer competition increases the QC and safety efforts will only decrease in the ever-relentless drive to make the stuff for less. Already, there are no real agreed-upon standards to which they must be manufactured (& in fact there is open hostility between the "big brands" and the knockoff manufacturers, not gonna see any "working together" in such an environment) and there's no entity "over there" which could/would enforce such standards even if they did exist. So, like it or not, and rightly or wrongly, the responsibility for safety falls upon the industry (and consumers) "over here".

Again, just speaking in general terms here, as these incidents, no matter how they are caused, ARE happening, which IS a problem...it's time to start looking for solutions.
 
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Switched

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I am terribly sorry for your woes and take comfort that no one was hurt and that the damage was kept to a minimum. I do not want to sound conceited here however several key elements in this discussion have been missed.

Joyetech electronic cigarette Tank System Changeable System eGo-C eGo-T 510-T e-Liquid this is what Joyetech sells, if it is not listed on their site, it is a clone a knock off, pure and simple.

Joytech does not sell a 600mAh battery - they sell 650mAh batteries. If it was a typo then fine if not, I have never heard of a 600mAh eGo battery in the 2 yrs that I have been using the product.

One of the reason Joyetech paid there vendors to sell off (sale) all non-branded JoyE product last fall was to clear their reputation which was/has been tainted by the eGo brand. BTW FC Tornado is a Joyetech product but the Riva and Kgo are not. I was offered and eGoC kit (unboxed for $5.10 minus chargers) <--- this is a bogus product as the eGo C wholesales for far more than that. If it is too good to be true, then it is.

If I am not mistaken Joytech batteries are charged at the factory to 85% and are ready to go out of the box. The kits come complete with a DC input 5V 500 mA charger with an output of DC4.2V 420mA this charger is to be used with the 650mAh batteries whilst the 450mA is designed for the 900 and 1000mAh batteries. Any respectable vendor will have / should have this information posted on their site.

There has been a couple of incidents where un-corded chargers were used to charge batteries with similar results of the OP. Their outputs are 5V 420mA. As can be seen, the specs clearly indicate the battery is going to go BOOM on the fist charge, and they have.

Just because it says eGoT on the battery, it doesn't mean it is a Joyetech battery, hence why the massive sale of unbranded product. My first two eGo kits saw me through 14 months for 2 time batts, 15 months for 1 x batt, and one that failed after 6 months. To me that is an excellent track record. BTW I never vaped LRs or DCs on them. Yes many folks claim they have been doing yadi yadi yada. The Mofset in the batts is what goes, once it goes the battery is unusable. Same thing happens when a carto or addy causes a dead short, it fries the Mofset, and battery no longer works. LRs were designed to be used on LiMn (IMR) batteries of 420mAh or better, or a LI Ion battery with similar specs to the IMR. Does the avg individual know that an eGo batt spikes to 8.6V on it's first duty cycle?

IMO abusing your batteries using LRs or DCs where one is not supposed to, creates internal resistance in the battery, or what is known as rock content (depleted material unable to further accept a charge) This internal resistance grows exponentially with time, to a point where a battery simply quits working or in some cases may actual fail with prejudice (boom). Fast charging a battery in this state (eGo charger 420mA) can result in catastrophic failure of the battery as too much current is being delivered. Should the PCB on the battery fail, you are basically charging an unprotected battery.

I cannot re-iterate enough that folks need to keep track of their charging times, and usage times - both will decrease over time. Initially it should not take 2.5hrs to charge an eGo battery, maybe, just maybe 1/2hr tops (brand new, never used batt). As internal resistance (as the battery normally depletes) charging current is decreased to meet the demands of the battery, and your batteries take longer to charge (initially). As internal resistance increases and hence less material capable of accepting a charge, charging times will shorten. This is the sign you need to be looking for new batteries.

We are quick to blame the Chinese for our failures and rightfully so, OTOH a lot of incidents could have been prevented IMMHO and can be pointed to user error, intentional or otherwise. The latter is not uncommon when newbies accept the advice from another newbie. This si the driver's manual I invite eryone to read it Basic to Advanced Battery Information from Battery University

In closing, several vendors will be stocking LiPO charging sacks. These will protect your home and you in the event of a catastrophic failure. OTOH it is up to each and everyone of us to learn how to use these cells responsibly.

To the OP once again I am glad nothing further happened and as many have stated we believe the charger to be the culprit here. Just because it worked (or may not have actually) with other batts does not mean it can with all. Always use the charger that came with the kit, do not interchange. Some chargers and batteries have their poles interchanged +/- charging normal batteries with standard poles is asking for an accident to happen.

Did I sound like a Joyetech fanboy? Yup! was it intentional? Nope! But I only buy quality product because it has served me well in the past. BTW eGoT LCD, both batts failed withint 6 months, one was four. I don't believe it to be user error with my track record - just a sub-quality product.
 
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Corley

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Possible, but more likely the charger that your ego exploded on.

It just seems you have had a very abnormal experience with 3 dead batteries and 1 exploding. Do you know if you charged the ones that died on the charger that blew up your replacement?

Only 1 of the batteries that died had been charged on the charger that this battery blew up on . The other 2 from our starter kit order that died, were always charged on my charger. His is the one that the battery exploded on. Furthermore, he has the only remaining, functioning battery from our original starter kit order, which has always been charged on the same charger that this new battery blew up on. That battery is still going strong without the slightest (obvious) issue.
 

okcodemonkey

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I am really glad everyone is ok. With all the news of batteries exploding my wife and I bought 4 of these bags for charging our devices and even our phones. Figured it was cheap insurance.

http://www.rcboca.com/parts-accessories/batteries/lipo-charging-bags

The small bag fits our 18650 charger and a small USB hub with 4 eGo batteries.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk
 

tj99959

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    I need clarification:
    Were your first kits 600mAh or 650mAh, because Joye does not make a 600mAh.
    3 out of 4 of your origional bats going bad in less than a month just screams at me! The JoyeTech bats that I am using were purchesed last April, and they are still going strong.

    As far as using the computer to charge, the only thing I plug into my computer USB port is an AC powered USB hub. This fuses everything so that a short can't wipe out the USB port or motherboard.

    Sure gald that everyone is OK, kitchen floors can be replaced, body parts can't.
     

    Rocketman

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    If we are talking eGos (or PWM clones) the charger for the eGo has over charge protection (unless it fails). The eGo may have an overcharge cutoff but if the mosfet fails (first failure mode is to short) then the charge goes straight through. In fact it appears from the circuit (I haven't confirmed this through testing yet) that even when the eGo cuts off (if it does) the mosfet has a reversed diode (by default in the way the mosfet substrate is designed) that will drop about 0.5 volts going into the battery. That means a failed charger, usually using 5 volts internally, could end up putting 4.5 volts into the eGo internal cell.
    That's a single point failure that could cause the cell to vent.

    The eGo does not have a protection board on the bottom of the cell like most 'protected' Li-ion cells.
     

    RB37

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    Just wanted to hop over to the vendor's site and see what is listed in the description of the batteries we purchased, and they list it as a Joye eGo-T. I am going to copy and paste the description here. These batteries do not have the Joye Tech marking on the end cap as our previous ones did though and only say eGo-T on the side. I did not think anything of it before, but I do now, and will forever! So here's the description...


    Joye eGo-T 900mAh Battery (w/5 click function)
    [JEGOT900B]

    *900mAh Rechargeable Joye eGo-T Manual battery(White LED) 1pc

    *5 click on/off type (Great built in pocket protection!!) click button 5 times to deactivate battery, 5 times more to reactivate

    Works with any eGo products, not just eGo-T

    Size:
    *Length:86mm or 3 and 3/8 inches
    *Diameter: 14mm

    Note:Joye eGo Mega Powered USB Charger is necessary for this battery!


    You just told us the vender whether you realize it or not... ;)
    Dragons are nice... Flys are not...

    Joye eGo-T 900mAh Battery (w/5 click function) (JEGOT900B)

    From the pic, they look like they say ego-t to me. SO I would assume they are genuine.
     

    WillyB

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    ... Make sure it is rated at at least 2 amps. They're cheap.
    Why 2A? These chargers typically output 420mA. I would imagine this choice was partly made so as to work with a computers USB native 500mA output and the AC adapters that they supply which are also 500mA. There is no need to input 2A to drive them and may actually be dangerous in the case of a charger malfunction.

    ... Most 3.7v rechargeable batteries for mods come off the charger at around 4.23v.
    That is simply not true, some may, but I would consider a true consistent 4.3V indicative of a poor/defective charger. Hopefully it's your meter that is off.




    As far as using a computer's USB port.

    From Intel's USB spec:

    2.4. Circuit Protection

    For over current protection, USB specification requires that an over current protection device be used in the design of the USB power delivery circuitry. A good motherboard design will have some sort of safety system so as to prevent user, motherboard, and peripheral damage. The purpose of the over current protection device is to limit the amount of current the USB port can draw, such as in a short circuit situation. It should not, however be design to function as a current cop when the downstream device power consumption reaches near the allowable port limits given its declared power requirement. The sizing of the over current protection device should be chosen mainly to protect user safety and against property damage.

    2.4.1. Polymeric Positive Temperature Coefficient (PPTC)

    PPTC devices (commonly known as polyfuses) are one solution commonly used to meet USB safety requirements

    USB_fuse.jpg


    While I'm sure there have been USB/motherboard problems I really don't believe the problem is nearly as great as the anecdotal reports and dire warnings that are oft repeated. There are many cheap China made things we plug into them, that somehow these ecig chargers are unique in their ability to ruin MOBOs doesn't ring true for me.
     

    tmcase

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    Why 2A? These chargers typically output 420mA. I would imagine this choice was partly made so as to work with a computers USB native 500mA output and the AC adapters that they supply which are also 500mA. There is no need to input 2A to drive them and may actually be dangerous in the case of a charger malfunction.


    That is simply not true, some may, but I would consider a true consistent 4.3V indicative of a poor/defective charger. Hopefully it's your meter that is off.




    As far as using a computer's USB port.

    From Intel's USB spec:



    USB_fuse.jpg


    While I'm sure there have been USB/motherboard problems I really don't believe the problem is nearly as great as the anecdotal reports and dire warnings that are oft repeated. There are many cheap China made things we plug into them, that somehow these ecig chargers are unique in their ability to ruin MOBOs doesn't ring true for me.

    If you doubt anything I've said here you might do some research here on the forum. You'll find many post stating the same thing about a 2amp USB adapter and talk about frying motherboards or power supplies. A typical PC USB port output is only around .5amp which isn't enough to charge a PV.

    I don't know what you're talking about when you say that a consistent 4.3v output is indicative of a poor/defective charger. I've been using the same egos and same charger for almost a yr with a consistent 4.23v output off the charger. There is nothing wrong with my charger or my multimeter. If you want to take the chance and charge your egos with your PC then fine but I won't recommend it to anyone and if you do some reading you'll find that many others agree. I don't want to get into a battle over this so if you doubt me then check with Rolygate.
     

    hairball

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