My RBA Mods & Other Reo Related Mods

Status
Not open for further replies.

darkzero

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 28, 2013
1,106
3,372
SoCal
Try moving your air hole so its off center a little this will increase the throat hit . Raising the air inlet above the coil will do the same thing . Move it to far and it will give you to much throat hit .

Thanks Robert, I did try some things similar a few days ago but didn't notice much difference in TH, mainly only the amount of vape. I'll play around with it some more.


Well, some of them are sweet. It's a bit of hit and miss. The one I had was great, until the negative post got wobbly and fell off :(

Hey, Darkzero, where did you buy yours?

I got mine from SunVapors since they offered quanitity discounts & were closer to me. The SS RDA clones have SS bases & the ones with the AL caps have brass bases. The posts on both versions are brass. SunVapers does mention the ground post can move & say to use pliers to hold it in place if needed.

On my first SS RDA mod I scratched up the post when removing it. At first I did not realize it was just a press fit but I suspected that by their description about the pliers. After machining the juice well the post was pretty loose because the juice well is half way into the post's hole. I used pliers with sharp serated teeth on them & pinched the end of the post around the entire diameter. This created a sort of knurling which made the fit tighter, used the arbor press to press it back in. The post on this one is still a bit wobby but it stays in place & does not rotate when tightening the screw pretty snug.

On the BR/AL version the ground post is also probably pressed in but on the one I'm using now it doesn't have even a slightest bit hint of being loose. And I even rotated the post to line up the coil holes to where I wanted. This time I used a vacuum cap to protect the post from damage & it took a decent amount of force to rotate it with pliers. Give the pliers trick a try, you could also add a bit of threadlock on it before pressing it back in but not too much. As long as it's a tight press fit, it should disperse any excess threadlock enough where the post will still make sufficient electrical contact with the base. Just be sure to clean off any left over residue of threadlocker after giving it sufficinet time to dry.
 

Commie

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 28, 2012
1,427
2,012
Michigan
Thank you, Darkzero!

That's where I got mine, maybe I was just unlucky or less gentle than I should have been.

I don't really have tools, so I had to use the arm press and my fat self to push the center pin out. The negative post ended up breaking off easily, but I think it might be related to just bad luck.

I'll have to buy a couple more and try it again.

By the way, I bought the "SS" one, but the cap is aluminum on it. Base is steel though, like you said.
 

darkzero

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 28, 2013
1,106
3,372
SoCal
Thank you, Darkzero!

That's where I got mine, maybe I was just unlucky or less gentle than I should have been.

I don't really have tools, so I had to use the arm press and my fat self to push the center pin out. The negative post ended up breaking off easily, but I think it might be related to just bad luck.

I'll have to buy a couple more and try it again.

By the way, I bought the "SS" one, but the cap is aluminum on it. Base is steel though, like you said.

Damn, that sucks! If I had a M2 tap I could make you a new post but they are cheap enough to not even bother.

These are the SS RDA clones one I got. My caps are definitely SS, the base, cap, & drip tip are all the same material. I can tell by the weight, the appearance, & the way it machines.

IMHO the BR/AL version is made with slightly better quality in the base except the orings are a bit loose on mine so I replaced them. I really like the SS, I just wish the SS version had the same quality, for the base that is. I don't believe they are made by the same manufacturer. Might be part of the reason for the price similarities. I suppose you could just use the SS cap on the BR base version if you also like the SS.
 
Last edited:

Commie

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 28, 2012
1,427
2,012
Michigan
Wow, the plot thickens.

The one I had, I bought exactly the same as the SS clone you listed. The URL, price and all matches. Mine has "SS colored" aluminum cap. At least I'm fairly certain that it's aluminum, since I used my pocket knife to make the air hole bigger :) I have a decent knife, but I doubt I could dig steel with it quite so well.

It does sound reassuring that most of them work. I think mine was the fluke. Gonna order a few of each and play with them.
 

darkzero

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 28, 2013
1,106
3,372
SoCal
I can't ever leave well enough alone. But I will say that the Reo itself I have no desire to do anything to it, it simply doesn't need to be touched.


Ok, so I lied. I thought about making my own button cap but I decided to just pick one up from Rob a little while back. They're very inexpensive & look comfortable. I may try making my own later one day.

But I only picked up one button cap & use it on the Grand. Because of the smaller size of my Mini I figured I would like the Mini better without a button cover & I do. The Mini is what I EDC & goes with me everytwhere. But something was missing so I.......


Img_8486_zpsb44108e3.jpg




Beveled the top & added two round grooves. Not much of a mod, which is good, as I still feel a REO does not need to be modded for functionality. Came out a bit different than what I envisioned but I'm pretty happy with it & it feels nice. :D

Unexpectedly the bottom groove catches on a burr or something so it now has a click type feel to it. I was going to take it apart again to fix the issue but now I like it. Lucky for me the slight click happens right before it fires so it has a nice conventional switch feel & the firing pin has plenty of spring to push the button back up without any chance of snagging.


Img_3788_zpsffd2ba56.jpg


Img_3783_zps44084ba4.jpg


Img_3794_zpsc04ae9f7.jpg
 

darkzero

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 28, 2013
1,106
3,372
SoCal
Since I had it apart, figured I might as well build a new coil for it. This time I used twisted 32 awg @ 1.1Ω with Ekowool. Nice vapor & tastes goood!

Some day I'll try a micro coil but for now I like how much juice my setups hold. I can take at least 6 drags in a row without a hint of going dry. Sometimes I find that I'm squonking much to soon but even though it still vapes on even if flooded.


Img_3778_zps8d4dc055.jpg




On the Grand 28 awg @ 1.2Ω with Ekowool
Img_3749_zps1ff9ca5e.jpg
 
Last edited:

darkzero

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 28, 2013
1,106
3,372
SoCal
Thanks but that's what I say looking all your guy's coils!

I wasn't that happy with the way the twisted coil came out, originally I had two more wraps on it & it was tighter than the second pic but the resistance was too high. It got beat up a little after I shortened it & spread out the coils but it vapes fine so I'll just use it until it starts getting gunked up a bit.
 

super_X_drifter

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Oct 4, 2012
10,635
45,119
Somewhere out there
www.youtube.com
How I envy you all with mechanical abilities. These are great. In fact great photography skills also.

Zero, your REO colors / finishes look awesome. + 1 on what Honigschmidt said - you got mad photo skillz bro. I don't.

But I can spell like a motherf__ker. :)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread