my voltage drops and current tests on my mech mod

[gmb225]

so i was messin around with my multimeter today and was surprized to find out my dinkat inspire ss telescoping mech mod only has about 4.5amps flowing thru it on a .7ohm dual coil built nimbus. ive been gettin about a .4v drop with an aw imr 18490 batt. so i thought i was gettin about 7amps. to drop that much current the circuit must have a total resistance of .98ohms. which means the mod itself has a .28ohm resistance if total resistance is .98ohms while a .7ohm load is attached. so the mech mod is acting like another resistor in series. if i chain vape it say 5 or 6 good hits the mod gets very warm at the top so i guess that where the resistance mostly is. for 80 bucks i cant say this mod does a real good job. batteries r done at 3.5v 3hrs of vaping. ive done a lot of research on batteries and the aw imr 18650 1600mah win hands down so i plan to order them friday. wish i had the money to buy a better mech mod right now.

 

[Thrasher]

SS is pretty much near the bottom for effective transfer of current. while it makes a good strong mod its not the best for applying voltage.

 

[Jaiofspam]

you could always buy a cheap sentinel clone for better conductivity

 

[gmb225]

you could always buy a cheap sentinel clone for better conductivity

yea i was reading a thread on that and went to fasttechs website. i might wind up tryin it. i see the sentinel id get the all brass dont know how aluminum conduct and someone in that thread said his 510 connector was stripped out. there was another mod tvs something it looks a bit to flashy for my taste and feedback complained of finish problems, but for 18 bucks who can complain? i wonder what kind of voltage drops r in these mods?

 

[Thrasher]

well alum is much better then ss and brass is tops.

 

[Jaiofspam]

yea i was reading a thread on that and went to fasttechs website. i might wind up tryin it. i see the sentinel id get the all brass dont know how aluminum conduct and someone in that thread said his 510 connector was stripped out. there was another mod tvs something it looks a bit to flashy for my taste and feedback complained of finish problems, but for 18 bucks who can complain? i wonder what kind of voltage drops r in these mods?

the threads can be easily stripped out on both the aluminum and brass one but if you mount an rda/rba flush and/or dont swap out the tanks often its nothing to worry about. you could also get an airflow controller to prolong the life of the threads .

 

[CrazyIvan]

well alum is much better then ss and brass is tops.

Actually, aluminum is twice as conductive as brass.

 

[gmb225]

so the aluminum would be better? im lookin on vaportekusa.com at the private v2 clone. it would be a preorder deal...might wind up waitin a good month or more to get it. dont know what do u guys think? its all aluminum and brass.

 

[Thrasher]

Actually, aluminum is twice as conductive as brass.

correct i was confusing an article i read recently comparing ss alum and Ti

 

[st0nedpenguin]

SS is pretty much near the bottom for effective transfer of current. while it makes a good strong mod its not the best for applying voltage.

It really doesn't matter all that much with the sheer volume of metal in a PV body.

 

[CrazyIvan]

It really doesn't matter all that much with the sheer volume of metal in a PV body.

Bingo, 100% agree. OP, don't go hunting for other metals thinking they will be better. The conductivity of the metals doesn't make that much difference. We're talking large surfaces and short distances, which makes SS just as good as copper.

0.4V "under load voltage drop" is completely normal with low ohm coils. Voltage drop under load is widely misused/abused by many to show differences in mod efficiencies, which is completely misguided. Under load drop has more to do with your battery size/type, atomizer type/setup than it does with your mod efficiency. I would hate for you to buy an all copper mod just to be met with the same numbers (which would undoubtedly happen).

 

[Alexander Mundy]

so i was messin around with my multimeter today and was surprized to find out my dinkat inspire ss telescoping mech mod only has about 4.5amps flowing thru it on a .7ohm dual coil built nimbus. ive been gettin about a .4v drop with an aw imr 18490 batt. so i thought i was gettin about 7amps. to drop that much current the circuit must have a total resistance of .98ohms. which means the mod itself has a .28ohm resistance if total resistance is .98ohms while a .7ohm load is attached. so the mech mod is acting like another resistor in series. if i chain vape it say 5 or 6 good hits the mod gets very warm at the top so i guess that where the resistance mostly is. for 80 bucks i cant say this mod does a real good job. batteries r done at 3.5v 3hrs of vaping. ive done a lot of research on batteries and the aw imr 18650 1600mah win hands down so i plan to order them friday. wish i had the money to buy a better mech mod right now.

There might be some things you are not taking into consideration here.
First, the battery itself is part of that voltage drop.
Every battery has an internal resistance, some more some less.
This internal resistance will also vary with the current it is loaded with.
The one I have measured is the AW18350.
Mine have an average of .2V drop freshly charged.
4.2V no load and 4.0V with a 3 amp load.
(I am assuming you took an actual current measurement or the next 2 will not apply)
The other is your multimeter.
All multimeters will have a voltage drop themselves.
On the amperage setting they use an internal resistance and measure the voltage across it to determine current.
Once again some more than others.
The multimeter leads will also have a voltage drop.

As stated by others, the PV body has enough cross section that it is not going to matter very much if it is SS, brass, or aluminum.
The majority of the voltage drop in most PV's comes from the switch, the battery spring, and the connector.

Do get the AW batteries as they are considered by most to be the safest and best all around batteries for a mechanical PV.

 

[gmb225]

yea ordering some aw imr 18650 1600mah friday. i took the current measurment by taking the bottom cap off mod then pressing meters pos lead to batt negative pushing the battery up in the tube firmly then the neg lead of meter to the switch. just for fun today i put a cheap dishy 18650 in it and tested vol across coils and only got 3.1v! batt was fully charged. just goes to show u what a cheap batt can do. these batteries came with my tesla. they lasted a full day of heavy vaping in the tesla. im gonna hold my money till i can get my hands on a nemesis! vids on youtube show that monster has a .1v drop its a beast!

 

[nz1001]

There might be some things you are not taking into consideration here.
First, the battery itself is part of that voltage drop.
Every battery has an internal resistance, some more some less.
This internal resistance will also vary with the current it is loaded with.
The one I have measured is the AW18350.
Mine have an average of .2V drop freshly charged.
4.2V no load and 4.0V with a 3 amp load.
(I am assuming you took an actual current measurement or the next 2 will not apply)
The other is your multimeter.
All multimeters will have a voltage drop themselves.
On the amperage setting they use an internal resistance and measure the voltage across it to determine current.
Once again some more than others.
The multimeter leads will also have a voltage drop.

As stated by others, the PV body has enough cross section that it is not going to matter very much if it is SS, brass, or aluminum.
The majority of the voltage drop in most PV's comes from the switch, the battery spring, and the connector.

Do get the AW batteries as they are considered by most to be the safest and best all around batteries for a mechanical PV.

very nice.

... and threads on the tubes. to my experience, SS threads get hot often, not just mechanical but also vv/vw mods.
nouaox/ox-guard is a must.