Need Advice for Stepping into Mechanical Mod

[JackyBBX]

Hey Vapers !
I've been vaping with those normal Vape pens for years now, and Mechanical Mods and Rebuildable Atomizer attracts me alot haha !
So if anyone can help me with getting my first kit?
I'm planning to get those standard K100 or K101 and 3 post rda
isit ok for first time Mech mod ?
Also is there a big differences between Mechanical Mods ?
Thanks

 

[xcrazydx]

Battery safety is what you need to read about.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

 

[Nate Rager]

To step into any mechanical mods, before you even look into battery safety you are gonna have to get yourself one of these.

 

[EGboy]

I'm new myself so I searched for battery safety.
I got the link to the thread but it seems new members aren't allowed to post links*.
Thread title is: **Sub-Ohm Vaping** Discussion, Safety, Battery Info, & Warnings

 

[Nate Rager]

I'm new myself so I searched for battery safety.
I got the link to the thread but it seems new members aren't allowed to post links*.
Thread title is: **Sub-Ohm Vaping** Discussion, Safety, Battery Info, & Warnings

here is the link you are referring to.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-discussion-safety-battery-info-warnings.html

 

[Nate Rager]

Hey Vapers !
I've been vaping with those normal Vape pens for years now, and Mechanical Mods and Rebuildable Atomizer attracts me alot haha !
So if anyone can help me with getting my first kit?
I'm planning to get those standard K100 or K101 and 3 post RDA
isit ok for first time Mech Mod ?
Also is there a big differences between Mechanical Mods ?
Thanks

Now that I had my fun with the image above I'll actually answer your question to the best of my ability.

Before you look into getting a mechanical mod you need to ask yourself why you want one.
Reliability?
Style?
Simplicity?
Like to tinker?

If those are all high on your list then a mech mod is probably for you.

These are not beginner devices though. I am not saying if you are a noob you shouldn't get one I am saying make sure you do your homework. Learn about battery safety. Then learn about it again. Don't become a statistic.

The k100 and k101 are decent low end mods. They are reliable and perform well. I don't really like the fire button much. The lock ring takes a billion turns to lock and unlock and the throw on the switch is from here to timbuktu. The spring is also crazy stiff for my liking. The plus side is they will not fire unlocked when you set them down. Most of my mods I either have to lock them or lay them on their sides to keep them from firing when not in use.

The top of the k100 is press fit. Sometimes it will have the tendancy to pop off if you over tighten the telescoping portion of the mod. That can get a bit annoying.

My first mech mod was a magneto and it performs well. The switch is magnetic so there is no spring to wear out or fail. It is also more pocket friendly than the kamry mods with a more streamlined shape. But really, that just boils down to personal preference, which is the case with most mech mods.

Now for the difference in mech mods.....

In aesthetics there is a world of difference in various designs, but that doesn't really effect performance.
Performance wise, honestly, they are all about the same. They are about as simple as it gets. Metal on one end of the battery, metal on the other end being a switch, complete the circuit, vapor.

The biggest difference is in materials used and thread quality. There is a massive difference in the thread quality when I compare my magneto to my authentic Chi You. The Chi comes out way on top. Is there a difference in the vape quality? Not really. A full battery is a full battery is a full battery.

There is some voltage drop difference between the two mods, but honestly it is so small that it is not even worth mentioning.

Where the high end stuff shines is for the collectors like me. We like them because they are collectible. If you are not going to collect them and just want a good vape, stick to the lower end mech mods. You probably wont be disappointed.

 

[edyle]

Hey Vapers !
I've been vaping with those normal Vape pens for years now, and Mechanical Mods and Rebuildable Atomizer attracts me alot haha !
So if anyone can help me with getting my first kit?
I'm planning to get those standard K100 or K101 and 3 post RDA
isit ok for first time Mech Mod ?
Also is there a big differences between Mechanical Mods ?
Thanks

You do not need to use an mech mod for an RDA.
Get the RDA.
Get a regulated mod.
Maybe later on you might need a mech but not necessarily at the start.

 

[Nate Rager]

Let me add one more thing after reading edyle's post.

They are right, you don't need a mech mod. The real advantage to mech mods is that you can fire below the ohm restrictions of most regulated mods. So if you want to build a .7 ohm coil you'll either need to go mechanical or expensive regulated. A regulated mod will fire an RBA as long as you build it within the mods limits.

With a mech mod you change your vape by changing your coil. With a regulated mod you change your vape by pushing a button.

 

[MrPlink]

Not trying to sound like a super awesome cool guy (which I am btw, ask anybody that knows me) but I was only into my vaping career for 2 or 3 weeks when I got fed up with clearos and egos and said screw it and got a mech with a rebuildable atty.

But I should mention

- I am a gear head that is mechanically inclined.
- I love to obsessively research anything I am interested in
- though I am not a pro, I already had a fundamental understanding of electronics

but that aside with a little reading or research anyone can start with one.

Back to your questions

No, not all mechs are the same.
There are the more obvious difference, telescoping body, segmented body or fixed tube. Bottom or side button. Spring or magnetic button. Type of locking mechanism for the firing button. Lots of plusses and minuses here, up to personal preference really.

The big thing is some have HUGE voltage drop and some have little to none. Some of the really crappy clones (and even some originals I would wager) will drop almost a full volt due to a bad design/materials, which means that even on a full battery they will perform poorly and will make an Ego twist seem like a powerhouse.

As mentioned if you want to get into the subohm game then there are plenty of VV/VW devices that can do it now BUT none will be as simple and rugged as a good mech. Most wont look as good either (Zna30 noted as an exception) and unless you get into buying high end original designer mechs the advanced regulated mods will cost MUCH more.

 

[Completely Average]

You do not need to use an mech mod for an RDA.
Get the RDA.
Get a regulated mod.
Maybe later on you might need a mech but not necessarily at the start.

I totally disagree.

If you're going to get into RDA/RBAs then it's far better to get a mech mod and a Kick module than to waste the money on a regulated mod knowing full well that within a month or two you're going to buy the mech mod anyways. It's a waste of money.

You can get a real Evolv Kick module for $17. That's far cheaper than any regulated mod out there, and will let your mech mod run regulated and add some layer of safety while you learn the basics. Then, if/when you're ready to run unregulated you simply remove the Kick.

A regulated mod plus a mech mod clone can easily add up to $70+. The same mech mod clone with a Kick would be about $45 and it will work just as well. That saves you $35 which you could spend on an RBA, like a Kayfun.

 

[truskme]

honestly id progress to a variable voltage device before going into mechs to really understand about batteries and what all of it means. the world of mechs might look enticing from a newbies point of view, but there's a lot of maintenance and safety involved, especially if your gonna be doing rebuildables. progression to a peak is healthy in the vape game, theres no need to rush and rob yourself the joy of experiencing every step vaping has to offer. thats my two cents

 

[rhean]

Hey Vapers !
I've been vaping with those normal Vape pens for years now, and Mechanical Mods and Rebuildable Atomizer attracts me alot haha !
So if anyone can help me with getting my first kit?
I'm planning to get those standard K100 or K101 and 3 post RDA
isit ok for first time Mech Mod ?
Also is there a big differences between Mechanical Mods ?
Thanks

I've never used those, but folks here love them. As far as differences between mech mods: I've used a brass Sentinel m16 clone, and a stainless steel Launcher v2 clone.

Stuff to consider: threads. Not all mods have great threads. Those two, however, do, and the K100, 101 must, as well, going by recommendations. Stainless steel and solid brass are far more durable than, say, aluminum.

Buttons: Sentinel, like many other mods, uses a lock ring to prevent accidental firing. The Launcher has a recessed button, which means no lock ring mess with. I find the recessed button very practical; in fact, I don't understand why all mods are not built that way. Locking ring is a PITA, especially when you're hiking and the thing is in your pocket.

The 510 connection: Sentinel has a floating connection, which means every atty will fit with no fuss. The Launcher has an adjustable 510 connection, which means you'll need to adjust the contact per atty. Both are easy, but the floating connection is more convenient.

Contacts: The m16 has brass contacts, while the Launcher has copper contacts. I prefer the copper contacts; there's a wee bit of lagtime when you fire the Sentinel. There's none with the Launcher.

Kick: Some mods will allow you to use a kick with 18650 batteries, while some don't. Definitely research that if you want a kick.

Re safety: Tons of info here and elsewhere. Some places I found helpful:

General info on batteries, safety, ohm's law: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...eeper-understanding-mod-batteries-part-i.html

General info on battery specs with amp calculator: Battery mAh & C Rating = amp Calculator

Ohm's Law calculator: Ohm's law | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

Please get name brand batteries and a good charger, and know your specs. Also get a decent multimeter.

Re rba/rda: I love rdas. They're simple and fun to build, and very simple to maintain and use. The flavor is out of this world. You do need to keep dripping, though. This is subjective, but my favorite rda at the moment is the Ehpro Helios clone. The flavor is great, the adjustable air is great, and the split positive post makes it very easy to build. Patriot is fun, too, and easy to build with a wide drip well. You might need to enlarge the airhole, however.

Tons of tutorials on rebuilding on youtube and here. A dedicated ohm meter is not a necessity, but it does make things more convenient.

I think you'll really enjoy this

 

[Grim_Reefer]

Whats up guys!
So Im kind of in the same situation. Id like to pick up a mech but Im unsure.
Of course, the look attracts me. SHINEY. Durablity, I had 1 ego break when it dropped while I was walking and 2 egos have fried circuitry (tried to check the volts on my ohm and volt checker) Also enjoy the fact I can just change batteries instead of charging my entire device. Kinda scared by the warnings of venting and exploding batteries but of course, if I stick to battery safety I should be okay but also worried about voltage drop.
So Ive got a few egos like everybody else, upgraded to an MVP V2. Great first mod to start out with. Great battery life. Im really enjoying the taste and reliablity from cartos+tanks. Recently picked up an Igo-W to practise coiling but Im sticking to coils 1.5-2.2 (high enough for the MVP to read).
Dont really have an interest in subohming, I just picked up an RDA to cut down on costs of buying cartos. I shouldnt really have a problem with batteries if im just using LR boges and reasonable coiling, right?

 

[supertrunker]

right. It's only an issue when you start to push batteries OR you don't check you coils.

Because a mechanical mod will fire anything. It lacks all the safety features you are used to, so you assume that role.

T

 

[edyle]

Whats up guys!
So Im kind of in the same situation. Id like to pick up a mech but Im unsure.
Of course, the look attracts me. SHINEY. Durablity, I had 1 ego break when it dropped while I was walking and 2 egos have fried circuitry (tried to check the volts on my ohm and volt checker) Also enjoy the fact I can just change batteries instead of charging my entire device. Kinda scared by the warnings of venting and exploding batteries but of course, if I stick to battery safety I should be okay but also worried about voltage drop.
So Ive got a few egos like everybody else, upgraded to an MVP V2. Great first mod to start out with. Great battery life. Im really enjoying the taste and reliablity from cartos+tanks. Recently picked up an Igo-W to practise coiling but Im sticking to coils 1.5-2.2 (high enough for the MVP to read).
Dont really have an interest in subohming, I just picked up an RDA to cut down on costs of buying cartos. I shouldnt really have a problem with batteries if im just using LR boges and reasonable coiling, right?

You sure it's an unregulated mech you want? Maybe it's something more like a Provari that you would be interested in; SHINY, Durability, solid reputable build quality, warranty.


On the other hand a simple cheap mech is a good thing to have for backup in case your electronic gizmo fails.

 

[Grim_Reefer]

Thanks for the help guys! I think Ill be going for a Zmax v3 or possibly a Magneto with a kick.
Going with logics, if the board in the zmax fries, the whole thing is dead. If the kick dies, I can just replace it. Provari isnt in my vape budget yet.
Its nice to treat yourself with the money saved from not smoking cigarettes

 

[Completely Average]

I use a mech mod with a Kick2 every day, as does my wife. They are our primary PVs. They've been more reliable than any VV/VW mod that I've had, they're smaller than the VV/VW mods, and if I ever get the urge I can remove the Kick in about 30 seconds and subohm if I want.

A mech mod with a Kick/Kick2 is more versatile than any VV/VW mod, very reliable, and looks great. Hindsight being 20/20 I wish I never would have wasted the more than $200 I've spent on VV/VW mods that I never use anymore and aren't worth $20 in resale value.

And if you know that you're going to move towards RBAs and possibly subohm in the future why waste money buying a VV/VW mod that won't let you do it? Remember, it's the coil rebuilding that's important in regards to safety, the mod is just a battery.

 

[Yeug]

If you want a 3 post RBA, make sure to get a resistance or ohm checker.

Get a Sony VCT4 or 5 battery (at least 2) note that this is an 18650 battery
Choose a 3 post RBA
Choose a mech mod - make sure can fit 18650 batteries

Dont go below 0.3 ohms on your build

Vape away!

Once you get to know more you can then go to smaller mechs that takes smaller batteries etc.

You just need to know ohms law or just google a ohms law calculator and make sure the amp doesnt go over the amp capacity of the battery your using.

 

[xcrazydx]

A mechanical is a good backup and toy to play around with but it's not suitable for primary use. They vape well for an hour or so and then fall on their face as soon as the battery starts to drain.

Get a good regulated device like a provari. Don't bother with clones, you want to support the original designer and manufacturer not some crap China copy. We need to support the guys putting in the time and money to design and produce original, high quality devices. Without them we'll be stuck with junk China stuff. How would it make you feel if you put in all the time and money to make something nice and someone ripped you off, made a copy out of junk material and sold it for cheap?

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[Grim_Reefer]

I pulled the trigger yesterday on the Zmax V3 from Canvape. I figure ill start off with a regulated device, learn battery safety and then ill maybe pick up a mech. Just a cheap one from failtech. I also plan to make some DIY e-pipe mods this summer as well

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