Need Help Deciding on a MOD
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Depends on the tank and the available coils for it. If I'm using my pro tank 1 (only use to conserve juice) 3.2-3.6V, on my iclear 30 3.2-3.8V and on my nautilus 3.2-3.6V to keep the burnt taste away.
Would I have to carry a voltage reader if out of the house?
I want to go mechanical, because I want to eventually go sub ohm, and don't want to try to drip with a VV/VW MOD.
Alright. I'm gonna try to break this down further for you, I was tired last night so typing everything out wasn't gonna happen.
For a mechanical mod that you will be using specifically for a 1.5-2.5 ohm atomizer on, you will get absolutely no benefit of a mech mod. If you do get into rebuildables to lower the ohms a mechanical is absolutely the way to go. You don't need to carry a volt meter with you, you don't need a kick. But you do need some way to check your resistance. They sell ohm readers with a volt meter attached which are perfect for rebuilding. 2 things come out of checking your resistance; your desired ohms and ensuring you don't have a short. Once you've gotten that down you're good to go for wicking and vaping.
I don't feel like a kick is necessary under most circumstances when getting into sub ohms. They limit you to watts and if you go sub ohm it's a useless piece of 40 dollar electronics. For that money you can get a cheapo back up VV device that will check your resistance, check for shorts, and even fire if it's not too low. Furthermore for the price of a mech mod and a fuse you can get a really nice VV setup. If you wanted the extra safety get a fuse.
Battery safety is the name of the game when it comes to mech mods. There are NO fail-safes made into the the device to protect you from turning your fancy stainless steel mod into a pipe bomb. Read, re-read, and watch videos on battery safety. Understand the basics of everything before you take the plunge into a potentially hazardous hobby.
For a mechanical mod that you will be using specifically for a 1.5-2.5 ohm atomizer on, you will get absolutely no benefit of a mech mod. If you do get into rebuildables to lower the ohms a mechanical is absolutely the way to go. You don't need to carry a volt meter with you, you don't need a kick. But you do need some way to check your resistance. They sell ohm readers with a volt meter attached which are perfect for rebuilding. 2 things come out of checking your resistance; your desired ohms and ensuring you don't have a short. Once you've gotten that down you're good to go for wicking and vaping.
I don't feel like a kick is necessary under most circumstances when getting into sub ohms. They limit you to watts and if you go sub ohm it's a useless piece of 40 dollar electronics. For that money you can get a cheapo back up VV device that will check your resistance, check for shorts, and even fire if it's not too low. Furthermore for the price of a mech mod and a fuse you can get a really nice VV setup. If you wanted the extra safety get a fuse.
Battery safety is the name of the game when it comes to mech mods. There are NO fail-safes made into the the device to protect you from turning your fancy stainless steel mod into a pipe bomb. Read, re-read, and watch videos on battery safety. Understand the basics of everything before you take the plunge into a potentially hazardous hobby.
From experience, even if you consider, for the future, going into sub ohm and whatnot, you WILL get to it.
So yes, a mech is the way to go. But not only.
Given the fact that a mech will not provide you with any safety feature whatsoever, YOU will be the safety feature.
meaning:
1. Know what you're doing, learn about ohm's law and make sure the battery will handle whatever you throw at it.
2. DO NOT EVER trust anyone about whether or not this or that battery is safe, MAKE SURE it is, cross information online or stick with well known batteries (purple efest, VTC4 etc...)
3. Don't ever take shortcuts when building, double check everything for shorts and hot spots
4. Don't trust your ohm reader (get an ohm reader btw) below 0.3, 0.2ohm, this is too close to the short circuit to gamble, do it at your own risk.
I find that 0.8ohm is a good spot, you get good vapor and flavor AND you get to use smaller, lighter 18350 batteries for a stealth look, without drawing too much from them.
I hope it helped
So yes, a mech is the way to go. But not only.
Given the fact that a mech will not provide you with any safety feature whatsoever, YOU will be the safety feature.
meaning:
1. Know what you're doing, learn about ohm's law and make sure the battery will handle whatever you throw at it.
2. DO NOT EVER trust anyone about whether or not this or that battery is safe, MAKE SURE it is, cross information online or stick with well known batteries (purple efest, VTC4 etc...)
3. Don't ever take shortcuts when building, double check everything for shorts and hot spots
4. Don't trust your ohm reader (get an ohm reader btw) below 0.3, 0.2ohm, this is too close to the short circuit to gamble, do it at your own risk.
I find that 0.8ohm is a good spot, you get good vapor and flavor AND you get to use smaller, lighter 18350 batteries for a stealth look, without drawing too much from them.
I hope it helped
Keep in mind battery length; personally, I'd rather use standard battery length and not have to look for different sizes.
sigelei also sells a kick module designed to screw on to the front of a mech mod; convenient.
The cheaper ones are usually the chrome plated brass version.
The stainless steel is good solid durable metal, harder to manufacture.
Keep in mind battery length; personally, I'd rather use standard battery length and not have to look for different sizes.
sigelei also sells a kick module designed to screw on to the front of a mech mod; convenient.
Changing out a kick module is a whole lot cheaper than having to buy a new evic control head, and after a year using your evic, you ought to know what voltage to wattage to use already, and not need to have a regulated mod where you are experimenting with changing voltage or wattage all the time.
If you are used to using voltage then you'd want to get the vv kick.
If you are used to using wattage then you'd want to get the vw kick; they don't come as vv/vw combined.
You also lose the ability to measure ohms and battery voltage on-the-fly but again after a year of vaping that's probably not so important.
Wouldn't surprise me if we see control heads for mechs become popular in a year or two.
As others said, the magneto or the nemesis are good cheap mods. I would suggest looking into zenesis mods from houseofhybrids and sold by electronicstix.com if you want something nicer. They are very hard to get because they are so sought after and all bought so quickly but they are worth the wait and $$$
Thank You everyone for your suggestions and advice, I ended up getting the Nemeses clone in stainless steel, with the Nimbus RDA clone in stainless, Sony VTC5 30A 18650 2600mah battery and a eFest Xsmart single bay USB charger and they built my RDA and drilled it for $89.37. Just waiting for my battery to fully charge before I test it out.
I hope this is going to be better than the other route I was thinking of with buying the the Kamry K100 kit that's $60 at one shop then buying the Nimbus clone for $15 at another.
The Kamry K100 came with:
Includes:
1x K101 Telescopic Mechanical Mod
1x 510 Ridged Chrome Drip Tip
1x Cartomizer Shield
1x Lithium-ion Battery Charger
1x Safety Protection Chip
1x Deluxe Zippered Carrying Case
1x 18650 2000mAh Battery (Labelled Kamry)
1x 18350 900mAh Battery(Labelled Kamry)
2x Cartomizer
1x User Manual
Did I make the better choice or not?
I hope this is going to be better than the other route I was thinking of with buying the the Kamry K100 kit that's $60 at one shop then buying the Nimbus clone for $15 at another.
The Kamry K100 came with:
Includes:
1x K101 Telescopic Mechanical Mod
1x 510 Ridged Chrome Drip Tip
1x Cartomizer Shield
1x Lithium-ion Battery Charger
1x Safety Protection Chip
1x Deluxe Zippered Carrying Case
1x 18650 2000mAh Battery (Labelled Kamry)
1x 18350 900mAh Battery(Labelled Kamry)
2x Cartomizer
1x User Manual
Did I make the better choice or not?
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Sounds like a better choice in that you now have a good battery and charger instead of no-name stuff. Add a digital multimeter to that, so that you can measure your battery and your coil. All hardware stores and Walmart sell them. Also add an extra 18650 SONY battery, so that you always have a fresh battery available.
I'd also strongly suggest learning to make your own coils if you're getting into the Nimbus. Coils last a good long while, but they're not eternal.
I'd also strongly suggest learning to make your own coils if you're getting into the Nimbus. Coils last a good long while, but they're not eternal.
Is the meter really needed? When I went to the shop they told me I didn't need certain things I thought I might or was advised to get like an ohm reader or voltage meter or kick or 2 cent safety fuse even though they sold the meters.
Definitely a good choice. Welcome to the world of mechs.
I made the move with a Nemesis as well. Mine was the SS HCigar one and I ended up also getting a Copper one. I did put the fatdaddy magnets in, and definitely recommend magnets for your Nemi.
Don't know too much about the Nimbus, I've got a Trident v2 and an Atomic, with an Origen V2 and a Magma (All Clones) on the way. On the tank side, I've got a KFL+ and happy with that as well.
Strongly agree with rhean on the coils. Search for microcoils on Youtube. I'm sure you'll land on and get a kick out of Rip Trippers videos.
Cheers
I made the move with a Nemesis as well. Mine was the SS HCigar one and I ended up also getting a Copper one. I did put the fatdaddy magnets in, and definitely recommend magnets for your Nemi.
Don't know too much about the Nimbus, I've got a Trident v2 and an Atomic, with an Origen V2 and a Magma (All Clones) on the way. On the tank side, I've got a KFL+ and happy with that as well.
Strongly agree with rhean on the coils. Search for microcoils on Youtube. I'm sure you'll land on and get a kick out of Rip Trippers videos.
Cheers
I've got an ohm reader and the voltage meter that screws on top of the mech mod but after a while you know when the battery needs charging. The voltage meter is a bit annoying as it doesn't always make contact and won't give a reading unless you screw the top cap off and adjust the top pin.
Luckily for me, my LUC charger displays the Voltage when you pop em in the charging bay.
Anyways, you will need some way to measure your battery voltage so that you don't use it when it's undercharged
Cheers
Luckily for me, my LUC charger displays the Voltage when you pop em in the charging bay.
Anyways, you will need some way to measure your battery voltage so that you don't use it when it's undercharged
Cheers
Thanks, I got the same SS HCigar clone, the guy told me the copper didn't make any real noticeable difference from the stainless steel which was only a $5 difference. The Nimbus I heard was good, not sure about the clone but, it was the cheapest one at $15 and I was on a budget this time, so I hope to upgrade sooner than later. On the tanks I was hoping I could use my Nautilus tank since I just got it 3-4 days ago, and maybe my iclear 30 or protank?
You can use all your tanks.
Next time your shipping around on a budget, unless your in a rush or have a thing against shopping online you probably could've saved some serious money. Think I paid around 30 bucks for my HCigar nemmy.
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Next time your shipping around on a budget, unless your in a rush or have a thing against shopping online you probably could've saved some serious money. Think I paid around 30 bucks for my HCigar nemmy.
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That's what I asked the shop and they said I should be able to tell when I'm getting weaker hits and I think they said when the taste isn't as strong?
Stupid phone. Can't delete duplicates
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Don't guess with battery voltage. Must have voltmeter until you get used to the life of your batteries.
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I try not to buy online, had to many bad experiences, and I'm very impatient and if I have a problem I prefer it if I can just go back to the place I bought it from, plus they were nice enough to build my RDA for free with the supplies and drilled my RDA (Don't Know what it helps?) and set up my MOD to fit the battery (I would of figured it eventually but, nice that they did).
I'll look in to that sooner than later, when or if I abandon my VV/VW MOD, I'm planing to use both and the mechanical MOD for dripping, and the digital MOD for tanks and probably will carry both with me for now.
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