Two shops talked me out of getting the Magneto and the Chi You clone and the Kamry K100 (Definitely glad I passed on the K100), I got the Nemesis clone, since it's lighter weight and has a floating pin and was suppose to just be better for the same price, and a review on YouTube showed that the Nemesis hit harder than the Chi You and in another that the Nemesis Clone hit harder than the real one.
Need Help Deciding on a MOD
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Two shops talked me out of getting the Magneto and the Chi You clone and the Kamry K100 (Definitely glad I passed on the K100), I got the Nemesis clone, since it's lighter weight and has a floating pin and was suppose to just be better for the same price, and a review on YouTube showed that the Nemesis hit harder than the Chi You and in another that the Nemesis Clone hit harder than the real one.
Sorry, my fault it was a type-o I meant 0.45-0.47 ohms, and yes I got an eleaf that I will be exchang or returning, the ohms are all over the place at times, I'm going to try to pull the batteries and re-test it.
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So this is from the store that said they won't build them under 0.5 ohms? One reason the ohms reading can be all over the place is because the coil is unstable and has shorts.
For your own safety - please stop and learn what you need to know here.
1. You need either a decent digital multimeter or good quality ohm meter and volt meter. Even then when you get into low ohms you need to know readings may not be accurate.
2. Check your battery voltage regularly - you don't know enough about your battery voltage at this point. Don't discharge your battery below 3.2 volts - that's a good cut off point for your own safety and the life of your battery.
3. If you cannot get a stable ohms reading on a coil and the ohms are all over the place - don't keep using the coil.
If the ohms readings on the coil are all over the place, problem is likely with the coil. Try tightening the rda's positive and negative connections. Make sure coils are not touching the base or the posts. That could stabilize the readings.
Rebuilding: There is a free Android app called "Vaper's Toolbox," which computes how long to cut a specific gauge kanthal to achieve a specific resistance. It's not omniscient, doesn't do away with the need for measurements, but it's handy.
The resistance is up to you. I'd start with a single microcoil, and aim for anywhere from .9-1.5, but that's up to you.
There are hundreds of youtube videos on coil building and wick making. There are forums here on rebuilding as well.
28 gauge is easy to work with, and fine for most coils. Gauges lower than that are used by serious sub-ohmers.
Since you're just starting with this setup, you could be unfamiliar with the way the battery drains, and the way the whole thing feels. imo measure the battery hourly, and switch at around 3.5-3.6. People normally feel a drop in their vape quality, but if you're starting out with what sounds like zero vape quality, then you might not
Rebuilding: There is a free Android app called "Vaper's Toolbox," which computes how long to cut a specific gauge kanthal to achieve a specific resistance. It's not omniscient, doesn't do away with the need for measurements, but it's handy.
The resistance is up to you. I'd start with a single microcoil, and aim for anywhere from .9-1.5, but that's up to you.
There are hundreds of youtube videos on coil building and wick making. There are forums here on rebuilding as well.
28 gauge is easy to work with, and fine for most coils. Gauges lower than that are used by serious sub-ohmers.
Since you're just starting with this setup, you could be unfamiliar with the way the battery drains, and the way the whole thing feels. imo measure the battery hourly, and switch at around 3.5-3.6. People normally feel a drop in their vape quality, but if you're starting out with what sounds like zero vape quality, then you might not
Do not overtighten the 510 thread; that's one way that ohms go all over the place; happens on mods too.
Yes, same store, I think the owner told me that, but some of the guys would build it lower, I actually had it rebuilt at a higher ohm a 0.72-0.75 ohm dual micro coil with 28 gauge kanthal and ekowool this time. My ohm reader was reading the same as what they used in the store, it might of just been me and was checking too often without any time in between? I haven't let the battery get under 3.7 V yet.
If the ohms readings on the coil are all over the place, problem is likely with the coil. Try tightening the rda's positive and negative connections. Make sure coils are not touching the base or the posts. That could stabilize the readings.
Rebuilding: There is a free Android app called "Vaper's Toolbox," which computes how long to cut a specific gauge kanthal to achieve a specific resistance. It's not omniscient, doesn't do away with the need for measurements, but it's handy.
The resistance is up to you. I'd start with a single microcoil, and aim for anywhere from .9-1.5, but that's up to you.
There are hundreds of youtube videos on coil building and wick making. There are forums here on rebuilding as well.
28 gauge is easy to work with, and fine for most coils. Gauges lower than that are used by serious sub-ohmers.
Thanks for the tip about the ap, I picked up 100 feet of 28 gauge kanthal for only $11.50, so much cheaper than most of the shops in my area charging $3-4 for 2-3ft and sometimes the 2ft is is the $4 one. I checked you tube and see so many different versions of micro coils, I seen some people just pull cotton under the coils and wrap it around and some people who pull the cotton through the micro coil, I don't know if 1 way is better or not or right or wrong. I think I'm going to stay aroung 0.6-0.75 ohms for now but, not do anything crazy, I tried 0.2 ohms on someone's build and it's just too hot...yeah, yeah I know it's dangerous but just wanted to try a 1 drag, and I'm not going back to that.
Since you're just starting with this setup, you could be unfamiliar with the way the battery drains, and the way the whole thing feels. imo measure the battery hourly, and switch at around 3.5-3.6. People normally feel a drop in their vape quality, but if you're starting out with what sounds like zero vape quality, then you might not
I haven't let the battery drop past 3.7 something ohms. I'm not constantly on it, I use my tank about 75-85% of the day, but my vape quality has gone up now, after having my holes re drilled, and about .3 ohms higher and switching to 3 mg from 6 mg of nicotine, I can drag it and longer without burning my throat and it's not a tight draw unless I close the vent holes on my nemesis clone MOD. I'm getting ok clouds nothing crazy, but good for now.
I never over tighten it, just twist it on until I get a connection or reading, I learned that the hard way about a year ago, when I broke the 510 connection in my very vape pen.
Start with an MVP 2. Self contained battery, vv/vw, micro USB charger, iclear 30 tank included (keep for a backup), output selection to charge a cell phone, avg kit cost 69$ in store. Nautilus will be massive on anything but provides optimal xp. For mech, Magneto or magneto clone by smoktech.
Thanks, but I already picked up the Hcigar Nemesis clone, based on price, I was talked out of the Magneto, which was the same price, plus I didn't like the finish of it and deciding not to go telescopic. As far as a new VV/VW MOD, is not in my budget, I spent a lot more than I thought I would on going mechanical and buying most everything needed to go with it and to try to start rebuilding my rda. But, if I do get a new VV/VW MOD I would go with the ugly iTaste VTR, since it doesn't have a fixed battery and supports unprotected batteries and is suppose to be able to sub ohm as low as 0.5-0.7 ohm but, isn't a pass thru device and doesn't come with batteries. But, I'll wait until my eVic completely fails first.
Just wishing or wondering if I should of spent the extra $10-15 and got the Stingray clone instead, been reading that most people prefer the Stingray clone over the Nemesis clone.
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I would get the vamo fastech. I have it sometimes goes 3.2 volts on battery.
Svd good but cuts out sooner 3.6 volts starts acting up i have both authentic one and the genuine one.
Svd good but cuts out sooner 3.6 volts starts acting up i have both authentic one and the genuine one.
Thanks, but I need to have a MOD without as fixed battery, but after going mechanical and buying everything I needed with it plus an extra RDA and drip tip, I'm broke now, since it ending up costing more than buying a new VV/VW MOD. But, at least I have enough kanthal wire, silica, and cotton balls to get me through at least the end of the year if not longer.
personally i can recommend the vamo series.
i'm on a v2 and couldn't be happier.
i'm on a v2 and couldn't be happier.
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