Need Help. Mechanical Mod Way Too HOT.

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Ryedan

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So I was trying to use my Aspire Nautilus tank with my SMPL 18650 mechanical mod and when I pressed the fire button it didn't work but the tube started to heart up so fast it was going to burn my hand. What's wrong ? Why is this happening ?

I do not have either of these devices, but I am sure that you are shorting the battery when you hit the button. Do not fire this setup again until you have things figured out or you'll cause the battery to vent and that can be dangerous.
 

Signmaker

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you should get an rda for your mech mod anyway... unless you are rebuilding you own nautilus coils.... but I still don't think its worth it for a nautilus.
Yes, because a dripper is pretty much the same as a clearomizer. C'mon man...

Sounds like a short.

See if your center pin on your Nautilus wiggles...if so it could be that when you screw your atty onto the mod and insert the battery and then the end cap --as you tighten it up it causes the pin on the atty to move to the side making contact causing a direct short.
Oh yeah, I forgot about that wonky pin on the Nautilus. The insulator around it can deform, or the "nail head" on the bottom of it bends to touch the 510. Sounds like a more likely culprit (dunno why I was thinking the Nautilus had a fixed 510).
 

Miata GT

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From what I've read the Atlantis is a NO-NO for anything that has a 'hybrid' connection (where the 510 on the atty goes straight to the battery). The reason is a hybrid connection on the mod requires the positive pin on the atty to stick out so that both positive and negative don't touch the battery together. The Atlantis' positive pin is flush with the negative threaded part, causing a short with your battery.
 

DaveSignal

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Yes, because a dripper is pretty much the same as a clearomizer. C'mon man...

Well a mech mod is an unregulated mod. It pulls more power from the battery depending on how low of a resistance the coils are built. So, regardless of whether the 510 pin in the nautilus extends far enough to use with a hybrid mod, there is a whole separate issue. The pre-built aspire coils, which I believe are 1.8 ohm, are going to pull less than 10 watts of power, even with a brand-new freshly charged battery. As the battery starts to drain, this power will drop even further. Its just not going to be a good vape.

So I believe that my point is valid, an rda, rta, or some sort of rebuildable device should be used with a mech mod, not a clearomizer.
 
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Signmaker

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Well a mech mod is an unregulated mod. It pulls more power from the battery depending on how low of a resistance the coils are built. So, regardless of whether the 510 pin in the nautilus extends far enough to use with a hybrid mod, there is a whole separate issue. The pre-built aspire coils, which I believe are 1.8 ohm, are going to pull less than 10 watts of power, even with a brand-new freshly charged battery. As the battery starts to drain, this power will drop even further. Its just not going to be a good vape.

So I believe that my point is valid, an rda, rta, or some sort of rebuildable device should be used with a mech mod, not a clearomizer.

How is a clearomizer with a 1.8ohm build any different from an RDA with a 1.8ohm build, in regards to the mod it sits on? OP isnt looking for a hotter vape, so I'd take that to mean they're happy with 7-10 watts over the life of a battery. What OP was asking for is a way to get a particular clearomizer to work on a particular mech mod; I take that to mean they have reasons to want that setup, whether it may be the vape quality, ease of use, durability, or look/feel.

Dont mean to jump on you, it's just that I hear "get a RDA and a mech" as a whitewash answer too often. It's right up there with "get a Provari" answers whenever someone asks about VW mods...even if it was about finding a wrap for their MVP.
 

Neolithium

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Aspire nautilus tanks have spring loaded 510 connectors. The SMPL 18650 is a hybrid mod which means the connection is going straight onto your battery, chances are you're screwing it on tight enough that its contacting not just the positive pin on the nautilus but also the threading of the tank and shorting that way. It's a bad Mod/Tank combo - your best bet would be getting a mod that is not hybrid, or if you're dead set on this one - loosen it off so ONLY the positive pin is making a connection however this is a much more likely scenario that will still short you out down the line.
 

DaveSignal

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How is a clearomizer with a 1.8ohm build any different from an RDA with a 1.8ohm build, in regards to the mod it sits on? OP isnt looking for a hotter vape, so I'd take that to mean they're happy with 7-10 watts over the life of a battery. What OP was asking for is a way to get a particular clearomizer to work on a particular mech mod; I take that to mean they have reasons to want that setup, whether it may be the vape quality, ease of use, durability, or look/feel.

Dont mean to jump on you, it's just that I hear "get a RDA and a mech" as a whitewash answer too often. It's right up there with "get a Provari" answers whenever someone asks about VW mods...even if it was about finding a wrap for their MVP.

OK. I guess I shouldn't have suggested the RDA. But an RDA is a good match for a mech, and was a suggestion due to the fact that the nautilus doesn't work with the mech that OP owns. Even if it did not short out, the mech output would be limited. But there is probably another nautilus-like clearomizer that works better with hybrid mech mods like the SMPL.
 
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