Need Help with my Russian 91%

[Woofer]

Ok. I replaced all of the o rings, put a new wick on, S curve wick sitting on the deck above the juice channels, and I'm still getting dry hits. I put my finger over the air hole and took a draw, no air leaks. tank is full of juice so wth is going on????? I can't figure out why I'm still getting burnt hits. I've even messed with adjusting the airflow and no changes there either

Just checking, you say the tank is full of juice. You know the tank needs some air in it to function correctly right?
No offence, just checkin'

 

[RedwoodOrginal]

None taken. By full I just mean it does have juice in it. Enough that it should be flowing through the channels but it's not filled to the brim


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[SndGrdn]

What are you vaping on? What power settings

Maybe your coil is heating up to fast...If they glow while vaping then you are probably using to much wattage...just thinking out-loud

 

[RedwoodOrginal]

I have a SMOK SID VV/VW Mod. I always have it set at 4 volts. My mod is showing the resistance is at 1.5 ohms.

 

[RedwoodOrginal]

And if it matters my juice is 12 mg 50/50 blend

 

[eINDY]

Have you tried to take out the small center pin on bottom and tightening down the center pin (shaft) than reinstall small center pin.. Had same problem wit mine and this helped it. Hope this helps you..

 

[deach]

Anytime mine is much over half full I have this happen (occasionally and only if I hit it bunch at one session). I usually unscrew the cap just a little if it's fuller and let a bubble or two come up then tighten and vape. Once it falls below half (or so) it seems to hit ok. Good luck!

 

[RedwoodOrginal]

eIndy....I checked the center pin shaft a couple days ago when I put a new coil and wick on. It's good and tight. I also replaced the little o ring on the small center pin.

 

[IMFire3605]

I would suggest 3 things, given the age of the tank the first is just a safety issue

1 ) Check the insulator on the negative block for any melting, this is done by completely removing the second bottom screw (negative block post and air tube), and while that post is out check the underside, you'll find another plastic insulator only it is round, use a small screw driver to force it out to inspect this insulator as well.
2 ) Check and clean the bottom deck (especially the juice channels), clean the threads of the coil chamber barrel, any gunk that could build up might be in these and could lead to liquid blocking
3 ) Russian wicking that has never failed me. Thread it through the coil, pull it up to install the barrel, trim the wick about 1mm to 1/8th inch over the barrel, wet wick, then tuck it down carefully along the build blocks onto the deck in an "L" shape back against the build block away from the juice channels, this "L" shape when liquid flows up, if the wick is tucked down right, the liquid will come up and rest on top of the lower arm of the "L" instead of just coming up to maybe barely touch the bottom of the wick as I seen in your posted picture.

hth, but I think #3 is your issue

 

[Subdivisions]

If doing an 'S' shaped wick that's laying on the deck you must make sure it's not covering the juice channels. It will reduce the flow from the juice chamber up through the chimney. It's better to have the juice flow uninhibited up the channel and onto the deck before touching the wick. On the picture of your previous wick you had the end of the wick touching the deck and keeping the channels clear but there wasn't enough wick surface area touching the juice

I usually make my wick, wet it, then screw on the chimney section with the top removed so I can look down into the chamber. When you screw that piece on sometimes it will move the wick around. Take a little flat head screwdriver or a nail an push the wick away from the juice channel against the vertical piece that the coil sits on then put the chimney top back on.

EDIT: Looks like IMFire beat me to it

 

[Steven Martinez]

The way i do my cotton is i cut it even with the piece that the chimney goes onto then i push it down onto the juice channels and fluff it up a little. This way it does pull the juice from the channels faster and I'm vaping at .5 on a mech mod. No dry hits or leaks unless I pull the top and put it back on then I do get a little leak out of the bottom.

 

[cad99]

So I got my kayfun going again.I know you have a Russian but cause there is "so many" differences lol.but the same problem the solution should be the same.so I started all over 1.5 ohm coil 30g spaced built at 45 degree angle over the air hole so I had more room to run the wick at a 90 degree angle across the deck.then I noticed a nice Nick on the juice channel so I got a small file and gave them a nice polish I believe this is the root cause because I would never get bubbles until I loosened my top cap.then I followed with the navy nest wick which there is many youtube videos on.but I used cotton and the video has silica so I slightly wet the cotton to make it easy to work with and I am happy to report have been through two tanks now bubbles after every toot had it up to 17 watts took ten chain vapes and not ever one dry hit.I hope this works for you but I would look really closely at the juice channel I needed a magnifying glass to spot this burr on mine good luck.

Sent from my KFTT using Tapatalk

 

[RedwoodOrginal]

Hey everyone....I just wanted to give an update and say thanks a lot for all of the advice, tips, etc. The issue appears to have gone away. Last night I took my whole tank apart...changed the only o ring I hadn't changed yet, cleaned it and did a whole new build. So far I have not had one burnt hit. I don't know what the exact issue was but I'm thinking it was the o rings, causing the tank to not get a good seal. Hopefully the burnt hits are gone for good, or at least until the o rings need to be replaced again. Thanks again everyone!!!