I've been vaping for about 6 months now at least and I'm ok with my mods that I have but I've only ever used protanks for toppers. I have protank minis, protank 2, and aerotank. What would be the next step up from this? I've read a lot of people like the kayfun but I have zero knowledge of building so I'm a little concerned I would do it wrong. Is there something in between this or do you think it's not that hard to figure out the kayfun? I've read some people like the nautilus but really am wanting other people's recommendations. Thanks!
Need help with next step up beyond a protank
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Yes... an RBA, like a Kayfun, Russian, Taifun or sQuape would be the next step.
It's not hard to wrap and mount coils, but does take a bit of practice and education. Here's a list of information links that will aid you in the knowledge you need to become a successful rebuilder... should you choose that route.
It's not hard to wrap and mount coils, but does take a bit of practice and education. Here's a list of information links that will aid you in the knowledge you need to become a successful rebuilder... should you choose that route.
Before RDA or RBA you could try either Carto tanks, or these next 2 a Nautilus or the new Kanger Aero Mega these are upper class of clearos.
For a simple RDA try an Octopus, kinda small but a good cheap about 8 bucks start, lots of info here on building coils etc.
GL in the next step on your journey.
For a simple RDA try an Octopus, kinda small but a good cheap about 8 bucks start, lots of info here on building coils etc.
GL in the next step on your journey.
They are, for all intent and purpose, the same atomizer... so in practical terms, if you find a Kebo Russian 91%, and you can't find a SvoeMesto Kayfun Lite Plus... buy the R91% without the concern of feeling like you've somehow shortchanged yourself... and visa versa.
The SM KF3.1 and Kebo Russian have a "collector tank" making the atty a bit taller. The KFL+ & Russian 91% do away with the collector tank, and have a shorter form factor.
I hope that makes sense. I could go into the history and small details of the two brands, but I'm guessing you're not interested in that right now... if you are, PM me, and I can go into greater detail and provide links.
Right now, Mount Baker Vapor is having a sale (code VE10) on genuine Kebo attys.
A quality carto tank set-up could be the next step or endpoint if you like vaping nicotine juices under nine watts. Carto tanks are a great solution for those of us who want big vapor from a low maintenance atomizer. Carto tanks have a learning curve, but it's no biggie. I fill a carto tank once a day and change out a carto and wash out the tank once a week. That's vaping goodness for me.
I think coil building is blown out of proportion. At first I was very intimidated, but after actually building my own I see that it's not so bad. The hardest part is figuring out what gauge to use, how many wraps, and how large of a diameter you will need. I played around with it and built a successful one on my second attempt. Just be careful with your ohms.
If you don't want to build, the aspire nautilus would be a good step up. If you do want to build, I would recommend the kayfun lite plus. That's what I jut got, and I love it! I was scared I wouldnt be able to get it to work right, but all fear subsided once I actually got into building it. Watching youtube videos can be helpful, but I'll be honest....only until I turned off youtube and just went about it on my own combining all the things I've learned, did I have a successful coil. Unless you have the exact mod and exact same atty as what's used in the video, with all other factors being the same, you will NOT get the same results. The videos are more to give you an idea of how to get started, not how to finish. Stupid me, I had discarded several nice microcoils built just like as in the video because they weren't reading on the provari. Yet my ohm meter said they were fine. I realized I wasn't adjusting the voltage down on it to accommodate the resistance in the coil. I was so concerned with everything else I forgot the most important part!
Like you, I had only protanks before the KFL+ so I was in the dark. Just sit down and think of what you really want out of your vape. What is most important? Flavor, amount of vapor, quality of vapor, convenience, etc. Since flavor is not my top priority I went with a rebuildable TANK atty, even though I've still got awesome flavor with the kayfun, it won't be as great as I could achieve with a rebuildable drip atty. I prefer the tank because I vape a lot and physically can't place drops on the wick all day long when I'm out and about. Maybe one day I'll get into RDAs but for now, I'll stick with this. And once I get the Kayfun out of my system, I'll go back and rebuild my protank coils.
If you don't want to build, the aspire nautilus would be a good step up. If you do want to build, I would recommend the kayfun lite plus. That's what I jut got, and I love it! I was scared I wouldnt be able to get it to work right, but all fear subsided once I actually got into building it. Watching youtube videos can be helpful, but I'll be honest....only until I turned off youtube and just went about it on my own combining all the things I've learned, did I have a successful coil. Unless you have the exact mod and exact same atty as what's used in the video, with all other factors being the same, you will NOT get the same results. The videos are more to give you an idea of how to get started, not how to finish. Stupid me, I had discarded several nice microcoils built just like as in the video because they weren't reading on the provari. Yet my ohm meter said they were fine. I realized I wasn't adjusting the voltage down on it to accommodate the resistance in the coil. I was so concerned with everything else I forgot the most important part!
Like you, I had only protanks before the KFL+ so I was in the dark. Just sit down and think of what you really want out of your vape. What is most important? Flavor, amount of vapor, quality of vapor, convenience, etc. Since flavor is not my top priority I went with a rebuildable TANK atty, even though I've still got awesome flavor with the kayfun, it won't be as great as I could achieve with a rebuildable drip atty. I prefer the tank because I vape a lot and physically can't place drops on the wick all day long when I'm out and about. Maybe one day I'll get into RDAs but for now, I'll stick with this. And once I get the Kayfun out of my system, I'll go back and rebuild my protank coils.
Before I went to the Kayfuns, I was rebuilding the coils on my PT2's (micro and chimney coils).......I didn't realize what a PITA that was til I got my first Kayfun (a Tobeco KFL) and it was easy. Since then, have a bunch of different 1:1, clones of 7 KFL's, 3 Russians, and 2 Squapes. The biggest visual difference is whether they have air draw adjustment or the location of the fill port screw(bottom or side).
The "guts" are basically the same, 2 screw posts, air intake directly below coil, deck and juice channels.
Here's a coil chart that can help you get started: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AiaRSDxC1vG6dC1HZEtmY0pPYzBvdUw2blJHVjdkc1E&usp=sharing#gid=0 It has a lot of different types of wire gauge, wraps, and ohms created.
The coils themselves aren't the place you'll have an "issue", it's usually your wicking material and how much/little you use, and how it sets on the deck, across the deck, or fanned over the deck. Too much wick-dry hits, too little-flooding.
All that gobbledigoop being said...........major upgrade and it really IS quite easy. If this almost 53 year old gal can do it, (random carpel tunnel and eye issues, grrr!) you can do it!
The "guts" are basically the same, 2 screw posts, air intake directly below coil, deck and juice channels.
Here's a coil chart that can help you get started: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AiaRSDxC1vG6dC1HZEtmY0pPYzBvdUw2blJHVjdkc1E&usp=sharing#gid=0 It has a lot of different types of wire gauge, wraps, and ohms created.
The coils themselves aren't the place you'll have an "issue", it's usually your wicking material and how much/little you use, and how it sets on the deck, across the deck, or fanned over the deck. Too much wick-dry hits, too little-flooding.
All that gobbledigoop being said...........major upgrade and it really IS quite easy. If this almost 53 year old gal can do it, (random carpel tunnel and eye issues, grrr!) you can do it!
Start here for a Kayfun build, pics and all that:http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/general-e-smoking-discussion/507143-focalecig-new-fasttech-35.html#post12398269
Honestly, the best KFLs I've bought are $15! Unfortunately, they've been out of stock for a while, but for being a "clone, 1:1, or whatever", they've been by far better than any of the other's I've gotten.
*That link takes you directly to the post where it starts!
Honestly, the best KFLs I've bought are $15! Unfortunately, they've been out of stock for a while, but for being a "clone, 1:1, or whatever", they've been by far better than any of the other's I've gotten.
*That link takes you directly to the post where it starts!
Another big difference I saw on a review about kayfuns and Russians is that when you loosen the screw on the bottom (the one that touches the battery) your entire coil setup moves with the kayfun. In the russian the post for your coil is separate from the bottom contact screw and won't move. I would go with the russian 91. I love the kayfun, but I'm afraid I'm going to love the russian more when it arrives, just because of that issue.
I also had to take a spare O ring (that is intended to fit the tiny refilling screw) and place it around that bottom contact screw because it wasn't long Enough to make contact with the provari contact (which is another reason I thought my coil wasn't working. The provari kept reading E1 because it didn't know there was an atty on top since it wasn't contacting). This o ring extended the length of the screw while allowing it to stay tight and not leak. Took me forever to figure out that one. I don't know if this would be an issue with the russian also, but I know for sure you won't have to worry about the first problem I mentioned.
I also had to take a spare O ring (that is intended to fit the tiny refilling screw) and place it around that bottom contact screw because it wasn't long Enough to make contact with the provari contact (which is another reason I thought my coil wasn't working. The provari kept reading E1 because it didn't know there was an atty on top since it wasn't contacting). This o ring extended the length of the screw while allowing it to stay tight and not leak. Took me forever to figure out that one. I don't know if this would be an issue with the russian also, but I know for sure you won't have to worry about the first problem I mentioned.
Tons of IBTanked owners here on ECF...
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/tanks/484566-ibtanked-show-em-off.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/tanks/484566-ibtanked-show-em-off.html
I use ProTanks all the time, I've re-wicked them with pre-made coils, and seen quite a difference.
https://www.fasttech.com/p/1591806
A couple of days ago, I got the air flow controller, and, wow, what a giant leap those made!
Kanger Airflow Control Valve - Protank II, Protank 3, Aerotank
If you love your ProTanks, these 2 fixes can really take you to the next level, without breaking the bank and wasting perfectly good Protanks. YMMV
https://www.fasttech.com/p/1591806
A couple of days ago, I got the air flow controller, and, wow, what a giant leap those made!
Kanger Airflow Control Valve - Protank II, Protank 3, Aerotank
If you love your ProTanks, these 2 fixes can really take you to the next level, without breaking the bank and wasting perfectly good Protanks. YMMV
I am a noob at rebuildables up until last week. I've been vaping a little over a year on pro tanks...and they've worked well for me. I picked up a kayfun lite+ some 28 awg kanthal and some organic cotton balls last week. First build was ok... I didn't clean the tank out as well as I should of so it had a machine oily taste. The draw was a little burnt... But after watching this vid.
And doing a 11/12 wrap on a 5/64 drill bit micro coil and following exactly how Rip does the wick... I'm amazed at how well I like it. I have it running on a spinner 1300 until my kamry gets here in a few days. It really wasn't very difficult but you do need a ohms checker like the one in his vid... http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=z7o7RFoTtw0
The flavor, TH, and that it hold 4.5 mls of juice make it 1000% worth learning to build..
And doing a 11/12 wrap on a 5/64 drill bit micro coil and following exactly how Rip does the wick... I'm amazed at how well I like it. I have it running on a spinner 1300 until my kamry gets here in a few days. It really wasn't very difficult but you do need a ohms checker like the one in his vid... http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=z7o7RFoTtw0
The flavor, TH, and that it hold 4.5 mls of juice make it 1000% worth learning to build.
.
Started with an Iclear 30. Then Iclear 30s. Then Kanger ProTank2. Then re-built coils for PT2's. Then an RDA, and that really changed things for me. I still love the PT2's, they are really good, but still. I now have an Ehpro KFL+ on order, should be here early next week.
Good thing is it seems to me it was a natural progression, with a lot of learning that prepared me for the next step along the way. I still like and often vape the older equipment too. I was fortunate enough to find ECF early on before I blew a lot of money on frustrating junk.
Good thing is it seems to me it was a natural progression, with a lot of learning that prepared me for the next step along the way. I still like and often vape the older equipment too. I was fortunate enough to find ECF early on before I blew a lot of money on frustrating junk.
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