Need help with this to make sure I got it right VV Mod

[Todd Mulske]

I am not sure what size resistor to use between the control pin and the ground on the VV Reg as far as wattage and resistance goes. I also am not sure about the capacitor size between pin 2 and 3 and 3 and 4. Also what size rand wattage rating resistor should be used between the pot and the trim on the VV Reg.

If anyone has some suggestions as far as how to make this better please comment. I definitely could use some help.

Thanks Todd

 

[CapeCAD]

1. Your volt meter is measuring input voltage instead of output voltage, is this intentional?
2. A diode is not needed between battery and input.
3. Which VV reg are you using? This is needed to determine the capacitor and resistance.
4. batteries are shown in Parallel and would need to be in series to allow step down voltage.

 

[Todd Mulske]

1. I want to be able to measure both input and out put voltage with the voltage meter. How would I accomplish this.
2. Doesn't a diode prevent current from going backwards; wouldn't putting one there be like a reverse current protection.
3. I am using a OKR-T/10-W12 VV Regulator.
4. I did a crappy job at drawing this out, not my strong point; they will be in series.

Thanks for the quick reply

Todd

 

[CapeCAD]

1. To measure both input and output voltage add a connection from pin 3 of the volt meter to the VO of the OKR and leave the other connections as you have them.
2. There is no need for a diode, there is no reverse current from the converter into the battery. A fuse would be good here.
3. No external capacitors are required for this converter, it has enough on board capacitance. If you wish to add a 10uF, 16V capacitor on both the input and output it would not hurt.
4. Any size resistor would work, there is no current running through this resistor. A 1/10Watt would be adequate. A 220 ohm resistor and 400 ohm pot would put you in a good range.
5. A 10K, 1/10W or 1/8W resistor between ctl and gnd would work.

 

[Todd Mulske]

I understand everything you said except the part of putting a connection between the VO on the VV REG and pin 3 of the voltage meter. When I hit the atomizer switch wont current be entering the voltage meter from both the battery source and the Voltage out on the Regulator.

 

[Scottinboca]

Make sure your fluxcopasitor is running at 1.21 gigawatts. That is the only way time travel is possible.

 

[CapeCAD]

The volt meter will alternate between displaying the input voltage and the output voltage.

Pin 1 is the minus and pins 2,3,4,5,6,7 are all plus voltages and can be connected to 6 different sources.

 

[Todd Mulske]

Ok, I understand; just want to get one thing straight in my head. Lets say I have a small 25mmx25mmx10mm cooling fan installed in the case and want to know the voltage of the fan as well. Let's say I connect the fan to the switch from the power source and use a trimmer to reduce current to 5 volt and a resistor to decrease amp draw. If I connected the positive of the fan to a resistor then to a trimmer then to pin 4 of the volt meter are you saying it would alternate from pin 2 which shaould read the current voltage of the batteries to pin 3 which should display the voltage to the Atty connector to pin 4 which should display the voltage to the fan.

One other question about the Potentiometer. what would the difference between a 400 ohm pot and a 200 ohm pot be. I would still be able to go from .6 volt to approximately 6 volts with either wouldn't I. Would a 400 ohm Potentiometer give you more ability to control voltage because of the higher resistance; what I mean lets say you turn a 200 ohm pot 1/4 turn and a 400 a quarter turn; the 200 would increase voltage at a faster rate than the 400 right. What wattage Potentiometer would you use.

Appreciate the help.

 

[CapeCAD]

Ok, I understand; just want to get one thing straight in my head. Lets say I have a small 25mmx25mmx10mm cooling fan installed in the case and want to know the voltage of the fan as well. Let's say I connect the fan to the switch from the power source and use a trimmer to reduce current to 5 volt and a resistor to decrease amp draw. If I connected the positive of the fan to a resistor then to a trimmer then to pin 4 of the volt meter are you saying it would alternate from pin 2 which shaould read the current voltage of the batteries to pin 3 which should display the voltage to the Atty connector to pin 4 which should display the voltage to the fan.

Correct

One other question about the Potentiometer. what would the difference between a 400 ohm pot and a 200 ohm pot be. I would still be able to go from .6 volt to approximately 6 volts with either wouldn't I. Would a 400 ohm Potentiometer give you more ability to control voltage because of the higher resistance; what I mean lets say you turn a 200 ohm pot 1/4 turn and a 400 a quarter turn; the 200 would increase voltage at a faster rate than the 400 right. What wattage Potentiometer would you use.

Appreciate the help.

You could get away with either depending on the range you want:
400ohm pot would get you ~2.5-6V with a 220ohm resistor in series
200ohm pot would get you ~3.3-6V with a 220ohm resistor in series

There is no current in the pot, very low wattage is needed

 

[Todd Mulske]

So what you are saying is by using this equation: you add the resistance of the resistor in line of the potentiometer to the resistance of the pot and that is how low you can go. So 220 + 400 = 620.

Output Voltage Calculated Rtrim (Ω)
6 V. 218.5
5 V. 268
3.3 V. 436
2.5 V. 619
1.8 V. 978
1.5 V. 1300
1.2 V. 1940
1.0 V. 2890
0.591 V. ∞ (open)

RTRIM (k) = 1.182/(VOUT – 0.591

Resistor Trim Equation, OKR-T/10-W12 models:
OKR-T/10-W12 Series
Adjustable Output 10-Amp SIP-mount DC/DC Converters
MDC

 

[CapeCAD]

So what you are saying is by using this equation: you add the resistance of the resistor in line of the potentiometer to the resistance of the pot and that is how low you can go. So 220 + 400 = 620.

Output Voltage Calculated Rtrim (Ω)
6 V. 218.5
5 V. 268
3.3 V. 436
2.5 V. 619
1.8 V. 978
1.5 V. 1300
1.2 V. 1940
1.0 V. 2890
0.591 V. ∞ (open)

RTRIM (k) = 1.182/(VOUT – 0.591

Resistor Trim Equation, OKR-T/10-W12 models:
OKR-T/10-W12 Series
Adjustable Output 10-Amp SIP-mount DC/DC Converters
MDC

That is correct. And the reason for using the 220 ohm in series is to limit the maximum voltage when the pot is turned all of the way down.

 

[Todd Mulske]

After looking at this diagram again I came up with another potential problem.



If I leave these connections as they are, I believe their will be power going to the Voltage in of the VV Regulator even when the switch is turned off. How can I correct this.

 

[CapeCAD]

When the master switch is off there will not be any power going to the regulator. When the master switch is on there will be power, but it will be minimal (1/1000's of an amp) until the enable switch is activated.

 

[Todd Mulske]

Never mind, I see what you are saying.

 

[Todd Mulske]

One other thing to ask you. When the power is on, the voltage meter will always have power to it. Is there a way to turn the voltage meter off when I do not want to use it. Maybe by placing a switch on the positive or negative wire (opening one of them) of the voltage meter. Would this work.

 

[Todd Mulske]

Hold on, I remember you saying in a previews post on this thread that pin 1 is negative and the rest are positive that the meter displays one at a time. I would have to break the ground otherwise if I broke one of the positives it would just break that reading for that pin; is this correct.

 

[CapeCAD]

Hold on, I remember you saying in a previews post on this thread that pin 1 is negative and the rest are positive that the meter displays one at a time. I would have to break the ground otherwise if I broke one of the positives it would just break that reading for that pin; is this correct.

Correct, break the ground connection to turn the voltage meter off completely.

 

[Str8V8ping]

You can just add a switch inline with the battery voltage pin . The only thing i dont like about reading two voltages with that meter is is displays a third total voltage of the two combined which is annoying expecially if adjusting off of it . For the okr-t resistors use a 220 ohm and 200 ohm pot for the best range .

 

[Todd Mulske]

Another thing that comes to mind. Does the 1s-6s start reading from pin 2 when it is activated and then every 2 seconds it moves to the next pin. If it does that means if you hook the battery source up to pin 2 and the Vout to pin 3 you would have to hold the button down for 2 seconds before pin 3 or the voltage under load of the atomizer would display. 2 seconds would burn the juice. If I wire the Vout to pin 2 and the battery source to pin 3 the meter would read Vout under load immediately, right. If I wanted to check the voltage on the battery source, I could just unscrew the atomizer and hold the button for 2 seconds to get the voltage without load from the atomizer and the current voltage of the battery source, right.

One other option I could go with is a spdt switch with the pole being connected to pin2 and 1 throw wired to Vout and the other throw wired to the battery source. I really do not like this though because I do not really want a toggle or slider switch in my mod. I do not believe you can get a push button switch that is spdt. I just want to keep everything as close to flush with my box as possible.

I was looking through the vapors forum at other mods and seen a mod by a user called Mamu. She utilized a few spdt switches in her circuit. Very nice mod and very compact for what she has in the box.

Presenting Denali... - Vapers Forum

My box will be a little larger; 114mmx69.85mmx25.4mm

I ordered all the parts for my mod today; I had to use about four or five different vendors to get all the parts. Only parts I am not sure about are the switches I ordered from radio shack; they are rated at 125v/3 amps but I am worried about the contacts on them.

I did not order the 25mmx25mmx10mm cooling fan yet; will have to make sure I have enough room in the box; probably a little overkill anyway.

 

[BJ43]

Another thing that comes to mind. Does the 1s-6s start reading from pin 2 when it is activated and then every 2 seconds it moves to the next pin. If it does that means if you hook the battery source up to pin 2 and the Vout to pin 3 you would have to hold the button down for 2 seconds before pin 3 or the voltage under load of the atomizer would display. 2 seconds would burn the juice. If I wire the Vout to pin 2 and the battery source to pin 3 the meter would read Vout under load immediately, right. If I wanted to check the voltage on the battery source, I could just unscrew the atomizer and hold the button for 2 seconds to get the voltage without load from the atomizer and the current voltage of the battery source, right.

One other option I could go with is a spdt switch with the pole being connected to pin2 and 1 throw wired to Vout and the other throw wired to the battery source. I really do not like this though because I do not really want a toggle or slider switch in my mod. I do not believe you can get a push button switch that is spdt. I just want to keep everything as close to flush with my box as possible.

I was looking through the vapors forum at other mods and seen a mod by a user called Mamu. She utilized a few spdt switches in her circuit. Very nice mod and very compact for what she has in the box.

Presenting Denali... - Vapers Forum

My box will be a little larger; 114mmx69.85mmx25.4mm

I ordered all the parts for my mod today; I had to use about four or five different vendors to get all the parts. Only parts I am not sure about are the switches I ordered from radio shack; they are rated at 125v/3 amps but I am worried about the contacts on them.

I did not order the 25mmx25mmx10mm cooling fan yet; will have to make sure I have enough room in the box; probably a little overkill anyway.

It will read as you say then give you the sum of the two sources. I ended up using a on off on slide switch, batt off atty, I like that at the center position it is off and doesn't stay on all the time.