Need Quick Help/Advice - PT2 and MVP

[Meggiewegs]

Been using this setup for about a year. Occasionally I will get burnt taste. I just put a new coil on yesterday and everything was fine, but today it's gone nasty. Normally they gunk up and I know when to change the coil when I stop getting vapor. It's pretty rare, but annoying, when it burns. Down to one coil and ordered more, but I don't want to screw up my last one before replacements come.

I have the iTaste MVP (older model). Using 2.2 ohm coils. device is on lowest setting at 3.3.

What am I doing wrong?

Thank you!

 

[DreamWithin]

Moved to Clearomizers forum

 

[mac63]

my quick guess would be that the wick wasn't saturated when you fired it and the material got burnt

 

[big4570]

that would be my guess also.

 

[pufZeppelin]

Been using this setup for about a year. Occasionally I will get burnt taste. I just put a new coil on yesterday and everything was fine, but today it's gone nasty. Normally they gunk up and I know when to change the coil when I stop getting vapor. It's pretty rare, but annoying, when it burns. Down to one coil and ordered more, but I don't want to screw up my last one before replacements come.

I have the iTaste MVP (older model). Using 2.2 ohm coils. Device is on lowest setting at 3.3.

What am I doing wrong?

Thank you!

hi Meggiewegs,

agree with others, has to be a ‘wicking’ problem or “Vapor Lock”
due to the design of the protank II, I can’t tell to just block off
the air intake holes, and suck on mouthpiece so to ‘pull’ fliud
into the wick…
what you need to do is remove PTII from device
stick a toothpick gently into the bottom hole of assembled protankII
to BLOCK ALL AIR INTAKE, gently draw and watch air bubbles rise inside
there, vapor-lock cured…
- http://www.dxtechinc.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/Protank-ii-2-4.jpg

if you do it too much, you will create a new problem – flooding (be careful)
but flooding is fix-able (burnt is not with out rebuilding)

good luck

 

[mac63]

hi Meggiewegs,

agree with others, has to be a ‘wicking’ problem or “Vapor Lock”
due to the design of the protank II, I can’t tell to just block off
the air intake holes, and suck on mouthpiece so to ‘pull’ fliud
into the wick…
what you need to do is remove PTII from device
stick a toothpick gently into the bottom hole of assembled protankII
to BLOCK ALL AIR INTAKE, gently draw and watch air bubbles rise inside
there, vapor-lock cured…
- http://www.dxtechinc.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/Protank-ii-2-4.jpg

if you do it too much, you will create a new problem – flooding (be careful)
but flooding is fix-able (burnt is not with out rebuilding)

good luck

This is where the AFC comes in handy. Whenever I have a fresh coil I close the AFC and do occasional light draws until the juice is there - you will be able to sense when it is there.

 

[pufZeppelin]

This is where the AFC comes in handy.
Whenever I have a fresh coil I close the AFC and do occasional light draws until the juice is there -
you will be able to sense when it is there.

yepper, with afc the task is much easier

sounds like you're doing it right...

 

[aznnp77]

That started to happen to me when I first got mine 6 months ago. I still have no explanation for it really.

I think I eventually swapped the pieces out from a broken MPT2 and it somehow stopped, but came back again.

If you're still using the original base, I'd recommend swapping it for the Aerotank base, aka the Kanger Air Control Valve. They used to sell the v1 for like 5 bucks shipped, but I'm not sure if they're still available anymore. The v2 and v3 go for around $9-10 I think.

All 4 of my protanks have the air control valves and I never use the originals anymore. In the enclosed base it also prevents juice from leaking onto the pin when the coil is going out.

I will also note that 3.3 volts is really too low. Depending on the juice, I couldn't use it at less than 3.6 or 3.8 at 2.2 ohms. Yes, this this was my MVP2 as well.

 

[Bored2Tears]

Ditto what's been said. If the OP does not yet have the Airflow control that is a HIGHLY recommended addition for $5 or $6.

Is it possible that the 2.2. ohm coil is actually a different resistance?

Another possibility is the MVP is delivering more voltage than you think. If you have a digital multimeter, test the actual volts being applied when it's firing. I almost suspect this because it's unlikely that you[ve been using this exact setup for a year and just now having problems with properly saturating the wick.