Need to replace IPV4(s)

[oly_r]

Hello all, I have never been one to constantly seek new hardware so I've had my IPV4 for a long time. It is having issues now so I want to see what there is that I can move into. I like the dual 18650 aspect allowing me longer times between replacing the batteries. Not interested in built-in battery mods. I vape in TC mode at 30-40 j using the vaporesso Kanthal Ccoils at .9 ohm in a Melo 2 tank currently. I'm not looking for the high wattage just to have it, i'm not pushing the IPV4 limits at all.

 

[RayofLight62]

Great mod, a piece of history, being the first working TC mod released. I still have it, works fine but I retired it. Also the 9 Volt charger for it.
Can I suggest you take a look to the Yihi Sx mini Q class mini.
It is more than a year old now, maybe two, but still the best dual cell mod available TC-wise.

 

[oly_r]

Great mod, a piece of history, being the first working TC mod released. I still have it, works fine but I retired it. Also the 9 Volt charger for it.
Can I suggest you take a look to the Yihi Sx mini Q class mini.
It is more than a year old now, maybe two, but still the best dual cell mod available TC-wise.

Thanks for the rec, is it really worth $150? I know i'm cheap but i'll pay for quality.

I'm actually sad (i know) that my ipv4 is dying. The fire button is hit or miss lately and i keep getting check battery messages. I really wish i had bought a couple before they were discontinued them.

 

[stols001]

Well I had an IPV-5 whatever you do don't get that. LOL. It just chewed through batteries like it was made of alligator teeth, and no manufacturer of the IPV-5, the RIBBON doesn't help.

If you want something in the medium price range that still does TC well, you have some options, like the Smoant Cylon (one of my favorite mods of all time) or if you want SUPER durability, the Ages Legend is also a favorite mod. It's huge, but it's great, and it still has great form factor. I remain a fan of my Steampunk nano 120 but it's not for everyone that's for sure, but I do think Teslacigs does a pretty fantastic job for a non-TC board. The punk SUCKED though, frankly, it was ugly as sin and I hated I could see my battery and it was so boxy and heavy it hurt my hands. I sold it to a dude who hopefully doesn't hate me now, but seriously.

If I were looking at the ONE, the ONE mod that I was gonna use for a long time, I would spring the extra amount and get a DNA-C board, I really would.

But there is tons of options out there and Etc. Or, I can send you my IPV-5 lol, it's pretty beat up and still works, you should probably buy about 50 batteries up front, though, just saying. LOL.

Anna

 

[oly_r]

Yeah the tons of options is what is killing me. I haven't ever really been into the nitnoid technology of vaping (i'm a computer geek so you'd think i would be.) I've always had good results with recommendations from ECF and just have too many hobbies to get deep in Vape tech.

I probably should have added i do have a stock of Samsung 25r batteries. Maybe i don't need dual 18650 but that is just what i'm used to. (Just saw this one as a possible HCigar VT75C DNA75 Color TC Box Mod, this one was out of stock Think Vape Finder DNA75C)

Ok, so by DNA-C i just look for DNA with number ending with a C, correct?

 

[Myk]

You are not vaping TC with Kanthal on an IPV4.

A GeekVape Aegis Legend has the same feel as the IPV4. I'd have some trepidation recommending it for TC (works fine for me and RTA SS mesh in TC but others have some complaints with higher mass builds) but since you aren't using a TC capable coil that's not really an issue.

You do have NI-200 and SS coils available for what you are using if you want to actually use TC.

 

[oly_r]

You are not vaping TC with Kanthal on an IPV4.

A GeekVape Aegis Legend has the same feel as the IPV4. I'd have some trepidation recommending it for TC (works fine for me and RTA SS mesh in TC but others have some complaints with higher mass builds) but since you aren't using a TC capable coil that's not really an issue.

You do have NI-200 and SS coils available for what you are using if you want to actually use TC.

Interesting since i have Vaporesso .9 ohm kanthal ccoils in melo 2 tank on the ipv4(upgraded to s), set to tc 35j, 250deg.

 

[Myk]

Interesting since i have Vaporesso .9 ohm kanthal ccoils in melo 2 tank on the ipv4(upgraded to s), set to tc 35j, 250deg.

I've only heard of one mod (Hohm Wrecker) that claims kanthal TC and it's not around any more.
Generally Kanthal doesn't have enough resistance variation with temperature to do TC.

I just tried it on my IPV4, upgraded to 120w. 212°F or 430°F is the same. And it doesn't kick me out of TC with kanthal in. Just because that's the mode I have it in doesn't mean that's what it's doing.
Whatever you're setting the watts (wrongly called joule) is what you're vaping.

With the IPV4 it only does TC with Ni-200 or Titanium and you can't adjust the TCR for other wire material. So your available options for that mod/tank for TC is the NI-200 coils. Although I recall some getting SS to work with the TI setting and adjusting the temperature to a lower setting, I don't recall the offset they were using.
More modern TC mods should be able to do TC with NI, TI and SS.

If you were actually vaping in TC you could set the joules to the highest setting, it would get to temperature fast and not burn.
I assume 250°C or 482°F, which is getting into burnt hit zone.
What you're doing is keeping it from burning by only applying 35w the same as if you were in wattage mod vaping at 35w.

If temperature control is working you should be able to put a dry coil in it with the temperature set to 205°C/400°F and it won't burn the cotton no matter how many watts you tell it to fire at. With a bare coil it will barely turn it dull red at the highest temperature setting no matter how long you press the button.

 

[Myk]

Interesting since i have Vaporesso .9 ohm kanthal ccoils in melo 2 tank on the ipv4(upgraded to s), set to tc 35j, 250deg.

Curious which wire you're telling it you're using, TI or NI?

 

[Fidola13]

Thanks for the rec, is it really worth $150? I know i'm cheap but i'll pay for quality.

I'm actually sad (i know) that my ipv4 is dying. The fire button is hit or miss lately and i keep getting check battery messages. I really wish i had bought a couple before they were discontinued them.

Yes it is worth it!!

 

[Myk]

Well I had an IPV-5 whatever you do don't get that. LOL. It just chewed through batteries like it was made of alligator teeth, and no manufacturer of the IPV-5, the RIBBON doesn't help.

Flashbacks to that when I pulled the IPV4 out of storage. Luckily I used the batteries that were used with it so nothing new got chewed up. Oh yeah, I have to pry and push these batteries out.

Oh well, I've been meaning to rewrap/color code these batteries anyway.

 

[stols001]

Yeah stop doing that, unless you want your next mod to be a Hohm Wrecker or whatever. I have one, but you can't have it. I like to vape kanthal in TC sometimes and it's also not an eater of batteries.

I don't quite know what the IPV-4 is doing to that coil but whatever's happening, you probably don't want it to be happening. I mean, that's more of a guess, but really, make sure you are using TC capable wire with your next mod stainless steel is kind of nice, it's like the hermaphrodite of wires, you can vape it in either mode.

Anna

 

[Myk]

Yeah stop doing that, unless you want your next mod to be a Hohm Wrecker or whatever. I have one, but you can't have it. I like to vape kanthal in TC sometimes and it's also not an eater of batteries.

I don't quite know what the IPV-4 is doing to that coil but whatever's happening, you probably don't want it to be happening. I mean, that's more of a guess, but really, make sure you are using TC capable wire with your next mod stainless steel is kind of nice, it's like the hermaphrodite of wires, you can vape it in either mode.

Anna

I would like a Hohm Wrecker. I have so much kanthal spools. I didn't trust that kanthal TC was possible so I never jumped. Can I have it?

I'm sure it's the 35w setting that is keeping it from burning with kanthal in TC. If it was getting enough wattage to burn I'm sure it would trying to make the resistance increase.
I can put one of my .5Ω SS coils in wattage mode at 20-30w and vape like I never left TC. I think IPVs and TI are where I settled into 75w for TC to get fast ramp up without porpoising.

 

[oly_r]

Wow, I've been using this setup for over 4 years. Never had any issues, no burning at all. I just put batteries back in it and cycled through the options and it shows TI01 for coil. So can I use the remaining Kanthal coils in Wattage mode without any problems?

So i guess my question is What is a good mod and atomizer combo for someone that thought he was using TC?

 

[Myk]

Wow, I've been using this setup for over 4 years. Never had any issues, no burning at all. I just put batteries back in it and cycled through the options and it shows TI01 for coil. So can I use the remaining Kanthal coils in Wattage mode without any problems?

Yes, I'm sure wattage is what you were doing anyway.

I'm not sure if it would sense "no liquid" to have saved you from dry hits, you may have got lucky. I had it saying that when I first tried a gennie that I know is kanthal but I think I forgot to set the coil resistance so it was way off.

So i guess my question is What is a good mod and atomizer combo for someone that thought he was using TC?

LOL
I think most TC works, some is less finicky than others.
The key I learned on the IPVs is to lock the resistance at the right temperature. Too hot of a lock in means burn, too cold is weak. With the IPVs you could see the resistance to 3 digits. Other mods you blindly lock it in based on taste.
From what I understand DNA is nice mostly because of the computer software.
I understand that because of Arctic Fox third party firmware on my Joyetechs and Wismec. You can manually enter the resistance. And it can monitor the resistance to figure out the cold resistance to give you a good idea of where it should be.

I still sort of lean towards Aegis Legend because of the similar shape. I would hope TC would work for you with the right TC coils but I can't be positive because of other's reports.

I'm pretty sure you'd like it in wattage at 35w

 

[oly_r]

OK Now i'm really confused. Looking at Geekvape for the Aegis is says:

Product Features:

• 5 to 200W Output
  • GeekVape Chip
    • Seven Total Output Modes
  • 0.05 to 3.0 ohm Atomizer Resistance Range
• Temperature Control Suite
  • Ni200 Nickel Support
  • Titanium Support
  • SS316 Support
  • Kanthal Support <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< WHAT
  • POWER Support
  • TCR Mod
  • VPC Support

 

[TrollDragon]

I would like a Hohm Wrecker. I have so much kanthal spools. I didn't trust that kanthal TC was possible so I never jumped. Can I have it?

You can still get Slice's from VaporCube for less than $20 if you want to play with the FSK chip and TC Kanthal. It's not a Wrecker but works exactly the same.

The only difference between the SE and LE versions is the case marking and a 3A charge circuit in the LE.
VaporCube | Home of the Lower than Low Pricing on High Priced Vapes

 

[TrollDragon]

Interesting since i have Vaporesso .9 ohm kanthal ccoils in melo 2 tank on the ipv4(upgraded to s), set to tc 35j, 250deg.

You are definitely not using TC 250°F wouldn't provide any vapor on a working TC setup of any kind. The iPV gear was so poor at TC that is basically running in 35W power mode.

That's how we used to get around the lack of buck functionality on the iPV D2. Switch it into TC mode with regular wire so it would fire a low resistance coil at your chosen power level, instead of full power.

Those were such ugly times in the early days of TC.

 

[Myk]

OK Now i'm really confused. Looking at Geekvape for the Aegis is says:

Product Features:

• 5 to 200W Output
  • GeekVape Chip
    • Seven Total Output Modes
  • 0.05 to 3.0 ohm Atomizer Resistance Range
• Temperature Control Suite
  • Ni200 Nickel Support
  • Titanium Support
  • SS316 Support
  • Kanthal Support <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< WHAT
  • POWER Support
  • TCR Mod
  • VPC Support

VaporDNA?
Seems like random bullet points.

Eciggity words it better,
Output Mode: POWER / TC-Ni / TC-Ti / TC-SS316 / TCR / VPC / BYPASS

 

[Baditude]

Thanks for the rec, is it really worth $150? I know i'm cheap but i'll pay for quality.

I think paying more for a DNA or Yihi chip is worth it in the long run. Better battery efficiency, better temp control, equal charge to the batteries should you charge via microUSB. Arguably a smoother vape, too.