So I bought a Nemesis clone from VaporBreak awhile ago and I noticed a problem when it comes to the tube of the nemesis. I was running the nemesis with the kick ring (I only had it on to avoid the crunchy button problem) and I noticed that when I have the nemesis in my hand in between my thumb and point finger, the middle of the mod would very rapidly get hot which I could feel on the web in between my fingers. I took the kick ring off and the problem is still the same. At first I thought it was just heat transferring down the mod, but the space between my rda and the center of the mod would not be even close to the temperature of what I felt. I'm running a stainless steel nemesis with a Nimbus V5 Clone and using either the Sony VTC4 battery, or the new Efest 2500mah battery. Should I start looking into a new mod?
Nemesis body getting hot
- Thread starter Travislavery
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Clean the Threads of both parts well with alcohol.
You should not be having a heat issue with 2 tube sections screwed together.
I have 5 Nemesis Clones. None exhibit this issue.
Heat point is always an indicator of resistance to current flow. This is almost always due to poor/dirty connection between parts.
You should not be having a heat issue with 2 tube sections screwed together.
I have 5 Nemesis Clones. None exhibit this issue.
Heat point is always an indicator of resistance to current flow. This is almost always due to poor/dirty connection between parts.
Before posting my original post, I tried washing everything in soap and water and used a toothbrush to clean everything, I still had the heat problem so I did what you said and used alcohol. So far so good with no heat flashes in the middle. I was using the kick ring to get past the crunchy button issue but if I do not use the kick ring, I need to pull the bottom connector out a bit so that the switch do not get caught on the edges of the mod. If I screw that bottom connector in tightly then I get the crunchy button problem. Should I just keep the nemesis like this or use the kick ring?
That Gap is just plain nasty. Is the switch pin screwed in fully and tight?
If it seems to be working, I'd wash the kick ring and put it back in place. See what happens.
I run the ring on all my Nemesis. All are kicked, but have to adjust the switch pin out a bit to compensate for added length.
You should also break down the switch and thoroughly clean then grease the center shaft. It helps. Disassemble on a table over a baking pan. Tiny parts like to disappear.
If it seems to be working, I'd wash the kick ring and put it back in place. See what happens.
I run the ring on all my Nemesis. All are kicked, but have to adjust the switch pin out a bit to compensate for added length.
You should also break down the switch and thoroughly clean then grease the center shaft. It helps. Disassemble on a table over a baking pan. Tiny parts like to disappear.
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Indeed it is, but I have no idea why I need to do that in order to not have a crunchy button. I put the kick ring back in, which results in me having to have the bottom pin connector a bit loose so there is no gap like in the picture. The result of that is a warm switch, so if I tighten the bottom connector all the way down and take out the kick beauty ring, it results in a stupidly crunchy button that is very hard to push in sometimes. (When I push the button, the switch will unscrew itself sometimes if I'm not REALLY careful.) I am already running magnets for the switch which makes it a LITTLE better than springs, but not by much.
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I must assume from the issues and your not understanding why, this is your first foray into Mechanical Mods.
Nothing is more important making sure each and every part in a mechanical is clean and making good solid contact with its counter parts.
You say the switch is showing heat. I point you back the the last issue and solution.
You say the switch is crunchy. Magnets vs springs has no bearing on the issue. Crunchy is Binding of parts while compressing the switch.
The manufacturers do a very crappy job of cleaning after machining. A quick rinse and wipe before assembling for shipment. Cutting oils, grit and grime come free of charge but are bad for performance.
Nothing is more important making sure each and every part in a mechanical is clean and making good solid contact with its counter parts.
You say the switch is showing heat. I point you back the the last issue and solution.
You say the switch is crunchy. Magnets vs springs has no bearing on the issue. Crunchy is Binding of parts while compressing the switch.
The manufacturers do a very crappy job of cleaning after machining. A quick rinse and wipe before assembling for shipment. Cutting oils, grit and grime come free of charge but are bad for performance.
I wish the problem was as simple as that, I really do. I've cleaned the switch countless times, especially with soap+water and alcohol. I'm going to assume that something, either the switch or the bottom portion of the tube is not exactly straight. It feels as if something is curved just slightly that would make the parts come in contact and lock up but I can't figure it out. I suppose I need to run the kick beauty ring, if I don't I will have to live with a button that fires 3 out of 10 times. If I find the sweet spot by unscrewing the switch slightly I could maybe get 5 out of 10 fires but then most of the time I unscrew the switch slightly when pushing the button.
The switch should NOT be unscrewed at all, period.
If you need, unscrew the center pin of the switch enough to give you a clean throw and just miss the Lock ring at full press. Make sure the switch is threaded in snug(tight but not overly tight)
I had one that bound the switch in place. Barely got it out. took 3 serious thread cleanings before I got it to stop grabbing the switch threads and getting stuck in the tube. Now it threads in/out smooth as silk.
That one Mod gave me more grief than all the others combined but eventually I got everything threading and working properly.
These are now my all time favorites to use and I have 15 Mechanical Mods to choose from as well as a few APV's.
If you need, unscrew the center pin of the switch enough to give you a clean throw and just miss the Lock ring at full press. Make sure the switch is threaded in snug(tight but not overly tight)
I had one that bound the switch in place. Barely got it out. took 3 serious thread cleanings before I got it to stop grabbing the switch threads and getting stuck in the tube. Now it threads in/out smooth as silk.
That one Mod gave me more grief than all the others combined but eventually I got everything threading and working properly.
These are now my all time favorites to use and I have 15 Mechanical Mods to choose from as well as a few APV's.
Well I can't unscrew the center pin at all or else it would give me that ugly gap with the switch like the first picture. I did everything you said and this is the result.
The switch without being pushed in.
Firing the switchThere is still ALOT of space when the switch is fully screwed in with the center pin also fully screwed in. It is sort of hard to pinky fire the switch since it still crunches and gets caught.
This is with the beauty ring + the center pin unscrewed a bit.
Your last pic is correct to what I set up.
With ring, 2-2.5mm gap - just clears lock when firing.
I also use Jacks Lubricant on the switch center post. (pool supply) Very slippery and stays where applied.
Also understand - Pressing on one side of this type of switch will cause some bind 9 out of 10 times. It is forcing the shaft so one side of the bore and most of the clones have a bit to much clearance between the parts. Center pressing should be almost flawless.
With ring, 2-2.5mm gap - just clears lock when firing.
I also use Jacks Lubricant on the switch center post. (pool supply) Very slippery and stays where applied.
Also understand - Pressing on one side of this type of switch will cause some bind 9 out of 10 times. It is forcing the shaft so one side of the bore and most of the clones have a bit to much clearance between the parts. Center pressing should be almost flawless.
Travis, you have two problems... the heat and the crunchy switch. It seems you have beat the heat, so time to work on the switch. I have a Nemi clone also and had some crunching in the switch. So I took the switch apart and lightly sander the outside of the post the switch travels on (the post that the small locating pin fits in), and also sanded the inside of the brass screw in part that rides on that post. I also used some dielectric grease (any auto parts or hardware store carries small tubes for a couple bucks and it's made for electric applications) and the switch was smooth at any angle of hitting the switch. Don't get any grease on the silver plated pin that contacts the battery or the inside of the post that the silver plated pin screws into. My switch was buttery smooth after that. 10 minute job.
Also be aware that the depth of your 510 connector on you atty will affect how far out your switch will be screwed. If you have an atty with a shorter 510 connector you will have to screw in the 510 adjustment pin of the Nemi more, which means you screw in the battery end cap more and may put that switch in a better position to the outside of the bottom tube the switch screws onto. My Trident had a very long 510 connector that I wound up sanding down a bit because the switch didn't feel as good with the switch out farther. My IGO's, Nautilus, and Russian had shorter 510's and were fine. It was still very smooth after sanding and greasing, but it took more pressure when the button was pressed from the side with the Trident before shortening the 510.
Finally, I got the magnetic switch kit from FatDaddyVapes and he also has a different set of silver plated contact pins to allow 1mm throw with the kick extension instead of the normal 2.5mm throw. His magnets are much better (and stronger) that the FT magnets. It was $14 for both sets. I really like them. Didn't make the switch any smoother, it was already smooth, but I like the shorter throw. It just feels better.
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