Nemesis Clone 18650 Mode Not Firing

[munni]

Hi, I thought there was a fasttech Nemesis mega-thread I had come across before but I couldn't find it. I hope this is the right place to post this.

First off, I have to use my kick ring in my nemesis. It currently works in 18350 mode with an AW battery with the kick ring (no kick). When I put it in 18650 mode and press the button, the battery rattles a bit. I can fix this by unscrewing the top screw down a bit and tightening the center post on my RSST, but this isn't that convenient because I can't use rba's without an adjustable center post. I was wondering if anyone else had to use the kick ring and if they were having troubles with 18650 mode. The 18650 battery I'm using is the 1600mah AW and I have a few others that seem to be the same size.

I was thinking of getting the extended positive post but I'm thinking I might run into some problems with this, too, for instance it being too long.

The positive post is screwed in all the way, I tightened it with needle-nose pliers.

 

[Jonathan Tittle]

The Nemesis is more flat-top battery friendly. The button top batteries do require a little more work to position and get working from what I've experienced. I use flat-top only in all of my mods and only use the two larger sections for an 18650 and have no issues regardless of the type of RBA/RTA I put on there. They all take a little adjusting, but the only adjustments I make are to the top pin.

The bottom pin, on mine, is always kept as far down as it'll go. The top pin is released only enough to accommodate the atty.

 

[munni]

Thanks for the reply.

I tried it out with a flat-top but it's having the same effect. I wonder if mine is somehow defective that I need to use the kick ring, and I'm having trouble with an 18650. Unfortunately my Octopus RBA does not have an adjustable top pin and I'm not finding a way to tinker with the setup to get it to fire.

 

[emus]

Make sure both black delrin/plastic insulators are seated properly.
My FT nemmy fits many batts w/o beauty/fuse 5mm ring.
I screw bottom pin tight.
Top pin screws to mate perfectly w/ all my RBAs.

Install RBA flush. Snug top pin. Leave a small gap in body seam. Snug switch to pinch batt. Verify no batt rattle. Close small gap in body.

 

[GreatestUnKnown]

The Nemesis is more flat-top battery friendly. The button top batteries do require a little more work to position and get working from what I've experienced. I use flat-top only in all of my mods and only use the two larger sections for an 18650 and have no issues regardless of the type of RBA/RTA I put on there. They all take a little adjusting, but the only adjustments I make are to the top pin.

The bottom pin, on mine, is always kept as far down as it'll go. The top pin is released only enough to accommodate the atty.

I concur with Tactical, I use flat top 18650s and button top 18350s so with the button top I use the "kick" ring (I actually think it is more a 2cent safety fuse ring but that's too much to say so people call it a kick ring) while with the flat tops I only use the two largest tube sections. You will have to play around with the configuration in order to find out what fits your battery and aesthetics because with the button top AW you might end up with some gap unless you modify your top firing pin or purchase a new one...

The battery rattle tends to suggest that you're experiencing firing issues because inconsistent connection with the battery and your contacts. It sounds like you need to just follow a simple order to deduce where youre finding a "disconnect"

I do not mean to offend you by breaking this down barney style but it is the easiest way to communicate and isolate your issue.

1) install atomizer (or RSST in your case) on the top of the mod flush -your RSST should not need to have the center pin adjusted so secure that 510 connection pin.

2) re-install the mods positive pin snug (not torqued down just "good and tight")

3) ensure the negative pin in the switch is tightened down, although it seems like it could be adjustable, if it is not tight then the switch assembly could come undone while pocketed or during use.

4)install the tube sections you wish to use onto the top section of your mod, this is where the experimenting will start

5) install battery followed by switch assembly. if the switch assembly will not thread throw the "kick" ring in-between the battery tubes and top section of your mod to give you that extra length. If the switch installs and you only have a slight gap (switch threads showing) in-between the switch assembly and the main tube the mod will still fire but it means that the positive battery contact is too long by exactly the same measurement of the gap.

hope this helps and you can play with 18650 mode. I thought using all these different tubes and switch adjustments would get annoying but you start to remember what setups fit which batteries and toppers after awhile.

 

[GreatestUnKnown]

Make sure both black delrin/plastic insulators are seated properly.
My FT nemmy fits many batts w/o beauty/fuse 5mm ring.
I screw bottom pin tight.
Top pin screws to mate perfectly w/ all my RBAs.

Install RBA flush. Snug top pin. Leave a small gap in body seam. Snug switch to pinch batt. Verify no batt rattle. Close small gap in body.

you gave the nice quick dirty version, meanwhile I went full blown "period of instruction"

use his if mine confuses you but the end result should be the same, GL!

 

[emus]

you gave the nice quick dirty version, meanwhile I went full blown "period of instruction"

use his if mine confuses you but the end result should be the same, GL!

I just gave the lazy foggy version.

The top black delrin/plastic insulator must be flush w/ top cap bottom.

 

[munni]

Hey, guys, thanks so much for all the support. I'm getting the suspicion there's some user error on my part, but I'm having trouble locating it.

@emus
I notice when you take yours apart the thing with the magnet is separate from the battery. I can't do this with mine, as far as I know. Also, I'm not seeing that little silver gear thing. Where does that go? And is the delrin/plastic insulator the piece that you align with the airholes?

@GreatestUnknown
No offense taken! In fact, I think I'm missing something basic, and basic instructions are awesome. Unfortunately, I'm having trouble with step 5. I guess the thing is that there isn't a slight gap when I install the body onto the switch, it's the opposite--that the battery is not connecting with both ends when I press the button. Without the kick the body won't thread to the switch.

Thanks for bearing with me, guys.

 

[emus]

The gear is a lock washer shim I found in my garage to fine tune the throw; not required.

If you posted some top cap and switch pics we could probably identify problem immediately.

Is the black delrin insulator which the 510 silver pin screws into flush with top cap?

Is the silver plated bottom pin about 1/16" below black switch delrin?

 

[munni]

Emus, I think the problem is where you say "snug switch to pinch battery." If the switch is where the big black magnet is, that thing is stuck in there, and I don't want to force it out for fear of breaking something. I've attached pics of the top cap and the switch.


edit: aha! I think I've got it. Just wedged something under the magnet and I'm following emus instructions now. Will report back soon, but thanks so much I feel like I learned tremendously about my mod today.

edit2: Got everything sorted, I hadn't realized you could just turn the switch. I think early on I tightened it all the way and that was what was giving me difficulties. Again, thanks for bearing with me.

 

[emus]

That is not a black magnet it is a black insulator.
Make sure the black faces up.

Have a pic of assembled switch?

 

[munni]

I don't know how the insulator got flipped upside down, the only thing I can think of was when I first got the mod the switch was very loose and when I put the safety on and took it off, the whole thing popped off. So without knowing what I was doing I put it back together (thank god I found that tiny rod). I recommend for anyone else having problems to watch this on assembling your nemesis.

Here is the switch:

Thanks again for the help it really means a lot and I hope I can provide the same service to a noobie someday.

 

[emus]

Good.
You got it.

I don't use that tiny rod anyway but may have to when magnets arrive.

 

[Sucker_dad]

Good to know when mine arrives.

 

[emus]

My FT brass nemmy came w/ a great switch; unlike my FT SS Nemmy.

I did DX magnet upgrade on both; does not fix crunch or bind.

I lubed both w/ axle grease and tossed the locking pins. The greased magnet switch still has enough friction w/o locking pin key to position switch elevation. I only recommend pin toss to advanced modders.

 

[Azyre]

I've gone through this thread twice and still having trouble with my new FT brass nemmy clone.
I cannot get the switch to make contact with the battery. I'm not using the kick tube and am using a variety of flattop 18650's. The battery rattles in the tube with or without the switch thrown. I've taken it completely apart and back together again. I've replaced the spring (s) with magnets. Nothing seems to work. It's not the atty connection at the cap, I'm checking it with a multimeter.
Maybe I got a bad one...

 

[emus]

I've gone through this thread twice and still having trouble with my new FT brass nemmy clone.
I cannot get the switch to make contact with the battery. I'm not using the kick tube and am using a variety of flattop 18650's. The battery rattles in the tube with or without the switch thrown. I've taken it completely apart and back together again. I've replaced the spring (s) with magnets. Nothing seems to work. It's not the atty connection at the cap, I'm checking it with a multimeter.
Maybe I got a bad one...

Did you remove the 4mm body ring?

 

[mainusch]

I've gone through this thread twice and still having trouble with my new FT brass nemmy clone.
I cannot get the switch to make contact with the battery. I'm not using the kick tube and am using a variety of flattop 18650's. The battery rattles in the tube with or without the switch thrown. I've taken it completely apart and back together again. I've replaced the spring (s) with magnets. Nothing seems to work. It's not the atty connection at the cap, I'm checking it with a multimeter.
Maybe I got a bad one...

Try this. Take all tubes apart. Start with just the top cap with the screw on it. screw the atty onto the topcap till its flush. Tighten the screw finger tight agains the atty. There should be three tubes remaining and a small threaded ring. take the shortest tube and put it aside. should have two tubes left. one has the lock ring on it and the switch. take the other tube and screw it onto the bottom of the topcap and atty. Now take the bottom tube and remove the switch entirely. screw that onto the bottom. You should now have the atty at the top, the topcap, the long tube, then the bottom tube with the lock ring. Slide the battery positive end first into the bottom. Attach the switch to the bottom and tighten till you feel resistance. if the switch goes all the way in and cannot be pressed, then remove it and rotate the screw in the bottom of the switch so that it comes out of the switch further and try putting the switch back in. you have to adjust that screw until the bottom of the button almost reaches the bottom of the lock ring but still has some space. If you put the switch in and it works but there is a huge gap between the bottom of the button and the lock ring it can be fixed by removing the switch and turning the screw so that it goes down further into the switch. Once you have it adjusted properly you shouldn't see any of the brass threads on the switch when it is not pressed and when pressed fully there shuold be just a slight gap between the button and the lock ring. also make sure the lock ring is all the way up. If you try all of that and can't get the switch to sit properly, then take the small ring that was left over and place it anywherebetween two body tubes and re-try the adjustments to the switch again.
Adjusted properly you should not see any of the threads of the switch.

 

[mainusch]

Good.
You got it.

I don't use that tiny rod anyway but may have to when magnets arrive.

The tiny rod in the switch needs to be there. what it does is it prevents the button from spinning freely. with the rod missing the button can spin and the brass threads won't loosen or tighten. With the rod in there it forces the threads to turn. I have two clones and on one the rod was glued in place and the other is free to fall out when i disassemble the switch. next time i clean the other switch i will glue the rod in place on that one too.

 

[emus]

The tiny rod in the switch needs to be there. what it does is it prevents the button from spinning freely. with the rod missing the button can spin and the brass threads won't loosen or tighten. With the rod in there it forces the threads to turn. I have two clones and on one the rod was glued in place and the other is free to fall out when i disassemble the switch. next time i clean the other switch i will glue the rod in place on that one too.

I have 3 Nemesis clones.
I removed pin from all 3 because I prefer a spinning switch button.
Switch post grease provides enough friction to position switch.
After positioning switch I cinch body gap and batt is held firm, no gaps. My pinky can happily spin the switch w/o loosening batt clamp force. Spinning switch actuation is a little smoother than pinned switch.