Nemesis Clone questions
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What the mod will handle will depend on its build quality(Lots on manufacturers) and how well you maintain it.
Simple - If the switch gets warm/hot - you need to re-think your game.
Simple - If the switch gets warm/hot - you need to re-think your game.
If the switch is getting hot, it means the switch is not able to pass current without excessive resistance. Hence the heat, much like the coil you are trying to do the same to.
You may be able to fix, clean or adjust the fit to elimenate the problem. It depends on the design and fit of the parts in the switch. Some are better than others.
35 amps is the max pulse rating for that LG battery if memory serves me correctly. I believe the continuous rating is 20 amps. So to give yourself a safety buffer you may want to keep your builds in the .3 ohm and above zone. Double check my amp guesstimate first though.
I feel that the Omega is hell to build on, with the high walls, low airholes and no post holes. Best cloud chucking build I've come up with is a single parallel 24ga macro coil (1/8" drill bit) at .35 ohms. Others more skilled than I with the Omega can probably come up with something better. But that build could fog a room easily.
It's not your nemesis mod that will determine the wattage, it's the coil build plus battery voltage. I can push out well over 100 watts with my nemesis mods, but personal safety comes in the way of that more often than not. If you're really concerned with wattage output, there are regulated mods out there that can go to 120 watts and beyond.
Last but not least, consider switching to Sony VTC5 batteries. Much safer for the sub-ohm builds you're contemplating.
I feel that the Omega is hell to build on, with the high walls, low airholes and no post holes. Best cloud chucking build I've come up with is a single parallel 24ga macro coil (1/8" drill bit) at .35 ohms. Others more skilled than I with the Omega can probably come up with something better. But that build could fog a room easily.
It's not your nemesis mod that will determine the wattage, it's the coil build plus battery voltage. I can push out well over 100 watts with my nemesis mods, but personal safety comes in the way of that more often than not. If you're really concerned with wattage output, there are regulated mods out there that can go to 120 watts and beyond.
Last but not least, consider switching to Sony VTC5 batteries. Much safer for the sub-ohm builds you're contemplating.
For cloud chasing I'd recommend a different battery a Sony VTC 4 or VTC5. The VTC5 has more mah but the VTC4 has more of a punch to it. The battery you are using now, I believe is the same battery Efest re-wraps and sells as their "35 amp" battery but is actually only 20 amps continuous.
Cloud chasing is more than just your build, there's a lot more to it than most people don't know.
Last 28 gauge isn't for chasing clouds.
Before you get into cloud chasing and getting the right wire for it, you seriously need to upgrade your battery.
Then Pay attention to the Videos - He clearly explains what and how.
True, and you also have to pay attention to the finally ohms and calculate the amps drawn and make sure your battery can safely handle it.
I have a physics BS so ohms law is nothing new to me
, calculating watts and amp draw. If I'm running nothing more than .3ohms off the fresh battery that's only 14amps continuous being used I also have a vtc3 with 30amp continuous rating
I have a physics BS so ohms law is nothing new to me
I also have a vtc3 with 30amp continuous rating
When someone asks the question 'How bad is it if the switch gets hot ? ', it pretty much convinces me they don't understand electricity or basic electrical circuits. They probably would also not understand how bad it would be if a electrical wire in their house was heating up. I'm not trying to give you a hard time. Think about it for a minute and I hope you'll see where I'm coming from.
There are a few things you should know before you start using mechanical mods. If any part of your mod is heating up, stop and fix it. That heat is from excess resistance between contact surfaces and it's going to get worse over time. The only heat should be coming from the atty. Even if your build in the atty is a safe resistance you can have a short in the mod or the atty. A hard short of the battery will cause it to heat up quickly and if it gets hot enough it will vent. The VTC3 is a hybrid cell and will not explode when it vents. Aim to change your battery out when it gets to no less than 3.6V. Have a DMM, know it and use it to check atty resistance and battery voltage. Do not vape burnt juice, that makes very unhealthy vapor. Again, stop vaping and fix the problem. There's a bunch more, but these are I believe the most important safety concerns.
Here's Rip Trippers on cloud chasing 101 part 1 and part 2. For good cloud chasing builds see more of his videos.
HTH.
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I agree completly and bit my tongue rather than respond to the op. After all, with a physics degree, who am I to argue. I have a lowly 3 years higher education and no degree but enjoy personal persuits in fields suited for an EE.
All is good however as in this hobby, I rather enjoy the simple yet slightly complicated nature of our high current and sometimes elegantly designed solutions to vaping.
People just don't understand.
Does not matter what you know or think you know. It is the unknown that jumps out and bites you.
I take all precaution in building and vaping and generally keep my gear in good shape.
Trashed my first mod in under 1 second Today firing a Dual coil 1ohm Trident Dripper.
Mod is a Side button, Spring supported battery design.
Center post looks to have gradually shifted off center causing Light switch contact(weak)
I had taken several hits and topped off a few times. No indications of a problem. No miss-fires and no heat build up.
Then it happened.
Pressed the button and instantly felt the super heated switch. Released it instantly to.
Cracked the Atty loose just in case and removed the top to dump the battery.
Battery was barely warm. Hmmmm.........
Popped the Atty on the Meter - 1.0ohm. Hmmm.........
Unscrewed the bottom cap to find a collapsed, discolored, broken spring.
After fiddling I placed the bottom cap back in the mod and turned slowly to see it oscillating off center at the top.
Mod is repairable and will be..........later
Point is - YOU NEVER KNOW - no matter how much you know
Does not matter what you know or think you know. It is the unknown that jumps out and bites you.
I take all precaution in building and vaping and generally keep my gear in good shape.
Trashed my first mod in under 1 second Today firing a Dual coil 1ohm Trident Dripper.
Mod is a Side button, Spring supported battery design.
Center post looks to have gradually shifted off center causing Light switch contact(weak)
I had taken several hits and topped off a few times. No indications of a problem. No miss-fires and no heat build up.
Then it happened.
Pressed the button and instantly felt the super heated switch. Released it instantly to.
Cracked the Atty loose just in case and removed the top to dump the battery.
Battery was barely warm. Hmmmm.........
Popped the Atty on the Meter - 1.0ohm. Hmmm.........
Unscrewed the bottom cap to find a collapsed, discolored, broken spring.
After fiddling I placed the bottom cap back in the mod and turned slowly to see it oscillating off center at the top.
Mod is repairable and will be..........later
Point is - YOU NEVER KNOW - no matter how much you know
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