Nemesis kicker and batterieS
- Thread starter ruv123
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
I'd recommend AW IMR, MNKE, Sony, or Panasonic high drain batteries. The kick is made by evolv. There is also a kick module made by sigelei. Just look up Evolv Kick online and there are multiple places that sell them.
For the Nemisis my first choice is the Genuine Evolv Kick 2
While the Evolv Kick cost a little more here's why.
1. It's the most powerful regulator in its class, from 5 to 15 watts (the clones top out at 10 or 12 watts).
2. It offers a sub-ohm mode. This means if you've the right batteries, you can use atties as low as 0.5 Ohms and still get the thermal, short circuit, and over drain protection. Note that in this mode you won't be able to buck to lower wattage, but then again if you're going to the trouble to sub-ohm then you're looking for the highest wattage possible. None of the clones will do this.
3. It's built better...with dual gold plated spring pins making contact to the inner sleeve of your mod. Evolv is US based and has a good reputation for quality customer service.
4. DC signal that is solid and steady. (No rattle snake PWM stuff).
My second choice for a Nemisis style mod is the Artisan Crown 2.0.
The big plus of this regulator is that you can adjust it without opening the mod and using some tool to turn a pot. You adjust it by a series of short and long presses to the mod's main fire button (it beeps and sings to you for user feedback). Like the Evolv Kick...the Crown also uses DC circuitry, and provides similar safety features. It also comes with a magnetized PTC fuse (optional with telescoping or spring loaded mods, but used as an extender with the Nemisis). Where it falls short of the Evolv Kick 2 is that it can't do sub Ohm atties. The VW mode doesn't have as much resolution as the Evolv Kick (setting fractions of watts). In VW mode, the Crown tops out at 10 watts; however, there is an interesting plus. It can also be used in VV mode from 3.5v to 5.5v (0.2v increments), so with the right resistance atty it's possible to get up to 15 watts (maybe even beyond).
With a Nemisis, it's really easy to get to a Kick 2 for adjustments, just take off the top most cap and the pot is right there for adjustment (but you'll still need a tool to turn the pot)...so...the Kick 2 cost a little more and offers more VW power and resolution for the money. The Crown costs a little less, has the added benefit of button pushes to adjust it, but isn't quite as powerful/versatile when it comes to VW power range and atomizer resistance choices.
The clones from Smoktech and Segelie can be found for half the price of the two mentioned above. They generally regulate from 5 to 12 watts. They use a pot to adjust like the Evolv Kick. Some of them are said to use PWM instead of DC, which means they might have a bit of a rattlesnake sound when using them.
I've used Evolv Kicks and Artisan Crowns for a long time now. Both have held up and perform really well. I find battery life between charges to be similar for all my Kicks and Crowns when comparing similar settings. I tend to use the Kick in the Nemisis like stuff (where the top screws off) and I drop the Crowns in mods where it's a bit more of a pain to fish out the regulator for adjustments (Only the bottom comes off).
While the Evolv Kick cost a little more here's why.
1. It's the most powerful regulator in its class, from 5 to 15 watts (the clones top out at 10 or 12 watts).
2. It offers a sub-ohm mode. This means if you've the right batteries, you can use atties as low as 0.5 Ohms and still get the thermal, short circuit, and over drain protection. Note that in this mode you won't be able to buck to lower wattage, but then again if you're going to the trouble to sub-ohm then you're looking for the highest wattage possible. None of the clones will do this.
3. It's built better...with dual gold plated spring pins making contact to the inner sleeve of your mod. Evolv is US based and has a good reputation for quality customer service.
4. DC signal that is solid and steady. (No rattle snake PWM stuff).
My second choice for a Nemisis style mod is the Artisan Crown 2.0.
The big plus of this regulator is that you can adjust it without opening the mod and using some tool to turn a pot. You adjust it by a series of short and long presses to the mod's main fire button (it beeps and sings to you for user feedback). Like the Evolv Kick...the Crown also uses DC circuitry, and provides similar safety features. It also comes with a magnetized PTC fuse (optional with telescoping or spring loaded mods, but used as an extender with the Nemisis). Where it falls short of the Evolv Kick 2 is that it can't do sub Ohm atties. The VW mode doesn't have as much resolution as the Evolv Kick (setting fractions of watts). In VW mode, the Crown tops out at 10 watts; however, there is an interesting plus. It can also be used in VV mode from 3.5v to 5.5v (0.2v increments), so with the right resistance atty it's possible to get up to 15 watts (maybe even beyond).
With a Nemisis, it's really easy to get to a Kick 2 for adjustments, just take off the top most cap and the pot is right there for adjustment (but you'll still need a tool to turn the pot)...so...the Kick 2 cost a little more and offers more VW power and resolution for the money. The Crown costs a little less, has the added benefit of button pushes to adjust it, but isn't quite as powerful/versatile when it comes to VW power range and atomizer resistance choices.
The clones from Smoktech and Segelie can be found for half the price of the two mentioned above. They generally regulate from 5 to 12 watts. They use a pot to adjust like the Evolv Kick. Some of them are said to use PWM instead of DC, which means they might have a bit of a rattlesnake sound when using them.
I've used Evolv Kicks and Artisan Crowns for a long time now. Both have held up and perform really well. I find battery life between charges to be similar for all my Kicks and Crowns when comparing similar settings. I tend to use the Kick in the Nemisis like stuff (where the top screws off) and I drop the Crowns in mods where it's a bit more of a pain to fish out the regulator for adjustments (Only the bottom comes off).
Last edited:
Yes - what Credo said. I agree word for blessed word. Be sure to use the extra little ring on the Nemmy when using a kick (it came with the mod).
On batteries:
If you're sticking with normal atties (not sub-ohm stuff) and want long battery life between charges the Hybrid IMR batteries should be safe and quite good (should be safe with a Kick or Crown as well).
As an example: Panasonic High Drain NCR18650PF Hybrid 2900mAh Flat Top
This is a 10amp CDR cell. DO NOT SUBOHM with it.
If you plan to venture into higher current applications (sub-ohm) definately have a look at Baditude's blog:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-9-battery-basics-mods-imr-protected-icr.html
Make sure what ever you choose is properly rated for your application.
If you're sticking with normal atties (not sub-ohm stuff) and want long battery life between charges the Hybrid IMR batteries should be safe and quite good (should be safe with a Kick or Crown as well).
As an example: Panasonic High Drain NCR18650PF Hybrid 2900mAh Flat Top
This is a 10amp CDR cell. DO NOT SUBOHM with it.
If you plan to venture into higher current applications (sub-ohm) definately have a look at Baditude's blog:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-9-battery-basics-mods-imr-protected-icr.html
Make sure what ever you choose is properly rated for your application.
Last edited:
As a bare minimum, there are E-Cig safety fuse boards for mech mods like this one here: 7amp 2 Penny Safety Fuse Board
-- Glenn
-- Glenn
Be aware that the Kick does take up some room inside the battery housing. Most 18650 mods require that you drop down a battery size (18490/18500) in order to fit both the Kick and the battery. Also know that the Kick requires using "high drain" batteries, which are IMR or hybrid batteries.
mechanical mod with a KickBATTERY BASICS FOR MODS: IMR OR PROTECTED ICR?
What juice attachments you plan to use on your mechanical mod will determine which batteries will work best for that application:
- If using regular factory-made attachments (atomizers, clearomizers, cartomizers, etc) focus more on higher mAh ratings on the battery.
- If you are going to be sub-ohm vaping with rebuildables, then focus on higher amps continuous discharge rate.
Last edited:
Just to be clear.
the kick has safety features but it sounds like you are thinking of a fuse.
and FWIW most Nemi's come with a Kick ring.
and Please dont try to cheap out on batteries
the kick has safety features but it sounds like you are thinking of a fuse.
and FWIW most Nemi's come with a Kick ring.
and Please dont try to cheap out on batteries
Thrasher brings up a good point. A Kick and a Vape Safe Fuse are two entirely different things.
A Vape Safe Fuse fits on the bottom (negative end) of the battery and prevents a battery to short circuit and over heat.
A Kick is a drop in module that fits on top of the battery (positive end). It regulates the voltage from the battery, and can be used to turn a mechanical mod into a variable wattage regulated mod. Because of this, it has some inherent built-in protective circuitry.
A Vape Safe Fuse fits on the bottom (negative end) of the battery and prevents a battery to short circuit and over heat.
A Kick is a drop in module that fits on top of the battery (positive end). It regulates the voltage from the battery, and can be used to turn a mechanical mod into a variable wattage regulated mod. Because of this, it has some inherent built-in protective circuitry.
With the Nemisis you CAN Kick or Crown an 18650. People call it a 'kick ring' but it can also be coupled with the switch base to put the mod into 18500 mode. So technically the Nemisis kit comes with 1 18350 base/switch assembly, 1 18500 extension, 1 18650 extension, and 1 fuse extension. You just swap and stack parts to get the sleeve length you want. Using both the 18500 and 18650 extensions gives you plenty of room to kick an 18650.
Nemisis kits should also come with a tiny 4ish mm fuse ring (VapeSafe, Shortstop, etc). With a Kick or Crown either one, you won't need the smallest ring. With a Crown, you will need the included VapeSafe fuse as a battery extender (The Artisan Crown itself is shorter than a Kick).
The only protection the 2cent fuse gives is 'short circuit' protection. It'll blow if the current tops a certian amperage for a certian amount of time (usually around 7 amps). Most people put it at the negative end of the battery (especially with bottom fire buttons...also protects the negative battery post from dents/scratches/punctures from button contact), but it can also be used on the positive most end (Some rare mods with odd bottom switches require Crown users to put the VapeSafe upside down on top of the crown instead of on the bottom of the battery. The point here is, it will protect from either 'end' of the battery-booster circuit, even if it's flipped upside down.).
The current fuse does not provide thermal protection, or battery over-drain protection.
Some of the current fuses use PTC technology (VapeSafe, ShortStop), which means if they trip...they will reset themselves after they cool down (might take a few seconds, might take several minutes) and can be used again. Eventually they will wear out if tripped often...but they should last for several shorts before becoming toast. These tend to cost from $8 to $15 each on most of the US vendor sites I've seen.
Some 2cent current fuses use a one time fuse. If it blows...you either solder on a new surface mount fuse...or replace the whole button. I've seen these range from $2 - $15 each in browsing US vendors. I'm pretty sure the ones I've seen were by SmokTech, but not absolutely positive.
Nemisis kits should also come with a tiny 4ish mm fuse ring (VapeSafe, Shortstop, etc). With a Kick or Crown either one, you won't need the smallest ring. With a Crown, you will need the included VapeSafe fuse as a battery extender (The Artisan Crown itself is shorter than a Kick).
The only protection the 2cent fuse gives is 'short circuit' protection. It'll blow if the current tops a certian amperage for a certian amount of time (usually around 7 amps). Most people put it at the negative end of the battery (especially with bottom fire buttons...also protects the negative battery post from dents/scratches/punctures from button contact), but it can also be used on the positive most end (Some rare mods with odd bottom switches require Crown users to put the VapeSafe upside down on top of the crown instead of on the bottom of the battery. The point here is, it will protect from either 'end' of the battery-booster circuit, even if it's flipped upside down.).
The current fuse does not provide thermal protection, or battery over-drain protection.
Some of the current fuses use PTC technology (VapeSafe, ShortStop), which means if they trip...they will reset themselves after they cool down (might take a few seconds, might take several minutes) and can be used again. Eventually they will wear out if tripped often...but they should last for several shorts before becoming toast. These tend to cost from $8 to $15 each on most of the US vendor sites I've seen.
Some 2cent current fuses use a one time fuse. If it blows...you either solder on a new surface mount fuse...or replace the whole button. I've seen these range from $2 - $15 each in browsing US vendors. I'm pretty sure the ones I've seen were by SmokTech, but not absolutely positive.
Last edited:
- Status
