Only happens with kick? Me's confused too..maybe the buck circuit isn't functioning properly..try it with the Sony's discharged a good bit. They blow the red efests out of the water..with voltage drop.
Nemesis Nightmare
- Thread starter Weedity
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Only happens with kick? Me's confused too..maybe the buck circuit isn't functioning properly..try it with the Sony's discharged a good bit. They blow the red efests out of the water..with voltage drop.
Well, will see if there's a difference. I use the black efest imr 2250 mah. This is kind to the kick. With the same topper and the same wattage dialed in, the Sony causes the topper to get the burnt taste when the efest doesn't.
Don't know what it is. Efest are button top, Sony are flat top. Without the kick, I tend to only use the Sony and rda or rba. The kick I'll use a pt2.
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What wattage setting are you at? for some reason I deleted that when I revised my post before sending...an important question.
Let me preface. I have rebuilt the Kanger PT2. I typically vape around 9-9.5 watts on my vv device. 7-8ish if I'm using the kick/Sony battery, and it still burns. I replace the battery with the efest and I can turn it up without issue.
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Do you have an inline volt meter? Measure batteries under same load. I would suspect the efest is sagging... they tend to do that. Only explanation I have that makes sense to me.
Do you have a vv mod to compare same power levels with?
Also, 18350 red efests are 6.4amp continuous. Unless you meant 700mAh efests..
37, ph0n3 h0m3.
Do you have a vv mod to compare same power levels with?
Also, 18350 red efests are 6.4amp continuous. Unless you meant 700mAh efests..
37, ph0n3 h0m3.
The 18350s don't have a problem either. I have an inline volt meter, but it doesn't work with the kick. Probably uses the 33.3 chip.
I would think that kick should be regulating properly and the load shouldn't effect this if the kick were working as designed.
I don't have a replaceable battery vv mod at this time. The one I had was returned and the inline meter wouldn't work because of the chip set.
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It has resistance when it first is being screwed in, after about halfway in it screws in just fine. Doesn't matter how I put it in, always resistance at first. What is running a tap through it?
Okay, lets Back up and Punt.
People tend to constantly screw up mods(myself included) and most of the time Blame the quality of the mod.
New Mod - WOW that thing looks SWEET!!!!!!
STOP!!! DO NOT TEST IT OUT YET!!!!
Don't even press the switch, nope not even once!
Time for a Bath in a Good Solvent type solution - Even Dawn dish soap may work.
I use an Ultrasonic Cleaner and Orange cleaning solution on ALL my new gear.
If anyone thinks they can SEE micro fine metal particles in threading and tiny nooks and crevices they are WRONG.
This left over machining debris is slow death for a mod. Filing and chewing away at parts.
Clean, clean, hell - clean again. You cannot hurt a Mechanical by making sure it is clean.
Next - Lube if you feel you need it - Recommended for Dissimilar Metal threading or Aluminum threading.
Most SS to SS or Brass to Brass is not an issue.
Only use enough Lube to Lightly coat threading and Slide areas(switch)
A Conductive Grease is recommended!
Step 3 - Carefully start threading on each piece and work in/out SEVERAL times to confirm fit and to chase any suspect threads clean.
If any sections are unusually stubborn, once working - RE-CLEAN those Sections and re-lube.
Pay special attention to switches!!!!
Switches, properly assembled do NOT just fall apart.
1) switch pin is Not properly tightened
2) using as adjustment pin and NOT monitoring change in switch height.
* No argument needed. I have all my Nemesis switches adjustable and have never had one come apart. I adjust as needed before or during use. If you cannot be bothered - TIGHTEN THE PIN!
***Special Circumstance - Damaged but working Threading! Tight/binding***
Auto parts store - small container of Fine Lapping compound
Apply a TINY amount to the first threads
Connect parts SLOWLY, only a few threads at a time working on/off. Continue and increase threading distance.
Once threads start to Free up. THOROUGHLY Clean all parts.
ALL Compound MUST be removed. it will continue cutting if left.
Final note - Dropping a Mod and damaging it is not the Mod fault
People tend to constantly screw up mods(myself included) and most of the time Blame the quality of the mod.
New Mod - WOW that thing looks SWEET!!!!!!
STOP!!! DO NOT TEST IT OUT YET!!!!
Don't even press the switch, nope not even once!
Time for a Bath in a Good Solvent type solution - Even Dawn dish soap may work.
I use an Ultrasonic Cleaner and Orange cleaning solution on ALL my new gear.
If anyone thinks they can SEE micro fine metal particles in threading and tiny nooks and crevices they are WRONG.
This left over machining debris is slow death for a mod. Filing and chewing away at parts.
Clean, clean, hell - clean again. You cannot hurt a Mechanical by making sure it is clean.
Next - Lube if you feel you need it - Recommended for Dissimilar Metal threading or Aluminum threading.
Most SS to SS or Brass to Brass is not an issue.
Only use enough Lube to Lightly coat threading and Slide areas(switch)
A Conductive Grease is recommended!
Step 3 - Carefully start threading on each piece and work in/out SEVERAL times to confirm fit and to chase any suspect threads clean.
If any sections are unusually stubborn, once working - RE-CLEAN those Sections and re-lube.
Pay special attention to switches!!!!
Switches, properly assembled do NOT just fall apart.
1) switch pin is Not properly tightened
2) using as adjustment pin and NOT monitoring change in switch height.
* No argument needed. I have all my Nemesis switches adjustable and have never had one come apart. I adjust as needed before or during use. If you cannot be bothered - TIGHTEN THE PIN!
***Special Circumstance - Damaged but working Threading! Tight/binding***
Auto parts store - small container of Fine Lapping compound
Apply a TINY amount to the first threads
Connect parts SLOWLY, only a few threads at a time working on/off. Continue and increase threading distance.
Once threads start to Free up. THOROUGHLY Clean all parts.
ALL Compound MUST be removed. it will continue cutting if left.
Final note - Dropping a Mod and damaging it is not the Mod fault
Okay, lets Back up and Punt.
People tend to constantly screw up mods(myself included) and most of the time Blame the quality of the mod.
New Mod - WOW that thing looks SWEET!!!!!!
STOP!!! DO NOT TEST IT OUT YET!!!!
Don't even press the switch, nope not even once!
Time for a Bath in a Good Solvent type solution - Even Dawn dish soap may work.
I use an Ultrasonic Cleaner and Orange cleaning solution on ALL my new gear.
If anyone thinks they can SEE micro fine metal particles in threading and tiny nooks and crevices they are WRONG.
This left over machining debris is slow death for a mod. Filing and chewing away at parts.
Clean, clean, hell - clean again. You cannot hurt a Mechanical by making sure it is clean.
Next - Lube if you feel you need it - Recommended for Dissimilar Metal threading or Aluminum threading.
Most SS to SS or Brass to Brass is not an issue.
Only use enough Lube to Lightly coat threading and Slide areas(switch)
A Conductive Grease is recommended!
Step 3 - Carefully start threading on each piece and work in/out SEVERAL times to confirm fit and to chase any suspect threads clean.
If any sections are unusually stubborn, once working - RE-CLEAN those Sections and re-lube.
Pay special attention to switches!!!!
Switches, properly assembled do NOT just fall apart.
1) switch pin is Not properly tightened
2) using as adjustment pin and NOT monitoring change in switch height.
* No argument needed. I have all my Nemesis switches adjustable and have never had one come apart. I adjust as needed before or during use. If you cannot be bothered - TIGHTEN THE PIN!
***Special Circumstance - Damaged but working Threading! Tight/binding***
Auto parts store - small container of Fine Lapping compound
Apply a TINY amount to the first threads
Connect parts SLOWLY, only a few threads at a time working on/off. Continue and increase threading distance.
Once threads start to Free up. THOROUGHLY Clean all parts.
ALL Compound MUST be removed. it will continue cutting if left.
Final note - Dropping a Mod and damaging it is not the Mod fault
slow clap
I'm running the exact same setup with no problem. I would indeed suspect a bad kick.
I too have a clone. The threads were so bad sections were locking up or not starting. A little Noalox on all the threads and it is now as smooth as silk with no problems.
Isn't Noalox meant for non stainless steel and primarily for aluminum? Or am I both crazy and mistaken?
Regardless, still need to figure out my kick issue. Wonder if switching to a better kick (evolv kick2 or, the smok kick v2) would solve that issue... Maybe it's the button vs flat top battery? Regardless, I can simply continue to use the efests when I use my kick/pt2 combo, and the Sonys for all other occasions.
Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 via Tapatalk.
worst switch ever made. All around cheap feel with a crap locking ring. Hits great, but having to constantly tighten the firing pin is annoying. The jamming lock ring is even more annoying.
No advice here, good luck. If the Nemesis was mine I would probably just lock it and call it a day. Solved the issues with my m16 and it hits the same.
No advice here, good luck. If the Nemesis was mine I would probably just lock it and call it a day. Solved the issues with my m16 and it hits the same.
Well, I really think this is simply a kick / Sony battery issue. It also fried my carto tank carto even at 8 watts. There's more of a voltage drop without the kick while using the efests vs Sony... Sony has a 0.05-0.08 voltage drop under load. Efest 0.11-0.15 drop under load. Not seeing how that would mess with a kick which is supposed to regulate the load output. But the efest play nice with the kick and Sony not as much.
Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 via Tapatalk.
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