New 4nine clone!

[crxess]

Have to find the right size, but both magnets can be pressed out and replaced.

Best to replace both as a set to avoid issues. (so........that's what the Monkey Hole is for )

Don't feel Bad or alone. Dozens of people have already Killed their Magnets in the Same fashion.

 

[anumber1]

Uh-oh. Wait. I've been reading everything wrong then. The 510 pin needs to extend well PAST the base of the connector? In other words, I shorted it because I didn't have the pin wound out far enough?

Sorry if I'm being dense. I want to make sure I don't make the same mistake twice.

Unless you were using the kf 3.1, you really cant loosen the 510 screw and keep the positive block secure.

The 510 screw should be just below the outer, threaded portion on your atty to be able to be used on the four nine. If it s
Isnt, yes it will short.

 

[bsoplinger]

The kayfun lite + and clones have an adjustable 510 connector.

If you heat up the ceramic type magnets in these mods they can either loose all magnetism or the poles can move. Once that happens they're finished and you'll need to replace them. Fatdaddyvapes has replacement magnets for all sorts of mods, perhaps they have ones for the 4nine.

If you sand then polish the edge of the bottom inside of the 18350 mod, the edge that keeps the switch button from falling out the end of the tube, you'll get better switch behavior. Change the right angled edge into two 45 degree edges or round it off. Then polish. Also polish the outer side of the button. You're trying to make the surfaces that slide over each other be smoother and slide past each other easier.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2

 

[zipflint]

I'm a little dopey due to pain meds (gallbladder problems on top of my other usual health issues) so I figured it best to err on the side of caution before I give this another shot, so here's a photo of my KFL deck. Could someone tell me if the 510 screw needs to be backed out or screwed in? I don't want to repeat my previous episode and my judgement is impaired at the moment.

 

[bsoplinger]

... so here's a photo of my KFL deck. Could someone tell me if the 510 screw needs to be backed out or screwed in?

That's a great choice of clone for your question since they're 2 different metals, copper threaded 510 connector and stainless steel center pin. You're fine as it is. If you're the crazy worried type you can screw the center pin out, away from the base, making it stick out longer but honestly how it is is just fine. The condition you need to avoid is one where the top of the battery could contact both the copper threaded part and the center pin at the same time. That's what makes the hard short and can destroy the battery, magnets, etc. But as you have it now is fine, the center pin sticks out plenty far enough from the copper part so there's no way a normal battery, button top or flat, would touch both.

Which is why the maker of the 4nine originally said to use button top batteries. Typically they are smaller in diameter (the button part) than the diameter of the outer part of a 510 connector so you could never end up with the battery touching both. But since I have nothing but flat top batteries, that's what I use. Just have to be a bit more careful and be sure that the center pin sticks out enough.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2

 

[zipflint]

Muchas gracias! I will take this information under advisement as soon as I'm able!

But as you have it now is fine, the center pin sticks out plenty far enough from the copper part so there's no way a normal battery, button top or flat, would touch both.

 

[D. Waterhouse]

I meatiness the electricity or heat jacked up the magnet.

You can find the same magnets on amazon or at michaels (or so I've heard)... The magnet name starts with an N, but I can't think of it off the top of my head - do a search for rare earth magnets. The ones in the mod should just pop out, but I haven't tried.

Good luck! Glad I could help!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

My go-to is K&J Magnetics, Huge selection and decent prices with quantity discounts.

 

[Wishbone1965]

I'm a little dopey due to pain meds (gallbladder problems on top of my other usual health issues) so I figured it best to err on the side of caution before I give this another shot, so here's a photo of my KFL deck. Could someone tell me if the 510 screw needs to be backed out or screwed in? I don't want to repeat my previous episode and my judgement is impaired at the moment.

Sorry if my terminology is wrong, but maybe you will get the idea? As someone else already mentioned, when backing that screw out of the kayfun make sure that the positive post block stays tight. I loosened the center screw once with a build and juice inside the atty and it caused the positive block to become loose. Not sure if it arced or what happened but all I know it the mod got so hot I couldn't hold it. Took the battery forever to cool off. Luckily I didn't hold down the firing button all that long and caught it before it was too late.

 

[zipflint]

Thanks heaps for all the help, gang, I really do appreciate it. I've put this on the backburner for now though, since I'm rather dopey and I don't feel like I should be fooling with potentially dangerous stuff while I'm "impaired." But you all have helped me to come to a MUCH better understanding of what's going on.

 

[gpjoe]

This may be an extreme long-shot, but I thought I recently read somewhere here on the forums that if you put the magnets in a freezer that they will magically "re-magnetize". Sounds kind of far-fetched but may be worth a shot. Costs nothing.

Here:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...8-best-copper-contact-mechs.html#post13843444

 

[coaldriller]

The Kayfun lite + and clones have an adjustable 510 connector.

If you heat up the ceramic type magnets in these mods they can either loose all magnetism or the poles can move. Once that happens they're finished and you'll need to replace them. Fatdaddyvapes has replacement magnets for all sorts of mods, perhaps they have ones for the 4nine.

If you sand then polish the edge of the bottom inside of the 18350 mod, the edge that keeps the switch button from falling out the end of the tube, you'll get better switch behavior. Change the right angled edge into two 45 degree edges or round it off. Then polish. Also polish the outer side of the button. You're trying to make the surfaces that slide over each other be smoother and slide past each other easier.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2

Don't really know much about the kl+ clone, but the authentic kl+ does not have an adjustable 510 connector.. I know the 3.1's have one, but the kl+ does'nt

 

[zipflint]

No harm in trying, thanks for the tip!

This may be an extreme long-shot, but I thought I recently read somewhere here on the forums that if you put the magnets in a freezer that they will magically "re-magnetize". Sounds kind of far-fetched but may be worth a shot. Costs nothing.

Here:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...8-best-copper-contact-mechs.html#post13843444

 

[HecticEnergy]

Don't really know much about the kl+ clone, but the authentic kl+ does not have an adjustable 510 connector.. I know the 3.1's have one, but the kl+ does'nt

That is true for the clones too... I kfl anyway, do you know about 3.1.
On the kfl you can back it out, but you are loosening the deck, which could likely jack up your build.

 

[Slanted Thinker]

Just received my 4Nine from Fastteck....

The button on the Stingray X sticks on occasion, which keeps the atty firing. That makes me a little paranoid, and I'm constantly pulling the button down after firing it, to make sure it doesn't stick.

I had the same issue on my Stingray X. It would either be crunchy or stick. I found that if you loosen the screw on the switch by like 1/2 a turn it makes everything a lot smoother. Not sure if this will make a difference, but worth a shot.

 

[bsoplinger]

Don't really know much about the kl+ clone, but the authentic kl+ does not have an adjustable 510 connector.. I know the 3.1's have one, but the kl+ does'nt

I phrased my comment about versions poorly. The original lite + and early clones of it don't have the adjustable 510 connector center pin. Many of the later clones do. The lite + V2 does, its clones do. The black edition from Artemis from custommodcreations is a lite + which has the adjustment. The HCigar or EHPro lite + V2 doee, sorry that I don't remember which. If you're going to be buying a clone now for use with the 4nine, or the semi-hybrid adapters they have with Nemesis and Stingray threading, I'd just make sure that the description specifically comments on the adjustable center pin. Currently I'm using a black edition Kayfun on a Stingray X with semi-hybrid adapter and a Fogger V4 on a 4nine. Both work great with my flat top batteries.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2

 

[coaldriller]

I phrased my comment about versions poorly. The original lite + and early clones of it don't have the adjustable 510 connector center pin. Many of the later clones do. The lite + V2 does, its clones do. The black edition from Artemis from custommodcreations is a lite + which has the adjustment. The HCigar or EHPro lite + V2 doee, sorry that I don't remember which. If you're going to be buying a clone now for use with the 4nine, or the semi-hybrid adapters they have with Nemesis and Stingray threading, I'd just make sure that the description specifically comments on the adjustable center pin. Currently I'm using a black edition Kayfun on a Stingray X with semi-hybrid adapter and a Fogger V4 on a 4nine. Both work great with my flat top batteries.

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Neither of the two authentics v1 or the v2 that I have owned have had an adjustable center post. This might have changed later on in the production line, but im thinking not.

 

[Kh888]

I'm a little dopey due to pain meds (gallbladder problems on top of my other usual health issues) so I figured it best to err on the side of caution before I give this another shot, so here's a photo of my KFL deck. Could someone tell me if the 510 screw needs to be backed out or screwed in? I don't want to repeat my previous episode and my judgement is impaired at the moment.

I ran into the same issue on my 4nine and found it continually firing. My solution was to file down the center with a metal file on my Kayfun Lite. I just file it enough to make it flush with the threading. Problems solved.

 

[Cullin Kin]

Yep. I am exactly that unskilled user. This is the first time I've dealt with this kind of connection.
I thought I was paying attention. I clearly was not. No one to blame but mahself.

It's okay, I can't even get my 4Nine to work. It's sitting brand new on my shelf.

 

[zipflint]

I've juuust about come to the conclusion that I now have a problem with the KFL clone itself, and less-so the 4Nine.

I can adjust the 510 on the atty as far out as I want, but it always gets caught (on the battery or the hybrid threads or what, I'm not sure) and gets wound back UP into the threads on the 510, far enough so that it causes a short on everything, not just the 4Nine. I've tightened up everything on the deck (including the positive connection that is....uhhmmm....under the 510 pin) that I can, but this keeps happening.

Putting it on an ohm meter, the readings jump wildly from 7Ohms down to .4Ohms and everywhere in between.

I had a Taifun GT (clone) on the 4Nine and it works just fine. If only it didn't look so dopey!

I ran into the same issue on my 4nine and found it continually firing. My solution was to file down the center with a metal file on my Kayfun Lite. I just file it enough to make it flush with the threading. Problems solved.

 

[bsoplinger]

I had the same problem with the Fogger I use. What I found helped was to put the mod together differently than one would normally do. Break the 4nine at the end of the 18350 section and completely unthread and remove battery making sure magnetic spacer is stuck on the bottom of the battery. Screw in the Kayfun with extended center pin. Put the battery back into the 18350 section and screw together. I'm guessing that you end up applying less torque to the center pin this way because it consistently worked for me while doing things normally, that is battery into mod, screw all together, screw in atomizer always resulted in the center pin ending up flush with the outer threads just like you're seeing.

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