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If you get edit opened, I think it's worth it to note that the "Loosely Knitted" rope on that page is actually fiber glass. I didn't realize until it was too late, but options 3 and 4 are the only silica rope options on that page and don't have a loose knit option. It may not matter to everyone, but I won't put fiberglass in my atties.
just so you know , silica and glass arent much different , but some people dont want fiberglass and thats understandable.
wish they would get asbestos to not break down into such tiny bits... you know its probably already in those korean atomizers...
i am going to give it another go tonight with the cigar cup i have here , and see if i can get an atty homemade working good. i found an old one laying around that had been cleaned with crest pro mouthwash , but i never rinsed all of it out and it has that minty burn to it , so i need to get one together i can rely on.
going to work on getting the bubbler to concept. would be nothing like seeing a bunch of guys sitting around vaping bottles...
-hov
wish they would get asbestos to not break down into such tiny bits... you know its probably already in those korean atomizers...
i am going to give it another go tonight with the cigar cup i have here , and see if i can get an atty homemade working good. i found an old one laying around that had been cleaned with crest pro mouthwash , but i never rinsed all of it out and it has that minty burn to it , so i need to get one together i can rely on.
going to work on getting the bubbler to concept. would be nothing like seeing a bunch of guys sitting around vaping bottles...
-hov
You guys rock. Way to keep the thread clean too 
I now have 5 ft of the loose braid fiberglass rope coming that I have no use for. I got the silica ordered today to make up for it, but if someone here uses the fiberglass I'd be happy to pass it on.
I now have 5 ft of the loose braid fiberglass rope coming that I have no use for. I got the silica ordered today to make up for it, but if someone here uses the fiberglass I'd be happy to pass it on.
no hov, I have silica.
This occurred recently as far as I can tell that McMaster Carr changed their listing.
One person PM'd me and accepted that they missed the "silica option".
I haven't ordered any for almost a yr now but they did change their description.
That's the problem with linking manufacturers, I wouldn't go back to check weekly and they can change stock or listings.
Best I can do is describe it as silica rope, which it was. The "style" may have made it to descriptive as it appears they may not carry loose knitted in it now. So, that reference was removed. They still should have sent silica, if the name is stated on the order, due to the temp range. The fiberglass is lower.
I may leave the forum for a while, as some do, but I do subscribe to all my threads so I know when questions come up. This was one that needed addressed in the OP at the beginning and it was.
You try to make it as easy for everyone as you can but even now, after some thought, what if they change the option and its no longer 3 or 4?
HexKrak, if your order states Silica, I'd ask to return it for a refund as it does not meet the 2300* spec. It may cost $2 to return it, better than 5' of glass rope you don't want.
This occurred recently as far as I can tell that McMaster Carr changed their listing.
One person PM'd me and accepted that they missed the "silica option".
I haven't ordered any for almost a yr now but they did change their description.
That's the problem with linking manufacturers, I wouldn't go back to check weekly and they can change stock or listings.
Best I can do is describe it as silica rope, which it was. The "style" may have made it to descriptive as it appears they may not carry loose knitted in it now. So, that reference was removed. They still should have sent silica, if the name is stated on the order, due to the temp range. The fiberglass is lower.
I may leave the forum for a while, as some do, but I do subscribe to all my threads so I know when questions come up. This was one that needed addressed in the OP at the beginning and it was.
You try to make it as easy for everyone as you can but even now, after some thought, what if they change the option and its no longer 3 or 4?
HexKrak, if your order states Silica, I'd ask to return it for a refund as it does not meet the 2300* spec. It may cost $2 to return it, better than 5' of glass rope you don't want.
However, if an atty did ever see that temp, EVERYTHING around it would outgas and/or melt. Including the plastic bit under the atty it's self. I'm not so sure if that high a temp requirement is necessary, as much as it is desired , just to be sure.
Also, if it did reach even half that high in temp, the air flowing out of the drip tip would be so hot it would burn your lips and lungs. Hopefully someone more familiar w/ attys and thermal dynamics can support my limited e-cig understanding, but that is HOTT!!!
Also, all the solder would have melted long before then. I wish I had thought of that just a little sooner.
I hear that. I tested some fiberglass mat I had, with a ligter, and I had to hold the lighter in place for a long time. even then, it just melted...using a micro torch lighter, well over a bic temperature .
-hov
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Glad you have that all figured out.
If you look at the McMaster Carr page McMaster-Carr
You'll see that the fiberglass is rated 1000* and then 1400*(option 2).
The silica is 2300*.
Ok, when nichrome wire just starts to glow red, its right at 1900* but we do hit it with a cooler blast of directed air, mist at the coil. Some do a "bright red" burn off. There isnt enough active thermal mass, the nichrome wire, to heat everything you listed, but trust me it will make that glass rope it contacts taste like crap. It does create enough heat to melt the plastic disk under the atty in a 510's air hole shut resulting in a lower draw and more contained heat. I have pics posted of it.
Butane & air burn at 192 ºC = 377.6 ºF.
WikiAnswers - What temperature does butane gas burn
A bic lighter produces what is known as a "diffusion" flame, where the flame front is where the air and fuel first come into contact and "diffuse" into the flame and then combust. These flames are much cooler than pre-mixed flames, as this need for 'diffusion' slows the reaction rate down.
If you are going to post "possible facts" causing someone to make poor decisions that may be detrimental to their health, pls do it somewhere else.
If you look at the McMaster Carr page McMaster-Carr
You'll see that the fiberglass is rated 1000* and then 1400*(option 2).
The silica is 2300*.
Ok, when nichrome wire just starts to glow red, its right at 1900* but we do hit it with a cooler blast of directed air, mist at the coil. Some do a "bright red" burn off. There isnt enough active thermal mass, the nichrome wire, to heat everything you listed, but trust me it will make that glass rope it contacts taste like crap. It does create enough heat to melt the plastic disk under the atty in a 510's air hole shut resulting in a lower draw and more contained heat. I have pics posted of it.
Butane & air burn at 192 ºC = 377.6 ºF.
WikiAnswers - What temperature does butane gas burn
A bic lighter produces what is known as a "diffusion" flame, where the flame front is where the air and fuel first come into contact and "diffuse" into the flame and then combust. These flames are much cooler than pre-mixed flames, as this need for 'diffusion' slows the reaction rate down.
If you are going to post "possible facts" causing someone to make poor decisions that may be detrimental to their health, pls do it somewhere else.
Thanks for the info. I am curious as to what the BTUs of the 2.5ohm nichrome wire is at @3.7 v. As that does relate to the overall question as well. Also, what qualifacations creat the temp differential, since the base material is the same?
I'm not going to try to correct everyones "ideas" continually. It just isn't possible. Sorry.
LowThudd, we are talking 3.7v and a total heat output of 4 watts on a standard atty (3.2ohms). You aren't taking the volume, airflow, mist spray and dead mass thats pulling that 4 watts away. Ok, my "guess" is I can lay my penstyle PV on a 40watt light bulb (10x the heat) and it won't disintegrate.
Yes, if the "loop & hook' or crimp method isn't used, the heat from the nichrome wire can and will usually fail at the solder joint. Its normal melting temp is abt 450*. Depends on the silver content. Much of the heat is conducted in the lead wire to it along with the liquid in the wick. The point of short circuit is the middle of the coil. It gets hot 1st, stays the hottest longest. The duration of use averages abt 5-7 sec on for most and much longer off. So less than a 50% duty cycle enters too.
I have threads that have the calculators posted.
Online Conversion - Ohm's Law Calculator
If you enter 2.5ohms @3.7v you'll see it will produce 5.47watts of heat while drawing 1.48A.
The "base" material? If you are referring to the nichrome wire, the resistance of the wire is in reaction with the electrons of the voltage applied. Just put any 2 values in the calculator and you can soon see the resulting pattern. Lower resistance or higher voltage results in more heat due to a higher current draw.
Great post! However, I hate to disagree with you, but the wicking material(hopefully) soaked in e-juice plays a segnificant rate of btu absorbtion. It doesn't seem to me to be as simple as you have pointed out, or there would be more health problems w/ vaping in general.
I did what I often do and neglected to read carefully enough. I looked for the loose knit not realizing that there were 3 different types of rope seals on that one page. When I was reviewing my invoice I saw fiberglass in the description and thats when I went back and figured out the error of my ways. I certainly don't blame anyone but myself for that bad, and was just passing the information back to the thread to hopefully help others avoid making the same mistake.
Why would you need to disagree with me? Did you not read this in the previous post?
"Much of the heat is conducted in the lead wire to it along with the liquid in the wick."
Simple? You seem to have no idea how much time has been put into looking at atomizers, their materials, by myself and other members here. You previously described choices as "more desirable than needed". I agree that I prefer the safest I can find for myself and anyone that uses them.
The heat generated is simple math, Ohms Law. The materials used become the main issue in making or repairing an atomizer.
If the proper materials are used I'm aware of no health problems known from vaping other than an allergy to PG, either existing or developed. Which has nothing to do with the material type used, its a constituent of the liquid used being PG or VG based.
Start using the wrong materials, applying heat, chemical reactions, possible metal leaching and your setting up a possible disaster.
Honestly, I'd suggest reading the atomizers thread. Yes, it will take a month or 2. I did. I read the findings of many good, bad and why if known.
Or, you can start your own thread maybe " The World of Atomizers According to LowThudd"" and post what ever you want there. If you feel things aren't the way you like them or are wrong, man up and take the liability. All I can suggest is you do the research first for others sake.
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