New Atomizer Prototype

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crip

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Oct 26, 2009
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Just reading this again and thinking there is no way your using boro glass if your melting it with a lighter.. you need a torch to melt this stuff.. 1200 degs to start softening it to make it molten your talkin 1700, my torch is runs more than 5000 degs and it still takes a few seconds to melt thin tube..

i might have to get some nicrome n try this,, i can pull glass tube down to any size ,, all the way to hair size hole and thin.. but 1mil wall will get you some good strength..
 

roadkilldeluxe

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Sep 23, 2009
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crazy cuz i got some paper thin glass right here and it is barley melting...


are you talkin bout one of those torch lighters not a bic then right lol

The tubes have an OD of 1.3-1.5mm and an ID of 0.8-1.2mm... A BIC lighter works, but it's slower and leaves carbon on the glass. A regular butane lighter works really well (and it leaves the glass clean). I believe that both burn at 1997 deg.C.

Assuming an OD of 1.4 mm, a wall thickness of 0.2mm, and a length of 5mm, the total volume of glass is 8.2 mm^3. That's roughly equivalent to a cube of boro 2mm on each side. Also, when heating it, the Nichrome inside probably helps in keeping it hotter.

As an experiment, I took some thicker Nichrome and I pulled it through one 100mm capillary tube. Using a regular tea candle, I was able to bend this thing into crazy shapes (I was hoping to make a sort of "Neon light" by making the wire glow red inside the glass).

grimmer255 - Will do :)
 

monet1

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Nov 29, 2009
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All you geezers are looking at ways to kinda modify something like an internal combustion engine to ....arrrrr an internal combustion engine!
What you should be thinking of is how to deliver the liquid to the atomizer in a more efficient way and how to convert it into vapor without using a heating element for instance! Perhaps a liquid consisting of a different base combined with an ultrasonic atomizer!?!?
 

roadkilldeluxe

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Sep 23, 2009
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I got some dead 510 atomizers in the other day and got a chance to check it out today... after maiming one I think I've got the disassembly down. Now I have to:
1) Figure out how to attach the Nichrome to leads (spot weld?)
2) Get some wick material
3) buy some thin wire to use

Looks promising! Just need to disassemble the old microwave I have and make it into a spot welder then find some time to do some more experimenting!


All you geezers are looking at ways to kinda modify something like an internal combustion engine to ....arrrrr an internal combustion engine!
What you should be thinking of is how to deliver the liquid to the atomizer in a more efficient way and how to convert it into vapor without using a heating element for instance! Perhaps a liquid consisting of a different base combined with an ultrasonic atomizer!?!?

Easier said than done! Get on it! :D Unfortunately, ultrasonic atomizers have some big drawbacks that would really defeat the purpose.

Congratulations! You've just invented the light bulb.

Let's just say I never thought my smoking habit would lead to this.
 
Sorry to bring this thread back up especially since I've only gotten to page 4 and I'm not sure if anything I have to say has already been discussed.

I've melted pyrex glass tubes up to a thickness of about 1/8" using a TS8000 plumbers torch from home depot. It took a lot of practice and messing around but I can make a basic spoon pipe from this stuff in about 20 min.

The pyrex shouldn't crack so long as it's been cooled properly to alleviate any stress in the glass otherwise it will be very fragile. I read somewhere that you have to leave the glass in a kiln at about 1200*f for around 15min to get rid of the stress after it's been formed.

If the coil can withstand the temps needed to melt the glass I would say make your coil and cover it with some melted glass and once you have enough on there just use the torch to heat up the glass on the coil to even it out. Also I would suggest hooking the coil up to a power source so the coil is heated on it's own so when you let the glass cool the coil stays expanded. Once the glass has solidified then slowly cool the coil which should leave you just enough expansion room for the coil inside the glass.

I would try to make the glass shaped like a tear drop with a long tail and then get a small diameter pyrex tube just larger than the diameter of the tail on the tear drop. I'm thinking that if it's the right sized gap between the tube and the tail maybe it will have a capillary effect which you could stick into a bottle of juice. Also the tail would heat up a bit since it would be part of the glass in contact with the coil which might aid in bringing it up the tube. I would use a little bit of melted glass to attach the tube to the drop part of the tear drop where the coil is.

As far as pre-heating the glass/coil maybe it could be wired to send a one second bust of 2-4 times the running power to heat it quickly. Then again it would probably cause minor stress problems in the glass faster over time not to mention that this whole thing could probably break pretty easy.

Anyway it's just my 2 cents and I mainly wanted to let you guys know that a small tube of pyrex can be easily melted with the biggest home depot plumbers torch using a screw on bottle of propane.
 
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