New Atomizer Coil Shape

[Vaporer]

Dan, found this on the putty: http://www.cotronics.com/catalog/51 7020 901.pdf
"Provides excellent resistance to oxidizing and reducing atmoshperes, molten non-ferous metals, steam, most chemicals and solvents."

Seems pretty resistant. It did state it contained "ceramic fibers and aluminum oxide". The fibers would be bound and shouldn't present a problem.
It'd be nice to heat and soak some, cured in PG/VG for a few hrs at 400*, then ran up higher and have the liquid tested for aluminum.
Some flavorings contain esters, aldehydes and such. Be impossible to test for everything, but they are present in small amounts.
Another possibility would be to coat it with a known safe , non-toxic, heat resistant paint, glaze....

Edit: Looking better.....from Wiki http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aluminium_oxide
As a filler:
Being fairly chemically inert, relatively non-toxic, and white, alumina is a favored filler for plastics.

 

[Scubabatdan]

Dan, found this on the putty: http://www.cotronics.com/catalog/51 7020 901.pdf
"Provides excellent resistance to oxidizing and reducing atmoshperes, molten non-ferous metals, steam, most chemicals and solvents."

Seems pretty resistant. It did state it contained "ceramic fibers and aluminum oxide". The fibers would be bound and shouldn't present a problem.
It'd be nice to heat and soak some, cured in PG/VG for a few hrs at 400*, then ran up higher and have the liquid tested for aluminum.
Some flavorings contain esters, aldehydes and such. Be impossible to test for everything, but they are present in small amounts.
Another possibility would be to coat it with a known safe , non-toxic, heat resistant paint, glaze....

Edit: Looking better.....from Wiki Aluminium oxide - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
As a filler:
Being fairly chemically inert, relatively non-toxic, and white, alumina is a favored filler for plastics.

Looks like I might give this one a go then
Dan

 

[hova]

ok so i didnt find an major pill fob thread , so ill toss this on here , in response to dans plain pill fob , i wanted something maybe a little different..i found a few things , here they are...


Mufler looking fob...

lighter , this is what im ordering due to the extra internal stuff , and it was made for holding liquid , not keeping it out...

this is an ebay link , i just like that color green....lol..

this place has the largest delection of fobs , ranging in size from micro to xl , not bad on prices either...

and this one , which is LOVELY , look at that top portion , looks like it would be perfect for a 510...
looooove it

let me know what yous think...

0hov

 

[hova]

oh , they also have one where the bottom unscrews... i know its kind of irrelevant for a piece of metal , but that might be something someone is looking for , you know...


im going to pick up the lighter next week and the very last one i posted , ill let you all know how it goes..


0-hov

 

[LowThudd]

OK, I wasn't up to reading the whole thread, but did get half way through. Has anyone considered just having the coil ceramic coated? I put in an email to this local to me company, hoping they can help: ULTRAMET - Contact Us

 

[hova]

i dont know why you would want to? there are ceramic heaters easily available (hot melt adhesive guns run about 420f , and no thats not a coincedence) . i dont remember why we dnot use them , but coating a coil in ceramic just seems like futility...


i am going for a nice pillfob , with quick change coils , and a resovoir setup like dans fobby , so i dont ever have to worry about that burnt taste and shipping again...


fill me in on the reasoning behind coating , maybe im unawares of something...


-hov

 

[LowThudd]

The ceramic coating should keep the coil temp stable and keep it from burning out at a weak spot. Also, the ceramic coating should conduct heat MUCH better than the NiChrome alone. *shrug*, but you guys know more than me about e-cigs, this is only my second week using them. lol

 

[hova]

i dont see how it would work , unless you competely buried the wire inside the ceramic , in which case , those already exist. dipping a coil would just make it work harder if you ask me...

i dont even like the idea of the wick sucking heat energ away...


i have a dream , that one day , my parents' children will be able NOT to put liqid into an atomizer , but instead the atomizer into the juice....oh yes....into the juice...


piss on wicks and filler...
-hov

(dont really pee on ur wicks)

 

[Vaporer]

Ceramic ones are here . Look for Quit 4 my kids or search ceramic. It adds dead thermal mass and takes longer heat up time. It would be better suited for a bigger mod type battery.

Not impossible though.

 

[LowThudd]

Ceramic ones are here . Look for Quit 4 my kids or search ceramic. It adds dead thermal mass and takes longer heat up time. It would be better suited for a bigger mod type battery.

Not impossible though.

It depends on what type of ceramic is used though. Ceramic carbide for instance is thermally conductive, not dead mass.

 

[hova]

its worth a shot , if you have the resources to try it. im liking dan and vaporer's way of looking at things , post-ban . im going that route , cause i dont really believe in the laws as they are anyways , and ill be damned if my vape is going to be illegal...

like i said , im up for new stuff , i especially like the idea of a LAZER vape... looking into some old fluid dynamics stuff i have laying around...


-hov




















i know its spelled wrong*

 

[Vaporer]

It depends on what type of ceramic is used though. Ceramic carbide for instance is thermally conductive, not dead mass.

There are exceptions to most things. The question is are you willing to pay for it and do some time & research?

The ceramic ones in that thread had to be special request and a minimum order of 100 @ 25.00 ea .

I hope you go for it and succeed.

 

[Vaporer]

There is YouTube video on converting a CD/DVD laser to melt plastic & pop balloons.

The USA recently banned higher powered lasers.
Be nice to test if one of those could vaporize eliquid.

As always power requirements might be the limiting factor.

 

[hova]

quick Q , did you use lead free silver solder , or did you not notice lead in ur solder?


-hov

 

[Vaporer]

hov,
My pkgs say lead free. I got mine at Rat Shack. I can post thier part no. if you need it.
Get the smaller dia as it works better abt not blobbing . You can get more for the same price and split the wire since you need a good flux anyway. I use a paste with Zinc Chloride for nichrome wire.

 

[hova]

im using some oatey green tub , h20 something or other. works decent enough , and it was all the store had , i figured flux was flux (was flux) .

anywho , i was doing a little reading on fiberglass , and i got some fiberglass mat out of my closet (yes i have yards of it left still , fresh and new) , cut a litte piece off and hit i with a lighter , and nothing happened. it pretty stiff , and im guessing once i rinse it in distilled water , then toss it in he oven at 400 for a couple minutes , it should stiffen a little more as well , and i believe this is all the "green" cigs are . they may be plain fiberglass thread , but that .... is ridiculous to find...


i was pretty sure lead free was worth the hassle , but im sufferring a migrane right now so im outta here...

 

[Vaporer]

hov,
I'm with you on the fiberglass mat. It sure looks like it and it appears to have the same properties.

People have used diff fluxes with success. The standard resin core just doesn't seem to work with nichrome well. Just make sure to rinse any residue away when done and that gets any possible loose fibers and you're good to go.

I'm gonna give the laser a try when I get the right cd burner in.
I need to go back and see if it used the 5 or 12v supply. 5v is doable.
The intake air stream needs to pass lens so vapor doesn't collect on it. I'll "open air" test it first to make sure it can generate enough heat.

 

[Scubabatdan]

Yeahhhh I got my Thermeez Ceramic 3000 degree Paste in!! I have already filled the new atty bottom after soldering in the screw post. I will let it cure and post pics. 12 Hours cure time
Dan

 

[hova]

i want pics asap dan...

i picked up some lead free silver solder today , and played for about 10 hours , finally got my coil small enough to fit into the atomizer tube , but i need to tweak my design. an original prototype , was just a coil on some mag wire , onto a plug. had a few strands of fiberglass mat , two drops of some cheap chinese green tea (smells like lawn fertilizer) , it smoked a storm up.

needless to say i wanted to see it burn (i know...) , and <10 seconds later , i was dissapointd with myself for wanting to destroy it when not 60 seconds earlier , i had finished creating it...


aaaaaanyways...


i got one into a tube , with some mat , and a 808d1 carto centerpost , just like my diagram , and it sucks...

i think i has too much fiberglass , but im burnt for the night.


any tips on coil size? i think i should have gotten 32 or 30... also : the new "washer" 901 isnt a washer at all , its a cover , ala 108 style... i know other ones do this , but once i boiled em all today , they came apart much easier than acetone. might be interested in an old g120 carto just to see the cup , etc...

-hov

 

[Scubabatdan]

i want pics asap dan...

any tips on coil size? i think i should have gotten 32 or 30... also : the new "washer" 901 isnt a washer at all , its a cover , ala 108 style... i know other ones do this , but once i boiled em all today , they came apart much easier than acetone. might be interested in an old g120 carto just to see the cup , etc...

-hov

PICS AHOY! LOL

Hey this thing is working perfectly, I used 2 screw post from a computer motherboard mount hardware I had and soldered them to the mono jack I installed in the lid of a pill fob, I then filled the empty space with the thermeez paste and added the coil. I am using 34ga nichrome wire @ 2.4ohms.

Have a look!