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I really don't know how to answer your concern.
I did not ask this thread to be a sticky and was surprized when it was.
Sun Vaporer and I are not close or long time friends.
I simply look for ways to repair, maintain or improve our equipment, mainly atomizers, so in the event of a ban people will have a method to keep vaping. For many, it may be satisfying and can be a lower cost. Hand winding a factory atomizer is time consuming and not something many would consider doing for profit.
As far as materials used in rebuilding or creating atomizers, one should use the safest materials possible.
I and many others have measured , chemically tested and whatever else we were capable of tested silica/fire wick against the factory wicking material with it having the same results. Is it the same as the factory material, no manufacturer will confirm it.
Few materials found after months of researching meet the specifications needed for replacing the factory material. Many or most fail. Even the picture posted in this thread of a factory cartomizer shows slight "long" thread breakage.
There are many discussions in the atomizer section on different wicking materials, advantages, disadvantages and concerns. Most are buried in the thread and was not in the topic line.
All I can say is if anyone has concerns with any material suggested in my posts then they should not attempt it, use it, unless they substitute something they feel safe with.
I did not ask this thread to be a sticky and was surprized when it was.
Sun Vaporer and I are not close or long time friends.
I simply look for ways to repair, maintain or improve our equipment, mainly atomizers, so in the event of a ban people will have a method to keep vaping. For many, it may be satisfying and can be a lower cost. Hand winding a factory atomizer is time consuming and not something many would consider doing for profit.
As far as materials used in rebuilding or creating atomizers, one should use the safest materials possible.
I and many others have measured , chemically tested and whatever else we were capable of tested silica/fire wick against the factory wicking material with it having the same results. Is it the same as the factory material, no manufacturer will confirm it.
Few materials found after months of researching meet the specifications needed for replacing the factory material. Many or most fail. Even the picture posted in this thread of a factory cartomizer shows slight "long" thread breakage.
There are many discussions in the atomizer section on different wicking materials, advantages, disadvantages and concerns. Most are buried in the thread and was not in the topic line.
All I can say is if anyone has concerns with any material suggested in my posts then they should not attempt it, use it, unless they substitute something they feel safe with.
CHECK OUT THIS PUMP Piezoelectric micro-pump TAKASAGO ELECTRIC
URL IS Micro peristaltic pumps - TAKASAGO-ELECTRIC - Peristaltic pump
has potential
Shame you have to register for more info. They dont specify the voltage range.
Many of those little pumps won't run at the voltage we use.
DVap had a posted usage rate per puff if memory serves me correctly.
If it was above the .06ml it could be set to run just draw conditions are present keeping the reserve at a constant desireable level.
You should post that link in thier thread.
There are a few pump units in the mods section. They are manual and you just press when you want more juice. Some are simple and other are pretty sophisticated.
Many of those little pumps won't run at the voltage we use.
DVap had a posted usage rate per puff if memory serves me correctly.
If it was above the .06ml it could be set to run just draw conditions are present keeping the reserve at a constant desireable level.
You should post that link in thier thread.
There are a few pump units in the mods section. They are manual and you just press when you want more juice. Some are simple and other are pretty sophisticated.
Not a concern! I just found it funny is all. I'm actually glad to see that the silica rope had a use after all!
Since carbon building up on the coil can be an issue how hard would it be to make a coil on a rod, embedding it into some clay, firing it then removing the rod. You would have a tube of a heating element that you could thread the wicking material through. The tiny size could be a pain but with a fairly thin layer of clay it should heat up rather quickly. Or is this just a pipe dream? No pun intended. Or could one imbed the coil in a small blob of glass? Small bits should be easily melted with a small butane torch but Ive never messed around with that.
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I wouldnt say its impossible.
It will take more heat to operate.
Repeated heating and cooling of the thin material will likely crack it. But they are a lot of materials to try if you have the means to work them.
There is a nice thread on here where I think roadkill was working on a test atty in a glass christmas type bulb and some other glass materials.
Then there is also the special ceramic rod project going on.
Lots of interesting ideas if you look.
The main advantage of the present atty is the coil is 100% active thermal mass.
But it has drawbacks. Its fragile in more than one way.
The PV is still young. I can see some major changes in the future. Especially with mods where power is abundant and it doesnt have to look like an analog.
Presently everyone is trying to work within the confines of the factory sized atty.
This puts a lot of restrictions on what can be done.
It will take more heat to operate.
Repeated heating and cooling of the thin material will likely crack it. But they are a lot of materials to try if you have the means to work them.
There is a nice thread on here where I think roadkill was working on a test atty in a glass christmas type bulb and some other glass materials.
Then there is also the special ceramic rod project going on.
Lots of interesting ideas if you look.
The main advantage of the present atty is the coil is 100% active thermal mass.
But it has drawbacks. Its fragile in more than one way.
The PV is still young. I can see some major changes in the future. Especially with mods where power is abundant and it doesnt have to look like an analog.
Presently everyone is trying to work within the confines of the factory sized atty.
This puts a lot of restrictions on what can be done.
Got some of these myself, ( mostly 'cause I'm goin broke buying atty's!),and thought about their construction. They seemed indestructible at first but I finally killed a couple of them. Took one apart and the light bulb went off!! (You know the one, it says AHAH!!!!)
Why build off the old broke way we been doin this.
They say the definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over and expecting different results8-o.
Why NOT build an atty vertically like the 808? It serves 2 purposes.
1.Juice doesn't "pool up" on the atty like the 501 and such.
AND
2. Ease of build. Take one apart it has a central post that every thing is hung on.
Think about it.
BTW... What gauge wire do you use on your rebuilds to atatch the coil to the atty body ?
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Actually, I've given the vertical coil cartomizers alot of thought. I wish I had a bunch of duds to work with.
Did you manage to remove the threaded fitting without destroying it? It appears if you can do that, the insides should slide out. I looked down the hole in my KR808 and I can see straight through it. I'm anxious to see exactly how they are working. The pic I saw showed a center post where the coil(already removed) was hanging vertical, obviously just off center, and everything else wrapped or packed around it. Couldnt tell more than that from the pic.
If you are going to persue this, start a thread on rebuilding them. Post pics and details of how to disassemble them. Many own them and they get good reports of durability as does the greencig cartomizer.
Feel free to post a link to your thread here.
All info on keeping attys going is important.
From the picture I saw its wide open on the "hanger" and would be much easier for many , maybe everyone, to rework if the fitting can be removed in a way to make it reuseable. Many will jump in with ideas/comments and thats good. Even if it takes 2 attys to make a good one that is rebuildable, thats a big plus. Turning 20 dead attys into 10 rebuildable ones is a great return!
As I've stated before, this thread is a way to do it. Is it the right way? It's just a way that works , that I can do, and I hope others can learn from it and do it. I don't mind criticism because I'm not sure anyone can say abt thier method "my way is the right way". Its better for everyone if many ways are posted and the reader can decide which is the best or easiest for them to do or attempt. The main focus is repairing a costly component, that will fail and someday may not be available.
As far as the connecting wires to the coil. I've never had any luck using the existing wires. It seems the eliquid causes the coating to swell and trying to connect and solder the ends down in the ceramic cup is tough to say the least.
The atty will pull just over 1A. Stranded wire carries more current than solid wire. If you look on a current draw table, the recommended wire is always to large to fit through the holes in the ceramic cup. The coating on the wire will vary in thickness also. Drilling the wire holes larger in ceramic is another story. The wire I've seen in dead attys that go from the fittin to the coil appear to be to small for the current, but they do work. They all also have a very thin coating/insulation. If you have a source of stranded wire that fits through the cups hole, I'd cut 2 3" lengths solder it to a coil and connect it to the battery. If it will run the atty red hot for 30 seconds to a minute with out melting the coating, it should be fine.
I use the solid red enameled wire in the Rat Shack 3 pack. I make a 1/16" "U" or "V" on each end of the coil and on the enameled wire. I hook them together then squeeze all 4 "U"'s closed , then solder. It makes a good physical connection so if the solder softens the joint cannot come apart. Using a toothpick to put a dab of soldering paste on the crimped "U"'s makes soldering much easier. The flux should contain Zinc Chloride and a 35watt soldering will do the job in abt 3-5sec. Then rinse with water to remove the excess flux. Without the paste, nichrome wire is very hard to solder.
The sharp edge of the cup hole can scrape the enamel off the wire. The wire I mentioned slides through easily, but if both were scraped exposing bare wire, a short could occur from the metal mesh reservior below the cup.
I normally do not remove the mesh. I remove the old original wire, then enlarge the hole it was in with a pointed tool. Once the new wire is inserted, a short piece of wire insulation can be slipped over the enameled wire against the cup bottom and the mesh pressed against it to hold it in place. No short circuits this way and it only has to be done on the 1st rebuild. Most glues arent a good idea when in contact with eliquid. Leaching is possible and most, even epoxy will turn rubbery. Silicone can be used on the outside of the insulation sleeve in the gap between it and the metal mesh. The mesh/atty should be thourghly rinsed in alcohol prior to rebuilding so the silicone will adhere.
Did you manage to remove the threaded fitting without destroying it? It appears if you can do that, the insides should slide out. I looked down the hole in my KR808 and I can see straight through it. I'm anxious to see exactly how they are working. The pic I saw showed a center post where the coil(already removed) was hanging vertical, obviously just off center, and everything else wrapped or packed around it. Couldnt tell more than that from the pic.
If you are going to persue this, start a thread on rebuilding them. Post pics and details of how to disassemble them. Many own them and they get good reports of durability as does the greencig cartomizer.
Feel free to post a link to your thread here.
All info on keeping attys going is important.
From the picture I saw its wide open on the "hanger" and would be much easier for many , maybe everyone, to rework if the fitting can be removed in a way to make it reuseable. Many will jump in with ideas/comments and thats good. Even if it takes 2 attys to make a good one that is rebuildable, thats a big plus. Turning 20 dead attys into 10 rebuildable ones is a great return!
As I've stated before, this thread is a way to do it. Is it the right way? It's just a way that works , that I can do, and I hope others can learn from it and do it. I don't mind criticism because I'm not sure anyone can say abt thier method "my way is the right way". Its better for everyone if many ways are posted and the reader can decide which is the best or easiest for them to do or attempt. The main focus is repairing a costly component, that will fail and someday may not be available.
As far as the connecting wires to the coil. I've never had any luck using the existing wires. It seems the eliquid causes the coating to swell and trying to connect and solder the ends down in the ceramic cup is tough to say the least.
The atty will pull just over 1A. Stranded wire carries more current than solid wire. If you look on a current draw table, the recommended wire is always to large to fit through the holes in the ceramic cup. The coating on the wire will vary in thickness also. Drilling the wire holes larger in ceramic is another story. The wire I've seen in dead attys that go from the fittin to the coil appear to be to small for the current, but they do work. They all also have a very thin coating/insulation. If you have a source of stranded wire that fits through the cups hole, I'd cut 2 3" lengths solder it to a coil and connect it to the battery. If it will run the atty red hot for 30 seconds to a minute with out melting the coating, it should be fine.
I use the solid red enameled wire in the Rat Shack 3 pack. I make a 1/16" "U" or "V" on each end of the coil and on the enameled wire. I hook them together then squeeze all 4 "U"'s closed , then solder. It makes a good physical connection so if the solder softens the joint cannot come apart. Using a toothpick to put a dab of soldering paste on the crimped "U"'s makes soldering much easier. The flux should contain Zinc Chloride and a 35watt soldering will do the job in abt 3-5sec. Then rinse with water to remove the excess flux. Without the paste, nichrome wire is very hard to solder.
The sharp edge of the cup hole can scrape the enamel off the wire. The wire I mentioned slides through easily, but if both were scraped exposing bare wire, a short could occur from the metal mesh reservior below the cup.
I normally do not remove the mesh. I remove the old original wire, then enlarge the hole it was in with a pointed tool. Once the new wire is inserted, a short piece of wire insulation can be slipped over the enameled wire against the cup bottom and the mesh pressed against it to hold it in place. No short circuits this way and it only has to be done on the 1st rebuild. Most glues arent a good idea when in contact with eliquid. Leaching is possible and most, even epoxy will turn rubbery. Silicone can be used on the outside of the insulation sleeve in the gap between it and the metal mesh. The mesh/atty should be thourghly rinsed in alcohol prior to rebuilding so the silicone will adhere.
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Well, I dont have the pics yet. Maybe a week.
I have a quick written instruction, step by step, ready.
Many could probably make the coil from it. Some won't be able to.
Alot has already been covered in other threads in the atomizer section.
I don't know what model you are using, but it will not address specific models.
That just isn't possible. If you can't disassemble your model in a way it can be reassembled then you need to start looking for someone that has a thread on it or start one asking for help doing it.
You are the 1st I've heard abt in Singapore that has anything seized.
I have a quick written instruction, step by step, ready.
Many could probably make the coil from it. Some won't be able to.
Alot has already been covered in other threads in the atomizer section.
I don't know what model you are using, but it will not address specific models.
That just isn't possible. If you can't disassemble your model in a way it can be reassembled then you need to start looking for someone that has a thread on it or start one asking for help doing it.
You are the 1st I've heard abt in Singapore that has anything seized.
If you read the thread, I said it would be a making a coil only thing.
I dont own all the models and cannot possibly address them all.
There are 3 510's physically with 2 diff ohm coils.
If I handed you a coil with leads right now, could you install it?
If the answer is no, the write up would do you no good as thats where it would start and stop.
I can't answer a barage of questions concerning all the atty models and most I havent seen. I've already posted this and yet people will still PM asking abt how will I do this on my X or Y or Z? I dont know.
Thats why I suggested if you cannot take it apart and put it back together, start a thread or find a thread that shows your model being disassembled.
I dont own all the models and cannot possibly address them all.
There are 3 510's physically with 2 diff ohm coils.
If I handed you a coil with leads right now, could you install it?
If the answer is no, the write up would do you no good as thats where it would start and stop.
I can't answer a barage of questions concerning all the atty models and most I havent seen. I've already posted this and yet people will still PM asking abt how will I do this on my X or Y or Z? I dont know.
Thats why I suggested if you cannot take it apart and put it back together, start a thread or find a thread that shows your model being disassembled.
Jeez skywalk, read your own thread in this forum. Stephan Real posted a comprehensive step-by-step for you and I think he even provided a link to some pictures. What more do you want?
Thanks crazyhorse. i've written to him. Some problems I encountered:
1) I can't quite follow his instructions.
2) he has references to buy items from stores in USA which I can't find here
remember i'm trying to learn from everyone, not just one person. There are so many ways to do it, as I think Vaporer put it. His is just one of the many ways, not the only way. Why do you have a problem with me learning from more than one person?
1) I can't quite follow his instructions.
2) he has references to buy items from stores in USA which I can't find here
remember i'm trying to learn from everyone, not just one person. There are so many ways to do it, as I think Vaporer put it. His is just one of the many ways, not the only way. Why do you have a problem with me learning from more than one person?
There's nothing wrong with learning from all the people you can possibly learn from skywalk. There's a ton of info posted throughout this forum and the Modders forum on rebuilding atomizers.
I have a problem with pushing people to post things they are obviously not ready to post or they would already be posted for you.
I have a problem with pushing people to post things they are obviously not ready to post or they would already be posted for you.
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