New convert starting equipment opinion needed

[gn386]

I recently quit smoking three weeks ago. I started with a Itaste 3.0 VV. Found that it was not lasting all day. I now purchased in Itaste SVD and I am pretty happy. I currently on a protank2 a protank 3 and a Aspire nautilus. I find that I am happiest on the Nautilus. The protanks seem to lack airflow, so I have purchased the Kanger airflow mod only 5 bucks each. I want to increase my tank inventory does anybody have any input on the best tanks. Heck for hat matter is the SVD a good selection? Thanks

 

[bm2112]

Unfortunately, the two tanks I usually recommend to beginners are the two you already own. The Protanks with Aero bases are essentially AeroTanks and the Nautilus is a highly recommended clearo. I'm not sure if you've tried the Bottom Vert coils for the nautilus tanks but I've heard they're a big improvement.

I know that Kanger just put out the Aerotank Turbo which actually uses 2 of the dual coils. Haven't heard much about it but it could be another great Kanger product.

 

[CastleRat]

I like an iclear 30 but it has a tighter draw than you like. You may like an RDA - you will have to build your own coils etc.. I use mine for a little extra nic now and then and it has a really loose draw.

 

[gn386]

Just got the Nautilus , haven't even started using it hard yet. I find I need to change flavors multiple times daily. Money is not a big driver, but since the wife allows vaping in the house the analogs are out the door. Thanks for the input bm2112, bought the protanks from a local B&M. The Nautilus came from online due to the savings, almost 50%. RDA..... have to look at that. Rebuilding not a big deal since did electrical work for 20 years and have plenty of high grade meters. Nic does not seem to be my issue more physical habit. I like my flavors to be the driving force like them strong.

 

[Marc411]

I own the SVD and like it a lot, everything but the firing button that died recently. I did contact Innokin and they have me sending it back to take a look at it.

Keep you box and instruction manuals in case your switch fails. My understanding is the new one's have an upgraded switch.

I use the PT2's with the AFC and like them a lot. I rebuild my own coils so they work out pretty well loaded with Rayon or Cotton. The Afc will make a big difference, if you rebuild that will make them even better.

 

[klynnn]

The smartest thing you can do is learn to build you own coils on something like a kayfun rba. There are lots of videos on you tube to show how.

 

[fargazer]

The SVD is an excellent starting mod; it has reverse battery protection, handles most batteries whether flat top or button, and is reasonably robust. Usually I will recommend either the SVD or the MVP2 as a good starting mod.

For tanks, I've had both AeroTank and Nautilus; eventually I moved on to Kayfun style tanks. Right now I switch between a couple Russian 91%, a Squape Reloaded, and a Vicious Ant Cyclone on a Reo Grand. The Kayfun style is the easiest of the rebuildables for a beginner, and there are many good quality clones that are inexpensive.

 

[gn386]

Is an RBA a logical tank to carry all day? Watched a few videos on micro coils, I think I will try them for my protank. Question is all the videos I saw were vaping in the realm of 11+ watts. Is that necessary or what is the loss? I don't want to Vale that high since batts won't last all day, unless there is an answer to that. Currently using Panasonic's 2250mah 18650. Sorry for all the questions but this has become a mission.

 

[rusirius]

I ALWAYS carry an RBA all day... Usually a kayfun lite... I do have a kanga protank3 mini I carry as a backup... With a good coil and high wattage it won't output anywhere near the vape I get from the kayfun, but still plenty for a good vape when I can't re-wick or re-fill the kayfun easily... (i.e. driving down the road...) I use micro-coils in the kfl and cotton for wick, so when I need to re-wick it literally only takes me a few minutes... Pull the old out, burn off the coil, re-wick and reassemble... The coils, if well built will last a VERY long time before needing to be replaced.

Now as for the wattage... Here's the bottom line... More wattage = more heat... It's really that simple... Other factors effect how long the heat takes to build, how long it sticks around after being energized, etc, but no matter how you look at it, more wattage means more power, and more power means more heat...

More heat means more vapor... PROVIDED you have a setup to support it... Think of it like this...

If you run 100 watts into a coil and dunk it directly into fluid, it's going to vape like mad... and will continue to do so... it won't "burn" or get a bad taste... simply release a TON of vapor...

On the other hand, shove a wick through that same coil, and it's going to burn big time... Because the juice will instantly flash off and can't be "Replaced" fast enough... meaning you're now burning coil and wick instead of juice... That's a bad thing... LOL

In other words, you have to strike a balance... A given setup is only capable of wicking juice at a certain speed, based on the wick material, how much of it is used, the tank, etc...

So what it comes down to is this... You can increase your wattage to any point up until your wick/tank setup can no longer feed juice fast enough to keep up... Once that happens you're going to get that nasty burning dry hit...

What that means to you is this... The more wattage, the more heat... the more heat, the more vapor... assuming the wick doesn't run dry...

I can build a coil and wick setup in a kfl that can easily take 30watts... That means I can get a very warm dense vape and get giant clouds of vapor... At the expense of chewing through a LOT more juice... On the other hand I can run that exact same setup at 6 watts and still get a good vape... The only difference is, I'm burning off much less juice... so it won't be as rich, full or flavorful as running a higher wattage... My juice will last a lot longer though...

Does that make sense? Just because someone else builds a single coils and runs 15 watts on it doesn't mean you have to... it just means that potentially you can, which will give you a warmer vape and more of it...

When I vape from my kfl I'm usually running around 15watts... That gives a warm vape that you can almost feel in your mouth... What I mean is, ..... well... i don't want to say it's like drinking juice... LOL, cause i'm sure you know that stuff tastes nasty!!! but it's so much vapor it's like it almost condenses in your mouth a little and you get much more flavor out of it... And more nic... On the other hand, I can drop wattage and it'll just be a cooler "drier" vape...

 

[gn386]

good information was not expecting that I say I have come to the conclusion that I am going to try my first coil for my protank.I picked up some 28 gauge wire now all I need to do is find the organic cotton that everybody speaks of. I figure it may be easier trying microcoil first before I dive into an RBA.I figure I like vaping at8 to 8.5and the battery life is liveable.

 

[BadKarma43123]

Unfortunately, the two tanks I usually recommend to beginners are the two you already own. The Protanks with Aero bases are essentially AeroTanks and the Nautilus is a highly recommended clearo. I'm not sure if you've tried the Bottom Vert coils for the nautilus tanks but I've heard they're a big improvement.

I know that Kanger just put out the Aerotank Turbo which actually uses 2 of the dual coils. Haven't heard much about it but it could be another great Kanger product.

Bm 2112, Do bottom vert coils for Nautilus tanks sit submerged in the juice? Does it eliminate the need for wicks? Looking to start using e juice and leave behind carttomizers in facet of tank and mod that will allow me to cape through the day and only refill the tank.

 

[v1k1ng1001]

1. I own an SVD, Vamo and MVP 2. The MVP 2 is the best. The Vamo is easily the worst. The SVD is somewhere in between but has the advantage of being tough as nails and able to output higher wattage than the MVP. It's a good choice in the $40 or so range.

2. The airflow control upgrade for the protank II is awesome. Good choice.

3. Your next real step from the nautilus is to learn to rebuild. You can cut your teeth by rebuilding a protank II head but the real fun (pun intended?) is with something like a $30 kayfun clone. Vaping on a microcoil with cotton wick is a game changer.

 

[gn386]

Can't seem to locate the organic cotton........ views on boiling 100% cotton? standard stuff you can buy..

 

[Susan~S]

Baditude (our resident battery/safety guru) put this blog post together for anyone interested in getting into Mechanical Mods & RDA's with links on where you can purchase items for rebuilding: Inexpensive Mechanical Mod/RDA Setup

Here is a video on rebuilding your Kanger coils: Mini Protank Micro Coil Rebuild

 

[Susan~S]

Can't seem to locate the organic cotton........ views on boiling 100% cotton? standard stuff you can buy..

Organic cotton balls can often be found at walmart/CSV/higher end grocery stores - i.e Whole Foods, etc./cosmetic stores. Boiling cotton can be done but is a PITA. I did boil a few when I first started but quickly went out and purchased organic.

 

[XBarbarian]

yep.. organic cotton at CVS ( maybe walgreens too ) is a green label. super cheap for a life time supply!

AND MAN, GN386.. YOUR LEARNING QUICK! that's a good thing, and a money saver too! for many of us, this is almost more a hobby than just nic addiction =) you'll graduate to enthusiast in no time!

 

[gn386]

OK I went to Walgreen's and they had the cotton. Time to make my way home and play with some coils. I have seen a few posts that said 12 x 1/16" wraps of 28 ga will fit in the protank 2 coil. That seems to run at 1.1-1.2 ohms. I read that the SVD does not like anything below 1.3. Can I add a wrap or is that the max fit on the protank 2 coil housing? Input?should I go to 30 ga? Just try it? Have seen a few people say they run to .9 but comments say that they might have lost their protection circuit.

 

[coalyard]

IClear 30s. *mic drop*

 

[gn386]

Alright did my first micro coil build in a protank2 coil. Results of the first were failed. 1 wire just wouldn't stay away from the side. Found that when heating to hold and tighten the coils that I put a ever so slight offset on that lead. Worked perfect, before juice was 1.7 at 13 wraps of 28ga around 1/16" bit. After setting the cotton and adding a few drops of juice went down to 1.5. Figured that was ideal for now as a starting point. So you may ask what did I think? Well here's what I thought, I left the amps at where I have been and was not too impressed but yes there was a difference. Then I amped it up to 11amps ok now that was a sweet and slightly warm vape smiling some now, I just couldn't leave it alone. Shot it all the way up to 15a figuring that would burn, well nope the vape was even sweeter if possible and very warm. Big smiles there, even made me stop the pull cause the vapor output was killer. This is for the newbies, Try it you will like it, stock coils cannot compare! The build depends on your abilities, I had about 10 minutes in each start to finish. Thanks for the help/push all! Now I just need to experiment with the nautilus and the protank3.