New FT Maraxus has a BAD Switch

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AMDTrucking

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My brother loved my Maraxus Clone from fast tech so much that I had to just give it to him. I then ordered me the same one again. The new one was a disaster. It would fire some time and some times it won't. The Voltage Drop test showed a huge tolerance: from 3.6V to 2.2V - Not good. Bad switch. I took my old one (my brother's) switch apart and noticed that the mew one doesn't have a Brass Disk behind the Delrin cap/nut.
I went ahead and made the missing Brass Disk and what a difference had it made!
It fires all the time now and hits hard.
I'm wondering if they just forgot to install that part in mine or they just make all Maraxus mods without it. If so that, I'm sure a lot of people will be having the problem I had.

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crxess

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I'm wondering if they just forgot to install that part in mine or they just make all Maraxus mods without it. If so that, I'm sure a lot of people will be having the problem I had.
If you Reordered the Same SKU then it is obviously a Missed part during assembly. Workers world wide are good for making mistakes in a rush to meet production demands, and it is getting worse with weakening economies.

I've been here for quite some time and you would be amazed at the Products I have seen Missing parts, parts Seized, Stripped, Bent, or just plain incorrect for the intended application.
Obviously our little niche is not immune.:glare:

Good thing you have the means to make corrections. I would have had to shop an alternative or sent for warranty replacement.


*How are you liking the Lotus?
 
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AMDTrucking

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*How are you liking the Lotus?

Other then it looks "Cool" on Maraxus - It is NOT a good RDA.
I tried three differed builds:

1. Single 0.45 Ohm 24 Gauge coil right over the FC hole. The FC air hole is not big enough to supply air efficiently and it also whistles.
2. Triple coil of 28 Gauge at 0.45 Ohm. Still not good. Would have been better if it had three air openings on the Top Cap, but it only has one.

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3. Dual 26 Gauge coil at 0.5 Ohm not using the FC hole at all - It appears to be the best setup for this device. You position your Top Cap giant triangular air hole in front of one of the coils (either one, don't ask me why) and it works like an average Dripper. Not the best one by all means.

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I hope this answers your question. Also, after a while, the raw brass piece of the Lotus RDA will tarnish and will no longer match the color of your coted shiny Maraxus brass sections.
 

AMDTrucking

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This is what happens when you buy something just based on its looks... This Lotus RBA is a cool looking crappy engineered device. This is my fourth different build on it. This time it is Dual 24 Gauge Vertical Kanthal Micro Coil/Cotton.
It is significantly better then three previous ones, but not the best vape experience by any means.

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MESAZAK

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I received one off of ebay without the brass disc and a flimsy spring. I was able to check out a 1 off Maraxus clone and it has a higher build quality. Heaver feel and stiffer spring. The owner explained that there are 1 offs (clone of the original) and typically 2nd,3rd,4th offs are clones of a clone or clones of a clone of a clone of the original so on and so forth. Any idea where I could get the brass disc?
 

AMDTrucking

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I received one off of ebay without the brass disc and a flimsy spring. I was able to check out a 1 off Maraxus clone and it has a higher build quality. Heaver feel and stiffer spring. The owner explained that there are 1 offs (clone of the original) and typically 2nd,3rd,4th offs are clones of a clone or clones of a clone of a clone of the original so on and so forth. Any idea where I could get the brass disc?

I made one from a brass rod I bought at KH Metal and Supplies in Riverside, CA
Fast Tech promised to send me a replacement switch for my Maraxus, but I have a strong filling that they are just going to send me another crappy one again. It has been my personal experience with Fast Tech: Whenever they send a "Replacement" for something defective - it always turns out to be the same crappy one as the original or even worse.

I suppose you can take a Brass Washer that is used in toilet installation kit and sand it down to size. Just remember: The outside diameter has to be precise. It has to fit snug into the switch to make a good electrical contact between the body of the switch and the spring. Then and only then you'll get a hard hitting Maraxus that does not misfire. Replacing the spring with better quality silver coted spring is recommended too. BTW: Try replacing the spring first, you may end up not needing the disk, depending upon at what power you are intending to use your Maraxus at.
 

AMDTrucking

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Mine won't fire all the time and the fire button gets really hot


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It usually indicates the Short Atomizer! When the Resistance of your Atomizes is less then the Resistance of your switch. If only the switch was transparent so you could see the spring glow. LOL.
Do you have one of those crazy Sub Ohm builds in your Atty?
Does it fire on another Mod?

If the answer to this question is YES, then you are dealing with the same issue I am: Bad Maraxus switch. Take it apart and see inside. If it doesn't have a Brass Disk/washer described above, then your switch is getting an unstable and unreliable negative connection between the body of the switch and the button itself. The spring is not participating in this process because it is pushing against NON conductive delrin Cap/nut. If you install the Brass Disk like I did - your button will get much more reliable and stable connection through the spring. But the spring has to be a good quality conductive spring for sub-ohm use.
 
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MESAZAK

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May 30, 2014
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I made one from a brass rod I bought at KH Metal and Supplies in Riverside, CA
Fast Tech promised to send me a replacement switch for my Maraxus, but I have a strong filling that they are just going to send me another crappy one again. It has been my personal experience with Fast Tech: Whenever they send a "Replacement" for something defective - it always turns out to be the same crappy one as the original or even worse.

I suppose you can take a Brass Washer that is used in toilet installation kit and sand it down to size. Just remember: The outside diameter has to be precise. It has to fit snug into the switch to make a good electrical contact between the body of the switch and the spring. Then and only then you'll get a hard hitting Maraxus that does not misfire. Replacing the spring with better quality silver coted spring is recommended too. BTW: Try replacing the spring first, you may end up not needing the disk, depending upon at what power you are intending to use your Maraxus at.

put a stiffer spring in and it helped a little but I do still get a hot button from time to time. Question: Does the brass ring sit on top of the cap or inside it? I'm gonna have to figure out how to make one now.
 

MESAZAK

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Please do, because I have no idea how electricity is conducted between two magnets that are not touching each-other. LOL

UPDATE: I installed the magnets and they work great but I still get a hot button, just heats up quicker now. AMD, If you want to start making and selling the washers I will gladly buy one from you;). I usually work 12-14 hours a day with only Sundays off so not much time for R&D. It looks like you tapered your washer to be threaded under the derlin cap, and I assume you drilled the two holes so it can be unscrewed?
 

AMDTrucking

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UPDATE: I installed the magnets and they work great but I still get a hot button, just heats up quicker now. AMD, If you want to start making and selling the washers I will gladly buy one from you;). I usually work 12-14 hours a day with only Sundays off so not much time for R&D. It looks like you tapered your washer to be threaded under the derlin cap, and I assume you drilled the two holes so it can be unscrewed?

I'm sorry man, I'm not a professional machinist either. I'm a Truck Driver.
The Washer is not tapered, it is just snug fit and the holes are so you can remove it with a pair of needle nose pliers. The original one is made that way too. But if you are using the magnets, that defeats the purpose of this modification because the spring will not participate in conducting electricity, because there is no spring. You are at the mercy of getting your electrical connection from the switch button itself rubbing against the switch body. And, as you've already experienced, it is not enough for sub ohm builds. All that switch heat you are experiencing is wasted energy that could have been used to power your coils instead.
 

MESAZAK

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May 30, 2014
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Well, I'm working on forgiving my maraxus. Put the washer in last night and it seems to help quite a bit. Been using it all day. Sometime it feels like the button get warm but it could be in my head. Guess the fact that I'm not sure means it's made a drastic improvement in reliability. No longer worried the thing is gonna blow my face off.


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AMDTrucking

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Good job, man. I knew you'd like it.
I added a Silver coted Beryllium-Copper spring to that mix that I bought on Amazon.com for $10.00.
Panzer-shmenzer, this thing is hitting like a freight train now.
One more thing I'd suggest: Take that upper portion with sharp claws and flip it upside down. You'll like the results.
 
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