welll on the batts i have the aw imr and the trustfire flames is what they are called the the trust fire last me longer and give a stronger hit thought the battier life and the trustfire last about a day and half for me were the aw imr last me about about a day i am using a 5 volt regulated mod box i built my self that is me and my vape pace so
- Status
The kGo has arrived! 1st Battery is on the charger with a few hours left to go. I'm sure many others have felt the slow painful agony of that first charge before getting to use your new device. 
I took a piece of 4x4 and made a desk holder for both bats and spare parts. Not pretty, just functional....it is Afghanistan after all.
As an afterthought, I realized I probably should have diversified my carto selection. They are all 1.5ohm DC SmokTechs in tank, XL, and XXXXL (EMDCC). Maybe should have skipped the EMDCCs and gone with some Boge and Smoktech single coils in assorted resistance to what see I prefer. I've been reading a lot of good stuff on BogeLR's and the Smok 1.7s "Resurrectors".
I took a piece of 4x4 and made a desk holder for both bats and spare parts. Not pretty, just functional....it is Afghanistan after all.
As an afterthought, I realized I probably should have diversified my carto selection. They are all 1.5ohm DC SmokTechs in tank, XL, and XXXXL (EMDCC). Maybe should have skipped the EMDCCs and gone with some Boge and Smoktech single coils in assorted resistance to what see I prefer. I've been reading a lot of good stuff on BogeLR's and the Smok 1.7s "Resurrectors".
So the 1100mAh kGo battery has lasted me 2 days and nearly 4ml. I think that brings new hope to a 900mAh 14500 lasting me through a full day. 48 hours into vaping and only 3 cigarettes, compared to what would normally be 40+ smokes. I'm hooked, this IS the answer I've been looking for.
Anymore thoughts on the switch placement? Anyone ever attempted to put the switch at the top? I'm placing orders tomorrow, put it will still be a month before I can experiment for myself.
Anymore thoughts on the switch placement? Anyone ever attempted to put the switch at the top? I'm placing orders tomorrow, put it will still be a month before I can experiment for myself.
Last edited:
You can do all manner of things. I know you aren't trying to build a bottom feeder but, to see some of the different possibilities, take a look at http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/95728-tutorial-juicebox-around-8-a.html. There are lots of ideas in there. Read through it far enough and you'll see my very first, very sloppy mod build. I got better. 
So the orders are placed from DigiKey & eBay, Madvapes order will be soon. I've finished the Model with close to accurate dimensions and made some changes to the wiring, smaller MOSFET, and added a common bus perfboard to save on multiple wire solder joints.
I was generous with the diameter of the carto, and strict with the width of the battery trough. I did this to give me an idea of minimum clearance between the carto & switch. I will be just fine if the real thing has .8mm or greater clearance like the model shows.
Cant wait to get home and build this. The kGO is great and is the only reason that I'm off the nails, but it's a PITA to pocket carry.
I was generous with the diameter of the carto, and strict with the width of the battery trough. I did this to give me an idea of minimum clearance between the carto & switch. I will be just fine if the real thing has .8mm or greater clearance like the model shows.
Cant wait to get home and build this. The kGO is great and is the only reason that I'm off the nails, but it's a PITA to pocket carry.
Looks right to me. I've built almost the same thing with a 3 battery box and a 3ml bottle as a bottom feeder. Worked great!
So the switch will fit...
The hole has to be cut all the way to the inside and bottom of the slot.
For the charging connector I just enlarged the existing hole that the wires were ran through.
Just waiting for my new soldering iron to be delivered today to take care of the wiring and this (and 2 other boxes) will be done and ready to go.
The hole has to be cut all the way to the inside and bottom of the slot.
For the charging connector I just enlarged the existing hole that the wires were ran through.
Just waiting for my new soldering iron to be delivered today to take care of the wiring and this (and 2 other boxes) will be done and ready to go.
I did. And another modders also
This is mine: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ck-boost-stick-based-happy-vaper-booster.html
Top switch is better for safety - it does not push in your pocket...
Welcome Rader and congratulations on your nice looking mod. Thank You for standing up for protecting our freedom also.
I have a suggestion for you on the charger bits. These are a couple of high charge rate chargers that I get and mount inside AAA bat boxes. Run a dc jack off of the box.
This one is usb connector only
This one has usb and barrel jack taps.
PS Go ahead and throw the rest of that pack of analogs away. They will go stale.
May you always have backup ecig parts on hand. peace out.
I have a suggestion for you on the charger bits. These are a couple of high charge rate chargers that I get and mount inside AAA bat boxes. Run a dc jack off of the box.
This one is usb connector only
This one has usb and barrel jack taps.
PS Go ahead and throw the rest of that pack of analogs away. They will go stale.
May you always have backup ecig parts on hand. peace out.
Last edited:
From what I understand, aw imrs (li-mn) are best used in regulated mods, or mods with added protection circuitry... While the *fires (li-ion) do put out less voltage underload, and don't hold voltage as well, they may be "safer" in unregulated mods due to thier protection pcbs... Imrs seem to be the "safest" option when used in regulated or otherwise protected mods.
I know this battery safety stuff is hard to wrap your head around, least it was for me at first, but the above advice came from some folks here on ecf who really seem to know thier stuff...
I know this battery safety stuff is hard to wrap your head around, least it was for me at first, but the above advice came from some folks here on ecf who really seem to know thier stuff...
Good luck to you and THANK YOU for what you do for all of us...take good care...Lee
I'm not sure I totally agree. My understanding and experience is that IMRs are capable of delivering more amps safely than the protected cells. However when shorted they get hot but, don't do all manner of nasty things like start fires and blow your face off the way unprotected cells can. In my own experience, when I used 510s, the X-fires worked fine but, when I went to 901s, they started popping their protection circuits. IMRs didn't have that problem.
My guess and it's just a guess is that 901s have a tendency to develop momentary shorts when they build up gunk. I could never prove that with an ohmmeter because the act of removing the atomizer dislodged the gunk. So, it's just speculation.
The analogs are already long gone.
I have the USB charger board that you linked to. Its part of a special project that I just finished. Pics coming soon.
Um, imrs can do nasty things. Though I also like how they perform better. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ures-serious-battery-failure-imr-18650-a.html
Last edited:
- Status
Similar threads
