Good to know! I hope that I didn't ruin any seals as I was digging inside with a toothpick. We will see. The one thing that I know for sure, I won't be sticking anymore q-tips into the tank!
New Joyetech 20watt eGrip
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Good to know! I hope that I didn't ruin any seals as I was digging inside with a toothpick. We will see. The one thing that I know for sure, I won't be sticking anymore q-tips into the tank!
Yeah. I searched high and low for it and couldn't find it. Looks nice!
With a little help from MacTechVpr and Cigatron....I came up with a jig to make some coils and it worked GREAT !!
2.4mm brazing rod and a block of wood... 28ga @ 9 wraps should be approx. 1.5ohm counting legs.
Thanks guys, now to try one out
2.4mm brazing rod and a block of wood... 28ga @ 9 wraps should be approx. 1.5ohm counting legs.
Thanks guys, now to try one out
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Go easy on the sanding as it only takes sanding off a few thousandths of an inch to begin to see rotation. Make sure the sandpaper is on a very flat surface and rotate the chimney 90° every few sanding strokes to ensure equal amounts of material are removed; also ensures the end of the chimney stays perpendicular to the sides.
Good luck
NOT ALWAYS! Some revisions have a hidden screw underneath the top cover. After removing the four screws you have to pry up on the cover to strip out the screw. Can you guess where the metal shavings go? Right into the control board circuitry in my case. Killed my egrip!!!
Cig
Just to clarify that the rba sleeve 4 holes in relation to the coil should be in an X formation, meaning that no two holes should be in alignment with the two screws on the deck, correct?
Because then that's my issue. Two of the sleeve holes on mine line directly by the deck screws.
Please keep us posted on the sanding of the sleeve and how it turns out. I'm curious as to the outcome and if it will rectify the issue.
Because then that's my issue. Two of the sleeve holes on mine line directly by the deck screws.
Please keep us posted on the sanding of the sleeve and how it turns out. I'm curious as to the outcome and if it will rectify the issue.
View attachment 408053 Top down view - looking at your rba base & coil with the sleeve on and top cap off.
Excuse my makeshift drawing, but here is where i inserted some additional cotton - (marked in the red arrows) where previously was without any cotton wick.
I just refilled my tank, took a few drags and so far success!
No leaks coming out thru the bottom rba base inner hole.
Let's see now after I let it sit if it will stay dry. (fingers crossed)
After reading the earlier posts and doing some thinking, I figured it was worth a shot since my sleeve doesn't line up correctly.
Excuse my makeshift drawing, but here is where i inserted some additional cotton - (marked in the red arrows) where previously was without any cotton wick.
I just refilled my tank, took a few drags and so far success!
No leaks coming out thru the bottom rba base inner hole.
Let's see now after I let it sit if it will stay dry. (fingers crossed)
After reading the earlier posts and doing some thinking, I figured it was worth a shot since my sleeve doesn't line up correctly.
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Top down view - looking at your rba base & coil with the sleeve on and top cap off.
Try a pipe cleaner next time. Or check out the cosmetic department for small brushes. I think small paint brushes might scratch the glass.
If you REALLY worry about stuff lingering in your tank, fill it about half full with cheap vodka. reinstall base, and shake. Drain and rinse with water (using the same procedure). Let air dry
Yes pilot, mine are in the x config as you describe. No juice holes line up with the posts
I can honestly say that I never thought of this. I'll do that next time. Thanks.
With a little help from MacTechVpr and Cigatron....I came up with a jig to make some coils and it worked GREAT !!
2.4mm brazing rod and a block of wood... 28ga @ 9 wraps should be approx. 1.5ohm counting legs.
Thanks guys, now to try one out
View attachment 408035 View attachment 408036
I think that's a great start on your hand made jig. Can't see how you secured the starting lead as that pic won't expand. But good job.
The main thing we want to shoot for is "sticky", or adhesion. A true microcoil will oxidize as a unit much better than anything short of that. Lot of folks winding on a lot of things here on ECF without any idea what the goal is. A tensioned microcoil wants to be a coil. In a t.m.c. you've infused enough energy through the strain for the wire to continue to pull in on itself once that pressure on the wire is relaxed. If you don't get to that particular point of stretching the wire you may impart form; that is; you merely added enough energy to the wire for it to hold its shape. Although if not enough to get the wire as close together as the two surfaces may be forced, it will not be enough to keep them pulling in on each other. In other words, more than enough to get 'em holdin' hands but not shoulder to shoulder. So not quite a truly functional microcoil but a close contact coil. What we would have called a short before the microcoil.
That's the ticket SW. If we get that basic idea we can make a t.m.c. with any instrument that helps us apply strain. Some I've seen being sold won't. Others won't let you do it consistently. Either of those will leave the potential for hotspots or irregular distribution of heat across the wire and/or leads. All things that mess up the vape, waste energy, juice and a good time. They may look pretty but might as well hand wind it 'cause the results could be just as bad and maybe even worse if too much strain was applied at just the wrong places. Then your vape may end up tasting hot, dry and nasty like a loose connection.
Symmetry is all about equality. And that means a consistent vape.
Good luck all. Just hail me by PM anytime if you need some input or answers or on the Tensioned Micro Coils. The next step. or Protank MicroCoil Discussion!! threads. I'll be trackin' here on Subtank attributes, bugs and developments.
Good luck all.
p.s. Don't forget to de-wind the first couple'a three turns. They're usually not up to the same even strain as the rest.
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Unless of course you build the diy cigamajig shown in my blog; in which case no unwinding is necessary because every turn is wound to perfection with very little practice. Wastes less wire too. Just say'n
Unless of course you build the diy cigamajig shown in my blog; in which case no unwinding is necessary because every turn is wound to perfection with very little practice. Wastes less wire too. Just say'n
If you're that good you can get up to "sticky" on that first turn, you're a better man than I.
I'm blind as a bat. The magnifier's always close by.
G'luck cig.
I didn't buy it, saw it from the net. It's a faux leather sticker if not mistaken. Looks cool though
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