Yep. All of this. EXACTLY.
And don't overfill.
As with any other tank or dripper, overfilling, or overzealous filling will make it leak and gurgle.
New Joyetech 20watt eGrip
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Yep. All of this. EXACTLY.
And don't overfill.
As with any other tank or dripper, overfilling, or overzealous filling will make it leak and gurgle.
For the hell of it decided to twist my own coil today for the rba. Nothing special, just tried to match the factory build. Using factory supplied rba wire came out at 1.4Ω and wicked with ... organic cotton. I've found, at least for me, that I get better results if the wick tails are ~1/8" shorter on either side of the coil than the factory coil/wick replacement assemblies. The particular cotton I'm using seems marginally better than the factory stuff.
I love this little device! The rba as delivered with spare parts, screwdriver, wire, cotton, wicked coil assemblies for $12 is an excellent value.
I love this little device! The rba as delivered with spare parts, screwdriver, wire, cotton, wicked coil assemblies for $12 is an excellent value.
Gee, where to start?
The four juice holes will end up in a different position on each rba due to machining/process tolerances. For every three peeps with the holes lined up one way three are three peeps with them lined up the other.That's why they drilled four. So no matter which way the holes end up you can at least wick in front of two.
If you wick in front of none of the holes it will flood every time even at max wattage. If your vape is getting hot and harsh but not burny you are flooding.
There are plenty of blogs here on ecf if you want to bone up on low pressure tank dynamics.
Most veteran vapers will confirm my assertions regarding the superior symmetry of tension wound coils including MacTechVpr, the one responsible for introducing them to ECF. Compression winding or hand winding will not produce the uniformity of the internally stored energy in the wire referred to as strain. In our case compressive strain. Strain is the energy all materials contain which resist an external force called stress. Plenty of info on the net regarding these terms.
Cohesion is a term reserved in material science to relate to molecular attraction in liquids; not solids like alumina or wire. Plenty on the net to study on here too.
You were right about the amount to sand off of the chimney tube. It's not .005"....it's .0025". The thread pitch of the tube threading is .5mm. That means it changes in height .5mm per revolution. We only need to rotate it 1/8 of a revolution worst case to align the holes. Sooooooo......( .5mm ÷ 8 = .0625mm = .0025"). About the thickness of a hair. Hey, you were right about that too.
Back to the game,
Cig
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Wow +100* during January? Sounds like you work in a foundry.
When my egrip isn't leaking from the bottom then i'm getting a mouthful of e liquid. It's really starting to get on my nerves.
Back to the Kanger SubTank Mini.
Gee, where to start?
The four juice holes will end up in a different position on each rba due to machining/process tolerances. For every three peeps with the holes lined up one way three are three peeps with them lined up the other.That's why they drilled four. So no matter which way the holes end up you can at least wick in front of two.
If you wick in front of none of the holes it will flood every time even at max wattage. If your vape is getting hot and harsh but not burny you are flooding.
There are plenty of blogs here on ecf if you want to bone up on low pressure tank dynamics.
Most veteran vapers will confirm my assertions regarding the superior symmetry of tension wound coils including MacTechVpr, the one responsible for introducing them to ECF. Compression winding or hand winding will not produce the uniformity of the internally stored energy in the wire referred to as strain. In our case compressive strain. Strain is the energy all materials contain which resist an external force called stress. Plenty of info on the net regarding these terms.
Cohesion is a term reserved in material science to relate to molecular attraction in liquids; not solids like alumina or wire. Plenty on the net to study on here too.
You were right about the amount to sand off of the chimney tube. It's not .005"....it's .0025". The thread pitch of the tube threading is .5mm. That means it changes in height .5mm per revolution. We only need to rotate it 1/8 of a revolution worst case to align the holes. Sooooooo......( .5mm ÷ 8 = .0625mm = .0025"). About the thickness of a hair. Hey, you were right about that too.
Back to the game,
Cig
Nope. Try sanding off that much, and see how it works. It doesn't.
Stop trying to be a brilliant scientist and VAPE.
Symmetry of coils has nothing to do with tension.
Thanks for playing.
[emoji2]
Sorry, I'm not even reading everything. I'm tired and disgusted at the Seahawks throwing the superbowl away...
My Popping has gone away with the addition of VG, So now I just have the snap and crackle. ...
My Popping has gone away with the addition of VG, So now I just have the snap and crackle. ...
to dry burn the coils since I don't have the 510 base , I heat up the coil with a torch lighter on the rba base. I aim the flame vertically over the coil and lower it carefully to avoid heating the base works great.
Until I broke down and bought the 510 rba adapter I was dry burning coils using a burner on my gas range. It worked well enough with no negative effects other than using a little bit of gas.
I thought of an experiment to see if cotton covering the holes or not was contributing to leaking problems that more than a few have reported. Leaking has been reported consistently throughout this thread, not by a lot of people, but obviously its not just one or two having a whinge, and it seems to be leaving those with no leaking issues scratching their heads, including me. I took the rba out and removed the rayon wick and refitted it with no wick, no cotton, no rayon, nothing at all except the coil.
I drew air through it occasionally to check for gurgling, no gurgling, just like sucking air through a clean straw. I sat it on the table with less than half a tank of juice and the juice level remained the same for over 3 hours. I shook it, turned it upside-down. There was not one drop coming out the bottom of the rba base, nothing, nada, tight as, no leakage at all. 3 hours and not one drop leaking from anywhere. So I don't think the cotton covering the holes has anything to do with leaking. (Maybe it has a bit to do with wicking). This was with 55/45 PG/VG.
Over 3 hours later I put the same wick back in, only 2 holes covered this time, seems to be working fine. If you wanted to use the whole 20W maybe 4 holes covered would be better, but I don't go there so I don't know.
My experience makes me feel like I could write this same rant.
The reviews of the device are what made me buy it & I am an experienced vaper & so far my TWO eGrips have been junk! #1 USB port broke & fell out. #2 leaks from top & bottom.
You just saved me a lot of anguish. I bought the RBA section for my wife's eGrip a couple of weeks ago, and the pre-installed coil worked very well. Although I'm experienced in coil building, I was a bit lazy yesterday, and just replaced the first one with one of the coils that came in the packet. Then the weird stuff started. Blinking light, unless I backed off the RBA a bit - but that made it leak. Checked screws, checked coil, tried again, removed, tried again, tried other pre-built coil... and what I intended to be a quick fix soon turned into a 2 hour swear and leak fest.
So today I started reading this thread, saw your post, internal light bulb came on, created my own coil with 29AWG, wicked it, and it worked perfectly fine...
I don't have the RBA adaptor yet (ordered one) so it was difficult to measure, but the multimeter saw 1.18 ohm on the pre-built coil.
I'm assuming that a "bad" contact (not screw in the RBA in all the way on purpose) added just enough to the resistance to get it over 1.2. But as soon as it was in all the way, it was blinky blinky time.
Conclusion: don't assume the included coils are the right resistance, and you really need the RBA adapter to check out the builds. Also, need new eyes.
Today i got the 2nd rba that i ordered as backup and wanted to compare it to see if holes match, both have identical hole positions, maybe i got lucky but i dont think so. There is a chance that some users got cloned rbas because i saw various priced rbas with different looking top caps, looks like it got cloned already.
You just saved me a lot of anguish. I bought the RBA section for my wife's eGrip a couple of weeks ago, and the pre-installed coil worked very well. Although I'm experienced in coil building, I was a bit lazy yesterday, and just replaced the first one with one of the coils that came in the packet. Then the weird stuff started. Blinking light, unless I backed off the RBA a bit - but that made it leak. Checked screws, checked coil, tried again, removed, tried again, tried other pre-built coil... and what I intended to be a quick fix soon turned into a 2 hour swear and leak fest.
So today I started reading this thread, saw your post, internal light bulb came on, created my own coil with 29AWG, wicked it, and it worked perfectly fine...
I don't have the RBA adaptor yet (ordered one) so it was difficult to measure, but the multimeter saw 1.18 ohm on the pre-built coil.
I'm assuming that a "bad" contact (not screw in the RBA in all the way on purpose) added just enough to the resistance to get it over 1.2. But as soon as it was in all the way, it was blinky blinky time.
Conclusion: don't assume the included coils are the right resistance, and you really need the RBA adapter to check out the builds. Also, need new eyes.
Another member suggested to spread the coils out some (stretch). I'm happy to say it worked. I'm able to get 1.4 on all the pre-build coils.
Don't have to try sanding it. Mine is aligned correctly. Try it yourself by measuring from the top of the chimney tube to the rba base before and after rotating the chinmey 45°. The difference measures .0025" on mine with a digital dial caliper. The math is there as well cello.
Never claimed to be brilliant or a scientist. I have dabbled in physics as far back as I can remember though and apply the principles wherever applicable.
You can disagree with math and science, it's your prerogative, but it doesn't make it less true.
Vertical has been my go-to build on this RBA. 3/32" drill bit fits perfectly in the air hole to align the coil while getting it mounted up. Have had better luck with the wraps of the coil spaced out a bit instead of touching, but that's just my preference. Then to wick it I cut a strip off a japanese cotton pad, separate it into thinner layers and wrap the layers around the coil until you have your preferred amount of cotton in there. I usually add a layer around the outside of the coil posts to block off the two juice holes that line up with the posts and are normally difficult to wick. Latest vertical build I have has been going strong for 2+ weeks
I posted several a month ago, lol
Since then I've rebuilt it using twisted 32ga kanthal, still spaced coil, still around 1.5ohm. Getting better flavor compared to the 28ga.
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Love to see folks interested enough to experiment ian444.
No doubt, it did not leak. Try that experiment with a kanger protank and it would leak out the entire tank. The difference is in the location of the juice entry ways with respect to the airtube in the atty.
On an egrip the juice holes are located below the airtube in the atty chamber. The juice will flow out of the tank only until low pressure (vacuum) developes in the tank air above the juice. At this point the juice level has risen above level of the juice holes inside the atty but not high enough to flow down the airtube and out the bottom of the rba. Because the juice level is high enough to cover the juice holes air can not easily enter the tank through them. If air cannot enter the tank to releave the low pressure no more juice will come out. It is now in a state of balance or equilibrium.
Even though gravity and molecular stretch of the tank air play a small role in the equation we won't go there...complicates this topic.
When wicking is presented into the equation some things change. The wicking absorbs the juice and delivers it to the coil where it is vaporized. This drops the level of the juice in the atty juice well making it easier for the vacuum in the tank to pull an air bubble backwards through the juice holes and into the tank. That air bubble releaves some of the tank vacuum which allows juice to flow through the juice holes once again until tank vacuum increases again bringing everything into a state of balance.
The wicking density and positioning not only controls juice flow to the coil but also acts as a kind of air control valve regulating the amount of air allowed to enter into the tank after each draw. More air bubbles into the tank = more juice out. Too much juice out = flooding. Not leaking...flooding eg harse taste, hot vapor and sometimes gurgling. Flooding can lead to leaking in some devices but the egrip seems to handle it quite well.
It only takes small changes in wick positioning to accommodate the use of juices from high vg to high pg ratios. For high pg I cover/block all four juice holes. For high vg I only cover only two holes. For 50/50 I cover all four holes and then poke a needle through the juice holes to make small air/juice pathways. Love this device, it allows for customizing my vape better than my other rtas that have juice channels instead of holes.
Sorry for the long and technical post...just trying to help those who want to know...the rest can just ignore. There's a .... for every seat.
Cig
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I posted several a month ago, lol
Since then I've rebuilt it using twisted 32ga kanthal, still spaced coil, still around 1.5ohm. Getting better flavor compared to the 28ga.
Very nice and thanks for the info / reposting again.
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