new member wielding modified protank!

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kmksubled

Full Member
Dec 2, 2013
21
42
california
yup.

just wanted to say hello and talk briefly about my protank II experience ,I have been vaping for 6 months, I have been using a protank for about 3 months now, it got me completely of the combustion sticks, (some of us used to actually burn tabaco to get nicotine I was one).

now lets talk protank. I have had my share of frustration with the protank. I have learned all the tricks that help ward off nasty floods and the low airflow effect. I found it best to never use a new coil out of the box , always taking apart the coils and removing the wick atop the coil b4 placing a piece of 2mm silica wick over the coil to prevent flooding. and to improve airflow backing the coil down by turning it about 3/4 a turn clockwise b4 snugging the 510 plate down. this gets the protank working extremely well.but I like to tinker and would never leave well enough alone.

soon I was rebuilding the coils with my own spool of kanthol wire playing with the ohms, going lower and lower trying to make the protank give a better more flavorfull bigger vape, (Please note this was not done with just good intentions, it is very important to know what voltage your battery is putting out and what amps it can carry continuously safely) also I would not recommend anyone alter the design of any device as you are liable to destroy it. so with a protank in one hand and a volt-ohm meter in the other I began making improvements. here is what happened.

I noticed right off that you will make the coil run way to hot in the tiny, poorly ventilated chamber it rests in, right around 1.2 ohms @ 3.7 volts it the taste of the vape goes south. So I grabbed the dremel tool ,put on some safety glasses and carefully removed some material that i deemed to be unnecessary , I made the grooves deeper on the 510 plate and increased the size or the vent holes through the 510 threads significantly.also I increased the size of the notches in the female 510 adapter on the mechanical mod itself, then very carefully increased the bore on the coil chimney and the plug on the positive contact point of the coil assembly as much as I could . there is actualy quite a bit to work with there . after all this the vape was still a little foul with the down to 0.8 Ohm. so i just made coils @ 1.2 and it works very well. then i started playing with pure cotton wick in one of my RBA's. and got to thinking . this would work great in the protank cause it is submerged and it has much better wick-ability then silica.

after all the R&D i have a protank that will pull very big clouds with flavor smooth and silky . the end result is a protank with a 0.75 Ohm coil threaded with cotton to pull the juice fast enough, & ported out airways inside and out . powered by a 4.2-3.5 volt battery in a k100 pulling 5.6 amps peak fresh charge. real nice clouds for the set up , now obviously it is not as nice vape as some drip RBA's pulling more amps, but for a tank set up with 2.5 ml of juice and considering the battery will support heavy vaping for over 6 hours easy, it is a wonderful on the go every day "grocery getter" type contraption I have here. :)
 

kmksubled

Full Member
Dec 2, 2013
21
42
california
unfortunately I used small (unlabeled)diamond cone and round burs , and did a bit of reaming to get the result. using some primitive terms and rough guessing, I will say the 3 holes in the 510 threads gave the biggest air flow improvement and are very close to 3/32 inch , as far as the coil body , we are talking very small amounts of change . the chimney is now almost razor sharp as there is not much left. same with the positive contact lug nut looking piece although through my trials I did find that when working with the small positive contact piece, it is very important to taper the tube side that goes into the rubber/plastic insulator because when you bore it out it becomes very sharp and it will slice the insulator when you assemble the coil body, filling with shreaded rubber and blocking the flow.

the 2 slots at the base of the 510 adapter are milled to about 1/4 more there original depth and width. that has more to do with the way my kamary k100 attaches to the tank . the 4 notches in the kamry k100 female 510 conector are taken all the way down to the first thread and very slightly widend, this also made a big difference in airflow . and when i put the coil in the tank I back it down as far as possible , too far and it won't fire .
 

InTheShade

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 26, 2013
4,122
4,884
South Texas
Vape-ineer - love it :laugh:

Awesome write-up kmksubled and welcome to the forum. I need to do this with an old pro-tank1 I have had gathering dust on the shelf since I started vaping. I never really thought to bust out the dremmel and hack it to bits until it actually works like it should.

Have you messed around with different coil setups? - I was reading a thread where someone has managed to get dual coils into a protank - one vertically below the normal one, at least that is how I think it was described... let me see if I can find the link.

EDIT - not a dual coil, just a single vertical coil as far as I can make out. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/general-e-smoking-discussion/504014-reverse-wick-coil-2.html link to pictorial is on page 2.
 
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Iquitcigs

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Oct 27, 2013
256
90
Kent uk
Excellent. I'd like to see some pictures. I have a soft spot for the PT2 and have 2 of them. They definitely could work better and I think the op here is on the right track. Opening it up is whats really needed. This guy should go to work for kangar!

no not kanger he should start making a pt clone for himself and cash in on there inability to get it right
 

nostinkies

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Oct 30, 2013
276
213
Kayfun Nirvana!
I just started using the Pro tank 3 and have had poor vape and leaking tanks on two different units. I have it on the Lavatube by volcano and wonder if anyone else is having issues ? I cannot pm so if you can shoot me a pm on what you did to make it work it would be appreciated..thanks
Roger
.


You might try posting this issue in a thread with the protank3's. We are talking about modding a PT2. The 3 uses a totally different atty.
 

kmksubled

Full Member
Dec 2, 2013
21
42
california
Vape-ineer -

Have you messed around with different coil setups? - I was reading a thread where someone has managed to get dual coils into a protank - one vertically below the normal one, at least that is how I think it was described... let me see if I can find the link.

yes I have actually funny because I was looking around in this forum and I came across a post by someone who did a inverted micro coil , I took one look at it and knew I was off the work bench .right now as I type I am vaping the design with a 1 ohm micro coil, it works very well , only thing i did different is made the coil a touch bigger diameter cause you know I am all about the airflow, now that I know some of you will want to know exactly what diameters and all the numbers that make great vape I am trying to keep track . the coil I made was 3/32 inside diameter gone around 6 times with 28 gauge kanthol. now it is actually 6 and a half cause the way the leads end up for this design. I did it just cause I can .. honestly it is way to much work for most but dang it it looks so cool. and the air goes right through the coil . I will say it works as good as a 1 ohm the traditional way . and I bet I try making one around .7 soon. gota give Credit to Big Screen D and this post!!!http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-micro-coil-build-aro-evod-protank-heads.html

the reson I have not added pics is because I don't have a camera that can capture the detail of the subjects , I will get one soon just for this lol in the mean time here is a low quality pic as I was wading the cotton on the inverted coil.
 

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kmksubled

Full Member
Dec 2, 2013
21
42
california
Yeah Really. I DO have one question.. How much drippage or leakage are you getting outta the bottom of that thing onto the battery post top???? The reason I ask is you are opening that bottom hole up on the tank. I was forever wiping my battery pin with the stock setup and my home built attys.

I am not getting any leakage . the only place juice can get through to the battery is were the wick goes through the sides of the coil body , also the protank2 is faulty by design in that if you screw the kanger coil all the way into the 510 plate adapter it will barely seal at the tube end and sometimes it wont seal and this causes alot of leakage. this is one reason I back the coil down into the tank as much as possible ofcorse to far and you wont make contact to the positive terminal and it wont fire. as far as leakage through the wick it is simple carboration, you need enough wick to hold surface tension , but enough flow to keep up . cotton works best in this application especially @ .75 ohm , this thing bubbles like a sparkletts bottle in a office water cooler every time I take a drag . moving alot of juice :)
 

Nologicone

Full Member
Verified Member
Nov 17, 2013
39
19
49
Bay Area, CA
I have to take back the comment regarding backing off 3/4 turn. It's working great when I'm at home the whole day but once I took it out of the house, it leaked onto the firing pin of my mod. No biggie, since usually by the time it wet the firing pin so much, you can tell the mod seems to lose it's power and is "lazy" to fire up. Cleaned up the leak, lightly seat in the coil assembly, all good to go again.

So what I learned is that the coil doesn't need to be tightly fasten to prevent a leak onto the firing pin...it's how well the tank holds the pressure inside that matters more. What worked great at home the whole day may not be the case once we step out of the house into a different environment. Just have to find the balance. Thanks!
 
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