New- RDA ohms to coil size and turn / tank questions...

[Pedrobear]

Hi guys!

Been lurking a little bit and wanted to ask some question if you experienced guys don't mind!

Lil bio for 1st post: Im 30, almost 31, been smoking newports for the past 15 years, pack a day until last Wednesday, when my wife and I decided we need to stop. (for many many reasons) So, I grabed a Vuse from the local gas station and tried it out, loved the idea but it was just crap (the Vuse) So we went to our local vape shop and spent 3 hours there learning about vaping! I ended up walking out with a Vamo V5 / Natulis tank / and some juice to slowly withdraw off the nic but still get the smoke I enjoy. Wife got something "pretty" and that's a whole nother post lol. The Vamo stoped working after 2-3 days, just wouldnt turn on, even with fresh batterys, so I had a cig relapse Went back to the store, and they offered a new one, but I declined and just grabed an eGO-V to hold me over. Few other reasons why I didnt take the replacement Vamo, but....

Still have a working setup and Im now cig free for 3 days!

So after some research, I ordered a new VS rDNA. Seems like its got the power, the USB to charge, which is huge for me, comes with a good battery, and seems like great pock-ability to carry around at work while I try to wheem myself down and off the nic altogether.

Now 1 thing Im not getting with my currect setup is that really nice cloud and thick, hard hits. Well, I read need to dive into RDA's as they are the best for what Im missing from my newports.

Im looking at 2: The Tugboat and KF. They both seem to be not huge and smoke like a boss, tuff enough to carry in my pocket, but I worry the TB will not hold enough juice / leak. The KF seems to be quite longer in size then I would prefer :/ Not sure which one to buy yet as Im a newbie builder, which brings me to my questions. I looked at the ohms/length chart but things Im confused about:

How does the size / coil turns relate to resistance created? The different coil turns to coil size created is what Im really curious about...

My natulis is using the 1.6ohm, but I think I wanna drop to around 1ohm, right? to produce the bigger hits etc..,

I have a fluke MM I used for auto-mechanics, Im assuming I can check my new coils with that instead of buying that special one? The coil itself, all the videos I see have people checking with it installed already.... Does the RDA housing create additional resistance you account for while building?

When installing the coil, what are the possibility of it getting "bogged down" while vaping and touch base and thus shorting the system?

Bonus; Does the DNA30 chip have a protection if a short were to happen, its not going to blow up in my face? The rDNA I ordered comes with a Sony VTC4 battery.


Thanks for reading and/or help!

 

[State O' Flux]

How does the size / coil turns relate to resistance created? The different coil turns to coil size created is what Im really curious about.
The number of wraps, and the coil ID is relevant only in the sense that it requires X length of X gauge wire to produce them. It's the length and thickness of wire, from terminal to terminal, that determines resistance - nothing else.
If you have 67mm of 28 gauge Kanthal, the resistance will be 1.2Ω - period. If it's 8 wraps on a 2mm mandrel (2mm ID), it's 1.2Ω... or 10 wraps on a 1.5mm mandrel... it's still 1.2Ω. I can go on and on with these examples.
In auto mechanics, the appropriate gauge of wire is used to carry current, and just like you wouldn't use 24 gauge wire to carry the current from battery to starter, or 0 gauge to power a tail light... in vaping, you use the appropriate wire "size" for the desired resistance/current load balance.
See the Steam Engine coil modeling calculator in my first sig line... and "build" some sample coils.

I have a fluke MM I used for auto-mechanics, Im assuming I can check my new coils with that instead of buying that special one?
Yes. The "ohm/build boxes" you see are convenient as they allow a secure location for you to build on... but are not a true substitute for a DMM, and are not an absolute necessity.
Assuming one actually understands what and why they're testing... anyone who uses rechargeable batteries, unregulated mech mods and rebuildables should have a decent DMM, for checking resistance, continuity and voltage. An understanding of Ohm's Law, as it relates to vaping, or at least an understanding of how to use an OL calculator and the input/output values... is highly beneficial.

The coil itself, all the videos I see have people checking with it installed already.... Does the RDA housing create additional resistance you account for while building?
No, it does not add any additional resistance, unless there is a issue with the RBA itself. Normally, an RBA has zero resistance... or looking at it from a mechanics perspective, 100% continuity and conductivity. Again, like the non-existent resistance you'd encounter running a tail light through a battery cable.

When installing the coil, what are the possibility of it getting "bogged down" while vaping and touch base and thus shorting the system? "Bogged down"? I'm guessing, based on the rest of your sentence, you mean a "hard short" to ground. Knowing the language of basic electrical elements and diagnostics will be beneficial, both here, and in your line of work.
A hard short occurring entirely on it's own, is almost impossible... unless for some unknown reason, you would open up the atty and start poking at the coil until it contacts a ground surface. Even then, Kanthal wire, once heated a few times, develops an aluminum oxide insulative layer, protecting it (to a small degree) from a hard short.

Bonus; Does the DNA30 chip have a protection if a short were to happen, its not going to blow up in my face?
Yes... I can't actually think of any regulated APVs that do not have short protection.

Thanks for reading and/or help!

I suggest you click on my second sig line hyperlink and read the article, as well as all articles linked within. Doing so will improve your knowledge base, safety and vaping happiness considerably.

 

[Bunnykiller]

coil resistance is based off of wire ( Kanthal/nichrome) length and wire diameter... the longer the wire the more resistance it has the THINNER the wire the more resistance it has a long thin wire has more resistance than a short thick wire
when making coils, the larger the dia of the coil and the more wraps created results in more resistance ( higher ohms).

even tho you have a multimeter, it may not be sensitive enuf to measure low ohm range accurately.... spend the extra 15-25$ and get the dedicated ohm meter for vaping.. you WANT to know what you are putting on top of that battery...

and here is a Excel sheet that can help you when building coils too...

View attachment vapecoils.xlsx

 

[Baditude]

So after some research, I ordered a new VS rDNA. Seems like its got the power, the USB to charge, which is huge for me, comes with a good battery, and seems like great pock-ability to carry around at work while I try to wheem myself down and off the nic altogether.

Now 1 thing Im not getting with my currect setup is that really nice cloud and thick, hard hits. Well, I read need to dive into RDA's as they are the best for what Im missing from my newports.

Im looking at 2: The Tugboat and KF. They both seem to be not huge and smoke like a boss, tuff enough to carry in my pocket, but I worry the TB will not hold enough juice / leak. The KF seems to be quite longer in size then I would prefer :/ Not sure which one to buy yet as Im a newbie builder

State O' Flux gave you all the technical info for your other questions. I'll add what IMO will answer your other question above.

To get the thick dense clouds of vapor, the easiest solution would be a RDA, or rebuildable drip atomizer. Like a Patriot, Tugboat, or Magma. These will have a deeper/larger volume drip well to hold more e-liquid between drips/vaping. You'll need to eventually build coils with an overall resistance below 1.0 ohms (sub-ohm). Your DNA device should be able to fire a coil of 0.3 ohms or higher. So, your target resistance range should be 0.3 ohm to 1.0 ohms.

Adequate air intake of the RDA is also important. Most have adjustable air intake rings; if not the default air holes may need to be enlarged by drilling them out with a power drill. Adequate wicking (cotton, cellucotton or rayon, silica) is also important.

With a RDA, you sacrifice juice capacity for the vapor production and dense clouds. You need to add liquid frequently and likely will need to carry a juice bottle with you everywhere. These RDA's don't leak if you don't use too much e-liquid when you drip.

With a Kayfun-style RBA (Kayfun Lite, Russian, Fogger V4, etc), you get the convenience of tank capacity (3 - 4 ml liquid volume) and great flavor production, but sacrifice the superior vapor production of a dripper, generally speaking. These seem to work best with a 1.2 ohm to 2.0 ohm range. Going lower in resistance can melt the delrin insulators.

Magma rebuildable drip atomizer

Kayfun Lite Plus V2 rebuildable tank atomizer



I'm finding the following calculator to be my favorite: Coil Toy online calculator Type in all of the variables and you get a nice visual graphic of how the coil(s) should look when finished.

 

[Pedrobear]

Thank you everybody for the information!!