New Reuleaux RX200S

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ddirtyvapes

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I'm not sure if this is basically the 200s owner's thread or what but it does seem like that's what it's becoming. I don't mean to hijack but could anyone here help me with this?

In short, where is the amp cutoff for the RX200S with a very low resistance atomizer? (well, any resistance.... but less of a problem not supersubohming.) Has anyone been using .1-.14 builds and pushing them up? Where does it stop? The cuboid cuts off at 25A, which at .12ohms gives you..... 3V. I have no need to vape that low on a regulated mod usually, but I really prefer to get atomizers glowing on a VV/VW before going to the mech. Then I build that low, for my parallels. Also, some newer fancy builds that I genuinely enjoy using are hard to make NOT super low.

Anyway, sorry if this is the wrong place. I've just been trying to hard to find out with no luck.
 
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BillW50

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Are you confusing battery current with output current? With a mech mod, the battery current and the output current is indeed the same. But with a regulated mod, it is not. For example, a RX200/DNA200 has a max input current of 23A, yet it puts out 50A max. How?

Easy! The input side is at 11.1v. But we never put 11.1v on our coils, do we? No we use something much lower. And when you lower the output voltage, you increase the current output with regulation. The one thing that stays the same with all mods is the watts in is the same as watts out. Well minus regulator efficiency.
 
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impostor71

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Just adding in my observations.

With my Cleito tank, once fully seated, there is still a gap (maybe .5mm) between the tank and the rx200s. The tank sits at an slight angle and can be rocked back and forth. I think this is due to the Cleito's flat bottom while there's 2 half-circle ridges on the 200s. I'm going to pick up some mod saver spacers to stabilize the tank on the mod. I didn't have any problems with firing it though, so pin contact seems to be ok.

I'm also feeling how warm the mod gets with light vaping. The heat is most noticeable from the battery cover. I'm running in VW 41w, and using brand new Samsung 30Q batts.

Interestingly, my Cuboid Mini reads the .4ohms Cleito clapton coil as .45, the rx200s reads it as .4, and my wife's Pico reads it at .39.
 
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KenD

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I'm not sure if this is basically the 200s owner's thread or what but it does seem like that's what it's becoming. I don't mean to hijack but could anyone here help me with this?

In short, where is the amp cutoff for the RX200S with a very low resistance atomizer? (well, any resistance.... but less of a problem not supersubohming.) Has anyone been using .1-.14 builds and pushing them up? Where does it stop? The cuboid cuts off at 25A, which at .12ohms gives you..... 3V. I have no need to vape that low on a regulated mod usually, but I really prefer to get atomizers glowing on a VV/VW before going to the mech. Then I build that low, for my parallels. Also, some newer fancy builds that I genuinely enjoy using are hard to make NOT super low.

Anyway, sorry if this is the wrong place. I've just been trying to hard to find out with no luck.
Resistance doesn't factor into the amp draw on vw mods, only watts and battery charge level do. With a three-battery mod and 20 amp batteries you can go to about 180w with any resistance you choose (as long as it's within the specs of the device).

Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk
 

ddirtyvapes

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No, I know resistance doesn't factor in @KenD. Or else, it shouldn't. It DOES matter on the cuboid, because of that cutoff. I understand that's not how it works, but that's what Joyetech did. So I'm just making sure the 200S doesn't do the same thing (i.e. cutoff ridiculously low), especially being that the screens look so similar, and potentially the boards are similar as well.

As I mentioned in my last post, in the case of the Cuboid it will limit a .12 build to 3V max in power mode. So, in that case it does matter, only insofar as Joyetech may not fully understand how their own mod works. Hopefully it is a non-issue with the 200S.

@BillW50 as above, I'm not confused with how it works. I'm confused why Joyetech would have put that cutoff on the Cuboid-- I don't think there is any logical reason-- and want to make sure that Wismec hasn't done something similarly stupid on the updated version of the RX... especially knowing there is some kind of connection between the companies.
 
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Jamie Johnson

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Just adding in my observations.

With my Cleito tank, once fully seated, there is still a gap (maybe .5mm) between the tank and the rx200s. The tank sits at an slight angle and can be rocked back and forth. I think this is due to the Cleito's flat bottom while there's 2 half-circle ridges on the 200s. I'm going to pick up some mod saver spacers to stabilize the tank on the mod. I didn't have any problems with firing it though, so pin contact seems to be ok.

I'm also feeling how warm the mod gets with light vaping. The heat is most noticeable from the battery cover. I'm running in VW 41w, and using brand new Samsung 30Q batts.

Interestingly, my Cuboid Mini reads the .4ohms Cleito clapton coil as .45, the rx200s reads it as .4, and my wife's Pico reads it at .39.

Strange...all of my tanks fit flush with no cranking whatsoever. Cleito, tfv4, kanger subtank mini, and avacado 24.
20160617_143610.jpg
20160617_143610.jpg
 

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juicynoos

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Hmmm, will see about heat issue once I get mine!

Has anyone else noticed their RX200s getting VERY warm during light vaping?

Has anyone else noticed their RX200s getting VERY warm during light vaping? Not the batteries, but the front near the screen, and the top. Even the base of my Nautilus tank is quite warm to the touch when I took it off the mod.

Only vaping a 1.8ohm coil at 11 watts, using Sony VTC5 batteries

Mine gets warm too. It seems like I can't reproduce it consistantly. When I first got it, it seemed like it got warmer and may have mellowed out a little.

I'm also feeling how warm the mod gets with light vaping

Received mine 2 days ago....

Something is going on here with the 510 connector in relation to the board for sure. It is not normal that heat from the atty should heat the screen in this way and further more, if this is not heat transfer...then it is a more serious issue with the board itself.

Has anyone opened a ticket or looked into this further? @Shawn Hoefer
 

Shawn Hoefer

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Received mine 2 days ago....

Something is going on here with the 510 connector in relation to the board for sure. It is not normal that heat from the atty should heat the screen in this way and further more, if this is not heat transfer...then it is a more serious issue with the board itself.

Has anyone opened a ticket or looked into this further? @Shawn Hoefer
I don't think it's atty heat transfer. I thinks it's just normal heat from the chip and that ginormous screen. It does become warm, but not hot... I say let it be unless it starts giving overheat warnings.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
 
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juicynoos

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On the rx, with power off, you could check board/mod temp. by pushing the fire button 10 times-correct? I haven't tried that yet.
Interestingly, atty's with long 510 pins like Limitless rdta and the Merlin seem to be what is causing this heat to the screen.
I was just experimenting with some older toppers I haven't used in a while such as Atlantis etc, vaping at the same exact 30 watts...and no heat or even warmth on the screen at all!!!! Definitely this 510 related.
 

BillW50

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There is nothing wrog with it. Every mod i've oned got even more hot throughout my vape sessions. The RX200 S is one of my favorite mods I own. I like the screen better then the DNA's scren
I see 200 hits just within ECF alone: RX200 hot. And has anybody ever had Joyetech/Wismec ever honor their warranty?
 
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PhilBrown123

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I don't think it's atty heat transfer. I thinks it's just normal heat from the chip and that ginormous screen. It does become warm, but not hot... I say let it be unless it starts giving overheat warnings.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
^^this because mine gets hot and I mean not warm hot the board will read 59-65 about 20 degrees hotter then the 200 regular does. also I have taken the cuboid apart (also ginormous screen) and they have hughe heatsinks in there where the 200s does not. as I have stated in the past in my opinion the 200s is not all that and a bag of chips, infact I wish wismec had done more then just slap a new screen on it. they should have added better heat dissipation and a better 510 ( and please dont start with the "its an updated 510" jaybo himself said on vaping 360 it was only the screen that was updated and the internals were all the same). but I will state that the screen is the bees knees just wish it didnt get so hot, especiallt because the wires for balance charging are super smal and wouldnt take much to heat and melt etc. personally I am working on adding graphic card memory heatsinks to the chip in my 200s with thermal tape they are just fractionally to big so I will be grinding them and trying to get them in there that said, one should not have to do that. on the last 88 degree day my 200s got so hot I had to put it up after only 5 vapes with a .66ohm coil
 

PhilBrown123

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the 213 is gorgeous and awesome screen djlsb vapes did a review showing it only hits 155w but if your a 50w vaper that doesnt really matter. personally I only vape 50w tops im struggling with my review of the koopor 300w because of this, but for me looks matter the most. I purchased a lost vape triade dna200 for that very reason (well my wife bought it for me for fathers day)
 

KenD

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the 213 is gorgeous and awesome screen djlsb vapes did a review showing it only hits 155w but if your a 50w vaper that doesnt really matter. personally I only vape 50w tops im struggling with my review of the koopor 300w because of this, but for me looks matter the most. I purchased a lost vape triade dna200 for that very reason (well my wife bought it for me for fathers day)
In addition the tc doesn't work on it, and Sigelei tried to threaten Daniel into silence. No support for the device nor the company from me.

Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk
 
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