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h00ligan

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Did you get the ivogo st 3f?

For the positive pin replacement. Ik trying to figure out exactly what needs to be changed. Mine seems reliable with temp control.

Wishing I'd done a bit more research though as the flavor seems amiss.

Any idea about coatings for either unit on the decks?

Flavor seems quite muted. Which makes me a bit concerned to know what we may be inhaling.

A quick glance tells me others feel the taste is not there with these things.

I need to
Figure out where the positive contact is and where I can get one screw you listed to replace it. I haven't really done much with mine
 

TheBloke

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Did you get the ivogo st 3f?

For the positive pin replacement. Ik trying to figure out exactly what needs to be changed. Mine seems reliable with temp control.

Wishing I'd done a bit more research though as the flavor seems amiss.

Any idea about coatings for either unit on the decks?

From 3FVape I bought two Squape Rs' - the 5-deck Ivogo, and the 1-deck SXK. I also bought two of their cloned individual decks (B and D) to use on my SXK.

However I now see they list three:
  1. This is the $33 5-deck Ivogo that I bought; includes bell cap
  2. This is the $22 1-deck SXK that I bought (actually I got the one with extra red tank)
  3. This is a new listed one, $23 with only one deck and no bell cap
    1. I think it is the Ivogo in a single deck package, with no bell cap - some of the specs match the Ivogo, eg saying specifically "316 Stainless Steel"

If your resistance is stable with the Ivogo then that's fine - maybe I just got a bad pin that's too short? For me it was clearly way out, like 0.3Ω higher than it should be, and varying.

Here's my long post describing the fix I made to the Ivogo positive pin: New Squape Rs 1:1 clone by SXK

That post can be summed up quickly: Replace the positive pin with an M3 x 16mm countersunk head screw, preferably brass, using a suitable insulator pulled under the head, and screw it down tight checking carefully for shorts. Right now I am just using silicone insulator cut from some 14G copper wire, but better insulators are available.

Regarding coating on the deck and chimney - well, as expected it doesn't conduct. That's all I know really. What were you wanting to know about it? I don't know how to tell what material it is, but it does the job it's meant to (being non-conductive)

As for flavour, neither my SXK or Ivogo have wonderful flavour. But it's OK, I can taste the juice and it tastes pleasant.
 
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h00ligan

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Thanks for your help.

Well aside from being non conductive I'd like to know if the heat causes it to release anything into the vapor. I suppose we could infer that based on the longest period someone has used the same deck and whether he costing thinned or wore.

Where would I buy the screw that should replace the positive? And a suitable insulator.

I can't do any cutting right now I'd guess. Depends what has to be done. I'm having some small motor function issues that's will stick around until the minor brain surgery. If it's not too fiddly I can do it. I mean I can make coils etc. it's really a strength and motor coordination.

I'll go look at your post. And thanks again for your help

I'm genuinely curious how much better the authentic tastes. People have sworn it's the best taste since the invention of vaping.

I just bought a taifun gt 2 (authentic) from another member here and that flavor blows the squape clone off the planet. However given the cost of the clone I'm not opposed to mucking about with it if it can substantially improve the experience.

I find myself using the w deck mostly with standard nickel / ss/ ti wire

Come to think of it I had some crazy resistance reporting issues when I did actually build it tonight. And it paired shirted then bounced around. However after s few burns it leveled it so I assumed I'd had an issue with the coil
 
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h00ligan

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Looking on eBay we just don't have he screws needed. Shipping from home is $16

Maybe I'll try to have my nephew bring them over when he visits

Edit

Right I didn't realize it was that simple. I need to find the right screw however and that's proving difficult. Clearly I'm not going to pay $20 for a few screws. Apparently we never need screw choices in the USA or I have no idea there's some great screw stire I've never heard of.

I wonder if there's an authentic oarts kit with a replacement positive screw. I believe an authentic oarts kit may be the way to go. Or a parts kit for he sxr version.
 
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TheBloke

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You won't need to cut anything. I did at first because I didn't have the right screws but since then I've replaced with a single screw that goes right in.

This is the search time I would use on eBay to find M3 x 16mm.

I guess machine screws (eg M3) are not common in the US, because 99% of the listings are China or the UK! But there are a couple of US sellers in there.

I got brass ones, but trying to search for brass brings it down to three results! So go stainless - it'll still work, in fact I haven't even put in my brass screw yet.

Alternatively you could try ringing around some DIY / hardware stores, maybe some might carry some. I guess the issue is that you guys do everything in inches and M screws are metric. But surely someone must carry them.

If you continue have trouble getting the right screws locally, send me a PM and I can drop a few in the mail to you.
 

TheBloke

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Yeah I'd be interested to hear about the taste of the authentic as well. I can't remember who here has one? Well I know @TheotherSteveS does, but he's on vacation a couple of weeks.

I can't see how the authentic could be so much better than the clone - the dimensions of the clones seem close enough, and what is there to affect flavour besides the dimensions of the deck/chimney etc? But maybe there's more to it than that.

Of course, anyone who paid $150 for an authentic has a hard bias to overcome; they're much more likely to say it tastes good than someone who paid $25 for a clone :)

I don't have any authentic Taifuns but I have one clone and am getting another couple in a few days. I will try doing a comparison using the same juice.

I definitely don't think my flavour is bad or weak. Just not quite as vivid as some of my other tanks, such as my Aqua v2 clones and Aqua SE authentic (Aquas are renowned for amazing flavour.)

My biggest annoyance with the Squape is filling. It's impossible to use the metal tanks with 70+% VG, and with 60% it only just works. I can't fill it full, only about half full. 50% is OK. And the bell cap on the Ivogo has no problem, so I'm using that now on my Ivogo - even though it looks nasty!

Anyway overall I am not sorry that I bought the two clones, but nor am I super glad. They are neither my best nor worst atomizers. What is a bit disappointing that they do not have anything special to excite me. I thought the eMetal/non-conductive deck would be excellent for coiling, and I thought changeable decks would be interesting. But so far I have found neither makes any difference at all. I am not finding it much easier to coil with non-conductive deck. And I haven't yet found a great benefit to swapping out a different deck. So their key benefit has not yet been a benefit to me. They do look good, at least with the proper tank they do.

Maybe this will change over time. For example I soon plan to try stainless steel mesh wick, and if I can swap out the deck of the Rs to enable use of mesh, then that will suddenly make it more interesting and prove the value of the changeable decks.

In the meantime I find them perfectly adequate: average flavour, average build-ability, average capacity. Worth having, but not yet exciting.
 
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Waddle

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Thanks for your help.

Well aside from being non conductive I'd like to know if the heat causes it to release anything into the vapor. I suppose we could infer that based on the longest period someone has used the same deck and whether he costing thinned or wore.

Where would I buy the screw that should replace the positive? And a suitable insulator.

I can't do any cutting right now I'd guess. Depends what has to be done. I'm having some small motor function issues that's will stick around until the minor brain surgery. If it's not too fiddly I can do it. I mean I can make coils etc. it's really a strength and motor coordination.

I'll go look at your post. And thanks again for your help

I'm genuinely curious how much better the authentic tastes. People have sworn it's the best taste since the invention of vaping.

I just bought a taifun gt 2 (authentic) from another member here and that flavor blows the squape clone off the planet. However given the cost of the clone I'm not opposed to mucking about with it if it can substantially improve the experience.

I find myself using the w deck mostly with standard nickel / ss/ ti wire

Come to think of it I had some crazy resistance reporting issues when I did actually build it tonight. And it paired shirted then bounced around. However after s few burns it leveled it so I assumed I'd had an issue with the coil


On some of the initial Squape clones there was some peeling of the ematal coating. Not sure there is much of a difference between the two coatings other than the authentic coating is a proprietary patented coating. But my Squape Rs clone has not shown any wear as of yet. It's about a month old with fairly infrequent use. Time will tell. If it starts to chip or wear then it will be gone obviously.

I totally agree with you that the Taifun GT II blows the Squape away for flavor. However , I have wicked the Squape Rs with Ni200 and SS [HASHTAG]#500[/HASHTAG] mesh (W deck) and it has improved the flavor somewhat. I don't know what it is about the Squape Rs but I just don't care for it that much. But I bought it because it's small and I like to be stealth at work.

I had some resistance jumping with my Rs clone because the ematal coating had been sprayed onto the 510 deck threads. I replaced the deck and all is fine now.
 
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h00ligan

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Yeah I'd be interested to hear about the taste of the authentic as well. I can't remember who here has one? Well I know @TheotherSteveS does, but he's on vacation a couple of weeks.

I can't see how the authentic could be so much better than the clone - the dimensions of the clones seem close enough, and what is there to affect flavour besides the dimensions of the deck/chimney etc? But maybe there's more to it than that.

Of course, anyone who paid $150 for an authentic has a hard bias to overcome; they're much more likely to say it tastes good than someone who paid $25 for a clone :)

I don't have any authentic Taifuns but I have one clone and am getting another couple in a few days. I will try doing a comparison using the same juice.

I definitely don't think my flavour is bad or weak. Just not quite as vivid as some of my other tanks, such as my Aqua v2 clones and Aqua SE authentic (Aquas are renowned for amazing flavour.)

My biggest annoyance with the Squape is filling. It's impossible to use the metal tanks with 70+% VG, and with 60% it only just works. I can't fill it full, only about half full. 50% is OK. And the bell cap on the Ivogo has no problem, so I'm using that now on my Ivogo - even though it looks nasty!

Anyway overall I am not sorry that I bought the two clones, but nor am I super glad. They are neither my best nor worst atomizers. What is a bit disappointing that they do not have anything special to excite me. I thought the eMetal/non-conductive deck would be excellent for coiling, and I thought changeable decks would be interesting. But so far I have found neither makes any difference at all. I am not finding it much easier to coil with non-conductive deck. And I haven't yet found a great benefit to swapping out a different deck. So their key benefit has not yet been a benefit to me. They do look good, at least with the proper tank they do.

Maybe this will change over time. For example I soon plan to try stainless steel mesh wick, and if I can swap out the deck of the Rs to enable use of mesh, then that will suddenly make it more interesting and prove the value of the changeable decks.

In the meantime I find them perfectly adequate: average flavour, average build-ability, average capacity. Worth having, but not yet exciting.

Spot on with the authentic vs clone thing. It's a hard bais to get past

Here's what I can tel you about the taifun authentic vs the clones

I couldn't find a gt2 clone that wasn't the stupid -s variant and was high quality. The -s base is a pile of rubbish.

The Hotcig parts are all but indistinguishable from the authentic parts. The actual tanks are the same Width and dimension. The one distinguishable factor is the amount of threading and the way it all fits together. The authentic fits extremely tightly. Almost too tight

the -s base fails because they split it for cleaning. In doing his they fix the positive post through a hole into the bottom. Iirc the original is one piece so it works well with temp control. The glass tank sleeves are literally identical. Same thickness everything.

For what I see comparing the clones to my authentic one could easily spend half the price on just the base and oring/tuning kit and buy the other parts from the clone makers. The base is the main difference.

Flavor is identical. I trust the original won't rust. The Hotcig clone I believe is 304.

The parts aside from the base weigh the exact same amount.

The flavor is identical as far as I can tell. But working wih the clone was a spin in the ....

So the thing is with the infinite kayfun 4 clone. Same thing. I'd have a hard time buying an authentic kayfun 4 at this juncture. I had a 1:1 clone right after the 4 came out. Then it was seemingly banned from places and it took month and months to get another one made that well. Makes me Wonder if someone liberated from the actual factory and sold as a clone

I often consider that the made in xxx countries label doesn't mean they aren't coming from a factory in China. And if that's happening it's extremely likely there are authentic a sold as clones.

Made in China assembled in Germany. Made in Germany sourced In china. Etc etc

But then you get into things like the squape. Someone doing more than machined parts. With more investment in machines to coat and research of the process / prototyping. Ematal may be a gimmick name but it is a process with slightly more to it than standard machining.

I think the kayfun 4 was cloned before it shipped when they prototyped it


Outside of tiny boutiques. High end atomizers have to be dealing with the east for some stuff.

I won't expect to see mark bugs atomizer clones in fasttech.

As to the benefits of the squape.

I'm having a hard time finding the right wicking for it. Half the time it works and the other half it never wicks properly. I've tried every recommended build and the only consistent one is the open base that's built like a kayfun. And then it tastes pretty much like a kayfun.

I also find the squape not ideal with the w deck etc for spaced coils.

If I was doing it again I would have bought an erlprinz instead of a squape clone. It is possible my weird wicking is actually bouncing resistance issues. They present similarly with temp control. I'll check my build next time it happens.

If this is even 75% of the performance of the authentic I'd have been absolutely shattered if I paid retail for the authentic with the one deck.

For the record I have the five deck ivogo from 3f

Do you feel that since you bought two maybe you should have just bought the original? I guess all in it's still 1/3 the price





-*Plese excuz any iPone-tyos
 
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raylee

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I have been using nickel on both my Squape R & Rs clones and authentic and has not had Ohm jump on either. The worst Ohm jumping problem I have is with KF4 authentic. I think it is due to spring setup. ti & ni IS VERY SENSITIVE TO ANY CONTACT CHANGES. Do not buy any RBA without solid +ve contacts. If a spring is use as contact, then you will have more problems. I am still waiting for for Rs 316 from 3Fvape. Tracking shows that it was posted on 8th Aug and till today it shows it is still in China. The worst is from Gearbest, ordered on 27th July, it shows in stock, than when I open a ticket, they reply no stock. Gave an ETA, than change a week later. Never buy from Gearbest, always empty promises. They offered to give me discount codes and I told them to SI. Until today still not shipped.
 

cindycated

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Did you get the ivogo st 3f?

For the positive pin replacement. Ik trying to figure out exactly what needs to be changed. Mine seems reliable with temp control.

Wishing I'd done a bit more research though as the flavor seems amiss.

Any idea about coatings for either unit on the decks?

Flavor seems quite muted. Which makes me a bit concerned to know what we may be inhaling.

A quick glance tells me others feel the taste is not there with these things.

I need to
Figure out where the positive contact is and where I can get one screw you listed to replace it. I haven't really done much with mine
When flavor is muted for me, it's usually because the tails are too thick. You could try thinning them with a pin to see if that helps.
I usually wick really tight at the coil, then thin the tails down slightly and trim flush with the deck.
 
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cindycated

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You won't need to cut anything. I did at first because I didn't have the right screws but since then I've replaced with a single screw that goes right in.

This is the search time I would use on eBay to find M3 x 16mm.

I guess machine screws (eg M3) are not common in the US, because 99% of the listings are China or the UK! But there are a couple of US sellers in there.

I got brass ones, but trying to search for brass brings it down to three results! So go stainless - it'll still work, in fact I haven't even put in my brass screw yet.

Alternatively you could try ringing around some DIY / hardware stores, maybe some might carry some. I guess the issue is that you guys do everything in inches and M screws are metric. But surely someone must carry them.

If you continue have trouble getting the right screws locally, send me a PM and I can drop a few in the mail to you.
When I was playing around with the pin on my SQR, I opted not to go with brass, and I can't remember why, but I think it might have had something to do with brass touching aluminum... again, I don't remember if that's bad or not, but might wanna do a little googling on that.
 
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h00ligan

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When flavor is muted for me, it's usually because the tails are too thick. You could try thinning them with a pin to see if that helps.
I usually wick really tight at the coil, then thin the tails down slightly and trim flush with the deck.
My tails are thinned. Nothing the squape offers comes close to the taifun or kayfun clone for me.

As to the authentic kayfun issue mentioned above.
Mi assume you have he good spring? I found how I assemble it makes all the difference. Specifically screwing the 510 in before assembling the base rather thanks a more final step. Also if the collector fills with juice it doesn't work well at all.

I can't imagine the clone has better connectivity than the authentic.

I used the authentic parts kit to replace the center pin with a better steel and the gold spring.

Doesn't blink an eye now unless it's really polluted.

I was going to try and find a used kf4 in good shape but this clone is working so well it's hard to justify. If I could find one like new at the rift price bid jump on it I guess.

The squape. I don't know what to do at this point. I've tried every kind of cotton wicking. Thinning fluffing. Cutting at an angle. Short tails. Long tails.

I think half my problem judging bu this morning is resistance bouncing. I need to connect it to my DNA 200 and monitor it through the computer.

I'll try anything to see if it can be made to taste good.

One last thing. Man this tank gets hot fast. All of it. Burning hot. No matter the coil. Anyone else notice that's


-*Plese excuz any iPone-tyos
 

nelsonm64

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I've found with the squapes the flavor is best with the "B" deck. the others are kinda poor when it comes to flavor. I vape my chocolate cappuccino in my sqaupe now because the flavor is amazing and this juice is real picky on which tanks it likes ;) win, win :)
 

sahilm

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Yeah I'd be interested to hear about the taste of the authentic as well. I can't remember who here has one? Well I know @TheotherSteveS does, but he's on vacation a couple of weeks.

Dear Bloke sir , a very good day to you and i hope that you are well .
I just ordered an original with the W , B & D deck from cloud9 today .
i should have it by next week sometime .
I will surely let you know how it pans out on the flavor front .
my best wishes to everyone .
regards
Sahil
 

sahilm

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Dear Bloke sir , a very good day to you and i hope that you are well .
I just ordered an original with the W , B & D deck from cloud9 today .
i should have it by next week sometime .
I will surely let you know how it pans out on the flavor front .
my best wishes to everyone .
regards
Sahil

### guess i dont know how to do the " copy a certain portion of an earlier message to reply too ... sorry :p
 
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TheBloke

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Wow @sahilm so you decided the clones were too bad for you? :) Well I hope you enjoy your authentic, of course you can be sure not to get any of the problems we have with the clones!

@cindycated ohh interesting. Yes a quick Google suggests that in marine/water environments, brass and aluminium should not be in contact because "they are too far apart on the galvanic scale" and it is a recipe for corrosion. Here's one link I read: Keep aluminum and brass separated in the marine environment.

But they're talking about boats, seawater. Surely this can't apply with anything like the same effect to vaping? It will get a little wet/moist now and then. But it's not like it's submerged in salty water 24/7.

Thanks a lot for the heads up, I am definitely going to keep an eye on it.

But I am not going to change it just yet: last night I did some tests with my 4-wire ohm reader, and was amazed at the difference I found.

I had my bag of M3x16mm brass screws and was wondering if I should bother swapping out the M3x16 stainless I already had in. I hadn't read your post at that time. So I got out my 4-wire micro ohm reader and measured: a) the brass M3, b) the stainless M3, c) the original stainless Ivogo centre pin.

I was amazed at what I found. The resistance down the stainless M3 and the stainless centre pin were about the same, 0.0025Ω. This compared to the brass M3 at 0.0002Ω. So the stainless pins were more than 10 times higher resistance than the brass!

To be sure, 0.0025Ω is still small beans in terms of TC inaccuracy. But given there will be static resistance at several other places in the atomizer, removing 0.002Ω easily is generally a good thing. And I was just generally very surprised to find more than a 10x factor of difference.

So I now have brass M3x16 in both the SXK and Ivogo. I measured my current SXK build on the SX Mini M, using Set Resistance, and it was 0.421Ω with the stock screw and 0.418Ω after. 0.003Ω difference, slightly more even than I measured on the screw alone (though there may be some rounding.) Again, far from the end of the world but good to get rid of where it's possible.

But it's not worth getting corrosion for, so now I have read your post I will definitely keep an eye out for that and if there's any sign of it I will back it out. I don't know to what extent juice/condensation leaks down to that bottom deck - that will be a key factor I guess.
 

TheBloke

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Speaking of clone issues.. though I can't really blame this one on the clone.

Note to self: tank cracking is not just something that happens to other people. Especially when one has just switched, for the first time, to a very heavy aniseed liquid!



So that's the end of the Ivogo bell cap! Oh well, could have been worse - I'm glad it was a spare bell cap rather than one of my tanks for which I only have a plastic tank. I have been far too complacent on tank cracking, thinking I must never use juices that caused it.
 
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