It was overfeeding. Taifun GT was sometimes leaking after i carry it in my pocket for sometime. I think because the mesh is staying horizontial in Taifun, it was overfeeding. 200 mesh may be better in genesis style atomizers for thick juices but in atomizers with horizontial mesh setups like Taifun GT, 400 mesh would perform better IMHO.
New Squape Rs 1:1 clone by SXK
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OK thanks. So this matches roxy's finding of lower mesh number = feeds more. Except you found 400 works with 90% VG and she found she needs down to 110 for such high VG and that 400 does not wick high VG so well.
But then there is this difference of horizontal/vertical. What I find confusing is surely horizontal should feed less? I mean, vertical has gravity to help it, horizontal does not. But that is not your finding.
Oh well, I am going to get 200, 300 and 400 and see what works with the Horizon. It's not too expensive.
But then there is this difference of horizontal/vertical. What I find confusing is surely horizontal should feed less? I mean, vertical has gravity to help it, horizontal does not. But that is not your finding.
Oh well, I am going to get 200, 300 and 400 and see what works with the Horizon. It's not too expensive.
Ahh OK thanks for clarifying.
Yes, Roxy and I are talking about mesh as a feeder wick - passing juice from a tank to the main (cotton) wick. Like you see in this photo of another Vape4Me atomizer, the Blackwood:
(In this photo it is using a stainless steel twisted wire that is supplied with the atomizer, but the principle is the same)
Yes, Roxy and I are talking about mesh as a feeder wick - passing juice from a tank to the main (cotton) wick. Like you see in this photo of another Vape4Me atomizer, the Blackwood:
(In this photo it is using a stainless steel twisted wire that is supplied with the atomizer, but the principle is the same)
But now I am intrigued by your use of stainless steel mesh as a main wick 
What is the benefit of this versus just a normal cotton wick? I have a Taifun GT2 (clone) and I just use a normal cotton wick (well Rayon, but same thing.)
And does it not short out the coil? Or is it covered in cotton or something? In the photo it looks very black, I can't see if it is just mesh or if there is some covering to it.
What is the benefit of this versus just a normal cotton wick? I have a Taifun GT2 (clone) and I just use a normal cotton wick (well Rayon, but same thing.)And does it not short out the coil? Or is it covered in cotton or something? In the photo it looks very black, I can't see if it is just mesh or if there is some covering to it.
I think i misunderstood the situation. As i understood Roxy uses mesh in FeV and Taifun GS2 for feeding the cotton through the tank section. What i explained was using the mesh as a wicking material in the picture below. The usage may be different for both of the situations.
I'm curious as to whether you build your coil first and then insert your mesh. I have been having reasonable success using Ni200 with [HASHTAG]#500[/HASHTAG] mesh this way with my Taifun GT II. The nice thing with Ni200 you don't have to oxidize the mesh. But since Ni200 is so soft and low resistance I haven’t tried wrapping directly onto the mesh wick.
This is my Taifun GT2 - a Titanium coil with standard Rayon wicking
I'd love to know what benefits there might be to using mesh instead, especially as I'll soon have some for the Horizon!
I'd love to know what benefits there might be to using mesh instead, especially as I'll soon have some for the Horizon!
I used to like mesh in my coils but i am not using them so often because of some health arguements about the oxidation of the mesh. I am back to Rayon and Fiber Freaks. I really liked the flavor of the liquid with mesh. The coil does not gunk fast and dry burn is super easy. You can dry burn the wire while the mesh is in it. I had recorded a video for my country's forum. Sorry it is not English but you may have a look at the process of the mesh build in a Taifun GT (Similar to Taifun GT2)
Mesh has an extremely clean, flavorful vape, much less wick deterioration, excellent wick longevity.
The Horizon will be different since it only uses mesh as feeder wicks.
I use kanthal and wrap it directly on the mesh. Have never tried it with Nİ or Titanium. How is it no oxidation with Ni? No shorts?
This is the advantage of using Ni200 with mesh. No oxidation necessary. No shorts since the Ni200 is low resistance.
DNA40 Ni200 Nickel Build Full SS Mesh Wick | E-Cigarette Forum
Thanks a lot guys, this is very interesting. I am getting the mesh anyway for the Horizon so I will definitely try it also for some normal wicks. I love to always try any new/different vaping thing
PS. The reason no oxidisation is necessary with ni200 is that its resistance is so low that it is always the path of least resistance - the electricity will always pass only through the ni200 as the stainless steel wire is higher resistance.
This could apply perhaps to other wires, like maybe Dicodes Resistherm / Alloy 120, which are also low resistance, lower than Titanium and much lower than Kanthal (but not as low as Ni200.) It would be worth checking.
PS. The reason no oxidisation is necessary with ni200 is that its resistance is so low that it is always the path of least resistance - the electricity will always pass only through the ni200 as the stainless steel wire is higher resistance.
This could apply perhaps to other wires, like maybe Dicodes Resistherm / Alloy 120, which are also low resistance, lower than Titanium and much lower than Kanthal (but not as low as Ni200.) It would be worth checking.
In fact I would have thought you could also use stainless steel mesh with Titanium without oxidisation. My Titanium coils have lower resistance than my SS317 coils - eg 8 wraps 26G Titanium is 0.40 - 0.45Ω, where Stainless Steel will be 0.50 - 0.55Ω
And the wire of the stainless steel mesh is very very thin, so making it much higher resistance. 48 AWG for example.
And the wire of the stainless steel mesh is very very thin, so making it much higher resistance. 48 AWG for example.
I wonder if this argument is valid. If it is, I am in trouble, because I am now regularly vaping stainless steel coils
And in fact so are many people - the Aspire Triton uses SS coils.I am intrigued to try this SS mesh wick. I like Rayon a lot, but I can see many advantages to mesh - as you guys mention. I just never even thought of it before.
It means I could dry burn my wick to clean it! That's so awesome
I wonder if this argument is valid. If it is, I am in trouble, because I am now regularly vaping stainless steel coils
I am intrigued to try this SS mesh wick. I like Rayon a lot, but I can see many advantages to mesh - as you guys mention. I just never even thought of it before.
It means I could dry burn my wick to clean it! That's so awesome
Genesis users have always sworn by mesh. Also many use it in RDAs. However I'm not so sure there are that many RTA atomizers where mesh can be utilized otherwise. The Taifun is one I know of,but I think it would be difficult to use mesh in the Squape. It has also been used in Pinoy style atomizers like the Blackwood, the FEV, the Taifun GS, and the Horizon . Sorry to go off topic here since this is a Squape thread.
Yes you are right - I was just thinking, what RTAs would mesh actually fit in? Many/most have the deck above the juice channels, so it needs a wick that can bend. You could use mesh, but then you would need to put some cotton in each end to go from horizontal to vertical. There could still be some small advantage in that - to change juice, dry burn the wick in the coil and then just replace the end pieces of cotton. But it is not as good as just having a single wick, and maybe not worth the effort (depends how long it takes to make/re-make those cotton end pieces.)
Actually the Squape is one example that might work. Here is my SXK Squape Rs clone deck:
So it is pretty much horizontal - and I think it would work with mesh. With cotton, I do put the cotton down the juice channels a bit. But I think that might not be 100% necessary.
And the advantage of the Squape is it has multiple decks. The B deck for example is just a big open chamber, with four holes in it. That could also maybe use mesh - at least if it can be curved very slightly. I will experiment.
Don't worry about the thread, we have been OT for a couple of pages
I will post some more Squape stuff shortly hopefully Yes you are right - I was just thinking, what RTAs would mesh actually fit in? Many/most have the deck above the juice channels, so it needs a wick that can bend. You could use mesh, but then you would need to put some cotton in each end to go from horizontal to vertical. There could still be some small advantage in that - to change juice, dry burn the wick in the coil and then just replace the end pieces of cotton. But it is not as good as just having a single wick, and maybe not worth the effort (depends how long it takes to make/re-make those cotton end pieces.)
Actually the Squape is one example that might work. Here is my SXK Squape Rs clone deck:
So it is pretty much horizontal - and I think it would work with mesh.
Don't worry about the thread, we have been OT for a couple of pages
Right you are. I know people have used mesh wrapped around cotton in the Erlkonigins with success. It might work with a Squape the way you've indicated. The great thing about mesh is its wicking properties to feed a coil. In a Squape it would sort of be ...-backwards, but who knows until someone tries it. It might just improve the flavor on the Squape which honestly I find dreadfully bland.
Totally agree. I had an authentic Squape R which i did not like the flavor and sold. I ordered a Squape Rs clone a few days ago and willing to try mesh without oxidation with Ni200. I had no information about this no oxidation thing with Ni200 and am a little excited
Ni200 sucks - try the mesh with Titanium. If it works with Titanium then that will be exciting
Or I will try it soon - best case I will get my mesh on Tuesday.
I am not sure how to work out the resistance of the mesh. The mesh I am looking at says it uses 46 or 48G wire. But that cannot be the way to work out the resistance, as 46G Stainless Steel should have a resistance many times higher than Kanthal. So if that was the only factor, it would not need oxidising with Kanthal either.
Maybe because it has only small holes in it, and only some 30-40% of the mesh is open space, it is equivalent to a much thicker wire.
Or I will try it soon - best case I will get my mesh on Tuesday.
I am not sure how to work out the resistance of the mesh. The mesh I am looking at says it uses 46 or 48G wire. But that cannot be the way to work out the resistance, as 46G Stainless Steel should have a resistance many times higher than Kanthal. So if that was the only factor, it would not need oxidising with Kanthal either.
Maybe because it has only small holes in it, and only some 30-40% of the mesh is open space, it is equivalent to a much thicker wire.
I don't find the flavour of my two Squape Rs clones to be too bad. It is not the best I ever tasted, but it is OK.
Then again I am not a good judge of flavour - I have trouble getting good flavour in general. So perhaps you all are getting much better flavour to me and can tell smaller differences
Then again I am not a good judge of flavour - I have trouble getting good flavour in general. So perhaps you all are getting much better flavour to me and can tell smaller differences
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