New Squape Rs 1:1 clone by SXK

[TheBloke]

Silicone insulator cut from 14G wires, with an added 2mm x 1mm o-ring

It may not be the best long term solution but is working well for now - I might order some better plastic insulators, eg as used on the KF4.



(Note that is an earlier photo I took. In the final fix, I pulled that red insulation up further to ensure it covers as much as possible of the underside of the countersunk screw head. That can be enough for insulation just on its own, but the o-ring makes certain and I think also reduces the risk of the silicone compressing and moving, a risk that Cindy raised.)

I have been meaning to ask you - you've got the Ivogo, have you not had any problems with fluctuating or too-high resistance for TC? I am still not sure if this is a general problem with the Ivogo clones or just a defect in mine.

But yes, even if yours is stable I'd still recommend the brass M3 - with the only caveat being what @cindycated mentioned, we need to be vigilant checking for corrosion on the join of the brass with the aluminium lower deck. If that's not a problem the brass is definitely a winner.

I suppose copper might be even better, and avoid the corrosion risk as well? Although all the ones I can find are only copper plated on top of steel, and I don't know how that would compare resistance-wise. I can see one set of copper plated M3s on eBay so I might get some just to find out. They're from China though so will take 10 days or so to find out.

EDIT: In other sizes they have copped plated brass, which might be best of all worlds. But I can't find any m3x16 in that size Longest is M3 x 12. I'll get the copper-over-steel anyway, it'll be interesting just to see how they compare to stainless steel on its own. I suppose I could make a copper-over-brass M3 x 16 using one-and-a-bit of the M3 x 12 soldered together, but I don't think I'll bother for now Not to mention that they've got the wrong heads, not countersunk.

 

[nelsonm64]

that's looks great man! I think i'll try your method. now, to get some brass M3x16mm screws and ya know, I've never tried my squape rs in TC mode.... i'll have to give that a shot soon. thx for the reply and heads up I appreciate it!

 

[cindycated]

Wow @sahilm so you decided the clones were too bad for you? Well I hope you enjoy your authentic, of course you can be sure not to get any of the problems we have with the clones!

@cindycated ohh interesting. Yes a quick Google suggests that in marine/water environments, brass and aluminium should not be in contact because "they are too far apart on the galvanic scale" and it is a recipe for corrosion. Here's one link I read: Keep aluminum and brass separated in the marine environment.

But they're talking about boats, seawater. Surely this can't apply with anything like the same effect to vaping? It will get a little wet/moist now and then. But it's not like it's submerged in salty water 24/7.

Thanks a lot for the heads up, I am definitely going to keep an eye on it.

But I am not going to change it just yet: last night I did some tests with my 4-wire ohm reader, and was amazed at the difference I found.

I had my bag of M3x16mm brass screws and was wondering if I should bother swapping out the M3x16 stainless I already had in. I hadn't read your post at that time. So I got out my 4-wire micro ohm reader and measured: a) the brass M3, b) the stainless M3, c) the original stainless Ivogo centre pin.

I was amazed at what I found. The resistance down the stainless M3 and the stainless centre pin were about the same, 0.0025Ω. This compared to the brass M3 at 0.0002Ω. So the stainless pins were more than 10 times higher resistance than the brass!

To be sure, 0.0025Ω is still small beans in terms of TC inaccuracy. But given there will be static resistance at several other places in the atomizer, removing 0.002Ω easily is generally a good thing. And I was just generally very surprised to find more than a 10x factor of difference.

So I now have brass M3x16 in both the SXK and Ivogo. I measured my current SXK build on the SX Mini M, using Set Resistance, and it was 0.421Ω with the stock screw and 0.418Ω after. 0.003Ω difference, slightly more even than I measured on the screw alone (though there may be some rounding.) Again, far from the end of the world but good to get rid of where it's possible.

But it's not worth getting corrosion for, so now I have read your post I will definitely keep an eye out for that and if there's any sign of it I will back it out. I don't know to what extent juice/condensation leaks down to that bottom deck - that will be a key factor I guess.

juice gets in there, in between the base and bottom plate, but it takes MONTHS to accumulate. I finally had to take mine completely apart because enough of it had hardened and blocked the air hole. Now when I clean, I remove the AFC ring and ball bearing, put it in a covered container with warm water, and shake vigorously. Hopefully, that will keep that area clean, because removing the deck is a PITA on mine - it's on there really tight - like pulling teeth!

 

[cindycated]

Silicone insulator cut from 14G wires, with an added 2mm x 1mm o-ring

It may not be the best long term solution but is working well for now - I might order some better plastic insulators, eg as used on the KF4.



(Note that is an earlier photo I took. In the final fix, I pulled that red insulation up further to ensure it covers as much as possible of the underside of the countersunk screw head. That can be enough for insulation just on its own, but the o-ring makes certain and I think also reduces the risk of the silicone compressing and moving, a risk that Cindy raised.)

I have been meaning to ask you - you've got the Ivogo, have you not had any problems with fluctuating or too-high resistance for TC? I am still not sure if this is a general problem with the Ivogo clones or just a defect in mine.

But yes, even if yours is stable I'd still recommend the brass M3 - with the only caveat being what @cindycated mentioned, we need to be vigilant checking for corrosion on the join of the brass with the aluminium lower deck. If that's not a problem the brass is definitely a winner.

I suppose copper might be even better, and avoid the corrosion risk as well? Although all the ones I can find are only copper plated on top of steel, and I don't know how that would compare resistance-wise. I can see one set of copper plated M3s on eBay so I might get some just to find out. They're from China though so will take 10 days or so to find out.

EDIT: In other sizes they have copped plated brass, which might be best of all worlds. But I can't find any m3x16 in that size Longest is M3 x 12. I'll get the copper-over-steel anyway, it'll be interesting just to see how they compare to stainless steel on its own. I suppose I could make a copper-over-brass M3 x 16 using one-and-a-bit of the M3 x 12 soldered together, but I don't think I'll bother for now Not to mention that they've got the wrong heads, not countersunk.

Once you get the right insulator that will also act as a spacer (so that you can really tighten the screw with some torque), your fluctuation problems should go away - mine did - the only time it happens to me now is when I don't tighten my post screws enough, so I've been double-checking them with pliers. Just FYI, the 510 insulator for KF4 at FT is too big (it's for a different part of that atty I guess). I used the one for the older KF, from Kidney Puncher. Been meaning to order some 3/16" OD Teflon o-rings from Amazon too, as some of my mods are hybrids and they're really handy to have.

 

[TheBloke]

I don't have fluctuations any more since I put in the new screws Very consistent.

But yeah I will get some better insulators at some point for piece of mind, as the silicone isn't hugely strong and could maybe break down over time.

 

[h00ligan]

I figured out what the big issue is with the ivogo - at least mine. And it has nothing to do with the 510 pin per say

The base wth the positive post floats between two o rings in the outer casing. When the 510 is extended (and mine is the length that works to fit no problem) the whole base inside pushes up

This is particularly an issue when you don't have the tank on. And it upsets the balance of you don't push it down all the way before placing the tank. You wind up with a positive and negative post that don't seem the same size.

Is this the same design as the authentic. The base with two I rings that float the positive connection between them?

Both of those orings were shredded on line. One worse than the other (the bottom one)

with the whole deck moving and pushing away from the bottom of the tank its no wonder it cant hold a resistance

i really want to see a full dissembly of the authentic to the most pieces it can be broken down. It doesn't seem like this can be a real copy of the authentic because the I rings srebvery tight already. They can not be made bigger to hold it tighter or the deck won't sit on it properly

if i need to i will post pics fir a more clear explanation


-*Plese excuz any iPone-tyos

 

[TheBloke]

@h00ligan I had the exact same issue!

Go back a few pages and you will see I spent hours trying to set up the Ivogo. My lower base was all over the place, moving up and down as you said. And it was because one of the o-rings was shredded, just like yours.

OK so now we know this isn't a once-off, it's a regular problem on the Ivogo. Bad news.

The solution is obviously to replace the o-ring. However I found that in my spares pack I had two slightly different sizes - one of which was just too big to fit around the deck. I tried ages and ages and ages to get it in. Eventually I took the top o-ring and moved it down, thus proving that there was an o-ring size that would fit and the one I was using wasn't the right size. Shortly after I found the right size in my spares pack (well, I think so - I had both SXK and Ivogo spares together. I think it came from the Ivogo.)

Though you have both o-rings shredded? That really sucks.

Anyway all I can say is go to your spares pack and hopefully you will have 2 o-rings that fit. If you don't, you'll have to buy some (but check the spares packs for all your other atomizers first, the size is quite a common one - 17 or 18mm I think, quite common in RTAs).

I can do a full disassembly if you want, but I think you've seen it all by now. If you look back a few pages you'll see me doing a mostly full disassemble - the only part I didn't do was the lower deck you're looking at now, but of course you have now already seen that!

I don't know if the authentic is identical in all these components, but my guess is that it is - these claim to be 1:1 clones and although they have some defects, I expect they have cloned all the pieces the same way.

Anyway, once you get that lower deck in yes your resistance will be much better - though mine still wasn't completely fixed on the Ivogo until I got the longer positive pin, M3 x 16mm. But it did become usable, where out of the box it was completely unusable because of the lower deck. And you never know, maybe my positive pin issue isn't on all the Ivogos, so just lower deck might be enough for now.

 

[nelsonm64]

@ thebloke, as to your earlier question about TC mode. I just built my second Ivogo Rs with 28g tempered ni200 @ 0.18 *locked* and, put it on my Opus Max and the resistance hasn't moved at all! constant 0.18 Vapes great

 

[proteckt3d]

@ thebloke, as to your earlier question about TC mode. I just built my second Ivogo Rs with 28g tempered ni200 @ 0.18 *locked* and, put it on my Opus Max and the resistance hasn't moved at all! constant 0.18 Vapes great

This was exactly what I wanted to ask when I came here This is w/out Bloke's screw replacement?

 

[nelsonm64]

This was exactly what I wanted to ask when I came here This is w/out Bloke's screw replacement?

yes, this is with it the way it came... I do however have some M3x16mm stainless bolts coming

 

[degady64]

Is there anybody who know what manufacture did this clone? I see that is made from 316 stainless steel. I think is Ivogo
Squape Rs Style 316 Stainless Steel RTA Rebuildable E-cigarette Atomizer 3.8ml Capacity Support Air Flow - 510 Thread-30.69 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com

 

[nelsonm64]

Is there anybody who know what manufacture did this clone? I see that is made from 316 stainless steel. I think is Ivogo
Squape Rs Style 316 Stainless Steel RTA Rebuildable E-cigarette Atomizer 3.8ml Capacity Support Air Flow - 510 Thread-30.69 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com

my guess is Ivogo because, I think Ivogo is the only ones that include the bell tank.

 

[TheBloke]

yes, this is with it the way it came... I do however have some M3x16mm stainless bolts coming

Brass, brass, brass, brass, brass...

my guess is Ivogo because, I think Ivogo is the only ones that include the bell tank.

Yeah I would agree. Only difference is it lists as 3.8ml where on 3F they list it as 4.0ml (where they list the SXK as 3.8), but this does not mean much. It's gotta be the Ivogo.

 

[proteckt3d]

I read in a review that the Ivogo whistles. Did anyone had this happen on theirs?
Also do you think this insulator could be made to fit? they say it's 3.5mm in width

 

[hypocritelecteur]

A lot of atomizers whistle. You just need to take a drill bit that's slightly larger than each airhole on the AFC ring and drill around the edges just a tiny bit smoothing out the right angles with a slight bevel. Then clean passages thorough with a q-tip to remove and debris.
No more whistle!

 

[roxynoodle]

I read in a review that the Ivogo whistles. Did anyone had this happen on theirs?
Also do you think this insulator could be made to fit? they say it's 3.5mm in width

You want one with a 3mm hole so it holds the 510 steady. I bought the delrin blanks from FatDaddy. One had a 3mm hole. I cut a small piece, maybe 1/4" tall. The outside diameter was slightly too big. So I just sanded, tested fit, sanded, tested fit, etc until it was just right. Problem solved.

 

[cindycated]

I read in a review that the Ivogo whistles. Did anyone had this happen on theirs?
Also do you think this insulator could be made to fit? they say it's 3.5mm in width

Those are too big to fit into the 510 (I guess they go somewhere else in the atty - I bought some of those thinking they'd fit, but nope). The one I used was the older Kayfun positive post insulator which is usually out of stock at Kidney Puncher. You could buy a set of KF replacement parts from Lightning Vapes though, and just use that one part.

 

[TheBloke]

Oh whoops, so looks like I got the wrong ones too. I recently bought a couple of pack of KF4 spares from FT with insulators:

$3.56 Spare Parts Kit for Kayfun V4 RTA Atomizers (3-Pack) 3-pack at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
$2.23 Replacement Center Post Insulator for Kayfun V4 (5-Pack) 5-pack - POM at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

The second of which is identical to the one the OP posted.

So is it only KF3 or earlier that has the right sized insulator?

As for whistling, both my Ivogo and SXK do a bit. Depends on the airflow. I tend to use the third hole, and it's not too bad but is definitely noisier than many other attys.

 

[proteckt3d]

I think they are ID 3.5mm Bloke, the ones we are looking at and fit the KF4 center post. Definitely too big. What Cindy and Roxy suggested should work. They have a spare parts kit on FT too

 

[sahilm]

Good Day to all .
Squape _Rs from cloud 9 has arrived , am using the "B" deck with twisted nickel on my vs dna 40 .
lovely vape , no problems of fluctuations or any leaking . .
yet to try dual coils and a mesh with nickel in the "W" deck .
rest all is good and i really cant complain about anything .

vape the squape
best wishes and warm regards to all

## titanium wire had been ordered and will take about 10 - 12 days to reach . ( 28g & 28g )
have started reading on how to set it up .. hope its not as fragile as nickel tho which is a pita to build ...