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TheBloke

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Great news, @sahilm , glad you got it and like it!

That is what I find with the clones as well. The flavour is OK, I can enjoy the juice. But it is not amazing.

Titanium is quite soft, so it can sometimes break in through-post atomizers. On the Squape and other under-screw atomizers, it will be fine. I use 26G and 24G, and I don't have any problems at all with under-screw atomizers. And through-post is only a problem in certain atomizers, especially those with hollow posts, but there can be fixes for those (eg filling the empty middle of the post.)
 
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cindycated

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They also listed a ceramic W deck. The new insulator and ceramic deck just might tempt me enough to give the Squape another try.
Ugh, I wish they hadn't used silicone for the insulators. :( Something rigid (like teflon or POM, or even nylon) would've been better.
 
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hobbes4

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Ceramic deck can provide more flavor (think older GG stuff, Diver, Sophia, Eviva-T, etc.) but i think the biggest advantage would be that it is non-conductive. The coating on the clone decks are non-conductive as well but there have been a few reports of it flaking off. I don't want to scare anyone away from the clone decks, many people have been using them successfully, but imo i just don't trust whatever coating is on there. That coating and the resistance issues have kept me away from the Squape clones...even though i really want to like the Squape RS.

Even on the authentic, i just don't think the coating is even necessary. Take a look at the GEM by MarkBugs, very similar style deck and no coating needed. I guess i just feel sometimes less is more.
 

TheBloke

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I can certainly agree that non-conductive hasn't changed my life. When I first heard of Squape, I thought non-conductive sounded amazing - because I get shorting often. Then I realised that the times I get shorting are 99% against narrow chimneys, like on the Aqua v2/SE. Almost never on single, open deck atomizers like this.

Now i've got two Squapes, I can't say the conductive is helping me all that much. Maybe a tiny bit, occasionally - the other day I remember having to adjust a coil on another atomizer because it was going to brush the deck. But I've never found a time where I kept getting shorting problems on these style decks.

Now, if a tank with a deck style like the Aqua v2/SE came out with a non-conductive chimney, then that would be a revelation. I would be all over that. I really wish Footoon would do it in a future RTA.
 

TheBloke

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And that's interesting re flavour. I don't have any of the tanks you mention. I recently bought one GG tank, the new Tilemahos v2, but that doesn't use ceramic.

In what ways do you think it enhances flavour? I mean, how can it, especially as it's on the deck? How does that change the vapour production?

Actually I just ordered my second Rose v2, the Hotcig v2-s, which I hope will be in effect my first as I never got on with the first one I got (unknown brand of Rose v2) and have given it up for spare parts. Anyway the Rose uses a ceramic cup.
 

TheBloke

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OK thanks. I'm definitely going to try the ceramic W deck. I want to order some of those insulators so I'll get it at the same time.

The Squape could certainly do with a boost to flavour, however small.

So if the flavour boost comes from heat retention, that would suggest the coil should be as near to the ceramic deck as possible?

Which reminds me of another thing I've never quite understand about flavour: why it is conventional wisdom that the closer the coil to the airflow hole, the better for flavour? I quite don't follow that. Either way the air has travelled a much longer distance from the outside through the air channels, why does it matter if it then goes 5mm further before it hits the coil?

Or does it ensure that all the incoming air has gone through the coil, rather than some of it being able to go around the coil?

But then again, if the coil is further from the incoming airhole it's also closer to the outgoing air tube (that leads to the drip tip and your mouth) - and in fact if it's right up against that outgoing tube, then it ensures that all air has to go through the coil before it gets to the drip tip? Well, I suppose being right next to the incoming does the same thing. Which suggests to me that that either would be the same for flavour: either right next to the incoming air hole (as per conventional wisdom), or right up against the outgoing; as long as it's in position such that 100% of fresh air goes through the coil before reaching your mouth?

The reason I care, besides curiosity, is that sometimes it's more convenient for coiling to have the coil high than low - for example on my new Ataman 2, the gap between the posts is not wide enough to accommodate my usual 26G 3.25mm ID coil, I have to elevate it just above them to get it to fit. I often have the same problem on my Taifun GT2s as well, the screw heads are too wide and I'd prefer to elevate above them.

That's a bit unrelated to the decks we were talking about, but while we're talking about flavour improvements anyway: if anyone knows then that's something that I've been curious about for a while :)
 

hobbes4

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When you get the Rose, you can test it for yourself since it's designed to be used with or without the ceramic cup. All of the ceramic cup attys i've come across are designed so that the coil sits inside the cup so i guess that's as close to the deck/air stream as you can get. Of course there are a lot of things that effect flavor but if we're talking same device, same build, same power level, with or without ceramic, the with ceramic seems to provide slightly more flavor. At least that's my experience with the Rose and Eviva-T.

I too have found i generally get better flavor when the coil is very close to the air hole (1-2mm away). I'm not sure why this is but i would guess it has to do with the force of the air stream at different distances to the coil. I didn't read that anywhere i'm literally just guessing here. Maybe someone with knowledge of aerodynamics can explain this.

On my Taifun i push the coil way down to just above the air stem. I don't like the long leads this creates to the post but it just works better for me.

I have the Tile V2 too. I really like it but i'm not impressed with the flavor. I have a box of different size 316ss piercing needles from Amazon. I'm going to cut one and try to not only reduce the center air hole but also raise it up a bit so the coil is not so far away. I noticed on the new "flavor chasers" edition from ESG that the air hole is smaller and the wick channels are larger and deeper allowing the coil to be closer to the air hole.

I'm curious to hear about your findings after you try the ceramic w deck on the Squape RS.
 
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TheBloke

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OK thanks. I will try the Rose with and without cup - the few times I used it before I always had the cup in. But I was using crappy juice, and having all sorts of problems with the build, so it wasn't a good test. I'm hoping the Rose v2-s will be up to Hotcig's normal standards and be a near perfect clone, so I can see how it as it should be.

I think it arrives tomorrow actually.

Re GG: Yes, they just released the Tilemahos v2plus with the reduced airflow. And did so literally four days after I received my v2! So I was a bit miffed about that. It was my fault of course, I rushed in and didn't read the last few pages of the thread where it had been mentioned as coming - doubly stupid as I'd waited several days for the shop to re-open, so I had plenty of time to read more about it. Anyway, now I've so recently spent €90 on it I don't feel like spending half that again to upgrade my existing one to the flavour chaser edition.

Re flavour, so far it's been OK but not exceptional. It's hard to tell as I've only had two juices in it, both fairly new and neither of which I've yet tried in my "flavour benchmarker" (Aqua v2 or SE).

One thing that i think might impact flavour in the Tile is that that the juice control raises the roof of the chimney away from the coil. I'm always reading that a small chamber is optimal for flavour, which does make sense. On the tile, and a few other tanks I guess, that's affected by opening JC. As a result I try to have it open as little as possible, but I expect there's still going to be quite a big gap between coil and chimney roof.

I suppose I could try raising that coil up a lot. And good idea about the piercing needles, I will have to give that a try.

I do like the Tile overall, it's very usable and has the accessible deck/top fill combo that I now try to get whenever possible. But I suppose it didn't blow me away. And the rotatable deck which looked really cool hasn't turned out to be a revelation to my coiling - rather like the non-conductive decks of the Squapes didn't, either. But maybe it'll come in handy sometime.

It's a clearly a carefully thought out, nicely designed tank, and for €90 I think it's good value. Though I still think they absolutely must include spares with it, even if that means raising the price a couple of euros. Fortunately I was forewarned and did get a spare o-ring set, but they were out of stock of spare screws.

Incidentally in terms of reduced air hole size and flavour, I noticed that my new Titanium Ataman 2 has one of the smallest coil air holes I've seen. The draw is just open enough for me, but will likely be too closed for many people. I suppose that's done for the same reason that GG are now reducing their air hole. And that was also a tank in which I had to elevate the coil above the screws, so it's now right next to the air tube and even tighter as a result. All that said, the flavour is mixed - definitely hints of yumminess but not super strong. But I can't assume anything about it yet because I christened the tank with new juice, so I don't know for sure how strong the juice actually is.

I'll certainly let you all know if I can tell any difference with the ceramic deck on the Squape! I suppose I'll replace my broken Ivogo bell cap as well as it's only $2.80.
 

TheBloke

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Regarding the B deck: when you guys use it, do you make sure that all four of the little holes in the deck are immediately blocked by wick? Or do you have the wick near, but not covering the holes?

I've had the B deck in my Ivogo the past few days, with a 50/50 juice. I've repeatedly notice some moisture around the airholes. It's not what I'd normally call leaking - I can't see it dripping or pouring out. In fact I never seem to see it actually happen. Just when I come back to the tank after it sitting for a while, there's always a little juice around the base and on top of the mod.

It's not on a mod right now, and has been sitting a day or so. I went to it and saw the usual moisture around the base, and then blew down the drip tip and got a couple of drops come out the air hole.

I didn't notice any leaking with the W deck on the Ivogo, nor have I had any with W on the SXK. So I'm assuming it's the B deck specifically.

Should I make sure those holes are blocked unless I'm using very high % VG?
 

Marmaduke

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Well, I had a problem with leaking when using the bdeck first. You have to make sure that nothing of the cotton is touching the airhole. That also refers to the cotton in the wick. It has to be completely free. Liquidholes are blocked from the inside. Cotton is in s-form. After that, my Ivogo is totally dry.
 
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archimede

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My biggest annoyance with the Squape is filling. It's impossible to use the metal tanks with 70+% VG, and with 60% it only just works. I can't fill it full, only about half full. 50% is OK. And the bell cap on the Ivogo has no problem, so I'm using that now on my Ivogo - even though it looks nasty!

I have the same problem because of thick juice and no problem with the bell tank. I need to learn if the same filling problem occurs with Ivogo base and SXK aluminium tanks. Have you tried this?
 
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