New to modding--first design

[westy78]

Hi guys--

I've never built a mod before (or anything electronic other than a crystal radio kit maybe) but I'm thinking of jumping in. This is my first design. The Milo instructions made me think I can probably do this. I'd love to get your opinions.

• DNA20D
• dna charger
• 18650 (haven't decided yet on IMR vs protected Li-Ion)
• fuse design...still undecided, but I'd like to include one as another layer of protection
• cherry/walnut/aluminum box, 3.5"x1.75"x1". Might ditch the walnut caps and go with aluminum for a cleaner look.

Here are some images I whipped up using SketchUp. I put in the spirit box for scale.



It's not a super stealthy micro-size, but it's just a bit narrower and slimmer than the cig box. Should be pretty pocketable.



I toyed with a top button (it would be to the right of the 510 connector) but decided a side button would work just fine and would be less complicated and keeps the overall package shorter by staying out of the way of the positive battery connection (see diagram below). I'm right-handed, so I'll probably mirror the design so that the three buttons are on the right side where your thumb would be. Originally I thought the fire button would work with my index finger but it turns out putting it on the thumb side is more comfortable for me.



I like the idea of rounded edges. Think of it as a tube mod that's cut in half and then stuck together side by side. I made a crude mockup by taping together two glue sticks in this shape and it feels quite good in my hand.



Here is how everything fits together. Use your imagination since all the parts aren't there yet. The case will be formed with two 3/4" holes side by side. I really need to break down and buy a drill press with a longer throw to make this more convenient! I have a feeling it's going to be challenging to stuff everything into the space, but if the DNA20 works in an 18mm tube mod I think I can make it work.


The top and bottom caps will have a tapered press fit. The bottom will of course have a generous vent hole but I'm still a little concerned with the potential of the top becoming a projectile aimed at my face. I could epoxy it in place after all the guts are in place, but I wouldn't ever be able to repair anything inside. Maybe it's not an issue with the vent.

What do you think? Suggestions for improvement or other things I should consider?

 

[westy78]

Here it is with aluminum caps and reversed for right-hand use. I think I like it better this way...

 

[johnlacie]

I've been thinking of a similar design for a year now and I think yours is better. Since I don't have all the necessary tools, I've been just wishing that someone else can make a gripper that I can copy for my own use. Just my opinion, if you can make the aluminum end caps work, go for it.

 

[asdaq]

Might I suggest brass instead of aluminum? The contrast with wood looks nicer and aluminum is more fitting with black. As for the larger drill press you don't really need it a you can move the table up and down, but longer shanked forstner bits would be a blessing. I did quite a few of these but had to adjust the table and the chuck which was a combined pain. Also you have the screen in the middle but with two holes it would seem to make more sense to have the screen offset inn one of these holes. To be fair the top cap could be fixed inn place as you really only need to open one end to change a battery. .... You could fit all that and get a charger inn there as well, so you wouldn't need too open it nearly as much.

 

[Commie]

Matter of taste, but I'd also suggest recessing the 510 connection for the size of your favorite tank/clearo/etc. As an idea, I'm not sure if it would work for what you're planning, but I really liked it in my numerous cheap looking altoids mods

 

[asdaq]

I wasn't going to go as far as saying 'recessing the tank', but one could a fair amount.

 

[Commie]

Here's my (much cheaper) attempts at that. It worked for my needs -- hiding the relatively fragile tank from the kicking of my children. After they accidentally broke a few tanks in my pocket, I started recessing them:


Incidentally, even with DNA20, the size of the box you're fitting all those goodies in is limited by the length of your battery. Which generally should still leave you with some room if you did choose to recess the tank.

 

[AgentSmith]

@ OP.. that'll be a really sweet build. Have fun with it.

@ Commie.. I like the way you encased the circuit in epoxie on that VV mod.. that's slick.

 

[Commie]

@ OP.. that'll be a really sweet build. Have fun with it.

@ Commie.. I like the way you encased the circuit in epoxie on that VV mod.. that's slick.

Thank you, but that's not slick That's the reason something fried inside there after about a month, and there was no way for me to repair it. Looks nice, but functionally that was very bad.

 

[westy78]

I did consider recessing the tank at one point...



...but decided against it mostly because it limits the tank diameter. I'd like to try some RBAs in the future, and although a Vivi Nova would be a nice fit, I'd have to be careful not to screw it in too tight or I might just unscrew the top cap or wose yet the tank tube when trying to remove the whole tank. I may well do this on a future build. It would be really slick with a flat top tank that's flush with the top of the case--only a drip tip sticking out.

asdaq--Brass would look good...but I think I'll stick with aluminum only because I think I'll have a better chance of working it to my satisfaction. It's nice and soft. I don't know whether brass can be cut or sanded as easily. You're right about the screen position. When I'm building I will scoot it over as close as I can to the edge of the flat face.

johnlacie--if this works out I will post a pictorial of the build and maybe some plans. There may be some ways to simplify it using only the kind of hand tools people could pick up at the e-cig dept of Home Depot. I'll contemplate that as I build. It would be cool if somebody sold pre-made cases or kits that could be completed easily (with the builder self-sourcing the innards and switches to his liking). I don't know whether that exists or not.

 

[asdaq]

Westy, you are right about having a 510 threading and recessed and having it come apart, this is quite real. You would be surprised how easy brass is to work though, and I thought the same as you when I started modding. Alu is sticky and cakes, brass is just sticky, but both are rather soft. I use mostly hand tools to work brass. You could practice a bit with a junked brass screw to see how it works.

 

[AgentSmith]

Westy, you are right about having a 510 threading and recessed and having it come apart, this is quite real. You would be surprised how easy brass is to work though, and I thought the same as you when I started modding. Alu is sticky and cakes, brass is just sticky, but both are rather soft. I use mostly hand tools to work brass. You could practice a bit with a junked brass screw to see how it works.

+1

@Commie.. well, it looks slick. But yeah not good if you need to repair the circuit I suppose.

 

[westy78]

A drawing I posted in another thread for my design...



...and some pics of a rough prototype below...

I was considering all three buttons on the front face (the dots above and below the DNA20 display screen), but after holding it, I think I want to mount the buttons in the side indentations as originally planned. The fire button seems to be most comfortable with my index finger. The micro USB charger--if I can figure out a simple way to mount it--will be below the display, as in the renderings in previous posts and the sketch above.

Current size is 3 1/2"x1 7/8"x1". Fits nicely in my pocket. That's an iPhone 4s for comparison in the last photo.

Your critique is welcomed!

 

[Commie]

Looks awesome! What type of wood is that? Can't wait to see it finished

 

[AgentSmith]

It's lookin' really good.

 

[westy78]

Thanks!

What type of wood is that?

Hahaha... It's a 2x4 scrap, just used it to see if the size/shape felt good. The real deal will be cherry.

 

[Commie]

Thanks!



Hahaha... It's a 2x4 scrap, just used it to see if the size/shape felt good. The real deal will be cherry.

View attachment 186350

Ah, cool. It looked like pine, but I figured to be polite before warning you about it

 

[exnihilo]

Ah, cool. It looked like pine, but I figured to be polite before warning you about it

I know this is slightly off-topic, but why not pine? Are there other woods that I should be weary of?

And, on-topic, awesome! I'm about to start my own wood mod. Thanks for the motivation!

cg

 

[Commie]

I know this is slightly off-topic, but why not pine? Are there other woods that I should be weary of?

And, on-topic, awesome! I'm about to start my own wood mod. Thanks for the motivation!

cg

Pine is the cheapest wood for a reason. It's very soft, and (subjectively) not very pretty looking. You can usually leave marks and scratches on it just with a finger nail.

 

[westy78]

Cork would work but a rubber stopper or bung might be more durable.

Keeping it as two separate bores with the central wall would also give you a lot more strength. 1/8" might be a bit thin for something that will be handled as often as a mod.

Have you considered epoxying in a thin walled metal tube to line each chamber?

Yeah, 1/8" is pretty thin, but in proportion to the overall size it's not fragile. I'm interested in seeing how compactly a wood mod can be made. I bored out of a couple of prototypes in cherry last night and they are surprisingly strong. With the dividing wall in place, there is no deflection in the outer walls when I squeeze as hard as I can in any direction. The shape gives it more rigidity than one might imagine. I still need to round off the corners, and this may affect it somewhat. I have to travel the next few days so maybe I'll make some progress next weekend.

Rubber is a good idea too...thanks!



I'm not used to woodworking on this tiny scale!

EDIT: it's all made of one piece (subtractively); i.e., the center wall is not a separate piece.