NEW YIHI SX MINI ML CLASS!
- Thread starter smokyribs
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Perhaps this is a pipe dream, but I'm really hoping the December chip is Yihi's take on the Ijoy Asolo kanthal burn protection. Can you imagine, no dry hits on kanthal, no having to fiddle with temperature, and all the day-to-day usability of a Yihi chip? Just thinking about it gives me a tingle in my pants...
Certainly not replacing my new precious any time soonWhat offset do you run for SS?
I don't know a darn thing about offsets! just using a Crown uwell with .5 dual SS coil settings to suit me in Ti Mode Standard 30J 420F suits me fine.
Good for you! hope it lives up to your expectations.
I will stick to my reliable SXMini M I am very happy with it.
I wonder... is it in pursue of higher wattage that dual 18650 gets configured serially as opposed to in parallel? I would much prefer increased autonomy and do away with all the hassle of managing serially connected batteries...
Yes, I believe they do that for higher wattages. If they tried to do a parallel 100w+ board they would probably have to do some janky pwm method like the iStick 100W.
Battery life is about the same either way, the Watt-hours are the same at least. Only thing is charging batteries in a mod in series requires a balance board.
Yes, serial gives double the voltage to the mod and therefore allows a much higher output voltage.
That said, most serial mods still use PWM
Usually because they're trying to get more than 130W out of 2 x 18650. Though the SXM was still all PWM when it was max 120W (but maybe they knew they planned to increase it to max 150 later)
Yes, serial gives double the voltage to the mod and therefore allows a much higher output voltage.
That said, most serial mods still use PWM
I know you've been dying to use your new scope I'd be interested in seeing a PWM capture of the SXM at 120W or 150W. I've looked at a lot of signals from the SXM and never seen a PWM signal but I don't have a dual battery so can only go to 75W in my testing. Related to that Power is typically calculated using Vrms not by the type of signal whether it be PWM, Square wave etc..
One reason for going with Series configured batteries is the increased voltage as you stated, this allows for similar Power output while lowering the current draw (P=I * V). So with the higher available voltage with series configured devices it enables manufactures to completely remove the Boost circuitry in some cases which in turn is generally less expensive to manufacture. I believe one example of this is the DNA 200, with 3 series batteries or 11.1V they are able to accomplish 200W but if they reduce that to 2 series at 7.4V they are limited to 133W so it appears they've completely eliminated the Boost circutry but are able to accomplish the 200W point if 3 or more cells are configured in series.
Bear in mind this is in no real sense TC - or at least, not at the temperatures we normally associate with TC. It will be heating the coil to hundreds of °C, well above the burning of cotton.
I'm doing SS 304 tests now in my thread: TC beyond Ni200: Nickel Purity, Dicodes; Ti, SS, Resistherm NiFe30; Coefficient of Resistance
The consensus so far is that any accurate Titanium mode will only enable an SS 304 coil to be limited to 300°C and higher (setting 100°C on the mod will limit to 300°C)
The only hope for real TC of SS on a Titanium mode is where the mod underheats the coil, as for example does the Joyetech EVic-VT: which I have just temperature tested and confirmed that 100°C on the EVic results in a real coil temperature of between 230 and 240°C (446 - 464°F). It might be possible to get the coil slightly lower by seting the Evic in °F mode, where the minimum is 200°F which is 93°C.
I don't yet know how accurate the Yihi Titanium mode is. There is some suggestion that it also underheats, in which case it should be able to achieve a coil temperature below 300°C, and perhaps nearer to the 230-240°C max that one would want to prevent burnt cotton.
Even if 300°C is the minimum, this should still prevent most dry hits - it's only if you completely drain your tank and dry your wick that it will start to burn.
I will be testing the Yihi SXM very soon.
But the OP, not using offsets at all, is basically more or less a VW vape. The extent to which he's limiting temp will be 400°C+, far above any normal definition of TC. Perhaps it does serve to reduce the amount of vapour a little before he gets a burnt hit, but it's not TC as I understand the term. He could do much better by lowering the temp to the minimum.
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Ah, well maybe I was wrong - but I thought the SXM was PWM in all modes? I thought Busardo showed that when he first did his review. And I've definitely heard people talking about the 'rattlesnake' in single battery mod.
I don't have the dual battery tube for the SXM and had no intention of buying it because it looks so ridiculous
I certainly will do a scope scan of it in single battery mode and see what I see.
I didn't know that about boost, that's interesting thanks.
Naw, that's just in Joules mode, and its not exactly PWM persay.Ah, well maybe I was wrong - but I thought the SXM was PWM in all modes? I thought Busardo showed that when he first did his review. And I've definitely heard people talking about the 'rattlesnake' in single battery mod.
I don't have the dual battery tube for the SXM and had no intention of buying it because it looks so ridiculous
I certainly will do a scope scan of it in single battery mode and see what I see.
I didn't know that about boost, that's interesting thanks.
Ah, well maybe I was wrong - but I thought the SXM was PWM in all modes? I thought Busardo showed that when he first did his review. And I've definitely heard people talking about the 'rattlesnake' in single battery mod.
I don't have the dual battery tube for the SXM and had no intention of buying it because it looks so ridiculous
I certainly will do a scope scan of it in single battery mode and see what I see.
I didn't know that about boost, that's interesting thanks.
They use PFM to control the power "Temp Limit" when in TL mode but not in Power mode it's flat DC at least up to the 60W I've seen. That's why I'd like to see a scope of it at 120W or 150W as I don't have the dual battery device to do it myself and haven't seen anyone else that's scoped it with dual battery configuration.
OK fair enough. The tube is only £12 but I'm really not sure I can bring myself to buy it
So you do have an oscilloscope? I might need to pick your brains at some point if that's OK
PWM is a definition of a signal. It's not inherent to hear or feel PWM as some think. What you hear or feel is associated on the frequency of the modulation with PWM. Generally the slower the modulation the more apparent it is to humans. When the modulation is fast enough we don't notice it as it seems to us as a constant.
If you want to see what I'm talking about go out to this online tone generator Online Tone Generator - Free, Simple and Easy to Use.
First select Square Wave
Then Enter 10Hz and play it
You can easily hear the modulation clicking at this low frequency
Now change the value to 100Hz and play it.
At this higher frequency we no longer can hear the modulation and it sounds like a constant tone. Nothing as far as the type of signal changed it's still a square wave just the frequency is much higher.
But I haven't seen the signal of the Istick 100W so I have no idea what frequency it operates at. If it's PWM it just may be fast enough for you to not notice it.
Yep, if its using pwm, its high frequency. At least at 60W I can't detect it.
OK fair enough. The tube is only £12 but I'm really not sure I can bring myself to buy it
So you do have an oscilloscope? I might need to pick your brains at some point if that's OK
Yea I didn't want to buy one either. I did find some of my Stingray X tubes fit the threading on the SXmini M but was never able to get the right length tube w/cap to fit.
I have an #EL_Cheapo USB PC scope that I play with from time to time. Not that great but it's served it's purpose well for me so far for basic use. Would like to get a better one but I cant really justify the expense for no more than I'd use it.
The duel battery stick actually isn't that bad. I use it daily. It looks much better in person.Ah, well maybe I was wrong - but I thought the SXM was PWM in all modes? I thought Busardo showed that when he first did his review. And I've definitely heard people talking about the 'rattlesnake' in single battery mod.
I don't have the dual battery tube for the SXM and had no intention of buying it because it looks so ridiculous
I certainly will do a scope scan of it in single battery mode and see what I see.
I didn't know that about boost, that's interesting thanks.
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