New ZAP Users

[HolmanGT]

I'm new to the Zap and rebuildables as a whole, although I've been vaping for a couple of years, but I'm confused. Are you using the the XC-116 by itself, with the coil wrapped around it? Or using it as a core inside the SS? I have 3 feet of the XC, but mo SS. I'm not thrilled with the flavor of just ceramic. Thanks for your help in advance.

dvs_taz,

OK - the simple part first. I started with a 3" sample I purchased from RBA which turns out to be a little more than enough to make two complete wicks. When it work so well I order a 3' section from them which should keep me in business for a very long time because the stuff just holds up so well.

Now for the details of what I did:
1. I had been using the solid ceramic wick and didn't care for it and mostly because of the delay when firing the unit for the ceramic to heat up. I would get several not dry but just empty hits.
2. Then I decided to try cotton as others suggested. I did this my twisting the solid ceramic wick back and forth working it up and out of the coil and ZAP base. (the success here will depend on how tight your coil is on he solid ceramic.) it the coil will not allow you to pull out the solid ceramic you may have to wind a coil and put it in the ZAP with no core. In my case it came out and left the coil intact (2.4 Ohms). I then rolled some cotton from a cotton ball to a couple of inches long and a smidge under 3mm or 1/8 inch. Then kind of screwed it into the coil and continued until the cotton wick reached the bottom of the tank and cut off the excess cotton about a 1/4" above the coil. The cotton worked well but I wanted something that would last longer. By the way it is very easy to replace the cotton at will by just pulling straight up. When it is wet with juice it slides right out.
3. Then I received the XC-116 sample opened the ZAP cap pulled the cotton out and screwed in the 116 material like it was a screw taking advantage of the "thread" effect of the coil. The sample piece was then cut about 1/4" above the coil and good to go. So simple answer is I am using the 116 all by itself. I would suggest if you have to, to wind a coil on an 1/8" (3mm) form. Install the coil and from there install the coil and screw the 116 material down into the coil and tank and then trim off the excess. If you wind the coil on the XC-116 you stand a chance of strangling the wick. After I put the 116 in I took my blunt filler needle and carefully pushed it down the center of the 116 material and wobbled it a little to make sure the center hole of the material was open and that the outer surface of the 116 was flush up against the coil.

Doing it my way leaves the hollow center of the XC-116 open and it kinds of works like a Coffee Pot percolator. So When using the ZAP don't tip it up above level or you may get a little too much juice flowing down the center of the wick.

This morning I had been using my Tesla with a Kanger Pro Tank II. When I saw your post I went and got my ProVari with the ZAP and XC-116 wick. The unit had been sitting in a vertical position from sometime last night until now but fired right up with no fooling around to get it to start wicking it just started working from the get-go. The other thing I have noticed about the XC-116 is it doesn't seem to gung up like regular flexible ceramic wick material. By the way I have the ZAP loaded with HHV "Legend" 50/50 PG/VG which is a NET and NETS are notorious for gunging up wicks not to mention juices with a high ratio of VG but doesn't seem to be a problem for the XC-116.

Anyway I am sure this is more than you wanted to know but if you still have questions... "Fire when ready Gridley"

 

[dvs_taz]

Thanks so much HolmanGT

 

[HolmanGT]

dvs_taz,

Your welcome.

 

[dvs_taz]

So here is what I did. I slid my XC over the blunt needle used to fill and that came with atty. Turns out it is just about the perfect length, so you can use it to measure and to build coil on. I used some Kanthal ready wire that I got from Stormy's, that was 2.2 ohms. Dark gear had made that suggestion to me in another post. After the coil was built it tested at 1.9 on my Provari. Tons of vapor and the taste is so much better. Thanks for your help, it made my first official build a snap.

 

[HolmanGT]

So here is what I did. I slid my XC over the blunt needle used to fill and that came with atty. Turns out it is just about the perfect length, so you can use it to measure and to build coil on. I used some Kanthal ready wire that I got from Stormy's, that was 2.2 ohms. Dark gear had made that suggestion to me in another post. After the coil was built it tested at 1.9 on my Provari. Tons of vapor and the taste is so much better. Thanks for your help, it made my first official build a snap.

dvs_taz,

I am really happy to hear it went well.

But great minds... After I posted the convoluted instruction it dawned on me if you stuck the blunt into the XC-116 you could wind the coil right on the blunt and not have to worry about choking off the wick - Duh!

I too have purchased some of the Kanthal ready wire from Stormy. I haven't received them yet but I was starting to get real tired of all the hassle trying to get close to the desired resistance. That is the main reason I have been reusing the existing coil which by the way I built with ribbon Kanthal that I want to get rid of. I don't think the ribbon is what you want using it the way we are but that is another story for another day.

Just out of curiosity do you get a quick start when you hit the button? For me the delay I was getting with the solid ceramic was driving me crazy but the XC-116 seems to have eliminated that little quirk.

 

[dvs_taz]

For me, it seemed like I had to take two or three hits to get everything warmed up to where I could get consistent vapes. My theory why the XC works well is that it is woven and allows more air flow. You need oxygen for combustion and because there more airflow, the coils heat quicker. The same would be true about cotton, but because you're not using cotton that is consistent in its thickness because we in most cases won't roll and end up with the same thickness and density throughout like a machine does,whereas XC does.

 

[dvs_taz]

Well I've been huffing and puffing now for the last few hours and not a dry hit to be found. Really happy with my first attempt.

 

[HolmanGT]

Well I've been huffing and puffing now for the last few hours and not a dry hit to be found. Really happy with my first attempt.

dvs_taz,

I finally got my Kanthal ready wire from Stormy's.

I built a new setup XC-116 and the pre-made wire on my blunt filler syringe like you suggested.

The whole build took about five minutes from start to first puff - Eureka !!!

By the way the old XC-116 wick that I removed still looks almost new. The 116 doesn't seem to crud up like regular woven ceramic or cotton so I will reuse it for another build.

Now the only problem I have is that the ZAP is putting out so much very fine vapor that I find myself doing straight lung hits which if you are not careful @24 mg of nicotine will give you one heck of a buzz. The other day I was kind of chain vaping watching a movie (RED 2) and didn't realize how much I was straight hitting until I started getting hot flashes and the sweats - Ugh!

It only happens with my new ZAP configuration I don't have any problems with my Pro Tank IIs. The Pro Tank does put out a lot of vapor but it doesn't seem to be quit as much nor as fine. While the Pro Tank Draw is pretty open it doesn't lend itself to straight lung hits like the ZAP does.

So until I learn some self-control with the new ZAP configuration I may have to cut down on the nicotine level. Actually I think I remember Mr. Zen saying something about that in his video (on the Pro Vape site) "you might need to reduce your nic level". Unless you like staggering around the house with male menopause symptoms (hot flashes and the sweats).

PS - Even using NETs I'll bet I can get a couple of months out of one XC-116 wick, it just doesn't get gunked up. Oh - and I am using 2.4 ohm pre-made wires and mine measured out at 2.6 ohms and I am running at 4.0 volts using 24 mg 50/50 Pg/Vg... lots of vapor.

 

[dvs_taz]

I learned the slow down trick because I completely filled up my car (mazda3 hatchback) with a vapor fog. I opened up the door and roils of vapor followed me out of the car. I'm pretty sure most folks thought I was smoking something else


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[HolmanGT]

I learned the slow down trick because I completely filled up my car (mazda3 hatchback) with a vapor fog. I opened up the door and roils of vapor followed me out of the car. I'm pretty sure most folks thought I was smoking something else


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

dvs_taz,

The second coming of Cheech And Chong.

I wouldn't dare use mine in the car Utah police are a little touchy about anything that looks like a real Cheech and Chong act going down the road.

 

[dvs_taz]

Well, I live in Washington state, so there you go


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[HolmanGT]

Well, I live in Washington state, so there you go


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I noticed you were in WA I lived in Portland, OR but did a lot of Saw Mill work in WA. for a whole bunch of years until I decided I didn't need anymore RAIN. Oops... the point I was going to make is I forgot that VW busses with interior zero visibility fog is legal there now.

 

[dvs_taz]

I lived almost my whole life here. Once you get a protective layer of moss down, you don't mind the rain so much
So I've had my XC-116 and ready wire coil going for two weeks now, no cleaning, looks like it did on day 1, still tastes great. I was a little worried that it would be above my skill level, or too finicky, but I've found quite the opposite.

 

[HolmanGT]

I lived almost my whole life here. Once you get a protective layer of moss down, you don't mind the rain so much
So I've had my XC-116 and ready wire coil going for two weeks now, no cleaning, looks like it did on day 1, still tastes great. I was a little worried that it would be above my skill level, or too finicky, but I've found quite the opposite.

I grew up in southern CA so when I got to OR I was amazed. I didn't think it rained like that anywhere except in the middle of the Amazon jungle.

My experience with the 116 and pre-made wires has been the same. Every time I take the top off to refill I expect to see all the black gunk I had become used to. But so far it (now this is going to sound strange) seem to be .... self cleaning.

I did see a Video (I think on the XC-116 site) and the guy dips the wick in USED motor oil, really black and gunky then takes a torch to it and within about a minute it was perfectly snow white again - "Go Figure".

You know anyone that is reading the mail on us here on ECF must think we have had one too many beers or are just plain making this stuff up.